F250 Synthetic Oil
fordjr
4X4, 5.4L Automatic. Anyone have any experience with the products available
for use? Amsoil is one option for me, and the other would be Mobil 1, as it
is available almost anywhere you can buy auto products.
The other option I am considering is relocation of the oil filter and
converting to a dual filter system. However, I have not yet decided if that
will be such a good idea. Not much room under the hood. Mileage is 2800
and thinking of making the switch on first oil change.
Todd Heide
There is a thread for redline synthetic already and it is very long! I
personally have used Mobil one and have had very good results, and as far as
the filter setup, that is up to you. Its a very good idea, and will make
your oil last much longer. It's up to you if you want to spendthe time and
money to put it in.
"fordjr" <for...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:a6ahn4$84p$1...@slb6.atl.mindspring.net...
fordjr
mounting location for the dual filter unit. As I now look under the hood,
doesn't seem to be a lot of options. The other option would be an under
carriage mounting location. I would have to contend with the possibility of
road surface obstructions and such contacting the filter units and, well you
can picture what the end result there would be.
"Todd Heide" <kil...@grandillusion.org> wrote in message
news:%x7i8.381935$eS3.28...@bin3.nnrp.aus1.giganews.com...
Debbie and Roger Bess
I used Amsoil full synthetic 5w-30 for around 17 or 18k miles. During that
time I still changed the motorcraft oil filter every 3 or 4k miles..
The engine felt no different in any way after switching to Amsoil.. It also
seem to consume almost a quart every 3k miles with Amsoil.
After it was in about 10k, I changed the oil and filter (sticking with
Amsoil). and ran it for another 6k or 7k miles.. I kept very detailed MPG
records on every fill up and charted them.. It sortof looks like after the
2nd oil change, the MPG's did go up .25 to .75 mpg's.. You don't really
notice it from tank to tank, but when I charted, there was a very slight
increase that I couldn't attribute to anything else.
However, I don't believe Amsoil offers any additional protection vs normal
oil thats changed every 3k miles.. The additional cost of Amsoil, natural
oil consumption, and oil lost doing oil changes, seem to wipe out any
savings gained by modest mpg gain.
I switched back to my normal Havoline 5w-30 (for the last 9k miles). On my
89' Ranger I ran Havoline and changed it every 3k miles, and its still going
strong with 225k miles and doesn't consume any oil.. My opinion is that in
my case, synthetics are not worth the additional cost..
"fordjr" <for...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:a6ahn4$84p$1...@slb6.atl.mindspring.net...
Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie
"Debbie and Roger Bess" <rnd...@attglobal.net> wrote:
>.. I kept very detailed MPG
> records on every fill up and charted them.. It sortof looks like after the
> 2nd oil change, the MPG's did go up .25 to .75 mpg's.. You don't really
> notice it from tank to tank, but when I charted, there was a very slight
> increase that I couldn't attribute to anything else.
>
I've read that the engine is really broken in until about 10 or 12K
and that the mileage should climb slightly from new to that point.
--
Ralph Lindberg personal email n7...@amsat.org
RV and Camping FAQ http://kendaco.telebyte.com/rlindber/rv
If Windows is the answer I would really like to know what the question is
fordjr
someone to tell me, this is what you need, and this is what will be best for
you. I live in central Ohio and am exposed to varied climate conditions. I
would suspect the 5-30 viscosity oil will be fine for my use in the weather
patterns experienced here. I just need to decide on whose synthetic product
to use. I like Amsoil, Mobil, and Red at this point. I need to narrow it
down.
I will be using a remote mount dual filter system on the inside frame rail
for sure, professional fittings and hose to accompany.
<mic...@thelastchurch.org> wrote in message
news:d7aj8u450eagcpjre...@4ax.com...
>
> >> The other option I am considering is relocation of the oil filter and
> >> converting to a dual filter system. However, I have not yet decided if
> >>that will be such a good idea. Not much room under the hood.
>
> Amsoil makes a duel filter system that you can install remote, Under
> or in the front bumper, any where you like.
> "http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=304333&page=store"
>
> The link is for the online store. Have it delivered to your door.
