98 Blazer starting problems

[Stormin Mormon]

Some days, my Blazer gives me trouble starting.
usually only first thing in the morning.

Mechanic says it sounds like it's draining back,
and I should cycle the key (my comment: like
glow plugs for a diesel).

Sometimes that helps, and some times it takes
eight or ten or more tries to start.

What might be wrong?

--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

[SteveF]

On 1/9/2014 11:55 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Some days, my Blazer gives me trouble starting.
> usually only first thing in the morning.
>
> Mechanic says it sounds like it's draining back,
> and I should cycle the key (my comment: like
> glow plugs for a diesel).
>
> Sometimes that helps, and some times it takes
> eight or ten or more tries to start.
>
> What might be wrong?
>

Fuel pump issue?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 09 Jan 2014 12:55:56 -0500, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>Some days, my Blazer gives me trouble starting.
>usually only first thing in the morning.
>
>Mechanic says it sounds like it's draining back,
>and I should cycle the key (my comment: like
>glow plugs for a diesel).
>
>Sometimes that helps, and some times it takes
>eight or ten or more tries to start.
>
>What might be wrong?

FIRST of all, determine if it IS a fuel pressure drainback problem.
Dead easy. take the cap off the schrader valve on the fuel rail and
push in on the valve pin. If it sprays fuel it is NOT a drainback
problem. If it doesn't, cycle once and recheck. If you have pressure
now, start looking somewhere else for your problem.

Do you have spark on first crank?? - pull wire off of one plug and
check. Spark bright blue and snapping? Look elsewhere. If not - check
ignition. When were the plugs/wires last changed? Is this a
distributor engine or a coil pack engine??

If you squirt half an ounch of gas down the intake, hold the throttle
half open, and crank, does it start??? If so it is a fuel problem.
Could be a bad engine temp or intake air temp sensor telling the
computer the engine is warm when it is not.

[Stormin Mormon]

My mechanic doesn't think it's fuel pump. When it
starts, it runs with pretty much full power. He
thinks when they go bad, the engine doesn't rev
properly.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 1/9/2014 3:44 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> FIRST of all, determine if it IS a fuel pressure drainback problem.
> Dead easy. take the cap off the schrader valve on the fuel rail and
> push in on the valve pin. If it sprays fuel it is NOT a drainback
> problem. If it doesn't, cycle once and recheck. If you have pressure
> now, start looking somewhere else for your problem.

SM: I may try that.

>
> Do you have spark on first crank?? - pull wire off of one plug and
> check. Spark bright blue and snapping? Look elsewhere. If not - check
> ignition.

SM: That's a team sport. My arms are too short.

When were the plugs/wires last changed?

SM: Don't know. I got the truck used.

Is this a
> distributor engine or a coil pack engine??

SM: Coil on passenger side, next to module. Right next to (what used to
be called) carburetor. Distributor cap has four wires one side, three on
the other side.

>
> If you squirt half an ounch of gas down the intake, hold the throttle
> half open, and crank, does it start???

SM: When it refused to start the other day, ether didn't do it.

If so it is a fuel problem.
> Could be a bad engine temp or intake air temp sensor telling the
> computer the engine is warm when it is not.
>

SM: You know, I'd not thought of that. Thank you.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

If the check valve in the fuelpump goes bad, it will drain the lines
making starting difficult, and will still run perfectly after it
starts - with full power. Another thing that can cause pressure
drain-back is a bad FPR (fuel pressure regulator) which lets the
pressure bleed off through the return line. This will USUALLY show up
as a slightly lower than normal running fuel pressure, but not always
- and usually not enough to be readilly noticeable. Clamping off the
return line immediately after shutting off the engine can eliminate
this as a cause. Also check the vac hose connected to the regulator -
if there is gas in it with the engine just shut off, you have a bad
FPR. If it looses pressure without clamping the line, and does not
with the line clamped, the FPR is leaking.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

If ether doesn't start it, it is NOT a fuel problem and not a temp
sensor problem, most likely. How long have you owned it??? I'm betting
on bad plugs/wires Won't start cold and damp - run's reasonably well
after starting. Likely costing you extra fuel as well. With the
engine running, run your bare hands over the plug wires. If you feel
ANY shock, the wires need replacing - yesterday. Also make sure the
coil tower and the cap are CLEAN. Would not hurt to replace cap and
rotor while you are at it. The whole job will cost you about the
equivalent of a tow - - - - -

