Swapping 3.42 gears for 4.10 . . .
Kevin
using the same carrier! I know I will need a new speed sensor for the tranny
when this is complete.
1. Is there anything else I need to be aware of?
2. Is there a "good, better, best" quality of sensor?
3. What is the approximate cost?
Thanks,
Kevin
Richard Bonnett
Congratulations on your discovery. This will help your towing capacity ,but do
you know how much it is in both ratios?
People have asked the capacity question many times here for different vehicles.
....
Dean Dardwin
Without knowing what kind of truck and transmission you have we can't
help on the VSSB question.
I can tell you, don't rush out to buy one until you are certain you are
happy with the gear swap and the size of the tires.
Dean
brian
"Kevin" <No...@nunya.com> wrote in message
news:eT318.15772$yy3.2...@typhoon.neo.rr.com...
What model and year vehicle?
I wouldn't be in a hurry to change it, quite yet. You might want to put
taller rubber on your truck.
I'd just buy a GM replacement sensor for that gear ratio. However, if
you've got a newer truck you can probably have the computer reprogrammed.
If you've got a 4wd, don't forget about the front axle.
> Thanks,
> Kevin
-Brian
Kevin
about changing to a locker, but slip has never been an issue with the weight
and it never leaves the pavement. Snow is barely a thought anymore in the
Midwest so that doesn't even factor into the equation. A locker at 3.73
would be around $500. Leaving it open should be around $200 for the gears.
Putting larger tires won't solve the towing capacity issue I'm wanting to
increase. Right now it is rated at around 5,800 to 6,000 lbs. with the 3.42.
The 4.10 should take it closer to 8,000 lbs. since the 3.73 would go to
7,000 lbs.
Kevin
"brian" <nos...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:u4c10ti...@corp.supernews.com...
Dean Dardwin
You might want to look at trailer life's website or another that has tow ratings. I can guarantee you this. No C1500 comes close to 8,000 lb regardless of the gear ratio. And gear ratio is only part of the equation. Changing the gear ratio, by itself, has no effect on the GVWR/GCWR of your truck. Those numbers are on your driver's door placard. The higher rated trucks have bigger axles, brakes, load range "E" tires, transmission shift points, transmission and engine oil coolers, some even have power steering coolers. There are other HD items. If you really want to tow a 8,000 lb trailer safely, get a 3/4 ton truck with the proper GVWR/GCWR.
Dean
Tony M. Kimmell
>taller rubber on your truck.
Why on earth would you do this? he's wanting a lower gear ratio. Putting
taller tires on would do just the opposite...
Tony Kimmell
Normal, IL
Dust Might
Aaron Johnson
>This is on a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500. It's an open rear 2-WD...
>Right now it is rated at around 5,800 to 6,000 lbs. with the 3.42.
My '99 Burb owners manual rates your 3.42 vehicle at 5500 lbs.
With a 3.73 it is rated at 6500 lbs. Those are the only two ratios
shown for the C-1500 (2WD) 5.7L gas engine.
>The 4.10 should take it closer to 8,000 lbs.
The C-2500 (2WD) has a 4.10 offered. For the 5.7L
engine it's rated at 7500 lbs and for the 7.4L engine it's 8500 lbs.
Kevin
my manual also shows that there were only two ratios offered, but that
doesn't mean you can't change it on your own after market.
"Aaron Johnson" <nom...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:dsrc4u496cfsh09cp...@4ax.com...
Kevin
"Dean Dardwin" <d...@dxd.com> wrote in message news:3C463D7A...@dxd.com...
Mike
extras such as the awning, A/C unit, microwave (if equipped). These had
to get added in to the base dry weight to get the actual dry weight...
Kevin wrote:
> The truck already has different range tires, has an engine oil cooler
> and I will add a second transmission cooler. A small detail, I also run
> synthetic oil so it can handle extra stress. The only thing left to
> investigate, if necessary, is changing shift points.
>
>
>
> Something else to keep in mind. The 8,000 lbs. GVWR on the camper is
> only loaded to the gills. Empty it is closer to 5,880 lbs. We don't even
> come close to carrying 3,000 lbs. of "stuff." It will probably end up
> close to 7,000 lbs. at best.
