1995 f150 Terrible MPG HELP!
MBIT...@goodyear.com
I can almost watch the gas gauge move.
Recent tune up. Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor(noticable
improvement in smoothness, removed previous hesitation, no more weird
RPM increase when clutch is depressed). Filters are clean. Computer was
scanned and NO error codes. No odd sounds. Seems to be somewhat lacking
in power( wasn't ever all that good anyway!) But, the gas mileage
recently just plummeted!
Please help with suggestions on where else to look(besides new car lot!)
(side note) $69 later,local Goodyear store was USELESS in helping to
evaluate problem. No surprise.
Thanks in advance.
MArtog
I did a search on this group and could not find answer to this problem.
So if this has been discussed before, please forgive me for Posting this
question/problem again................
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George Miklas
Goodyear for anything but tires, and I don't even buy tires there. The
bestyear I had with Goodyear was a badyear. Now I only buy Michelin,
Dunlop or Kelly Springfield for my trucks.
In article <92va3d$g$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,
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MBIT...@goodyear.com
George Miklas <george...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Take your truck to the local Ford dealer. I don't mess around with
> Goodyear for anything but tires, and I don't even buy tires there.
The
> bestyear I had with Goodyear was a badyear. Now I only buy Michelin,
> Dunlop or Kelly Springfield for my trucks.
>
MArtog.
nash
> 1995 F150 4.9 4WD 5 speed manual AC cruise.
> I can almost watch the gas gauge move.
> Recent tune up. Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor(noticable
> improvement in smoothness, removed previous hesitation, no more weird
> RPM increase when clutch is depressed). Filters are clean. Computer was
> scanned and NO error codes. No odd sounds. Seems to be somewhat lacking
> in power( wasn't ever all that good anyway!) But, the gas mileage
> recently just plummeted!
Have a shop run a computer scan. Make sure they don't just dump
codes. You want them to run the "wiggle test", "power balance test" to
name a few I've used before. Most likely you have a bad sensor, or bad
connection to a sensor. As long as the reading is "within the normal
range" no codes will be set.
For instance, a bad engine temp sensor could make the computer think
the truck is always cold. No codes are set as "cold" is within the
normal range of the sensor, but the truck will guzzle gas! Running
the "wiggle test" will set a code for this problem.
--
_ ___,;;;/ | Ron Nash (na...@sdsu.edu) San Diego State University
,;( )__, )~\| |
;; // '--; | Gin-N-Tonic endurance horse
' ;\ | | Luv on Fire trusty trail horse
Cliff
<MBIT...@GOODYEAR.COM> wrote in message news:92va3d$g$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
A. Mieskolainen
are tire pressures ok?
my auto hubs blew at only 30k miles on the 96 bronco...you can (or have
them) check to see if they are locked, or damaged (take the covers off and
see if you have metal fragments (don't need to jack it up)
are the exhaust manifolds much hotter than normal after running it for an
hour or so? (some glow..when the cat conv is plugged)
the catalytic conv can be checked when inspecting the O2 sensor on the
exhaust pipe; by removing the sensor and seeing how much exhaust gas is
streaming thru (or by a tailpipe emissions test)..some can knock on the cat
and hear the inside parts rattle when they have broken up-clogged the cat.
quite a few other things too could do it..but i believe the simpler and most
common things could be checked first, all iaw with the mileage you have on
it and the maintenance performed.
good luck!
<MBIT...@GOODYEAR.COM> wrote in message news:92va3d$g$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
MBIT...@goodyear.com
Tire pressure is good. I'm anal about checking it.
Truck as approx 67,000 miles. Serviced regular. Oil ALWAYS changed every
3,000 miles. Tuned up approx 15,000 miles ago. Plugs, cap, rotor,
filters all look good(I checked recently). I have not checked, the
things people have posted so far. But I am glad for the advice, and I
will!
Anything else I should be looking at?