>
>
> Amsoil:
> SAE Viscosity 20W-50
> Kinematic Viscosity@100 deg. C, cSt 19.2 15.2
> Kinematic Viccosity@40 deg. C, cSt 140 128
> Viscosity Index 157 123
> Apparent Viscosity(CCS)@ -10deg. C 2600 3550
> High Temp./High Shear Viscosity cP, 150 deg C 1.0x10^6 s.^-1 5.13
>
> Pour Point, Deg F -44
> Flash Point, Deg F 507
> Fire Point, Deg F 529
>
> NOACK Volatility, % weight loss 6.1 6.9
> Four Ball Wear Test, Scar Diameter,mm 0.30
> Total Base Number 9.7
>
>
>
> The Data:****************************************
> Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available
>
> Brand &W/W VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> 20W-50
> AMSOIL (old) *** *136 482 -38 <.5 --- Amsoil
> The over all best of the best.
> AMSOIL (new) **** 157 507 -44 --- --- Amsoil
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 --- ---
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Red Line 150 503 -49 --- ---
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- ---
> Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .15
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 <1.5 .12
>
> AMSOIL VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> 20W-40 124 500 -49 .05 .03
>
> 20W-50 VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> AMSOIL (old) 136 482 -38 .5 .4
> AMSOIL (new) 157 507 -44 .05 .03 Amsoil
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12
> Quaker State 121 415 -15 .95 .23
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Mobil 1 170 470 -55 .64 .58
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Red Line 152 503 -49 .46 .38
>
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> 5W-50
> Castrol Syntec 180 437 -45 1.2 .10
>
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Quaker State Synquest 173 457 -46 .82 .66
>
>
> 5w40 VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Havoline 170 450 -40 1.45 ---
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> 15W-40
> AMSOIL (old) 135 460 -38 .5 .4
> AMSOIL (new) 164 462 -49 --- --- Amsoil
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Red Line 149 495 -40 --- ---
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> 10W-30
> AMSOIL (old) 142 480 -70 .5 .3
> AMSOIL (new) 162 520 -76 --- --- Amsoil
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Mobil 1 160 450 -45 .52 .23
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 ---
>
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Red Line 139 475 -40 --- ---
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- ---
>
> 5W-30 VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> AMSOIL (old) 168 480 -76 .5 ---
> AMSOIL (new) 186 464 -76 .4 --- Amsoil
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Mobil 1 165 415 -55 --- .84
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 ---
>
> VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
> Red Line 151 455 -49 --- ---
> ________________________________________________
> EVEN though Mobil-1 and all the rest lose out to Amsoil in these
> numbers I would say they are getting pretty close.
>
> The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining
> what makes a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type,
> quality, and quantity of additives used are the most important, and
> the best of these are only in Amsoil. The given data combined with
> the manufacturer's claims, your personal experience, and the
> reputation of the oil among others who use it should help you make
> an informed choice
>
> AMSOIL motor oil is more expensive than any oils because of the
> quality of the ingredients used. In some cases, AMSOIL uses
> additives that no other company in the United States, because of
> cost, is willing to use. In short, you get what you pay for. Do you
> want the best?
>
> But then I can also show you how to get Amsoil for.... free.
>
>
>
> Michael
> A preacher is the blind
> leading the blind...
>
> The Last Church
> http://www.thelastchurch.org
> mic...@thelastchurch.org
CJB
couple years ago that said the closest thing to amsoil in protection was
Castrol Syntec 5W50. The range of these two weights would seem to offer the
best all around protection.
I use Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W40 in my gas engines. I trust the
Rotella name, and the price isn't bad.
I do not trust Amsoil, simply because I've seen the sludge black
condition the oil exhibits after their long drain intervals.
CJB
"fordjr" <for...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:a6ef2b$pvd$1...@slb1.atl.mindspring.net...
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ErikUA
131,000 miles Been using Mobil 1 10W30 with Motorcraft Filter since its 5th or
so oil change. Runs like new, doesnt burn any oil, oil still looks in good
condition after 3,000 mile intervals.
