Heya, This mailing list is really for
critiquing full character animation shots, rather than cutout
flash.
But seeing as lots of kind people have helped me
out along the way, I've taken the time to type up some of my notes, collected
from advice given by various people over the years, to help you out.
To some extent this is personal opinion and others will have different ways of
working so don't take it as gospel.
First of all style: One of the best pieces of
advice I ever got was to move away from cutout animation and try drawing.
Cutout animation is only good really for making limited animation fast -
its a real struggle to make decent full character animation in cutout. In
cutout animation poses typically end up being very weak as you never really have
to think about posing, and the restriction of the media prevents you from
working with proper three dimensional poses. Composition is also very flat
and dull. Limited animation is fine for a certain type of work,
but you'll never get noticed for character animation, and the work will rely
heavily on dialogue (as for example Hana Barbera cartoons do) or on a fast paced
story line (for example the Simpsons), and unless these are really great, you'll
have people turning off very quickly. Try sitting through the whole of the
Beatles film, the Yellow Submarine and you'll see what I mean about limited
animation failing to hold attention.
Drawing is so important, not necessarily for image
making, but as proof that you can observe correctly. People often say they
can't draw, but really the problem is that they can't observe, and if you can't
observe, then you stand no chance at all of being able to critique your own work
and will constantly be relying on others for advice. If you can hold a
pencil and draw a straight line, a circle and a square, and you are capable of
tracing, then there is no problem with your drawing facility, but rather with
your observations. The word animation literally means breathing life into
something, and so, no matter how far away from realism your style might be,
its still essential to reference back to real life. Draw lots of poses
from life to practice (search http://www.posemaniacs.com/ if you can't find anywhere to go to lifedrawing). Also
drawing from video or photographs is fine - and is a great way to check how
accurate your drawing was (crit everything yourself first). Pick a scene
of your favourite film and break it down into key drawings as if you were
rewriting the storyboard. Where I'm at college now, the RCA, we literally
have more drawing classes scheduled than anything else at all, and they're
compulsary for pretty much every subject taught here. Draw from music to
help capture a mood, literally draw everything you want to capture in your
animations as it will be a way to proving to yourself that you've processed
and understood what you want to capture. Also physically get into the
poses that will be in your animation - feel where the weight is, what aches when
you hold the pose for too long, if you're off balance, which way will you
fall? Is the pose natural, would moving a limb make it more natural.
How does the pose make you feel - commanding? subservient? confident?
vulnerable? open? etc.
Act out the scene a few times trying different
things, then record it when you're confident you know the scene so well you can
act it as if it was real (ie without any trace of your 'acting' showing
through). The director Bresson ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Bresson ) used to get actors to repeat scenes hundreds of times until he
felt they weren't showing any acting - he referred to his actors simply as
'models' who had to follow instructions rather than invent on the spot every
time. You should know the action inside out before you even begin to
animate.
Working from the video draw thumbnails of every
single frame. (see rainplace for more info http://rainplace.net/?p=383 ). These can be very rough to start with, but by drawing
every single frame, not just the keys, you start to learn how long each action
needs to be in terms of frames, and also you note the flow from one key to the
next (Shamus Culhane used to use this method as well http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shamus_Culhane working frame by frame drawing very fast so as not to loose track
of the flow). If you can't imagine the movement or draw it out from memory
without looking back to notes, it will really slow down your animation. I
find that making a neat summary of what I've learned really helps afterwards -
here are some examples from my own notes.
Once I've finished going through stop frame, I'll
play the reference back on loop at real time speed and try to tap the
rhythm of the keys (footsteps so on) as if I was learning the beat of a
song. If its lipsync, rather than working with a dope sheet with phonemes,
I personally prefer to speak the dialogue with my finger on my top lip and my
thumb on my bottom lip, feeling when my mouth is most open and closed (the most
important part visually), and then on a second pass, where it is widest or
narrowest.
Once I've internalised my reference and planned out
my keys either as thumbs, or ideally as full size sketches (I tend to block in
2d, even though I'm animating in 3D as it gives me a much better grasp of how
the poses work and really helps to record it in my memory, which I don't think I
get in the same way if I do my blocking in 3D), then I start to animate.
Even if you hate disney style animation, you can't ignore the 12 principles of
animation which are present pretty much in any movement. Disney chose
certain aspects to exaggerate (notably squash and stretch and appeal), and
certain aspects to ignore (I always feel that their staging is particularly dull
and straightforward), but if you pay a farily even amount of attention to all of
them, you'll be heading for life like animation. The summary on wikipedia
is really no replacement for the full version in the illusion
of life which is definitely worth a read . You should really know these principles off by heart and be
applying them all at once without having to think about them. Its not good
enough just to be able to list them, but actually do all of them. Its easy
to find examples of them all in animation, and the disney book has great
illustrations which go through each principle, showing it visually - copying
some of the drawing sequences from that book made a big difference to
me.