[Stormin Mormon]

On 1/9/2014 8:01 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> If the check valve in the fuelpump goes bad, it will drain the lines
> making starting difficult, and will still run perfectly after it
> starts - with full power. Another thing that can cause pressure
> drain-back is a bad FPR (fuel pressure regulator) which lets the
> pressure bleed off through the return line. This will USUALLY show up
> as a slightly lower than normal running fuel pressure, but not always
> - and usually not enough to be readilly noticeable. Clamping off the
> return line immediately after shutting off the engine can eliminate
> this as a cause. Also check the vac hose connected to the regulator -
> if there is gas in it with the engine just shut off, you have a bad
> FPR. If it looses pressure without clamping the line, and does not
> with the line clamped, the FPR is leaking.

Yesterday, I pulled a couple relays out of the
fuse box, and put some dielectric grease on
the prongs. Today, the truck started better,
but not right up immediately. I'm going to give
it a couple days and see if things are better.

I've had it for couple years, and not had a
tune up. The power is low, and it's a bit
sluggish. I'd dare to guess it needs cap,
rotor, wires, plugs. That's going to wait a
while till warmer weather, and more money.

[SteveF]

On 1/9/2014 3:20 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

>
> My mechanic doesn't think it's fuel pump. When it
> starts, it runs with pretty much full power. He
> thinks when they go bad, the engine doesn't rev
> properly.
>

Borrow his pressure gauge and check for yourself.:-)

[Stormin Mormon]

Buy one at Harbor Freight with 25% coupon?

Yesterday, I pulled the relays out of the fuse
box, greased the prongs with dielectric grease,
and replaced. Truck starts some better, this
morning.

[SteveF]

On 1/10/2014 8:05 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 1/10/2014 8:01 PM, SteveF wrote:
>> On 1/9/2014 3:20 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> My mechanic doesn't think it's fuel pump. When it
>>> starts, it runs with pretty much full power. He
>>> thinks when they go bad, the engine doesn't rev
>>> properly.
>>>
>>
>> Borrow his pressure gauge and check for yourself.:-)
>>
>>
> Buy one at Harbor Freight with 25% coupon?

Possibly. I do not know if they may be used for anything
else. So, spend at your own risk. If you have access to
one, borrow it.

>
> Yesterday, I pulled the relays out of the fuse
> box, greased the prongs with dielectric grease,
> and replaced. Truck starts some better, this
> morning.

You might want to wait for SteveW to chime in. I know others
have mentioned testing the fuel rail via schrader valve. One
thing is to find the fuse for the fuel pump and pull it while
the engine is running. Let the engine run till it dies. Turn
off the key, replace fuse, then depress the schrader valve.
After you are assured that the pressure has been released, cycle
the ignition on and off three times, leaving ignition on (not
in starting position) for around 10 seconds each time. Depress
the schrader valve again. There should be a pretty good hiss/
spray of atomised fuel coming out. Be careful, little flame
thrower there. :-)

Wait until morning then cycle the ignition three times, again, then
try starting the engine. Sometimes the engine may run fine while
the pump is not putting out enough pressure, as Clare stated (I
believe), but is a pain to start since the engine needs more
fuel. That's why I recommend trying to find a pressure guage.
Hell, drive to an Autozone and use one of theirs in the parking
lot. I think 45PSI is the min, but I really could not say.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Since he obviously doesn't know how to use it.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 21:05:22 -0500, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On 1/10/2014 8:01 PM, SteveF wrote:
>> On 1/9/2014 3:20 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> My mechanic doesn't think it's fuel pump. When it
>>> starts, it runs with pretty much full power. He
>>> thinks when they go bad, the engine doesn't rev
>>> properly.
>>>
>>
>> Borrow his pressure gauge and check for yourself.:-)
>>
>>
>Buy one at Harbor Freight with 25% coupon?
>
>Yesterday, I pulled the relays out of the fuse
>box, greased the prongs with dielectric grease,
>and replaced. Truck starts some better, this
>morning.

