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88 S-10 running rich
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Strangel
May 28, 2003, 1:52:22 AM5/28/03
to
My little 88 S-10 (V6, 2.8L, vin R) is running rich, and it's causing
problems. When the engine is cold, it's not so bad...but when the
engine is at/close to operating temp and I try to crank it back up, it
gets to the point where it's supposed to start idling (right after you
let off the key) and it just dies. It will only crank and STAY cranked
if you press the accelerator while cranking. The engine adjusts to the
rich condition somewhat shortly after the engine starts, which I think
would be the IAC valve changing to let in lots more air to deal with
the excess of fuel. I already replaced the fuel filter, EGR valve (got
a code on it and the old one wasn't looking too hot anyway),
plugs/wires, and the engine gaskets are all new/fairly new, so those
aren't the problem either. Vacuum pressure looks fine as well. I had
put it in the shop but they couldn't figure anything out, what they
DID do is switch out parts to see if any of it would fix the problem,
and it didn't; they switched out the computer and the injectors, as
well as tested all voltages/grounds, verified all sensors working
correctly. My best guess right now is that the fuel pressure regulator
is screwed up. However, I don't have a way to test it. I would just
replace it, but my Haynes manual emphasizes that I should buy the
whole fuel meter cover because of the spring in the regulator. The
local parts stores don't seem to carry the fuel meter cover, unless
it's now called something different :) Looking up fuel meter cover on
gmpartsdirect.com gives me the part number 12112399, but I want to be
sure that I get the right thing. If I must actually fiddle with the
regulator itself instead of just trying a new fuel meter cover, what
can I look forward to with regard to replacement of *just* the
pressure regulator?
problems. When the engine is cold, it's not so bad...but when the
engine is at/close to operating temp and I try to crank it back up, it
gets to the point where it's supposed to start idling (right after you
let off the key) and it just dies. It will only crank and STAY cranked
if you press the accelerator while cranking. The engine adjusts to the
rich condition somewhat shortly after the engine starts, which I think
would be the IAC valve changing to let in lots more air to deal with
the excess of fuel. I already replaced the fuel filter, EGR valve (got
a code on it and the old one wasn't looking too hot anyway),
plugs/wires, and the engine gaskets are all new/fairly new, so those
aren't the problem either. Vacuum pressure looks fine as well. I had
put it in the shop but they couldn't figure anything out, what they
DID do is switch out parts to see if any of it would fix the problem,
and it didn't; they switched out the computer and the injectors, as
well as tested all voltages/grounds, verified all sensors working
correctly. My best guess right now is that the fuel pressure regulator
is screwed up. However, I don't have a way to test it. I would just
replace it, but my Haynes manual emphasizes that I should buy the
whole fuel meter cover because of the spring in the regulator. The
local parts stores don't seem to carry the fuel meter cover, unless
it's now called something different :) Looking up fuel meter cover on
gmpartsdirect.com gives me the part number 12112399, but I want to be
sure that I get the right thing. If I must actually fiddle with the
regulator itself instead of just trying a new fuel meter cover, what
can I look forward to with regard to replacement of *just* the
pressure regulator?
Eida Manne
May 29, 2003, 9:37:50 AM5/29/03
to
=====================================
88 S-10 running rich
Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Tue, May 27, 2003, 10:52pm (CDT-2) From:
stra...@antitime.net (Strangel)
=====================================
88 S-10 running rich
Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Tue, May 27, 2003, 10:52pm (CDT-2) From:
stra...@antitime.net (Strangel)
You can test the fuel pressure regulator by
"clamping off" the return hose leading back
to the tank....use a set of vice grips... and see
if your symptom goes away.
I would suggest changing the Fuel Filter next...
and clean the throttle valve with BG blaster
or some other good spray cleaner....could be
as simple as a gummed up intake...
.....
HaroldLoyd
wonders this is the reason you've changed all
the parts.... or if it started after a repair.
============================================================================
Strangel
May 29, 2003, 11:34:57 PM5/29/03
to
This whole thing started because it wasn't running right, not as the result
of a repair. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter (and the
breather filter while I was in there), no effect. Then I replaced the EGR
valve because my Haynes manual said a problem with it could cause most of
the things I was experiencing. That had no effect either. I also ran fuel
injector cleaner through the tank as well as using the spray stuff. Still
ran the same. So, I put it in the shop, they tell me my intake manifold
gasket is leaky, they replace it along with the valve cover gasket and the
tbi gasket, and *STILL* acts the same. I let them keep it for a week and
they couldn't figure out anything else. I replaced the plugs, wires, and
distributor cap when I got it back just to be able to say I did it and it's
not the problem, and noticed that the old plugs looked kinda sooty (like I
said, it's rich). I replaced some vacuum lines for good measure. I opened up
my fuel pressure regulator to check it out, and everything looks fine. A
friend of mine also has a 2.8L V6 S-10 (except his is 91) so we just
switched them out to see if there was any change - there wasn't.
