One Piece New Leaks
Abigayle Laurenitis
That one piece water tray looks great, I originally planned on making a one piece water table when I first assembled my pro but ended up using the one it came with. I have zero leaks with the two piece tray. When it came to the water tray I decided to install it my own way. I used automotive panel bond instead of silicone and I used stainless steel hardware when bolting the halves together. I also used stainless pop rivets down low on the flange but I should of just used my spot welder. After doing that it is probably just as solid as a one piece tray. Instead of using the sheet metal screws to hold the tray down I used stainless steel toilet tank bolts I had laying around and they are long enough to go all the way through the frame rail. One day I will build a new tray, I have a pile of scrap stainless sheets from restaurant commercial kitchens. I previously did work for a demolition company doing all the electrical disconnections and isolation work so whenever they get a restaurant job I go in and salvage whatever stainless I can first.
I got some roofing seam sealer made for commercial rubber roofing. BIL works for Firestone. They sell rubber for industrial roofing. Applied that right over the entire seam. No leaks to date (approx 4 months).
I just changed my sink from 2 sinks (where dishwasher installed to the garbage disposal) to one sink (no disposal). I bought a tail piece ( i think that's what they are called) from Depot that is plastic.
The top screws in...works fine....the "y" goes to the dishwasher drain and appears to be fine and the bottom goes down INSIDE the CPVC, 1 1/2". On the bottom it has the plastic/rubberish stopper and a plastic nut which screws over the CPVC to lock it in.
When the dishwasher drains and ONLY when it drains, I have water pushing back up and out the top of the nuts and leaks out.
I have no clue why. I even tried cutting the plastic tail piece down to a closer size but I screwed that up since when I tighten the nut again it pulls off at the bottom
Any ideas?
I believe you are referring to a slip nut and washer ? Is the flat part of the washer against the nut and the beveled edge pointing down ? Is the surface of the tailpiece perfectly smooth ? Sometimes a ridge is formed when the tailpiece is manufactured and that can cause a leak.
quote; I even tried cutting the plastic tail piece down to a closer size but I screwed that up since when I tighten the nut again it pulls off at the bottom
I am not sure what that means you did, but it could mean you need a new tailpiece. WHICH nut is leaking, the top one or the bottom? If it leaks from the dishwasher, it should leak from the sink, if you had enough water in it. We can't tell you why it happens, because it normally only leaks if it is not tight enough.
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I had the lower hose that goes between the two radiators get punctured on a ride so I replaced that hose. I wanted to test the system for leaks so I capped the system and blew air into the overflow hose by the cap to check for leaks. In doing this I noticed a significant amount of coolant coming from the tee piece inside the frame....great.
It may be that by replacing the T piece hose that you have dislodged the metal pipe which screws into the cross piece to form the T. KTM put thread locker on this part and make a special tool (quite cheap) to loosen/tighten the pipe. We've only ever had one leak here and managed to grip the bottom of the pipe (on our 125) with water pump pliers protecting the pipe with a rag to nip it up. May not be this but worth checking.
chances are that the tube has been worn away just at the spot where it shows through the frame the coolant hose was not installed correctly as it acts as a cushion against the frame so time for a new T
Took a closer look and the coolant hose that connects to the bottom of the T was just slightly loose. Tightened it up and its solid now. Pretty surprising to see loose radiator clamps on a brand new bike from the factory. Thanks for the tip
This is a common problem, especially with older toilets that use natural rubber washers. The rubber breaks down over time and will eventually begin to leak. The newer synthetic washers will last much longer.
It is unfortunate that you already have taken it apart because you will have a harder time determining the source of the leak. When you run into a leak of this kind, it is best to first check the supply line itself, as it is the easiest to access. Shut off the water supply, and drain the tank of water. Then unscrew the supply line and inspect the washer. It should be firm and flexible, yet hold its shape and be in one piece. If it is not, then it needs to be be replaced and you can reinstall the supply line. After a quick test, you should be able to see if this fixed the leak. If it leaks from the supply, make sure that the washer is in place. On Occasion, the washer is missing right from the beginning. They either fall off, or people take them off.
The other place it could be leaking is from inside of the tank. You will need to disassemble the toilet as above. You will then needs to loosen the retaining nut on the outside bottom of the tank where the supply line goes. Loosening this nut should allow you to lift out the fill valve. Inspect the washer on the valve, and check if it is good. Also check the threaded part to make sure there aren't any cracks in the fill valve body as well. Replace washer, and reinstall.
By replacing both of these washers, it should solve the leak. If it doesn't then there may be a fault in the parts themselves - either the supply kine is bad, or the fill valve, or possibly a combination of both. Also be sure that it is leaking from the supply, and not from anywhere else. There could either be a crack in the porcelain, or there could be a bad tank to bowl seal. There are "universal" rebuild kits available out there that include everything that you need to rebuild a toilet. They include all washers, fill valve, and a flapper. The only part that is not included is the supply line. If the internals of the toilet are old, or not functioning properly, then it would be a good idea to do an entire rebuild.
I suspect because you have a new supply line that the upper nut, white in the photo, could be the problem. It holds the fill valve mechanism inside the tank securely to the porcelain tank, if the gasket ( inside the tank at the bottom of the fill valve), is damaged or is simply not tight enough then water could be leaking out of the tank. You could replace that washer and maybe use some plumbers putty between it and the porcelain.
Have an older 40 x 80 Quonset building that is tinned, but leaks. Need new tin or something. Not sure if the inside 1 inch boards that the new tin would be nailed to are of very good quality after all the leaking. It is not insulated. I know I need to stop the leaking first before insulating.
I was thinking there is a white membrane you can put on a flat roof, instead of tar and rock. Could I use this over the corrugated tin? It seem like it would be simple to install, maybe. And if it was glued it would have no holes for the water to get in. Then I could put in bat insulation and cover it with plywood, on the bottom 8 ft.
Just going to do 1/2 of the building and put a curtain in it so as not to heat to much, but have room to work on the combine, ect.
What say you all ?
SE/SC Nebraska. Who do I talk to?
First of all...I did read a post from someone having a similiar problem. But what happened to me is a partial piece of black plastic came out of the Grouphead area some years ago...since then I have continued to brew...but have leakage. Sometimes minimal and sometimes a lot. But I tend to still get a shot. (albeit messy). I found your great site but I wonder if I have to go thru the top of the Barista to fix this (looks daunting) or can I go into the grouphead area and fix from there? I have the SIN006 but it is an older model...serial number is 122643. Thanks for any help u can afford me. Kind regards. Vince
Does anybody have a picture of these "black plastic ramps"? I think I see them but they're not very pronounced. Also, I end up with the portafilter swung all the way right and still not very solid in terms of sealing. I just put a new gasket in and that did not help. This is my dads machine I'm fixing for him, he said it didn't have this problem before I worked on it. :-(I took apart the boiler and cleaned it and installed a new pump)
Hi Vincent. That black plastic piece is one of the ramps that sits inside of the brew head. They catch the collars of the portafilter as you turn it and raise it to seal against the brew head gasket. Missing one of these ramps would create leakage on that side of the portafilter. If the plastic piece is mostly intact you may be able to glue it back in place; if you flip the machine upside down and look in the brew head it should be obvious where it goes (opposite from the other ramp). You'll want to clean the area of any coffee grounds first and use a heat-tolerant glue.
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