Chez Ma Tante’s Pancakes
YIELD: 6 to 8 large pancakes
TIME: 20 minutes
At the Brooklyn restaurant Chez Ma Tante, the brunch pancakes come two
to an order, big as dessert plates and almost burnt. “I knew I wanted
them to be really, really crispy,” said the chef de cuisine Jake
Leiber. He was inspired by a fairly straightforward pancake recipe
made with bacon fat he found in “How America Eats,” the seminal
cookbook by Clementine Paddleford, an American food historian. Mr.
Leiber swaps the lard for butter, adds an extra egg yolk to his
batter, cranks up the heat on his vintage cast-iron skillet, then
pours in an outrageous amount of melted clarified butter. Fried in
shallow pools of hot fat, each pancake gets fritter-like crisped
edges. Mr. Leiber serves them with more butter, and glugs of maple
syrup.
INGREDIENTS:
1 large egg
1 egg yolk
2 ½ tablespoons baking powder
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 ¼ cups whole milk
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons clarified butter (or store-bought), melted
Salted butter, for serving (optional)
Maple syrup, for serving
PREPARATION:
Whisk egg and yolk together in a medium bowl. Add baking powder, sugar
and salt; whisk until smooth and fluffy. Pour in half the milk, then
half the flour. Using a wooden spoon, stir to combine. Add the
remaining milk and flour plus 2 tablespoons clarified butter and stir
briefly just until batter comes together but is still somewhat lumpy.
Heat a large 12-inch cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium-high for
at least 5 minutes. Pour about 1/4 cup clarified butter into the pan.
When the surface of the clarified butter starts to shimmer, ladle
about 1/3 cup of the batter into the skillet for each pancake, leaving
a couple of inches between each pancake. Add more clarified butter as
pancakes cook to keep about 1/8 inch of fat in the bottom of the pan
at all times.
Cook until the top of the pancake starts to bubble and edges turn
browned and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a spatula to flip each pancake.
The cooked surface should be very crispy, with a dark ring around the
edge. Cook until the second side is browned and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes.
Repeat to cook the remaining pancakes, adding more clarified butter as
needed.
Serve immediately with pats of salted butter, if desired, and maple
syrup. If making a large batch, cooked pancakes can be kept warm on a
wire rack set in a rimmed metal baking sheet in a 300-degree oven.
Tip:
The batter can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight. You might
need to increase cook time on the pancakes by 1 minute or so on each
side.
Photo:
https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/05/08/dining/dg-chez-ma-tante-pancakes/dg-chez-ma-tante-pancakes-articleLarge.jpg