>
>
>
> Kevin
>
> "Dean Dardwin" <d...@dxd.com <mailto:d...@dxd.com>> wrote in message
brian
> This is on a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500. It's an open rear 2-WD. I thought
> about changing to a locker, but slip has never been an issue with the
weight
> and it never leaves the pavement. Snow is barely a thought anymore in the
> Midwest so that doesn't even factor into the equation. A locker at 3.73
> would be around $500. Leaving it open should be around $200 for the gears.
Yeah, a locker with a ring and pinion would cost you around $500. In your
case, I'd go with limited slip though. If you shop around enough, you can
find ring and pinions for $130-150.
> Putting larger tires won't solve the towing capacity issue I'm wanting to
> increase. Right now it is rated at around 5,800 to 6,000 lbs. with the
3.42.
> The 4.10 should take it closer to 8,000 lbs. since the 3.73 would go to
> 7,000 lbs.
Usually, the only reason people go with 4.11's on a half ton is because they
want bigger tires. Changing the gear ratio is only going to make your truck
appear to have that 250 horses under the hood.
If you wan to start yanking around a trailer that weighs more than 5000 lbs
with your 'burban, I hope you don't see any hills bigger than those found
north of Claire on I75 in Michigan. After my aunt and uncle beat the tar
out of their 98 half ton pickup yanking around a 7000lb fifth wheel in the
Alps and smoking the brakes on the truck and disintegrating the hubs on
their trailer, they bought a 2500HD (mainly to be cool, all they needed was
a 2500). Yes, they had 4.11 gears and ran the truck in third gear. I hope
you've got rivited, not bonded, shoes and pads.
For shits and giggles, I looked up your 'burban. It says they don't make a
half ton two wheel drive with the 350 that takes more than 6500lbs trailer
weight. The three quarter ton takes 7500lbs. Neither take more than a
thousand on the tongue. I imagine that it's the chassis, not the power,
that is the problem. I mean, you're going to be taxing everything on the
truck. I imagine it's not just you and your truck going down the road,
you've probably got the 'burban packed full of stuff.
I don't even like hauling around more than 2000lbs behind my halfton pickup,
and 4000lbs makes me nervous.
Good luck
> Kevin
-Brian
brian
"Tony M. Kimmell" <bigch...@aol.comAOLSUCKS> wrote in message
news:20020116232954...@mb-mn.aol.com...
Read his original post, he said nothing about wanting to increase towing
ability.
> Tony Kimmell
> Normal, IL
-Brian
Justin Fisher
go from 3.42 gears to a Posi with 3.73. My question is will this change
increase my torque or horsepower? I am looking for a better jump off the
line. I plan to put a super charger in by the end of the year.
"Kevin" <No...@nunya.com> wrote in message
news:eT318.15772$yy3.2...@typhoon.neo.rr.com...
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Justin Fisher
"Justin Fisher" <smo...@bygdoggy.com> wrote in message
news:3c474000$1...@goliath.newsgroups.com...
Kevin
I appreciate the information you supplied. I am still doing a bit more
research before I jump into the change.
I do have to question why you feel uneasy about towing even 2,000 lbs behind
your 1500 pickup? I started off pulling our large pop-up that weighs
approximately 2,800 lbs. loaded with our '95 Yukon, 350 TBI. We pulled it
over 3,500 miles to TX, across LA and AL, and back through the mountains of
TN without even a hesitation over the course of one trip. It's had many
other miles put on it during other trips to TN, etc. The Yukon only has the
3.42 rear end. It pulls even nicer with the '99 Suburban, 350 Vortec. Now
one key here is the pop-up does have electric brakes on it so this makes
stopping very easy.
Back to the Suburban. Actually there won't be much more than a few people in
the Suburban while towing. No need to pack everything in there when the
camper can suddenly hold things like the luggage instead. Just one reason
for the camper upgrade. We can also opt not to tow around the 300 lbs. of
water and fill up at the campgrounds.
Have a good evening,
Kevin
"brian" <nos...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:u4e812a...@corp.supernews.com...
Tony M. Kimmell
>> >taller rubber on your truck.
>>
>> Why on earth would you do this? he's wanting a lower gear ratio. Putting
>> taller tires on would do just the opposite...
>
>Read his original post, he said nothing about wanting to increase towing
>ability.
I did read his original post and I never said anything about towing capacity in
the first place.