Very Happy.
Mobil 1 is easy to find.
You cant find Amsoil or Redline at Wally World =-P
E
Matt Macchiarolo
concerned with the fact that the factory engine specs call for 5W20. Has that
been a concern for you? I assume you chose 5w30...
Thanks
Matt
In article <hlul8u0eq1rcf8g5m...@4ax.com>, Tom Slick
<tom_...@thunderboltgreaseslapper.com> writes:
>2002 F350 SD CC 4WD 6.8l Auto.. Switched to Mobil 1 at 1st oil change
>just shy of 3200 miles. I keep a log of all expenditures for this
>truck as well as mileage and noticed an increase of over 1 MPG over
>the next 3 tankfuls. Mobil 1 or the ECC "learning" my driving
>habits?? Dunno.. Only thing I know is I'm going to be holding on to
>this thing well past the 100k miles mark and I'm a synthetic oil "fan"
>so the extra cost is worth it to me..
>
>I do change oil every 3,000 miles, regardless of manufacturers
>recommendations. My '91 4Runner is about to hit the 200k mark and
>still runs as good as the day I bought it. Mobil 1 has been in it
>since about 40k miles... *NO* lubrication related problems at all.
>(Unless you want to count the rear cam seal that let go and pissed oil
>down the back of the motor last year. ehhhe)
>
* * *
Matt Macchiarolo
'02 F250 SD Crewcab
'00 TJ Sport
'93 XJ Country
www.wolverine4wd.org
http://hardcorejeep.com/shots/mm.html
fordjr
remote mount dual filter system, made by Perma Cool, and available from Jegs
Automotive in Columbus, OH. I am choosing Mobile because I have read many
good things about it in the various NG's I have posted and read. I am using
a remote mount filtration system for doubling my filter and filtration
capacity. Mobil is readily available in many areas.
My intention is to leave the synthetic oil in for the full range of mileage
as specified in my truck owners manual for oil change intervals, 7,500
miles. I will actually leave the oil in for 10,000 and change the filter
units at the 5,000 mile interval. I have read that I can probably leave the
Mobil 1 in for around 15,000 miles, as long as I maintain a steady filter
change interval and then drain and put clean Mobil 1 and filters at each
15,000 mile interval.
That is my plan right now and I think that is probably my final decision.
"Matt Macchiarolo" <mlma...@aol.comantispam> wrote in message
news:20020310120651...@mb-cm.aol.com...
Matt Macchiarolo
<tom_...@thunderboltgreaseslapper.com> writes:
>Now my last "concern" is oil filters. I've been using genuine
>Motorcraft for now, but have been looking to something with better
>filtration cababilities... Suggestions???
Mobil 1 filters if money is no object, but the Motorcraft filters are actually
very good...
Matt Macchiarolo
>Don't know it that was in jest or not, but he said 5W30 Mobil1 would
>be fine. I was still very concerned for a couple weeks after the
>change, but noticed no problems so I'm assuming it's ok to run this
>stuff.. I've just passed 6k miles and will be doing change number 2
>today.. :)
Thanks...i've heard same, just wanted to confirm.
>
>Now my last "concern" is oil filters. I've been using genuine
>Motorcraft for now, but have been looking to something with better
>filtration cababilities... Suggestions???
If $$$ is no object, I'd suggest the Mobil 1 filters, but the Motorcraft are
actually quite good.
Zeuspaul
>concerned with the fact that the factory engine specs call for 5W20. Has that
>been a concern for you? I assume you chose 5w30...
My understanding from reading the newsgroups is Ford made the change to 5w20
without making changes in the engine. The reason for the change was to increase
the overall fuel efficiency...some kind of benefit with respect to government
regulations.
I made the switch to Mobil 5w30 and am satisfied on a 2001 F250 V10. I keep an
accurate MPG record. I have not done the numbers recently however initial
results pointed to 12.5 MPG vs 13.5 MPG...13.5 MPG is for Mobil 1. The increase
in MPG just about pays for the increased cost of the oil. You get the added
benefit of lower operating temperatures due to lower friction. Lower operating
temperatures should increase the life of electronic components. I know there is
less friction with Mobil 1 because the truck goes down the hill faster when I use
second gear to brake on a long steep downhill.