I wouldn't start to animate a scene before you know
whats going to happen in it, and have planned it out, at least in terms of major
poses and keys, in thumbnails. I know some people like to feel their way
through without thumbnailing first or doing a rough blocking pass, but usually I
find this costs a lot more work, and makes the edit much harder. At the
very least you need to know how one shot connects to the next, so you have to
have a sort of target pose to reach by the end of the shot. If you choose
to go straight ahead, then I'd strongly recommend using a type of pop-through
technique, where you work out timing on a separate rough pass (either with live
action stills or quick sketches), then animate straight ahead, but aim to hit
the poses on the times you planned out. Ie if you know you have to hit a
contact position on frame 9, and its a fast walk, then you're going to need to
be around the up position on frame 7... ie you work backwards from the key you
need to hit to work out how close to it you need to be on the frame you're
currently drawing. That way you get the nice flow of straight ahead, but
none of the unpredictability. A lot of stop motion guys at college now
work by shooting live action then effectively reducing it to keys and treating
it as a pop-thru pass.
Once I'm done, if I'm not happy with the result I
have a big troubleshooting checklist. There are tonnes of books out there
for learning animation methods, but noone really tells you what to do when it
doesn't work. Start with the big questions first...
CHECKLIST:
Staging - are the characters in the right places
which would naturally make sense, and which would communicate the emotional
situation as best as possible (ie are the above or below the camera line if they
are dominant or suppressed respectively). The staging can have a big
effect on the length of a shot - ie do the characters have to walk way to far
before we see any action? is it ok to cheat this? (for a great example of
cheating staging see 2mins30-2mins40 in Tarkovsky's Ivan's Childhood http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-cOMy9k-6s Ivan walks
about 500 metres in the space of half a second but the audience accepts it
because its done for emotional effect, and happens across a cut - see Edward
Dmytryk's seven rules of cutting for when its acceptable to do this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_editing#Editing_techniques).
If your staging is wrong you might have to reanimate the shot - get it right in
the thumbnail stage if you can, but obviously check it with timing.
Composition - much like staging but in 2d screen
space (whereas staging is in 3d set space). Hit the key actions on the
third guides, use leading lines in the set to focus the action to a specific
point. Are limbs cut off awkwardly by the cropping of the shot in a
distracting manner. Do the visual shapes the characters make communicate
well and integrate into the background well. Check your title safe area -
make sure nothing important happens outside it. People will be drawn
towards areas of high contrast in brightness - check the animation most
thoroughly there - also consider if the composition causes strobing problems -
movements which are too fast and in high contrast colours (for example I had a
black wing sweeping across the screen over a white background very fast, and it
just flashed/flickered due to the extremes of brightness).
Readability - can the audience tell whats going on
- show the shot to someone who hasn't seen it and isn't an animator and ask what
they just saw. Closely linked to this is silhouettes. If you're
working in an overly graphic or cartoony style which lacks clear definition of
volumes, check that the shot works in silhouette and that you can tell whats
happening from the silhouette. Be careful though that working in
silhouette doesn't cause you to choose a dull flat disney composition every
time. Use it more if you're communicating something crucial. In Sculpting
in Time, Tarkovsky argues that as a director you must leave things ambigous
and not spoon feed the audience as if they were stupid. Stories are more
interesting and exciting if the ambiguity that you create is not so much random,
but offers an alternative plot line. You should also expect a degree of
competance from your audience - there is a brilliant Werner Herzog (I *think*
its in Werner Herzog eats his shoe http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rd6rUo7Htso ) where he
talks about the problem of visual illiteracy in audiences today.
Line of action - work backwards from your finished
animation into sketched lines of action - are the lines what you were aiming
for? can you reinforce the pose better? does the line show either 1. where the
force is - if the character is static AND/OR 2. where the character is moving
to/from if its in motion AND 3. what the emotional state of the character
is? is it possible to get all three of these elements into your line of
action without compromise OR would you be better to focus just on one for this
scene. IE if the emphasis is on acting rather than locomotion then it
might be better just to use the character's line of action to show
depression/elation rather than the weight on his feet. Has the timing
given enough time for the pose to read - Eric Goldberg taks about attitude
walks in his Crash
Course book - where he adds eases around the contacts - the keys- which most
express the attitude of the walk through the pose. If the line of action
is right, check the pose - if I'm working in 3d and I have trouble with a pose
I'll draw a copy of it by hand. If I have trouble drawing it, then I know
its probably an unnatural pose - I try to draw something else then put that
in. Remember even if you're working in 3D every frame is ultimately a
drawing - the audience sees every frame for an equal amount of time - its no
good getting just the keys right.