The mechanic tried a new computer and it had no effect, but to my knowledge
you carry over the old prom chip to the new computer, so perhaps the prom is
malfunctioning? I'm at a loss here. I haven't dealt with any possible
exhaust-related causes, what kind of exhaust problems could cause this? BTW,
the truck has 61k on it and to my knowledge the catalytic converter has
never been touched, though I had a muffler job done sometime after I got it
(probably in late 99 or so).
I have the capability to use WinALDL, if there are any specific readings
that you guys would like to look at to help diagnose.
Sorry for the length....hope you guys have more ideas than I do.
of a repair. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter (and the
breather filter while I was in there), no effect. Then I replaced the EGR
valve because my Haynes manual said a problem with it could cause most of
the things I was experiencing. That had no effect either. I also ran fuel
injector cleaner through the tank as well as using the spray stuff. Still
ran the same. So, I put it in the shop, they tell me my intake manifold
gasket is leaky, they replace it along with the valve cover gasket and the
tbi gasket, and *STILL* acts the same. I let them keep it for a week and
they couldn't figure out anything else. I replaced the plugs, wires, and
distributor cap when I got it back just to be able to say I did it and it's
not the problem, and noticed that the old plugs looked kinda sooty (like I
said, it's rich). I replaced some vacuum lines for good measure. I opened up
my fuel pressure regulator to check it out, and everything looks fine. A
friend of mine also has a 2.8L V6 S-10 (except his is 91) so we just
switched them out to see if there was any change - there wasn't.
The mechanic tried a new computer and it had no effect, but to my knowledge
you carry over the old prom chip to the new computer, so perhaps the prom is
malfunctioning? I'm at a loss here. I haven't dealt with any possible
exhaust-related causes, what kind of exhaust problems could cause this? BTW,
the truck has 61k on it and to my knowledge the catalytic converter has
never been touched, though I had a muffler job done sometime after I got it
(probably in late 99 or so).
I have the capability to use WinALDL, if there are any specific readings
that you guys would like to look at to help diagnose.
Sorry for the length....hope you guys have more ideas than I do.
Jim
"Eida Manne" <Harol...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:14544-3ED...@storefull-2356.public.lawson.webtv.net...
Guitar Boogie
May 31, 2003, 11:44:11 AM5/31/03
to
..............
check the temp sensor........could be bad.
check the temp sensor........could be bad.
.....
(GibsonSixString)
"in my songs ....now as i ride along.....just a happy rove'n
cowboy,....heard'n the dark clouds out'a the sky.....keep'n the heav'ns
blue"
.......................................................................................................................................................
Strangel
May 31, 2003, 11:04:29 PM5/31/03
to
The shop checked all sensors, and i've also watched their outputs with
WinALDL. They all seem fine.
WinALDL. They all seem fine.
Jim
"Guitar Boogie" <GibsonS...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:20250-3E...@storefull-2355.public.lawson.webtv.net...
knowjuan
Jun 5, 2003, 8:52:08 PM6/5/03
to
I've heard a clogged cat can cause gas mileage problems. How do you drive
it? Slow like a granny can clog it.
it? Slow like a granny can clog it.
ruben.t...@gmail.com
Dec 22, 2017, 7:37:41 PM12/22/17
to
I have a 1989 Trooper with Chevy 2.8L V6. I decided to take appart the TBI today, replaced the TPS, cleaned the whole thing and serviced the IACV. The IACV you just have to unscrew the center pin (spinlge I think they call it) and it will come off... I cleaned it with carb cleaner and then lubed it with WD40 and reassembled it. After assemblying the whole thing, my TBI started running rich and uneven (if I can use that term)... you neednto ve careful about reassemblying the IACV, it has a certain graduation which needs to be observed. I got mine at 28mm from the body of the vslve to the tip of the pin... this you can adjust by screwing or unscrewing the pin... nevertheless, the tbi was still running rich... after reading a few articles about it, I came to the conclusion of disconnecting the battery for about 15 minutes... problem solved!
Sam Stone
Dec 23, 2017, 11:08:28 AM12/23/17
to
After replacing a heat riser tube for cold running my vehicle acted weird until I ALSO removed a
battery cable for a reset of the computers. WD-40 ( Water Displacement 40th try ) is not a
lubricant. No where on the can can you find the word lubricant. wd40 does great at removing dirty
old build-ups of 'gunky stuff' . Enjoy
--
battery cable for a reset of the computers. WD-40 ( Water Displacement 40th try ) is not a
lubricant. No where on the can can you find the word lubricant. wd40 does great at removing dirty
old build-ups of 'gunky stuff' . Enjoy
quntavi...@yahoo.com
Jan 21, 2018, 12:25:36 PM1/21/18
to
I have a 88 s10 2.8 and rebuilt it all the way through and it still runs rich
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