He wants to lower his gear ratio from 3.42 gears to 4.10 gears.
Now, putting taller tires on your truck will do the OPPOSITE of lowering your
gear ratio, like I said before.
What don't you understand?
Tony Kimmell
Normal, IL
Tony M. Kimmell
>go from 3.42 gears to a Posi with 3.73. My question is will this change
>increase my torque or horsepower? I am looking for a better jump off the
>line. I plan to put a super charger in by the end of the year.
hmm... a supercharger on a 305? What's the point? ;-)
Tony Kimmell
Normal, IL
Timo Wildschut
'80 Chevy Van 30, 350 V8, TH400 tran, gear ratio is abouth 4.7 I want
higher mph i.e. lower RPM. Driving at 55 miles is ok, 80 miles is like
hell. I am considering changing the rear gear to abouth 3.6 .
Any suggestions or opinions abouth this one? Upto now it's just loose
thoughts..
Tnx, Timo
john alt
70, depending on the tire size you have. Did you replace the rear
axle?
Look in the glove box for the original axle ratio. It is probably more
in the 3.73 to 3.08 range.
Try the following link to figure out a good axle ratio. If you still
wanna tow or carry heavy loads don't go any taller than a 3.08 or so.
Timo Wildschut
john alt wrote:
>
> In article <3C485A74...@home.nl>, Timo Wildschut stated...
> > How abouth the other way around?
> >
> > '80 Chevy Van 30, 350 V8, TH400 tran, gear ratio is abouth 4.7 I want
> > higher mph i.e. lower RPM. Driving at 55 miles is ok, 80 miles is like
> > hell. I am considering changing the rear gear to abouth 3.6 .
> > Any suggestions or opinions abouth this one? Upto now it's just loose
> > thoughts..
> I find 4.7 a little hard to believe. That would be near 4000 rpm at
> 70, depending on the tire size you have.
It is indeed doing 4000 rpm at 80 miles, that's why I want to change it.
Couldn't find the precise current ratio, I'll open the diff cover next
week to count teeth, has to do some job on it anyway (new
wheelbearings).
> Look in the glove box for the original axle ratio. It is probably more
> in the 3.73 to 3.08 range.
Remember, this is a van, not a truck. The G30 series were never intend
to drive >55 (so I'm told). Since it has no trailer hitch I won't be
doing any towing.
Chris Arrington
I would swap for a 3.73. If he wants to drop his rpm's that would be
perfect.
Chris
Tony M. Kimmell <bigch...@aol.comAOLSUCKS> wrote in message
news:20020117211407...@mb-fs.aol.com...
Irishman
> This is on a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500. It's an open rear 2-WD. I
thought
> about changing to a locker, but slip has never been an issue with the
weight
> and it never leaves the pavement. Snow is barely a thought anymore in
the
> Midwest so that doesn't even factor into the equation. A locker at
3.73
> would be around $500. Leaving it open should be around $200 for the
gears.
>
> Putting larger tires won't solve the towing capacity issue I'm wanting
to
> increase. Right now it is rated at around 5,800 to 6,000 lbs. with the
3.42.
> The 4.10 should take it closer to 8,000 lbs. since the 3.73 would go
to
> 7,000 lbs.
I don't know if the 1999 is the same as the '96, but the 1996 CO-2500
Suburban with 4.10 gears has 7500 lb max trailer weight. Just changing
gears wont get you to the same capacity as the 3/4 ton Suburban. Maybe
if you changed to a beefier rear end, springs and drive shaft you could
get to the same capacity.
Irishman
Richard Bonnett
I have a reg cab 5 liter silverado with long bed 3.73 rear.[1990].
My tow requirement pushed me to get a 3/4 ton 6 liter 3.73 rear silverado...but
kept the old truck.
The old truck received an extra leaf that works fine and removed the
5 inch sag I got with the trailer attached. It supported the tongue
well enough to elliminate that sag but raised the rear by 2 negligable
inches when the trailer was not attached.
The bed carrying capacity was enhanced for other purposes.
THe basic problem remained.... the old truck did not have the
pulling power for
hills and could strain under hilly conditions. It did well on flat
non-challenging roads.
So you need to consider your operating conditions and engine as well
as the drive train.
I have a similar tow load as you. About 6500 to 8000
load [depending on fuel and water inside boat tanks].