Pacing - is essentially timing, but on the scale of
the edit - is the story moving too fast or too slow. If you're working
with a three act structure have you spent enough time on each of the setup,
the problem and the resolution? Have you given the audience time to adjust
to the shot (half a second of wasted screen time per cut). Digital editing
encouraged whats known as frame f*cking which is when the editor replays a
sequence of shots over and over, each time removing a frame at a time from one
shot until the shot is as short as possible. This is obviously used mostly
for action movies, but the disease has spead so that aversage shot lengths for
feature films are now in the region of 4-10s rather than 20-50s in the Steenbeck
editing machine days - obviouly when manually splicing film, frame f*cking was a
much more laborious process so editors tended to cut long rather than short, and
now the reverse is true.
Timing - this is where you really need to go back
to your reference to check, or start tapping out beats on the desk.
Unfortunately the timing from live action and from blocking doesn't necessarily
always translate across to animation. If the timings wron'g, then why is
it wrong, don't just start shuffling keyframes randomly, try to quantify where
your mistake was so you don't make it again. Push the timing from real
life - there are many example in live action films where timing has been
deliberately contorted for dramatic effect (in the French Connection the car
chase was shot undercranked by Owen Roizman - ie in fast motion http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_French_Connection_(film)#Car_chase ,
and throughout the Mirror, Tarkovsky dips in and out of overcranked shooting -
ie slow motion, but often barely noticeable - the best example is towards the
end of the movie when the boy is waiting alone in the dark room http://www.reverseshot.com/article/mirror ) Try
timing to music if you have no dialogue to work with - in the French Connection
all of the edits in the car chase sequence are time to beats of Santana's Black
Magic Woman.
Spacing - relates closely to timing, but has more
to do with poses. Are the poses spaced close enough together to carry the
eye from one to the next? If the spacing stays relatively uniform between
consecutive frames then you have smooth flowing action. If on the other
hand the spacing varies dramatically you probably have sharp choppy movements
which might not be what you want? Frame by frame spacing might be too
subtle to see errors (ie at the inbetween level), maybe consider the spacing
between draing or poses on twos, or between consecutive keys. Big changes
in spacing indicate a big change in momentum (either a large force OR a light
object), wheras small changes in spacing indicate a small change in momentum (a
small force OR a heavy object with a lot of momentum). A change in
momentum requires energy - where did the energy come from (someone pushing
something)? or was energy lost (something hitting into something coming to a
stop)?
Arcs - related to spacing - do the traces of the
end of the limbs sweep out smooth arcs AND are there enough frames to make the
arc noticeable? If you're moving from point A to point B over 1 frame you
can only go in a straight line - its impossible to go in an arc. If you go
in 2 frames, then you can at best go in a triangular motion. If you have
say 5 frames to get from A to B, then you have 5 small lines (or chords
technically) to join together to make an arc. If you have too many frames
and your object moves too slowly, then viewers won't notice the arc at all, but
if you go too fast there won't be an arc. you can reinforce the shape of
the arc with follow through - leaving things trailing in the arc. Check
the arcs from the camera view. Draw the shape of the arcs over your
background - do the shapes fit nicely in the composition of the background
element, or do they clash? Consider the motion paths that your characters
leave behind as parts of that composition - think of the vapour trails left in
the sky by aerial acrobatics, or the stripes on a frozen lake from figure
skaters - the motion is ultimately beautiful because of the arcs it
produces. Laban would expand motion further into three type: spoke like,
arc like and carving. if an arc isn't appropriate would a spoke or carve
fit better?
Eases & acceleration - an ease can be used to
emphasize a key - ie to spend more time around that key, or just to provide a
sense of acceleration from one key to the next. Don't confuse acceleration
and speed. Check the easing between your keys - something heavy will need
a bigger ease, something light might not need easing at all. What caused
the ease - is it related to a force, or to a visual hold?