If Ford wants an overall increase in MPG they would be better off recommending
Mobil 1.
Zeuspaul
rsteebe
oil in my 2002 F250 V8 to the mobil and filter, 5w-30. I plan on a 5k mile
filter change, and every 10K oil and filter change.
"Zeuspaul" <zeus...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:3C8D673F...@worldnet.att.net...
Matt Macchiarolo
whether you use dino or synth.
In article <a6ntju$qtn$1...@slb2.atl.mindspring.net>, "rsteebe"
<rst...@yahoo.com> writes:
>What mileage intervals are you changing your oil? I have just changed the
>oil in my 2002 F250 V8 to the mobil and filter, 5w-30. I plan on a 5k mile
>filter change, and every 10K oil and filter change.
>
>"Zeuspaul" <zeus...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
>news:3C8D673F...@worldnet.att.net...
>> >I've been wanting to change to Mobil 1 for my 2002 F250 V10 but was
>somewhat
>> >concerned with the fact that the factory engine specs call for 5W20. Has
>that
>> >been a concern for you? I assume you chose 5w30...
>>
>> My understanding from reading the newsgroups is Ford made the change to
>5w20
>> without making changes in the engine. The reason for the change was to
>increase
>> the overall fuel efficiency...some kind of benefit with respect to
>government
Zeuspaul
changing the filter and not the oil. Filters don't have additives. The
additives protect the engine and they get used up. I am considering a 3000 mile
interval for oil with a filter change every other oil change...or 5000 and do
both.
Filters don't get the small stuff out...it remains in suspension in detergent
oil. Changing oil gets the small stuff out and replensihes the additives.
Walmart has the best price for Mobil 1 that I have found. I haven't found a
good price on the Mobil 1 filters yet.
I am getting ready to switch the ATF to Mobil 1 to see if I can improve the MPG
a little more. I know a guy who changed to Mobil 1 ATF and noted a 20 degree F
drop in the temp of his transmission. (in a GM RV)
Zeuspaul
fordjr
and only change the filters? Do they have more additives or is this a
better product all around? This is wear this synthetic oil business gets
confusing to me.
"Zeuspaul" <zeus...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:3C9019BB...@worldnet.att.net...
Matt Macchiarolo
<for...@mindspring.com> writes:
>How is it that Amsoil claims you can leave their oil in for up to 25k miles
>and only change the filters? Do they have more additives or is this a
>better product all around? This is wear this synthetic oil business gets
>confusing to me.
>
It's all smoke and mirrors. Amsoil is not API rated, their claims are just
that...claims...to try to get you to buy their oil.
It's my understanding that Amsoil is no longer making this 25K mile claim
directly but many of their sales drones still do (a couple of which post to
this group)...look up the "Proof!-synthetics Can't void warranties" thread.
Debbie and Roger Bess
Yes, you've got it.. Amsoil does have more 'additives' which allow it to
go 25k without oil changes..
Amsoil also has an oil rated for only 7500 miles. Basically it is the same
base stock as the 25k mile full synthetic oil, but with less additives to
neutralize and suspend the bad stuff.
So, I believe that both Mobile1 and Amsoil are good high quality oil. The
biggest difference is the Amsoil additives.
"fordjr" <for...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:a6pbeu$f2m$1...@nntp9.atl.mindspring.net...
Debbie and Roger Bess
advertises their 25k oil change intervals in their full synthetic product..
For example the web site quotes:
"SERVICE LIFE
In personal cars and light-duty trucks with non-turbocharged gasoline
engines: drain oil at 25,000 miles or one-year intervals, whichever comes
first. ... "
All that being said, I still use normal dino oil in my truck.. I'm more
comfortable doing 3k mile oil changes which for me is still less expensive
than using $6/quart Amsoil with extended drain intervals.. (Learned from
experience).
"Matt Macchiarolo" <mlma...@aol.comantispam> wrote in message
Zeuspaul
only change the filters? Do >they have more additives or is this a better
product all around? This is wear this synthetic oil business gets
>confusing to me.
