Rumney - Memorial Day Weekend 2013

[Erik Moskowitz]

For those interested, I'm planning an overnight trip to Rumney for Memorial Day weekend. The plan would be to leave early Saturday morning to drive up there, climb for the day, camp overnight (potentially at Baker River Campground which has the best local rates), and climb on Sunday before driving home (and resting our broken bodies on Monday). Check out Rumney's (somewhat outdated) site for details of the location.

This trip will be heavily weather dependent. Climbing in the rain is kinda crummy - especially where many of Rumney's climbs are overhung with trees until you get up higher. The rock stays pretty wet (and cold) due to the shade.

I have gear for sport climbing at Rumney (i.e., enough quickdraws for any single climb there), but would need some other folks with draws and rope in order to set up multiple climbs. Three to four people per climb is about the limit before it gets boring waiting for others to finish. And, if the weather is amazing, the rock will get pretty crowded with other climbers.

I also have gear to set up top rope anchors (though I only own a single dynamic climbing rope), but you don't normally have to build anchors at Rumney - most every route is bolted at the top (which instead requires the ability to set up a top rope while on belay - a unique skill that we'll practice on the ground first). **Be aware that many sport climbs at Rumney require someone to lead the route first to set up a top rope anchor (not all anchor areas are accessible by foot).** 

I also have a crashpad for those who want to boulder a bit (or nap).

Please let me know if you're interested and I'll start putting together a list. I'll also prepare a gear/camping equipment spreadsheet if necessary so that people can come prepared.

Erik

[Omer Lang]

Erik,

Thanks for planning.  I'm down for a day trip on Saturday, if anybody wants to go there and back the same day.

I've got quickdraws and a rope.  And a couple crashpads.

-Omer

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[gennis.andreas]

I'm game!

I'm not free Saturday, but I'm happy to climb both Sunday and Monday.  I'm looking to sport climb and I've got the gear to do it :-)

[Erik Moskowitz]

Update on Memorial Day trip:

I've been emailing with the Baker River campground and I received this message:

----

Hi Erik,

 

Unfortunately, we have a three night minimum stay for the holiday weekends, as do most local campgrounds.  However, one thing we do offer is a "Shared Climber's Site".  It is a group site with only climbers, and allows for those who do not want to stay the 3 nights.  However, we also suggest reserving in advance, as this usually fills up too.  If you would like to reserve a spot on it, we will need your address, phone number and a check mailed as soon as possible for $10/person based on the number of committed adults. 

 

Cheryl Lewis

Baker River Campground

With this in mind, I would suggest that people confirm with me soon whether they're interested in camping overnight any of the nights of Memorial Day weekend. I plan to go up on Saturday to climb for the day, camp for a single night, and climb Sunday before heading home. I'd like to have a proper headcount and reserve some spots at the "climber's site" soon. I've asked about the cancellation policy and will post that info when it comes in, but please let me know if you're in.

Thanks!

Erik

On Monday, May 6, 2013 1:49:01 PM UTC-4, Erik Moskowitz wrote:

[Erik Moskowitz]

Ok, last update for now about the camping near Rumney on Memorial Day. Here's the latest from Baker River:

Our cancellation policy is 10 days prior to camping to receive a refund.  My suggestion would be to wait and call at the last minute.  If we have space still available, we will let you know.  Otherwise, you will lose your full deposit, which is based on $10/person/night, and which we will need to hold your space.

It seems that, if we have to cancel at the last minute, we'll lose our deposit. Which is only $10 for a single overnight. I appreciate them acting like this is a ton of money, but I'm comfortable reserving a spot soon and losing the $10 if the weather prevents a trip rather than waiting until the last minute and not having a spot on an otherwise busy vacation weekend.

Erik

On Monday, May 6, 2013 1:49:01 PM UTC-4, Erik Moskowitz wrote:

[Kristie Miles]

My amazing experience at the Gunks has motivated me to sell my Tix to Boston Calling Music Festival Saturday and instead, climb at Rumney with you guys for the day! 

Is this trip still on? Is anyone planning on going up for a day trip Saturday? 

I have draws, a rope, and top rope anchor gear as well!

Kristie

kristi...@gmail.com

617 515 4518

[Ralf Meermeier]

I don't know about everybody else, but I reserved myself a spot on the shared site from Friday to Monday. So, I will definitely be there on Saturday for climbing!

[Erik Moskowitz]

The Rumney trip is definitely still on for those interested. As of now, Ralf and I are the only two guaranteed attendees with ropes and draws, I believe. Omer, Mike, and Andreas all mentioned they were interested and have gear, but I don't know if they're still in.

My partner and I booked a spot at the climber's site at Baker River Campground for Saturday night. (They cleverly only take check so I had to mail them a check to hold a spot for us.) My plan is to get to the Rumney parking lot by 9am the latest on Saturday morning. I have a feeling it'll get pretty packed on Memorial Day weekend. I'll be driving up out of Boston if anyone needs a ride (I'll have room for two comfortably since we have to pick up my partner on the way up) and returning Sunday afternoon.

Weather looks like it's supposed to be pretty crummy this week, but lighten up and be beautiful this weekend.

There're other campgrounds in the area - in fact Eugene mentioned that he's camped right across from the parking lot in the large field the last couple of years. If you can find info online, go for it. I'm sure there'll be a group of us at Baker River though if you want to join us.

If anyone has any questions, please let me know,

Erik

[Michael Neivert]

Hey all,

 

Unfortunately, I'm not going to be able to make this one, as my older brother is in town for the weekend. I'm definitely interested in getting up there, so keep me in the loop for next time!

Best,

Mike

[ethan meyers]

I've got a car and am interested in driving up for the day on Saturday.  I don't have much gear or any experience leading, but would like to second someone with a bit more experience.