If you went with the gear change and the leaf addition then consideration
for other parts may be made [ like front shocks/coil springs] may be needed...
But since you do not live in your vehicle with a tow load every day....you
may need this capability only 1 percent of the time you drive the vehicle.
It only takes a weak link to break but parts get stressed excessively
occasionally
and as long as done rarely, it may serve you well.
The costs to make required changes need to be added up and compared
to the
alternative costs to change vehicle to a 3/4 ton that has durability
implied but a questionable increase in capacity. You can see subtle
changes in chevy products
that affect tow capacity....
like look at the 1500HD versus a 2500.
like look at the 2500 versus a 2500HD.
The specifications are shocking . They seem to make these small changes
like springs/shocks or whatever and the 1500 [half ton] can pull up to
nearly 8000!
What are these 'tricks'? Well, it's partly that the 3/4 ton is
a heavier vehicle so that goes against the tow capacity limit whereas the
1500HD is lighter than the 3/4 ton
and this is added to it's tow limit capacity... WOW!
Are we getting somewhere here?
So, add the leaf to the rear/// not more than one per side.
Replace the gear .
Measure before and after the changes....
the bumper heights front and rear with known dead weight loads on the
bumper hitch.
Ensure the trailer has level frame from front to rear originally.
Observe that the two to four inch change in the trailer tongue height may
cause you to adjust the draw bar's adjustable ball height. In fact once
the two are married, determine the resulting change in the tongue weight
and the increase of the height of the tongue from the
ground. It may mean that the draw bar ball height is too high
and and needs to be lowered. WHY? You are placing additional
tongue weight on the vehicle needlessly and if excessive, it will reduce
control while towing.
Your towing objective would be a level vehicle with a level trailer.
It's quite simple.
If you introduce a shift of weight so there is a dip or peak at the
connection of the two 'vehicles' then control will change and the effective
weight on the vehicle may increase/decrease.
A level arraingement allows the trailer to carry it's load while the
tow vehicle has minimal responsiblility except to pull it up hills or over
the roadway. The tongue weight offers the traction to the tow vehicle
but when excessive, it will take weight off the front wheels which need
traction for control.
*************
Sorry......I got way off the topic but it's another point of view.
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\//////////////////////////
Kevin
"Richard Bonnett" <Tall...@home.com> wrote in message news:3C530FB1...@home.com...
Richard Bonnett
Originally it sounded like you were pinching pennies but now you're in debt like the rest of the world... Use the web sites to track tech bulletins ; and look at the bulletin boards for customer views...
I learned a little about what some problems that have troubled truck buyers.
Fortunately the seem minor for the 3/4 ton chevy truck.
Let us know how the fuel economy is.
Also, your tow load is just below the threshold to need the tow/haul mode button.
This means that you may save some gas when the truck does not need to use this feature. So, on level roads where the truck is not working or even sweating
to haul the trailer , then leave the mode OFF.
My load is similar and can be 8000 but I use that mode only when I need it ;
which occurs if I am going up hills under heavier loads.
It's in your owners manual.
What tires did they put on it? If they are firestone, try to negotiate to get rid of them.
There are far better tires and you must live with these a long time.
Will your new truck
Kevin wrote:
Here's the latest scoop. I have scrapped the idea of changing the gears in my Suburban. What am I doing then??? I am buying a Chevy 2500HD extended cab w/ the 6.0 L and 4.10 rear! It's a very nice truck and will be more than capable of pulling the new loaded camper weight of 7,000 - 7,500lbs with a rating of 10,300 lbs! My Dad just picked up his 2500HD w/ the 8.1L and Alison tranny today. Yep, we did a double buy deal!!! The decision has been made to sell our '95 GMC Yukon since we definitely want to keep the Suburban. This is a drag really as I really like both trucks and the Yukon is absolutely like new still. Not only that, but the engine has yet to get broken in with only 72,000 miles on the clock and I run Mobil 1 synthetic oil w/ oil and filter changes every 3K - 4K miles! The tires are practically new as are the Monroe shocks, etc. Oh well, someone will get themselves a very sharp and nice truck. Later,Kevin
"Richard Bonnett" <Tall...@home.com> wrote in message news:3C530FB1...@home.com...You may consider adding one leaf spring for and extra 800 pound dead weight support for the load as well as the change to 4.10 gears.