Here's my two cents and that is about all it is worth:)
There is no magic to synthetic oil. It is engineered molecules of consistent
sizes. Dino oil is a refined oil that has a larger range of oil molecule
sizes. Dino oil viscosity represents an average of the molecules of various
sizes...big, medium and small molecules.
A synthetic of the same viscosity would not have the large and small
molecules...just one size that represents the same viscosity. That is why it
flows better and has less friction...it isn't hampered by the variations in size
of the molecules. Simply put the synthetic can be engineered to precisely fit
in the spaces that need to be lubricated. Newer engines with better machining
and tighter tolerances will benefit more from a well designed oil.
I don't know anything about the nature of the engineered oil. I presume
molecules have been chosen that don't break down under high temperatures.
I believe the detergents and other additives are a separate issue. They may be
the same or similar to those in the dino oil.
Oil breakdown doesn't seem to be a problem with synthetic so the change interval
shouldn't be based on this aspect.
Non detergent oil can wear an engine less than detergent oil. Detergent oil
holds the dirt in suspension. Non detergent oil drops the dirt in the oil pan
or other. So if there is no dirt in suspension you don't get any wear from the
dirt that is not in suspension.....but who wants an engine with dirt stuck to
all of the inside surfaces?
So most of us use detergent oil and a filter to remove the dirt from
suspension. However filters don't remove all of the dirt. If the filter
removed all of the dirt it would clog up quickly...like HEPA vacuum cleaners
that try to remove the smallest dirt...or furnace filters that try to remove
everything...they don't work very well unless they are change very frequently.
So change your oil frequently if you want to remove the smallest particles of
dirt.
I have a hard time believing any oil and its additives can can go 25000 miles.
I might be wrong but I plan on sticking with Mobil...a large conservative
corporation with a lot to lose if they make exaggerated claims....and a lot of
money to put into research and development of detergents and additives....and I
can buy it at WalMart.
A guy I work with tried one of the other synthetics...i forget the name. It
came out awhile back and made claims that it could run the engine even if the
oil were removed. I think it was in their TV commercials. They had something
in the oil that stuck to the sides of the engines. His operating temperature
went UP! Those little thingies clinging to the engine must have increased the
friction. He drained it and went back to Mobil 1.
Zeuspaul
Chief Wiggem
money in your pocket!
I have had many vehicles that I have run to over 150,000 and then sold
running perfectly, and all I ever put in was Pennzoil dino lube.
Right now, i have a 96 explorere with 110,000 on it, an 86 F250 w/ 120,000
on it and an 85 F250 Diesel with 195,000 on it .... Dino lube'd all of them
since they were just a pup..
they all run great, and don't use any oil.
I'm not saying there is anything wrong with syntheteics, but they will not
do any more for you than taping $10.00 bills to your dashboard will.
Where synthetics are really good is for extreme duty things that don't tend
to get their oil changed regularly, or are run at high rpms. (boats,
lawnmowers, compressors, jetskis, etc)..
"Zeuspaul" <zeus...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:3C916BEF...@worldnet.att.net...
StepMaster
system, would I be able to get extened mileage between oil changes?
<mic...@thelastchurch.org> wrote in message
news:vnu59u8v098u5oqel...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 15 Mar 2002 07:08:53 -0800, "Chief Wiggem" <nob...@spam.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Just use good quality Dino lube,
>
>
> Conventional oils come from crude oil that is pumped from the ground.
> Crude oil is made up of a twisted and jumbled mass of carbon atoms
> that form chains and rings of different sizes and shapes. Long chains
> of carbon atoms produce a thick viscous fluid that flows slowly.
> Shorter chains produce fluid that flows more readily.
>
> In an oil refinery, crude oil is separated into various stocks. These
> become the basis for lubricating oils and fuels. Thick tangled masses
> of carbon chains become asphalt materials used in roofing tar and
> road work. Very short chains and ring compounds of carbon are volatile
> and can be refined to produce gasoline and other solvents.