How much warmer is it this morning?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Default


Fuel pressure and leakdown must be checked with the engine off. On
1998 and newer, in the underhood fuse panel there is a vacant terminal
next to the fuel pump relay. This is the "fuel pump prime terminal"
and it goes directly to the fuel pump. Connect a jumper wire from
battery positive to the terminal. After the fuel pressure stabilizes,
it must be 60psi to 66psi. Then remove the jumper wire and the fuel
pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes. If it fails
either or both parts of the test, there is a problem with fuel
delivery and further testing is required to pinpoint the problem. If
it drops too fast, clamp off the return line when you shut off the
pump and see if it drops more slowly. If so, you have a bad FPR. If
not, you have a bad check valve in the pump (or a leaky fuel pressure
line, or a leaking injector, or a leak somewhere else in the high
pressure side of the system (like a leaky diaphragm in the FPR - which
will show up as gasoline in the manifold vacuum sense hose on the
FPR).

Stormy needs to learn how to diagnose. I've done it for a living for
over 45 years and I'm pretty good at it.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 1/10/2014 11:05 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>
>> Borrow his pressure gauge and check for yourself.:-)
>>
> Since he obviously doesn't know how to use it.
>

It's not good manners to flame someone who
isn't here, you've not met, and you don't really
know his abilities.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 1/10/2014 11:05 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

> On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 21:05:22 -0500, Stormin Mormon
>>

>> Yesterday, I pulled the relays out of the fuse
>> box, greased the prongs with dielectric grease,
>> and replaced. Truck starts some better, this
>> morning.
> How much warmer is it this morning?
>

About twenty degrees, F.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 12:58:35 -0500, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On 1/10/2014 11:05 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>>
>>> Borrow his pressure gauge and check for yourself.:-)
>>>
>> Since he obviously doesn't know how to use it.
>>
>
>It's not good manners to flame someone who
>isn't here, you've not met, and you don't really
>know his abilities.

Stormy - if he knew how to use it he would be able to check it and
tell you for certain if it is a fuel pressure problem. -or have you
not been able to start the vehicle and take it in so he is just
guessing?
Regardless - you DO need to test it - follow the troubleshooting info
I have given and get back to me.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 12:59:07 -0500, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On 1/10/2014 11:05 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 21:05:22 -0500, Stormin Mormon
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I pulled the relays out of the fuse
>>> box, greased the prongs with dielectric grease,
>>> and replaced. Truck starts some better, this
>>> morning.
>> How much warmer is it this morning?
>>
>About twenty degrees, F.

Exactly - which may be why it starts better now. If you have a
crystal of ice stuck in the check valve or the FPR it won't start very
well. - among a lot of other variables. Start the process of
elimination. Eliminate either what is working or what is not from your
list, one at a time until the problem is nailed down.

2 years since the plugs have been changed? Start there - they will
need changing anyway if you keep the vehicle - but check the cables
for leakage first.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 1/11/2014 3:18 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> Regardless - you DO need to test it - follow the troubleshooting info
> I have given and get back to me.
>

==========================

> 2 years since the plugs have been changed? Start there - they will
> need changing anyway if you keep the vehicle - but check the cables
> for leakage first.
>

You don't have the authority to give me
orders.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 18:26:13 -0500, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On 1/11/2014 3:18 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> Regardless - you DO need to test it - follow the troubleshooting info
>> I have given and get back to me.
>>
>==========================
> > 2 years since the plugs have been changed? Start there - they will
> > need changing anyway if you keep the vehicle - but check the cables
> > for leakage first.
> >
>
>You don't have the authority to give me
>orders.

Not orders, stormy - just suggestions. You want to fix the Blazer so
it starts reliably. Your perogotive to learn from my experience or
not. I can guarantee I could pin down where the problem is on that
vehicle within 20 minutes of arriving on your doorstep, assuming the
vehicle was available.

[SteveF]

On 1/11/2014 9:15 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

>> You don't have the authority to give me
>> orders.
> Not orders, stormy - just suggestions. You want to fix the Blazer so
> it starts reliably. Your perogotive to learn from my experience or
> not. I can guarantee I could pin down where the problem is on that
> vehicle within 20 minutes of arriving on your doorstep, assuming the
> vehicle was available.
>

Clare, do not believe him. He likes being ordered around. You should
see his dominatrix! :-)

[Steve W.]