Thanks,
Marty
Sean Conolly
who doesn't understand that the SPOUT connector must be removed before
setting the base timing. This would retard the timing by more than 10
degrees and would cause the symptoms you describe. There's no crank position
sensor so no codes are set. An alternative is if a mechanic forgot to
replace the SPOUT connector.
Check for other ignition weirdness like the rotor cap center button, making
sure the spark plug / coil wires are all seated, make sure they're not
leaking voltage to ground (with the engine running at night look under the
hood for sparks on the wires).
Hope this helps,
Sean
<MBIT...@GOODYEAR.COM> wrote in message news:92va3d$g$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
nash
Another poster mentioned a bad catalytic converter. An easy way to
test for exhaust restiction is to use a vacuum gage. Warm up the
engine. Attach the gage to a manifold vacuum line. At idle, note
the reading (typical is 19 inches). Rev the engine to a fast idle,
about 2,000 RPMs. Check the reading - it should be a few inches
higher, say 21 inches. If the reading is lower than the idle reading,
the exhaust is resticted.
MBIT...@goodyear.com
nash <na...@rohan.sdsu.edu> wrote:
>
> Another poster mentioned a bad catalytic converter. An easy way to
> test for exhaust restiction is to use a vacuum gage. Warm up the
> engine. Attach the gage to a manifold vacuum line. At idle, note
> the reading (typical is 19 inches). Rev the engine to a fast idle,
> about 2,000 RPMs. Check the reading - it should be a few inches
> higher, say 21 inches. If the reading is lower than the idle reading,
> the exhaust is resticted.
>
Talked to the Ford dealer this morning(made an Appt). Service mgr there
says it can't be a restricted Cat Converter. If it was it wouldn't burn
more gas cause it wouldn't be able to move any air either. Plus I would
notice a BIG loss of performance. So far it just feels like it's always
running cold as far as power, even thoe the gauge shows it's warming up
to normal. Also, the rolling resistance seems the same as always, so I
don't think it's a drive line problem. As someone suggested earlier, a
bad sensor would be my guess. But what do I know!!! Otherwise I wouldn't
be here asking for help!
Thanks again people,
MArtog
R. Wink
Just for your information..
I bought a 1999 F150 12/15/99 with the 5.4 engine. Since 1/1/00, 8,111 miles overall average is
12.99 MPG. Don't know your engine size but Fords trucks don't get gas mileage. It could be that
you're just getting what you should. I complained to this group earlier and was told "It's the
nature of the beast. Live with it."
R. Wink
jetski junkies
using a Goodyear.com E-mail.
Have you checked the catalytic converter? Even a partial clog will make it a
dog, and drink gas.
Perry
MBIT...@goodyear.com
jetski junkies <Perr...@Netcondom.com> wrote:
> It's funny you say the Goodyear store didn't know jack, and your
posting
> using a Goodyear.com E-mail.
>
why I went to a Goodyear store. We get a discount ya know:>)
But, they still didn't know jack. I only work here, I don't run the
place. I'd have to get rid of a few 'numbnuts' sitting in some big
offices. Oh well, wish in one hand and sh-t in the other and see which
one fills up faster.............
MArtog
Edward Sylverne
opening, or if the valve is opening but the gas passage is clogged, you will
really suck fuel, and the computer won't see it as an error
Sean Conolly
computer. If it doesn't see that warm up it will never get out of "cold
start" mode. When it's in this mode it doesn't pay attention to the O2
sensor, since that won't read properly until the engine warms up. Just
another idea.
Sean
<MBIT...@GOODYEAR.COM> wrote in message news:932esi$mlp$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
JonS999
it cost to get your throttle position sensor replaced? Mine is bad also.
-Jon
MBIT...@goodyear.com
jon...@aol.com (JonS999) wrote:
> I have no idea what is causing your gas problem, but could you tell me
how much
> it cost to get your throttle position sensor replaced? Mine is bad
also.
>
unplug the wire harness. Couldn't be easier. Ya just need the code off
the sensor before ya go to the parts store.
MArtog