>
> While petroleum refining is an advanced science, large amounts of
> *******
> contaminants, such as sulfur, acids,wax and asphaltic material cannot
> be removed from petroleum, and will end up in motor oil base stocks.
> This is what causes most engine ware.
> *******************************
> More than 30 years ago we were looking for lubricants that would
> flow easily at extremely low temperatures. This search led to the
> development of synthetic base fluids free from the waxes and
> contaminants that cause conventional lubricants to solidify in extreme
> cold. The result was the development of a fully synthetic
> motor oil created, initially, from two synthetic base fluids -
> polyalphaolefins (PAO) and esters combined with a unique additive
> package.
>
> PAOs are made by chemically knitting molecules of ethylene into carbon
> chains of uniform length and shape. These carbon chains can remain
> liquid and slippery under the widest range of engine conditions
> possible. The PAOs are combined with an ester - a compound formed from
> the reaction of alcohol and certain acids. The resulting synthetic
> fluid provides the optimum performance properties for engine
> lubricants.
>
> Ultimately, we developed an additional synthetic base fluid - an
> alkylated aromatic - that is especially effective in protecting
> engines against wear, sludge formation and piston deposits.
>
> If your not using synthetics your losing money to say the least.
> If you think synthetics are expensive compared to junk oil, your
> wrong.
> Stop using petroleum products for anything but fuel.. For all else
> there is a synthetic that is cheaper and better. Lower demand for
> Junk oil also means lower fuel prices. The petroleum Companies
> don't want you to get smart. I have been using synthetics for 25
> years.
> Why haven't you heard about it until now?
>
> At the bottom of the TLC page is a link to The best synthetic oil
> ,and the online store.
Debbie and Roger Bess
For 25k miles..
0 miles 6quarts Amsoil 5w-30 at 5.70 + amsoil sdf filter at 11.00= 45.20
6k miles (many vehicles will consume a quart every 6k miles) = 5.70
12k miles (replace $11 filter, 1 quart to replace loss from filter + 1 quart
normal consumption)= 11.40
18k miles (1 quart consumption) = 5.70
-------
Total with Amsoil = $68 for 25k. btw: add some $$ for shipping and handling
of oil..
Dino:
25k miles is about 8 oil changes if you change around every 3k miles.. 1.10
a quart, and $3 motorcraft filters every = 9.60 x 8 = 76.80 for Dino if you
change every 3k miles..
Some folks even go to every 4k miles for changes which would bring the
total down to 57.60. (Ford recommends every 5k miles).
So Amsoil comes out around even. You were low on your cost for the Amsoil,
and high on your cost for dino's..
<mic...@thelastchurch.org> wrote in message
news:0ft59uo99kmqcfet5...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 15 Mar 2002 07:08:53 -0800, "Chief Wiggem" <nob...@spam.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Just use good quality Dino lube, Change it regularly, and put the extra
> >money in your pocket!
>
> What money??? Synthetics are way cheaper than junk oil.... do the
> math.. It cost you about $145. to run junk oil for 25,000 miles. I
> can do the same with Amsoil for $45. So it is me that puts the money
> back in my pocket. Not to mention I ain't always under the truck
> changing the junk oil.
>
> >I have had many vehicles that I have run to over 150,000 and then sold
> >running perfectly, and all I ever put in was Pennzoil dino lube.
>
> Amsoil can take you past 500,000 miles.
>
> >"Zeuspaul" <zeus...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> >news:3C916BEF...@worldnet.att.net...
> >> >How is it that Amsoil claims you can leave their oil in for up to 25k
> >miles and only change the filters?
>
> Use a by pass filter and you can run Amsoil 100,000 miles between
> changes. A junk oil filter is 30 microns, Amsoil it 4 microns. The
> by pass filter is "A" tenth of one micron.
> Junk oil brakes down at 800 miles,( no additive package) Then
> you left running, acid, sulfur, benzine and other negative chemicals
> in your engine.(That's what eats the engine)
> Amsoil does not break down even after 100,000. and you are
> not putting the negative chemicals in the crank case to begin with.