>> On 1/9/2014 3:20 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>>
>>> My mechanic doesn't think it's fuel pump. When it
>>> starts, it runs with pretty much full power. He
>>> thinks when they go bad, the engine doesn't rev
>>> properly.

--- Fuel System Problems ----

Fuel pump - Test, connect up gauge and watch it when you turn on the
key, Gauge HAS to hit 55psi minimum, higher (up to 65 psi is better).
Now start the engine, fuel pressure should stay the same, SNAP the
throttle, Pressure should show a momentary change due the the change in
vacuum.

It may not be the PUMP itself. BUT the check valve that stops the fuel
from draining back is part of the pump, it's on the outlet side of the
pump and is designed to
A - hold pressure in the system so the vehicle starts when hot (the
pressure in the system helps prevent vapor lock in the injection system)
B - works with the regulator in the engine to control fuel pressure.

Common symptoms of failure - long crank times, poor starting.

It could be the pressure regulator, that is inside the intake on the
injector unit itself. It maintains fuel pressure (55psi MIN. required
for the system to operate properly) in the system and uses vacuum inside
the intake to control the pressure and volume to the CPI unit based on
engine load.

Common symptoms of failure - long crank times, poor starting, lower fuel
mileage, smell of gas from the intake.

It could be a problem with the "fuel nut assembly" (AKA the fuel lines
just inside the intake on the left side of the engine) they are known
for cracking from heat/vibration.

Common symptoms of failure - long crank times, poor starting, lower fuel
mileage, smell of gas from the intake.

All of the above are KNOWN issues with the fuel system on the 4.3
All can be tested with 2 pairs of vice grips and a fuel pressure gauge.

Connect gauge, turn key on, watch gauge. Fuel pressure should jump up
almost instantly to 55-65 psi and stay there. (This is because the
initial key on triggers the ECM to turn the fuel pump on for 3 - 4
seconds. This is to prime the rail because minor leakage in the system
components is normal and the pressure may only be 30-40 psi. after
setting overnight.)

If the gauge jumps up fast and stays there with LESS than a 10psi drop
over 5 minutes the above parts are OK and the problem is elsewhere.


More likely is the pressure will drop very fast, that signals a leak in
the system.

So you take the vice grips and go under the vehicle. (The next steps
depend on which fuel lines you have, The earlier trucks had metal tanks
and rubber flex lines, later trucks have plastic flex lines and the last
ones have plastic tanks and plastic flex lines)

There will be three lines, One is pressurized fuel to the engine, one is
fuel return to the tank and the last is a vacuum line (works with the
EVAP system).

Look them over for ANY leakage. (especially right at the kick-up in the
frame right in front of the rear wheel on the drivers side. The fuel
lines and rear brake line are there and it collects a LOT of crap and
rots the lines.)

You need the pressurized line first.
Have a helper turn the key on, as soon as the pressure builds clamp off
the pressure line. Watch the gauge. IF the gauge stays where it was when
you clamped the line,(with no more than a 10psi drop in 5 minutes) the
leak is the valve in the pump. (Usually requires pump module replacement
as nobody makes a replacement valve, the original is molded in the top
of the module. Sometimes it is rust/dirt blocking it open and you can
clean it.)

Still leaking down - Release clamp, turn key on again, when pressure
builds clamp off both the pressure and return lines. Watch the gauge.

Pressure holds with NO drop - Pressure regulator is failing internally
and leaking fuel back to the tank. Replace pressure regulator. (inside
the intake manifold)

Pressure still drops (even a small amount of drop is bad)- Either the
pressure regulator, spider unit or the lines are leaking inside the
intake. All require the intake to be opened to replace the parts. IF you
are going in there plan to replace the FPR and the lines at a minimum.
They may be OK now but they WILL fail. The new replacements are better
parts.


http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm - Has very good prices and top
notch parts.

I usually opt for the upgrade to the "mini-injector" unit from the stock
CPI unit, it's a direct bolt in (in most cases, call them and they will
make sure) and greatly improves the system.

The above is based on multiple repairs to these systems by myself, and a
LOT of discussions with other techs and mechanics about this system and
improvements that are possible. (It applies to ALL of the CPI equipped
GM engines both V6 and V8)

--
Steve W.

[Steve W.]

