Oil cooler line leaking at radiator

[arja...@gmail.com]

I have a 1999 Suburban K1500 (5.7 liter Vortec) with 130,000 miles
that has developed a leak around the upper oil cooler line fitting
where it enters the radiator on the driver's side. A mechanic replaced
the fitting and line claiming the the line had a pinhole in it but it
is still leaking. Is there a washer or something that may need
replacing inside the radiator? If so, is this an easy fix (just remove
the fitting, replace the washer, replace the fitting and refill with
coolant)? Or does the radiator need removed and/or replaced?

Thanks,
Arjay

[AWN]

Arjay,

I've been down this same road before and it's a pretty easy fix unless the
actual bung for the cooler line is broken internally. There are 2 types of
o rings designed for these lines (one I believe is flatter than the other).
I didn't chance it with my 95 so I bought both o rings just in case. I
didn't pay attention to torque ratings on the nut but as I recall it needs
to be good and tight. A T wrench likely would have been a safer bet but I
was lazy and anxious. Mine has been leak free for over a year now since I
replaced the o ring. I tried to 'fix' it with gasket seal, etc and nothing
seemed to last like the proper OEM o ring. I would think the mech would fix
this as it seems like he missed the boat the first time round. That's just
my opinion and it's not worth anything more than you take it as...

Good luck.
Andrew.

On 1/2/08 2:17 PM, in article
e484069d-88ca-4150...@1g2000hsl.googlegroups.com,

[Steve W.]

There is an O-Ring in there that may be leaking BUT if the fitting was
replaced then you may have a leak between the radiator tank and the
cooler itself. Clean it off VERY well. Then dust it with a bit of baby
powder. Start the engine and look for the spot where the powder gets
oily. Should show you if the leak is the fitting or the cooler itself.
If it's the cooler nut leaking then you might find a good radiator shop
that would be willing to repair it. But the usual option is to pull the
radiator and replace it.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Life is not like a box of chocolates
it's more like a jar of jalapenos-
what you do today could burn your ass tomorrow!

[arja...@gmail.com]

Thanks, Andrew. Is that o-ring external to the radiator or does it go
on the inside of the radiator?

Arjay

On Jan 2, 3:28 pm, AWN <spamdoc...@spamnomore.stopit> wrote:
> Arjay,
>
> I've been down this same road before and it's a pretty easy fix unless the
> actual bung for the cooler line is broken internally. There are 2 types of
> o rings designed for these lines (one I believe is flatter than the other).
> I didn't chance it with my 95 so I bought both o rings just in case. I
> didn't pay attention to torque ratings on the nut but as I recall it needs
> to be good and tight. A T wrench likely would have been a safer bet but I
> was lazy and anxious. Mine has been leak free for over a year now since I
> replaced the o ring. I tried to 'fix' it with gasket seal, etc and nothing
> seemed to last like the proper OEM o ring. I would think the mech would fix
> this as it seems like he missed the boat the first time round. That's just
> my opinion and it's not worth anything more than you take it as...
>
> Good luck.
> Andrew.
>
> On 1/2/08 2:17 PM, in article

> e484069d-88ca-4150-86c7-f6ea1738d...@1g2000hsl.googlegroups.com,

[glor...@gmail.com]

That O ring is replaced by loosening and pulling back the line from the radiato, and will be found on the end of the line. Replace it, and reinstall the line back onto the radiator.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

VERY common problem on GM vehicles is the line rusts inside the
crimped fitting that attaches the rubber to the hard line, the crimp
swells, and the joint leaks. Sometimes you can make up a new line
using the old hard-line and new hose with clamps, but generally
easier, although more expensive, to get ready made replacement lines.

Some Fords suffer from the same malady