>
> Why not go the to the Amsoil site and read up on all kinds of things
> about oil. http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=304333
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> DIESEL AND MARINE
> MOTOR OIL
> SAE 15W-40
> Custom-Blended For Outstanding
> Performance In Today's Engines
> PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil combines the superior lubricity and performance capa-bilities
> of a premium synthetic lubricant with special rust
> and corrosion inhibitors. AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty
> Diesel and Marine Motor Oil is recommended for engines
> used in marine applications, as well as diesel engines
> used in trucks, fleets, mining, earth moving, construction
> and farm equipment. Other applications include taxi and
> local delivery fleets with gasoline or diesel engines. With its
> extended drain intervals, AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty
> Diesel and Marine Motor Oil reduces maintenance
> costs, downtime and the cost of waste oil disposal.
> Provides High Shear Stability
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil surpasses the European ACEA and North American
> SAE oil specifications for high temperature/high shear
> (HTHS) viscosity. It is significantly more shear stable than
> conventional motor oils, retaining its viscosity at tempera-tures
> and loads that break down conventional oils. AMSOIL
> Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil maintains
> an extremely protective viscosity of greater than 3.7 cP at
> 302°F (150°C) in the ASTM D-4683 High Temperature/High
> Shear Test, exceeding the test limits.
> Prevents Rust and Corrosion
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil contains special rust and corrosion-inhibiting additives
> to prevent the rusting or corrosion of iron, copper, lead and
> aluminum materials.
> Improves Fuel Economy
> The premium quality synthetic base stocks in AMSOIL
> Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil
> provide a tough lubricating film on all engine parts,
> reducing friction and fuel consumption. Reduced fuel con-sumption
> reduces exhaust emissions of carbon dioxide,
> water and particulates.
> Resists Oxidation - Reduces Engine Wear
> Conventional oils oxidize at high temperatures, causing
> sludge and deposit build-up that decrease fuel efficiency
> and contribute to corrosion and increased engine wear.
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil, with a flash point of 442°F (228°C), resists oxidation
> and thermal breakdown far better than conventional oils.
> It continues to provide maximum protection at tempera-tures
> that oxidize conventional oils. Also, the advanced
> heat transfer capabilities and high lubricity of AMSOIL
> Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil helps
> engines run cooler and reduces wear.
> Extended Drain Intervals
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil is formulated for extended drain intervals. Its unique syn-thetic
> formulation, improved detergent/dispersant capabilities,
> and long drain additive package ensure maximum engine
> protection, cleanliness and performance over extended drain
> periods. Its advanced 12 TBN formulation keeps engines in
> superb condition even when the oil is used for extended
> drain intervals.
> Provides Low Temperature Protection
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil remains fluid at temperatures as low as -47°F (-44°C).
> It circulates rapidly to provide vital lubrication and prevent
> engine wear caused by lack of oil flow. AMSOIL Synthetic
> Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil allows quicker,
> easier cold temperature starting with less engine wear.
> Reduces Oil Consumption and Emissions
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil far exceeds the NOACK Volatility Test. Many conventional
> lubricants cannot pass this requirement. Low volatility means
> less oil vapor passing into the combustion chamber. A reduc-tion
> of oil vapor means lower oil consumption and lower
> exhaust emissions. The high detergent alkalinity of AMSOIL
> Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil also
> helps reduce oil consumption.
> . API Engine Service CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, CF, SH, SJ
> . MIL-PRF-2104G, . MIL-L-21260D*
> . Caterpillar TO-2, TO-3 . Allison C-3, C-4
> . Mack EO-L, EO-L+, EO-M, EO-M+ . M.A.N. 271
> . Mercedes-Benz AG 227.1, 228.1, 228.3
> . Scania Long Drain . Volvo VDS, VDS-2
> . VW 505.00 . Cummins CES 20071, 20072, 20076
> . MTU . EMA LRG1
> *Rust Protection and Acid Neutralization Test
> "The First in Synthetics"
>
> TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
> AMSOIL Synthetic SAE 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil
> (AME)
> Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cST ..........................15.0
> (ASTM D-445)
> Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cST ............................91.2
> (ASTM D-445)
> Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270).................................172
> CCS Viscosity @ -15°C, cP (ASTM D-2602) ...........2350
> Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97) ........................-44 (-47)
> Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92) .....................228 (442)
> Four Ball Wear Test (ASTM D-4172B: 40 kg, 75......... ... .... ..