Yep, always amazed at people who think 45-50 psi is good on these.

--
Steve W.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 1/12/2014 10:19 AM, SteveF wrote:
>
> Clare, do not believe him. He likes being ordered around. You should
> see his dominatrix! :-)

After an hour of begging, I got permission
to tell you that's not true.

[Stormin Mormon]

Thank you. I'll save this post, in case it's
needed. For now, the truck is doing reasonably
well.

[Stormin Mormon]

Jan 15, 2014

Chevrolet Tradesman, with 350 engine (I think it's a 350). Been giving
me starting trouble, for last year or so. More so when it's wet.

Latest "hurrah" was when I changed the distributor cap and rotor, and
started nicely after that. Whew, got that one finally.

Today, needed the van for a service call. It almost started, but not
quite. Tried the starter several times.

Took the other car to the call, and managed to git r dun.

Came back and tried a bunch of things. What seemed to help was to spray
the fuel injector sprayers with some trichlor degreaser. I couldn't find
my toluene carb cleaner spray.

Starts a lot better, now. Hope that does it. Thanks to all here, who
offered ideas.

[NotMe]

"Stormin Mormon" <cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:OoBzu.191916$m_6.1...@fx25.iad...

> Some days, my Blazer gives me trouble starting.
> usually only first thing in the morning.
>
> Mechanic says it sounds like it's draining back,
> and I should cycle the key (my comment: like
> glow plugs for a diesel).
>
> Sometimes that helps, and some times it takes
> eight or ten or more tries to start.
>
> What might be wrong?
>

Could be the fuel pump is intermittent. Our 95 gave the granddaughter a bit
of trouble. She wisely drove straight home where fuel pump dies in the drive
way. We were able to get it going again but not for long. New pump all ok.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 1/15/2014 3:58 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Jan 15, 2014
>
> Chevrolet Tradesman, with 350 engine (I think it's a 350). Been giving
> me starting trouble, for last year or so. More so when it's wet.
>
> Latest "hurrah" was when I changed the distributor cap and rotor, and
> started nicely after that. Whew, got that one finally.
>

May 19, 2015
Just for grins and giggles, decided to look through
my reciepts and see when I replaced the spark plug
wires. Could not find any such reciept. Went to the
store and bought a set of wires, plans to install them
tomorrow when it's daylight and a bit warmer. Could
have sworn I changed the spark wires last night.

Plans tomorrow to run the engine and water down the
spark wires, see if that kills the motor. This hit
and miss bit of throwing parts at it nonsense is no
good.


-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 5/19/2015 7:13 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Plans tomorrow to run the engine and water down the
> spark wires, see if that kills the motor. This hit
> and miss bit of throwing parts at it nonsense is no
> good.
>

Need the van for a service call. Skip the wet
wires step. Change the wires. The two front
on driver side were nearly impossible to reach,
so I left em. Six out of eight is better than
zero out of eight. See when it rains, next.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Your luck it will be the 2 you didn't change crossfiring causing your
hard start.. Next sunny day when you have a bit of spare time, change
them. I'd capitalize that but I don't want to hurt your sensitive
little ears. If you don't have any spare time, make some.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 5/20/2015 3:38 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> On Wed, 20 May 2015 12:11:45 -0400, Stormin Mormon

>> Need the van for a service call. Skip the wet
>> wires step. Change the wires. The two front
>> on driver side were nearly impossible to reach,
>> so I left em. Six out of eight is better than
>> zero out of eight. See when it rains, next.
>>

> Your luck it will be the 2 you didn't change crossfiring causing your
> hard start.. Next sunny day when you have a bit of spare time, change
> them. I'd capitalize that but I don't want to hurt your sensitive
> little ears. If you don't have any spare time, make some.
>

Heard you about luck. The reason I didn't change
cylinders 1 and 3, is that there is nearly no
room to work. Under the brake cylinder, steering
wheel, and a bracket of some kind. There is a
chance I could have reached in, but the other six
were miserable. It's not a question of time. It's
a question of being able to reach them, and not
wanting to cut my hands.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