Forces/Leading Limbs/Weight. Forces set a
structure into motion, or stop the motion - ie. forces allow a motion to be
changed. Weight keeps a motion going (ie gives something momentum) and
pulls it downwards. Remember that weight never takes a break and will
start tipping a character over as soon as a leg is raised. Don't just
consider how weight works in a walk or a jump, think about more complex motions
aswell. A skateboarder can move forward to some extent by
weaving from side to side - they lean off balance, their body tips forward
gaining speed, then they steer back the other way bringing their board
underneath them. A surfer on a day with bad waves does a similar motion
pumping the board from side to side, and by weaving he turns his weight into a
forward motion. Weight doesn't just pull things down, its a key element in
moving forwards. Without gravity, even if our feet were somehow stuck to
the ground, we would be shuffling rather than walking and would have to do
a lot more work to pull ourselves forwards. By leaning off balance we give
ourselves forward speed. Leading limbs - check which limb moves first -
does it draw the eye to the right place? is it the natural limb to move (a dog
will usually start walking with one of its rear legs first because in terms of
phase difference the rear legs are a half cycle ahead of the front legs)?
Secondary action relates to the leading limb.
if the leading limb is the first thing to move, try to work out the chain
reaction of what move next - I move my foot, but really the leading limb is my
upper leg, then my lower leg follows and my foot drags behind. Working up
the chain, my uppper leg no longer has support on the ground, my hips drop on
one side and this propagates up my spine - my upper body adjust to move my
weight over my other leg and you get counteranimation around my neck and
shoulders to keep my head level - all one after the other, all time offset (ie
overlapping action). If you combine secondary action and follow through
you get successive breaking of the joints. Follow through happens in space
(ie following the path), but also in time (one thing after another). The
way our bodies move is like any structure (say a tower of cards) one thing
affects the next. Check what is deliberate movement (independant action)
by the character, and what is movement due to forces, or secondary action.
When I started out I found the different terms of
secondary/independant/overlapping act & follow through all confusing and for
the most part treated them as one thing, but realising that there are in fact
four separate ideas to look for was a big help. Don't confuse any of the
different types, and make sure you've covered all of them.
Squash and stretch is self explanatory for
cartoons, but check you've maintained volume. What is the direction of the
squash (in line with the stopping force) or the stretch (following the shape of
the drag)? For rigid objects you can use squash and stretch in forming the
pose without actually squashing or stretching the actual anatomy of the
character. for example a stretched pose might be if you stand up on tip
toes with your legs and back straight and your arms above your head and fingers
reaching as high as you can - without distoring the limbs you still get the idea
of a stretch. A squash might be a crouch - imagine you've jumped from a
great height - you don't squash elastically like a ball, but rather you crouch
to absorb the force and spread your libs sideways somewhat. Consider the
squash and stretch to work on the bounding box of the character.
With aniticipation you need to check the SIZE
of your anticipation and the LENGTH - again two separate things - don't talk
about a big anticipation, be specific - is it a big movement over a short time
for example? In general if the action is physically large, then the
anticipation will be physically large. If the action is physically small,
then the anticipation will be physically small. However if the action will
take a long time then the anticipation will be over quickly (so as not to bore
the audience, or tire the character - for example someone about to run a
marathon doesn't have a dramatic anticipative movement before the start the
race). vice versa if an action is going to be over very quickly (eg
someone hitting a baseball with a bat) the anticiaption needs to be long to give
the audience time to read it. The size of an anticipation is proportional
to the action, wheras the length of an anticipation is OPPOSITE to the length of
an action. Sometimes surprise is key though and giving the audience no
warning at all is the best option.
Finally I check that the character hasn't 'broken'
the model or the rig in any way - I do this last because I don't want to be
animating around problems, rather I animate as best I can, and hope it works,
and if it doesn't I'll try to fix it on the model rather than by fiddling with
the animation. Check details like eyes and stiff fingers - hands can be
really expressive.
Only once I've gone through all of this stuff, is
it then time to ask someone else for crits. Really its so important to be
able to spot errors in your own work rather than relying on others to spot them
for you. The easiest way to spot mistakes is to have a logical way of
looking for problems (I use this checklist I've typed up which has most of my
common mistakes in), and also to have another way of looking at your work.
If you struggle with a drawing then looking at it from a different angle or
mirrored to see whats wrong. If you're working in 3D and you've already
seen the problem pose from all angles then draw that pose by hand and you'll
soon discover whats wrong by reconsidering the pose in a different medium, or at
the line of action stage. Reference everything and don't rely on reference
other people have given you - discover it yourself from videos and sketches -
that way it'll stick much better in your memory.
Hoe this helps - was good to type up my own rough
notes just to recap my workflow. Hopefully I'll neaten these up into a
blogpost soon now I've gone to the effort!
cheers