Ethan

[Carrie Pshedesky]

Same here. I'll be away memorial weekend but I'd love to get up to rumney with y'all soon!

have fun.

Carrie

On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Michael Neivert <mnei...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Andreas Gennis]

I'm busy Saturday (skydiving!), but I'm driving up Sunday for either a day or two of climbing. Any one want to carpool?

I'll be leading 8's and 9's for sure. Possibly 10's as well.

Hope everyone had fun at the Gunks! I had a blast :-)

Dre

[Kristie Miles]

Hey Ethan! Well this works out great! I dont have a car, but I have a rope and draws :) 
I can lead some 8's/9's if you're comfortable belaying lead climbs. We could also probably tag along with Ralf and Eric :)

My email is 

kristi...@gmail.com

Let's coordinate!

[Rachel Burns]

Hmmm, so I am supposed to race on Sunday, which would make it pretty hard to climb at Rumney Saturday and get back to Boston Sunday morning but let me see if I can switch and do a Friday night race instead.  If so, I have a car, too (as of Thursday, yay!).

On Monday, May 6, 2013 1:49:01 PM UTC-4, Erik Moskowitz wrote:

[emanove]

Hey -- I'm hoping to come up Saturday with you and Kristie, Ethan! thanks for the ride. I have a rope and am planning on buying some quickdraws. I've never been there but I'm guessing I would be leading 7s, 8s and hopefully some 9s (depending on how hard they grade :)

On Monday, May 20, 2013 12:00:53 PM UTC-4, ethan.meyers wrote:

[Seth Lenzi]

Hello everyone,

I'll be coming up for a day trip on Saturday with my friend Omer.  I have a rope, a bunch of carabiners, and other misc gear, but no quickdraws though.  Omer has a rope as well, and I think he has a bunch of draws.

Seth

[Michael Brown]

I'll be heading up early on Saturday morning.  Let's pick a time/place to meet up as a group in the morning.  Does that sound like a good idea Erik?  Your call.

I just booked three spots at Baker River campground for myself and two buddies on Saturday night (one of which is an AMC rock grad 2012).  I plan to climb again at Rumney on Sunday before heading farther north for growlers and glory in North Woodstock.  I'll have two ropes, anchor gear, and draws.

Also, can someone recommend a good guide book to Rumney?  I've been using Mountain Project but it'll probably be good to invest in some old-school book technology.

Let me know!

Mike Brown

Mike Brown

Alpine Hammock, LLC

CoFounder

207.619.0592

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[Michael Neivert]

Hey Mike,

 

Try this one:

http://www.wolverinepublishing.com/rumney

 

You can find it at any REI or EMS.

[Erik Moskowitz]

Mike,

I'll be leaving Boston early Saturday to pick up my partner in Manchester (and some breakfast) on the way up. I plan to get to the main Rumney parking lot by 9am. If folks are arriving around that time, 9am would be a good time to meet at the lot. I presume that the Parking Lot wall will get pretty busy so I was thinking of taking a slightly longer approach to check out some further away climbs (Main Cliff and Jimmy Cliff have some great things to try). Depending on how everyone's grades are feeling, we may need to split up a bit to find good selections.

We're staying at Baker River Saturday evening and climbing again Sunday (might make it to the parking lot on Sunday a bit earlier since we'll be right there). Seems like there'll be a crowd of us on at Baker River.

As for guide books, I've used the Ward Smith "Rumney" guides for years. They're pretty good - though they only have topo maps, not full photos of the crags. I just picked up the newest edition (which I think is copyright 2009) at EMS. I'm sure REI has them in stock.

See y'all Saturday.

On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Michael Brown <mi...@alpinehammock.com> wrote:

[Michael Brown]

Cool, thanks for the book recommendation.

I'll plan to meet you guys at the main lot by 9am on Saturday.  As an FYI my number is 207-299-3574.

Mike Brown

[Benjamin Davis]

Hi Everyone,

 

Would someone be kind enough to give me a ride to and from Rumney on Saturday? Let me know if you are heading up and want some awesome company for the ride!

 

Ben

 

[Rachel Burns]

Is there any consensus on what we're doing regarding the weather?  Erik initially said the trip was heavily weather dependent.  It's looking now like it is going to rain, which, of course, could change tomorrow (or even in five minutes) but what's the plan if it does?  Everyone still going or will most of us bail?

On Monday, May 6, 2013 1:49:01 PM UTC-4, Erik Moskowitz wrote:

[Ralf Meermeier]

I was about to write an email too, yeah. I was looking forward to an extended camping weekend with some climbing thrown in, but the way it looks the camping part wouldn't be too much fun, and the rocks would be wet too.

[Kristie Miles]

Yeap, not looking great. 

I'm going to have to bail this time-but let's make plans to get out there again soon!

[Seth Lenzi]

I'm on the bail list as well. No fun climbing in the rain!  Hopefully we can all coordinate for another weekend.

[Erik Moskowitz]

Ok, all - I think my partner and I are calling it.

I've been tracking the weather all day and despite thinking that it was worth going up to Rumney to check it out, it looks like it's going to be pretty wet tonight and all day tomorrow. Even if the weather clears up for Saturday (which it's not predicted to do), it'll still be pretty soggy up there. No fun!

So - instead, we'll be heading to Boston Rock Gym on Saturday morning for those who want to still get in some climbing. We plan to get there by 11am if anyone's interested in joining.

I'll be sure to keep an eye on the weather for the next few weekends to see if we can reschedule the Rumney trip.

Thanks for all the interest. Can't wait to make it happen.

Erik

[Rachel Burns]

I think a couple of us are also contemplating Quincy Quarries on Monday, too, since the weather might actually be decent.

We'll have to try Rumney again when the weather is more cooperative, Erik!