It's your truck. Do as you like, but don't bother asking why it
doesn't start or misfires next time. Take the time to replace them
yourself or pay someone who can. I've replaced many of them. Not
simple, but definitely not rocket science. Do it with the engine cold,
of course.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 5/21/2015 10:01 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> It's your truck. Do as you like, but don't bother asking why it
> doesn't start or misfires next time. Take the time to replace them
> yourself or pay someone who can. I've replaced many of them. Not
> simple, but definitely not rocket science. Do it with the engine cold,
> of course.
>

If I had a choice of capital words, or bossy
and commanding, I'd take capital letters.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 5/22/2015 7:10 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 5/21/2015 10:01 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> It's your truck. Do as you like, but don't bother asking why it
>> doesn't start or misfires next time. Take the time to replace them
>> yourself or pay someone who can. I've replaced many of them. Not
>> simple, but definitely not rocket science. Do it with the engine cold,
>> of course.
>>
>
> If I had a choice of capital words, or bossy
> and commanding, I'd take capital letters.
>

Monday June 01, 2015

Well, you might just get the last laugh.

Rained on Saturday and Sunday. Today I
tried to start the van, it behaved totally
the same as before the six wire service.

I dragged out a battery booster 50 amp, which
did start the vehicle after about five tries.
Each try, wait 60 seconds (by wrist watch) to
let it charge. Makes me wonder if I have a weak
battery, or slow starter?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

I'd put money on a slow owner, myself!!

[Stormin Mormon]

On 6/1/2015 12:48 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> On Mon, 01 Jun 2015 11:47:09 -0400, Stormin Mormon

>> I dragged out a battery booster 50 amp, which
>> did start the vehicle after about five tries.
>> Each try, wait 60 seconds (by wrist watch) to
>> let it charge. Makes me wonder if I have a weak
>> battery, or slow starter?
>>

> I'd put money on a slow owner, myself!!
>

That really adds intelligence to the
conversation.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

If the bad wires are crossfiring it makes the engine turn over a LOT
harder than if the wires are good and firing where they are supposed
to. Did you do a voltage test when cranking? How about a starter
current draw test?. Not hard to tell if you have a battery problem, or
a starter problem.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 6/1/2015 8:58 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> If the bad wires are crossfiring it makes the engine turn over a LOT
> harder than if the wires are good and firing where they are supposed
> to. Did you do a voltage test when cranking? How about a starter
> current draw test?. Not hard to tell if you have a battery problem, or
> a starter problem.
>

Sunday June 28, 2015

I could check voltage, but don't have the DC ammeter.

Saturday I drove the Blazer, to a service call,
and it rained all day. Sunday the Blazer won't
start, but the van will. Took the van to church,
home, dinner, and an emergency service call.

Supposed to be warmer and drier tomorrow, hope
the Blazer dries out enough to start.

[Stormin Mormon]

Rained, Saturday. Blazer runs fine.
Sunday, cool and humid. Blazer won't start.
Monday, taking the time to see if I can fix the
Blazer.

Distributer cap and rotor. No joy.
Remove all four multi pin plugs off
computer, spray with WD-40.
Ignition module (next to coil). No joy.
Replace ignition coil. No joy.
Replace crank case position sensor. No joy.

No spark at center coil wire (using my old
tester from when I did lawn mower repair).

What else might be wrong? Distributer pickup
coil? Some thing else?

--

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Mon, 29 Jun 2015 20:35:52 -0400, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>Rained, Saturday. Blazer runs fine.
>Sunday, cool and humid. Blazer won't start.
>Monday, taking the time to see if I can fix the
>Blazer.
>
>Distributer cap and rotor. No joy.
>Remove all four multi pin plugs off
>computer, spray with WD-40.
>Ignition module (next to coil). No joy.
>Replace ignition coil. No joy.
>Replace crank case position sensor. No joy.
>
>No spark at center coil wire (using my old
>tester from when I did lawn mower repair).
>
>What else might be wrong? Distributer pickup
>coil? Some thing else?

First things first - is there power to the positive side of the
coil??? If not, find out why.

