'82 GMC v-6 engine sizes

[Chas]

Having a hell of a time trying to locate a clutch assmb for a friends 4
speed 1982 GMC S15. I don't know what size his V6 engine is. Does anyone
know the sizes these engines came in and where to locate that info on the
block? in appreciation. . .chas

[Reed]

The only V-6 used in the early 80s S-10/S-15's was the 2.8 liter. Same
as my '84 S-10 Blazer. The 4.3 was not added until 1988.

Also see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GMC_S-15#Engines

In 1982 the VIN code = B

[Steve W.]

82 would have the 2.8 in it.

Clutch kits -

GM - Delco # 19182433
Rock Auto - Brute Power # 90128
Rock Auto - Rhino # 04508
Rock Auto - Sachs # K189401
Advance Auto - Perfection # MU1900-1
Auto Zone - Duralast # NU1894-1
Pep Boys - LUK # 04-068
NAPA - NCF 1104068

--
Steve W.

[Chas]

I thank both you gentlemen for the assistance. Just what I needed.

[Stormin Mormon]

It is rare, when a poster uses good manners on Usenet. I was reading another
(less polite) couple of posts on another list. It is a pleasure to find
someone with manners.

The contrast is jarring, to say the least.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Chas" <footb...@bresnan.net> wrote in message
news:xy2Tq.847$Tj6...@newsfe22.iad...

[Steve W.]

Chas wrote:
> I thank both you gentlemen for the assistance. Just what I needed.
>
>

You're welcome.

The 2.8 in the Blazer I had never impressed me much. In later years I
stuck a 3.4 L32 out of a 95 Camaro in it. Fuel injection and the extra
HP and torque really made a difference. Plus it was almost a bolt in swap.

--
Steve W.

[Chas]

> The 2.8 in the Blazer I had never impressed me much. In later years I
> stuck a 3.4 L32 out of a 95 Camaro in it. Fuel injection and the extra HP
> and torque really made a difference. Plus it was almost a bolt in swap.

> Steve W.
*************************
I have been informed that to replace the clutch assmb one has to pull the
motor. Can't work it from underneath.
Can you confirm this?. . .thank you. Chas

[Stormin Mormon]

A mechanic friend of mine, cautioned me about one of the engines. I had a
2.8 in one of my S-10 trucks, and it served me well. I think it was the 2.5
that had oil delivery problems?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:jfjpho$u3$1...@dont-email.me...

[Stormin Mormon]

Sounds goofy, to me. I'd think the clutch and tx are under there.

My s-10 pickup, the clutch pedal was badly worn, and the "self adjuster"
didn't work hardly at all. I bought another pedal, but never quite put it
in. Might still have it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Chas" <footb...@bresnan.net> wrote in message

news:b_dTq.5911$WY2....@newsfe13.iad...

[Steve W.]

The 2.8 had a few problems in the earlier versions. The oil system was
designed for transverse mounting and
the oil passages made oil a problem when the engine aged.

--
Steve W.

[Steve W.]

4X4 or 2WD?

On the 2wd you can pull the trans and work from there. Pull the radiator
shroud and fan off first, then use a jack to lower the rear of the trans
after you take off the rear cross-member. Then use a LONG extension to
get to the bell housing bolts.

On the 4X4 you can do almost the same thing. BUT the transfer case makes
it harder to handle because the front shaft doesn't have a lot of room
for access.

For both you may want to replace the U-Joints on the rear shaft since
you will have it out anyway.


In both cases getting to a couple of the bolts creates "interesting"
language.

While you are there you might also want to check/replace the ground
connection to the rear of the passenger side head, they have a habit of
rotting and causing mysterious electrical problems.

--
Steve W.

[45...@mydaja.com]

On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 10:42:47 -0500, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
wro

>> The 2.8 in the Blazer I had never impressed me much. In later years I
>> stuck a 3.4 L32 out of a 95 Camaro in it. Fuel injection and the extra
>> HP and torque really made a difference. Plus it was almost a bolt in swap.
>>
>
>The 2.8 had a few problems in the earlier versions. The oil system was
>designed for transverse mounting and
>the oil passages made oil a problem when the engine aged.

I'm just tickled there is an 82 still running!!

[Chas]

>> I have been informed that to replace the clutch assmb one has to pull the
>> motor. Can't work it from underneath.
>> Can you confirm this?. . .thank you. Chas

******************************************
4X4 or 2WD?-------------------- It's Two Wheel Drive

On the 2wd you can pull the trans and work from there.
Pull the radiator shroud and fan off first,

--------------- Off hand I can't imagine what doing this would
accomplish...is the shroud bolted to the engine? Can you tell me please?. .
. .

then use a jack to lower the rear of the trans after you take off the rear
cross-member. Then use a LONG extension to get to the bell housing bolts.

---- In my youth I had that special lanuage you mentioned. . ..thanks
again. . .chas

[Steve W.]

Chas wrote:
>>> I have been informed that to replace the clutch assmb one has to pull the
>>> motor. Can't work it from underneath.
>>> Can you confirm this?. . .thank you. Chas
> ******************************************
> 4X4 or 2WD?-------------------- It's Two Wheel Drive
>
> On the 2wd you can pull the trans and work from there.
> Pull the radiator shroud and fan off first,
> --------------- Off hand I can't imagine what doing this would
> accomplish...is the shroud bolted to the engine? Can you tell me please?. .

The shroud and fan are VERY tight clearance wise, when you tilt the back
of the engine down the fan can break the shroud.
Removing the fan also means that should the jack slip under the truck
you won't also be replacing the radiator because the fan peeled it open.

And you WILL be tilting the engine down a bit, the bell housing bolts
can be a real bear to get out because of the way the body sits. The book
actually tells you to pull the body bolts and jack it out of the way to
get to them. I usually just place a stuff bar above the bolt and bend
the body seam up so it clears.

> . .
>
> then use a jack to lower the rear of the trans after you take off the rear
> cross-member. Then use a LONG extension to get to the bell housing bolts.
> ---- In my youth I had that special lanuage you mentioned. . ..thanks
> again. . .chas
>
>
>

--
Steve W.

[Chas]

>> On the 2wd you can pull the trans and work from there.
>> Pull the radiator shroud and fan off first,
>> --------------- Off hand I can't imagine what doing this would
>> accomplish...is the shroud bolted to the engine? Can you tell me
>> please?. .
>
> The shroud and fan are VERY tight clearance wise, when you tilt the back
> of the engine down the fan can break the shroud.
> Removing the fan also means that should the jack slip under the truck you
> won't also be replacing the radiator because the fan peeled it open.
>
> And you WILL be tilting the engine down a bit, the bell housing bolts can
> be a real bear to get out because of the way the body sits. The book
> actually tells you to pull the body bolts and jack it out of the way to
> get to them. I usually just place a stuff bar above the bolt and bend the
> body seam up so it clears.

>> Steve W.
***********************
It appears you have saved me hours and hours of labor, all unnecessary. . .
.I sure appreciate these tips and hints you have presented. . .chas.
>

[Steve W.]

I've owned and worked on more than a few of them. It wasn't until they
switched over to the 4.3 that they finally adjusted the motor mounts
enough that you could get in there easily from below, and that is only
on the 2WD. The 4X4s are still very tight on one side because of all the
crap down that side.

--
Steve W.