>
>
>
> .
Debbie and Roger Bess
manufacturer oil change intervals, I assume they only put in enough
additives to last around 5k miles..
One way to be SURE, is to goto that system, and do an oil analysis at an
independant lab and see the results for yourself..
"StepMaster" <milo...@milofaggot.com> wrote in message
news:a71oo5$ht7$1...@slb4.atl.mindspring.net...
fordjr
"Debbie and Roger Bess" <rnd...@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:3c955...@news1.prserv.net...
Debbie and Roger Bess
>
> 15/40 Diesel and marine oil only cost me $3.50 a qts tax, shipping,
> and handling included. But if you want to figure it at $68 that's
> close enough for government work.
Is that discount available to everyone? According to Asmoils site, the
'prefered customer price' is about %20 off, which would put the price around
$4.50 a quart.
Your advertising that Amsoil is best for everyone because it saves everyone
money.. But then you assume that everyone is getting the same price break
for the product that your getting, which you know probably isn't the case..
Also a small amount of oil consumption is normal for some vehicles.. I used
Amsoil for a year and the consumption was same as when I used dino oils..
So, you imply that 'everyone' will benifit, but the 'REAL TRUTH' is only if
they have the exact same circumstances as you..
>
> Yes I know but anyone that goes past 3000 on junk oil is nuts sense
> the additive package is gone at 800 miles. If I had to run junk oil I
> would change every 1000 miles. Ford recommends you go 5k because
> they want the product to break down. They make more off selling parts
> than they do off selling you a new car.
What research do you have that Havoline or Valvoline or the other oil's
additive packages are gone at 800 miles? Also, the type of 'break downs'
that would occur because of poor oil maintenance are of the severity that
would cause folks to buy new cars.. There are ALOT more engines out there
that have gone 200k+ miles with regular dino oil than with Amsoil without
suffering any 'breakdowns'.
Your arguement is bogus at every layer that you look at it.
a. Manufactures do not want their products to break down.
b. Even if they did, oil related failures would only cause the user to buy a
new vehicle (not parts to fix the old one), probably of a brand different
than that of the product that broke down, (again a loss for that
manufacturer).
If your engine breaks because of oil related excessive wear on main
bearings, cranks, pistons, cams etc, the result usually would end up in the
owner buying a new car rather than pay large sums of money to repair.. Your
story doesn't make sense. If they wanted to sell parts, they wouldn't do it
by trying to use poor oil..
> And Amsoil recommends you change the filter at 12,000 because they
> want to make more money off filters. You got to watch them big
> companies. I have run oil analysis on many trucks and there is no
> degrading or contamination of oil at even 35,000 miles and not
> changing the filter.
>
So, your logic is that Amsoil is this big business thats looking to make
money on filters. What if they were trying to make money by over pricing an
oil product that has little benifit to the average consumer? Isn't that also
a possibility?
I don't deny your findings with oil analysis, although 'no degradation' at
35k miles does seem a bit much. I've heard that some fleet vehicles which
don't go through alot of startup/shutdown sequences seem to be pretty easy
on engines. You didn't by chance use the Amsoil oil analysis service to get
these findings did you? You know those big businesses.
>
> Any way you do the math synthetics are cheaper than junk oil.
>
I don't deny that for some folks, using Amsoil and it extended drain
intervals would be more cost effective. However, it doesn't apply to
everyone, because the circumstances depend on your vehicle, driving
patterns, personel preferences (some folks don't want to be 'dealers' in a
pyramid schemes). Also your claims of the 'amount' saved varied greatly
from what I actually witnessed in my own experience.
I do believe that Amsoil has a great oil, and I use it's 2stroke racing oil
in my MX bikes with the confidence I'm getting the best protection I can
buy. People like yourself who spread half truths to downright lies do a
dis-service to a company that has a quality product.