If you have power to the coil, the only other possibilities are module
or pickup coil (or both, A bad pickup coil can cause the module to
fail prematurely.), the crankshaft sensor, or wiring.
Failure of the crankshaft position sensor is a very common problem
on the Blazer 4.3L engine and so I would troubleshoot that first. It
has a 3-wire connector, a green 12 volt power wire, a gray ground wire
(center wire), and a beige signal wire (the wire closest to the
mounting bracket bolt) which sends a 5 volt pulse signal to the PCM to
activate ignition spark. You must leave it connected to test it for a
pulse signal. Use a multimeter set to DC volts and pierce the beige
signal wire (the wire closest to the mounting bracket bolt) with the
multimeter red lead and touch the multimeter black lead to a good
ground and then either have someone crank the engine or turn the
engine by hand with the ignition switch in the ON position. If the
crankshaft sensor is working the beige signal wire should produce an
on/off 5 volt pulse> If there is no 5 volt pulse you should unplug the
crankshaft position sensor connector and with the ignition switch
turned to the ON position and the multimeter set to DC volts, probe
the green wire connection on the plug with the multimeter red lead and
touch the multimeter black lead to a good ground to see if the
crankshaft position sensor is getting 12 volt power and then switch
the multimeter to ohms and do the same at the gray wire connection on
the plug to see if the crankshaft sensor is getting a good ground. If
it is getting 12 volt power from the green wire and it is getting a
good ground from the gray wire but it is not producing an on/off 5
volt pulse then it is defective. If the crankshaft sensor fails
intermittently the check engine light will come on and the engine will
continue to run but if it fails completely the engine will quit
running and will not restart and sudden complete failure of the
crankshaft position sensor is common on that Blazer 4.3L engine.

My suspicion is you don't have 12 volts at either the coil or the
crank sensor.

If you have 12 volts at the coil AND get a pulse from the crank
sensor, the module or module wiring is suspect.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 6/29/2015 9:31 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> First things first - is there power to the positive side of the
> coil??? If not, find out why.
>

CY: Just checked. With key on, both ignition module and ignition coil
have 12 volt power.

> If you have power to the coil, the only other possibilities are module
> or pickup coil

CY: I did have failure a week or so ago, and a new ignition module did
the job. On this engine, the module is on the metal frame that holds the
ignition coil. Yesterday, I tried two other modules. I also tried
another ignition coil.

(or both, A bad pickup coil can cause the module to
> fail prematurely.), the crankshaft sensor, or wiring.

CY: Last thing yesterday was to replace the crankcase sensor, and that
didn't help. Wonder if I have a bad pickup coil, which has killed a
module or two?

CY: The sensor plug is coated in grease, and I don't have a helper.
Sorry, unable to perform this test.

>
> My suspicion is you don't have 12 volts at either the coil or the
> crank sensor.

CY: Not sure about the 12 volts at crank sensor.

>
> If you have 12 volts at the coil AND get a pulse from the crank
> sensor, the module or module wiring is suspect.
>

CY: Could be....

[Stormin Mormon]

On 6/29/2015 8:35 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Rained, Saturday. Blazer runs fine.
> Sunday, cool and humid. Blazer won't start.
> Monday, taking the time to see if I can fix the
> Blazer.
>
> Distributer cap and rotor. No joy.
> Remove all four multi pin plugs off
> computer, spray with WD-40.
> Ignition module (next to coil). No joy.
> Replace ignition coil. No joy.
> Replace crank case position sensor. No joy.
>
> No spark at center coil wire (using my old
> tester from when I did lawn mower repair).
>
> What else might be wrong? Distributer pickup
> coil? Some thing else?
>

Had the truck towed to a garage. The fellow found
the ignition coil had gone bad, and was eating
modules. He put on a coil and module from another
engine, and it runs again.

I did try a different coil, but by that time I'd fried
all the ignition modules I had on hand. Such is
the breaks.

--

[Stormin Mormon]

On 6/28/2015 7:43 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 6/1/2015 8:58 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> If the bad wires are crossfiring it makes the engine turn over a LOT
>> harder than if the wires are good and firing where they are supposed
>> to. Did you do a voltage test when cranking? How about a starter
>> current draw test?. Not hard to tell if you have a battery problem, or
>> a starter problem.
>>
>
> Sunday June 28, 2015
>
> I could check voltage, but don't have the DC ammeter.
>

Thursday Oct 08, 2015

About seven weeks ago, I bought spark plugs and planned
to put them in with the help of my neighbor, Steve, who
is a retired mechanic.

Five weeks ago, today, I was going down the road and
the van engine suddenly quit. I rolled off to a safe
place, and tried the starter. It would not restart.
I tried a new ignition module. My enighbor Steve and
I tried a distributor pickup coil. No joy.

A friend and I pulled the van to a repair agarage,
who had it for about two weks. No joy.

Paid for a flatbed tow to yet anothr garage, who had
it about a week and found the ignition coil had gone
bad. By this time I was shopping for replacement
vehicle.

Wednesday I'm on the way home from looking at a van for
sale.

Garage two called, van is fixed and ready to go. Me: "It
starts, stops, and runs?" Yep. I got there with a ride,
and the van didn't start. The mechanic got it going,
said it was flooded, and I ought to put new spark
plugs in.

Got the van home. About an hour later, I had a service
call come in. Yippee, take the van. But the van would
not start. Take the Blazer. Call Steve, and arrange
to have him change the spark plugs tomorrow AM.

So, it's morning. I pull the motor cover. The first
two sparks, 6 and 8, didn't look "too bad", and so I
changed em out. The next couple were hard to reach,
but I got em. Those were 5 and 7. By this time I am
getting the hang of it, so I went after 2 and 4. As
GM mechanics know, 1 and 3 are under the master brake
cylinder. Finally I tried them from laying on the
ground, working blind by feel. That worked out OK
after a long while.

And the van starts like it WANTS to run. I took it
to a service call, and it did good. Surges a bit,
might have a bad vacuum hose. Get that some day,
or other.

No need to transfer registration. No week of moving
tools from one vehicle to another. Might get better
mileage. And need to replace all the vacuum hoses,
some day soon.

[Stormin Mormon]

Thursday October 08, 2015

Friday a week ago, the fuel pump went intermittent.

Monday got a used fuel pump. Steve and I spent the
day installing it, only to find it's got the different
plug and won't work.

Tuesday, track down a plug. Get that going, finally.

Wednesday take the Blazer on a service call. Coming
out of store, heading home. Took four tries to get
the engine to start.

Good thing I've found another one, and have plans to
trade this old machine in, one days next week.

Wish me luck! Hope the Blazer lasts that long.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 10/8/2015 7:07 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Thursday October 08, 2015
>
> Friday a week ago, the fuel pump went intermittent.
>
> Monday got a used fuel pump. Steve and I spent the
> day installing it, only to find it's got the different
> plug and won't work.
>
> Tuesday, track down a plug. Get that going, finally.
>
> Wednesday take the Blazer on a service call. Coming
> out of store, heading home. Took four tries to get
> the engine to start.
>
> Good thing I've found another one, and have plans to
> trade this old machine in, one days next week.
>
> Wish me luck! Hope the Blazer lasts that long.
>

Thanks for the wishes of luck. I did limp the
old rusty machine to a friend's house in South
Carolina. Went the next day to look at another
truck. Ended up buying one of the same year,
model, package, color, etc. The replacement needs
a lot of work, and will be posting a bit about
that, over the next few weeks.

Wipers, radio, stinks like cigarettes, door panels
aren't clipped on, and totally needs an oil change.
All things that can be fixed.


--

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Hope you didn't pay too much ( like more than scrap value) for it.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 10/8/2015 7:04 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> And the van starts like it WANTS to run. I took it
> to a service call, and it did good. Surges a bit,
> might have a bad vacuum hose. Get that some day,
> or other.

> .
> Christopher A. Young
> learn more about Jesus
> . www.lds.org
> .

Some rain last night. For the last several
years, the van won't start when it's wet.

Today, it started. I call that progress.

--

[Stormin Mormon]

On 10/26/2015 1:03 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 10:05:44 -0400, Stormin Mormon

>> Thanks for the wishes of luck. I did limp the
>> old rusty machine to a friend's house in South
>> Carolina. Went the next day to look at another
>> truck. Ended up buying one of the same year,
>> model, package, color, etc. The replacement needs
>> a lot of work, and will be posting a bit about
>> that, over the next few weeks.
>>
>> Wipers, radio, stinks like cigarettes, door panels
>> aren't clipped on, and totally needs an oil change.
>> All things that can be fixed.
>
> Hope you didn't pay too much ( like more than scrap value) for it.
>

When you consider the options, I did very well.

And it has less rust than most vehicles in my area.