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1998 Blazer motor mount
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Stormin Mormon
Jan 19, 2013, 6:51:14 PM1/19/13
to
Have you changed a drivers side motor mount on
a 98 Chevy Blazer, four wheel drive, with 4.3?
I may be doing one later this year when it warms
up. Havn't looked under, but it's got to be tight
quarters to work with. I did one years ago, on a
rear drive Dodge Van, and that wasn't too bad.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
a 98 Chevy Blazer, four wheel drive, with 4.3?
I may be doing one later this year when it warms
up. Havn't looked under, but it's got to be tight
quarters to work with. I did one years ago, on a
rear drive Dodge Van, and that wasn't too bad.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Steve W.
Jan 21, 2013, 1:49:58 AM1/21/13
to
is a good time to do them if they are seeping.
--
Steve W.
Stormin Mormon
Jan 21, 2013, 9:19:25 AM1/21/13
to
Thanks. From what I can figure, have to jack up the vehicle, take the
drivers front wheel off, and that will help get at things. One bolt maybe
from the top.
The Haynes book says not to lift from under the oil pan, risk of damaging
the oil pickup. I'll probably put a second jack under the transmission, to
lift some of the weight.
It's tight, for oil, holds OK between oil changes.
"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kdioed$24a$1...@dont-email.me...
drivers front wheel off, and that will help get at things. One bolt maybe
from the top.
The Haynes book says not to lift from under the oil pan, risk of damaging
the oil pickup. I'll probably put a second jack under the transmission, to
lift some of the weight.
It's tight, for oil, holds OK between oil changes.
"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kdioed$24a$1...@dont-email.me...
Steve W.
Jan 21, 2013, 6:02:54 PM1/21/13
to
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Thanks. From what I can figure, have to jack up the vehicle, take the
> drivers front wheel off, and that will help get at things. One bolt maybe
> from the top.
>
> The Haynes book says not to lift from under the oil pan, risk of damaging
> the oil pickup. I'll probably put a second jack under the transmission, to
> lift some of the weight.
>
> It's tight, for oil, holds OK between oil changes.
>
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
Watch where you jack under there not many places where the metal can
> Thanks. From what I can figure, have to jack up the vehicle, take the
> drivers front wheel off, and that will help get at things. One bolt maybe
> from the top.
>
> The Haynes book says not to lift from under the oil pan, risk of damaging
> the oil pickup. I'll probably put a second jack under the transmission, to
> lift some of the weight.
>
> It's tight, for oil, holds OK between oil changes.
>
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
handle the weight. I would recommend making a simple bridge over the
engine with a solid block on one side and the spare jack to lift the
engine. Couple of 2x4s will do the job.
Grab a set of gear wrenches and you can get in there easier. (Sears has
a Christmas set on clearance for like 40-50 bucks)
--
Steve W.
Stormin Mormon
Jan 22, 2013, 8:03:12 AM1/22/13
to
Not sure what you mean "bridge over the engine".
Also don't know what you mean "gear wrenches".
.
"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
wrote in message news:kdkhf8$npv$1...@dont-email.me...
Also don't know what you mean "gear wrenches".
.
"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
wrote in message news:kdkhf8$npv$1...@dont-email.me...
Steve W.
Jan 22, 2013, 10:51:59 AM1/22/13
to
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Not sure what you mean "bridge over the engine".
Stack some blocks or similar on each side and bridge the gap then attach
> Not sure what you mean "bridge over the engine".
a chain ti the engine and use a jack and lift the engine enough to take
the weight off the mount.
>
> Also don't know what you mean "gear wrenches".
Stormin Mormon
Jan 22, 2013, 11:13:07 AM1/22/13
to
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Not sure what you mean "bridge over the engine".
Stack some blocks or similar on each side and bridge the gap then attach
a chain ti the engine and use a jack and lift the engine enough to take
the weight off the mount.
CY: Should use overhead chain and lift? Not sure I have any way to do that.
> Not sure what you mean "bridge over the engine".
Stack some blocks or similar on each side and bridge the gap then attach
a chain ti the engine and use a jack and lift the engine enough to take
the weight off the mount.
>
> Also don't know what you mean "gear wrenches".
GearWrench - self contained ratcheting box end wrenches
Steve W.
Jan 22, 2013, 2:25:13 PM1/22/13
to
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Stormin Mormon wrote:
>> Not sure what you mean "bridge over the engine".
>
> Stack some blocks or similar on each side and bridge the gap then attach
> a chain ti the engine and use a jack and lift the engine enough to take
> the weight off the mount.
>
> CY: Should use overhead chain and lift? Not sure I have any way to do that.
That would be preferred. Why not hit one of the parts stores and see if
> Stormin Mormon wrote:
>> Not sure what you mean "bridge over the engine".
>
> Stack some blocks or similar on each side and bridge the gap then attach
> a chain ti the engine and use a jack and lift the engine enough to take
> the weight off the mount.
>
> CY: Should use overhead chain and lift? Not sure I have any way to do that.
they have a cherry picker for rent, most of the loan a tool places have
the one use per 20 year tools so you don't have to buy one.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jan 22, 2013, 4:53:47 PM1/22/13
to
On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 14:25:13 -0500, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
wrote:
Used to throw a couple of wooden blocks on the fender and a chunk of
steel beam across the top, a hook on the exhaust manifold to a
turnbuckle, and jack the side of the engine up enough to pull the
mount by turning the turnbuckle.. Extremely fine position control that
you can NOT get with a rental cherry picker (which usually has a leaky
valve that lets the engine slowly come down on your finger) The
alternative is a roughly one foot square hunk of 3/4" plywood under
the oil pan, with a screw jack under it - which tends to want to lift
the whole motor when you only want one side up. (as does the cherry
picker if you use the "normal" lift points)
wrote:
steel beam across the top, a hook on the exhaust manifold to a
turnbuckle, and jack the side of the engine up enough to pull the
mount by turning the turnbuckle.. Extremely fine position control that
you can NOT get with a rental cherry picker (which usually has a leaky
valve that lets the engine slowly come down on your finger) The
alternative is a roughly one foot square hunk of 3/4" plywood under
the oil pan, with a screw jack under it - which tends to want to lift
the whole motor when you only want one side up. (as does the cherry
picker if you use the "normal" lift points)
Stormin Mormon
Jan 22, 2013, 6:05:15 PM1/22/13
to
It's a thought. I was thinking to use two jacks, under the oil pan and under
the transmission. Put the lift power on something sturdy. Of course, I
havn't really looked closely.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kdmp1h$5ob$1...@dont-email.me...
the transmission. Put the lift power on something sturdy. Of course, I
havn't really looked closely.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
Steve W.
Jan 22, 2013, 6:31:41 PM1/22/13
to
own weight. The oil pan would be viable except they are crap on the blazers.
--
Steve W.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jan 22, 2013, 6:55:00 PM1/22/13
to
On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 18:31:41 -0500, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
Make a "bridge" that stands on the frame if the fenders are not
strong enough.'
strong enough.'
Stormin Mormon
Jan 23, 2013, 10:51:51 PM1/23/13
to
Now, the brakes are scraping in the back.
Too cold for the driveway, so I'm going to
a garage, soon as they can fit me in.
Too cold for the driveway, so I'm going to
a garage, soon as they can fit me in.
Stormin Mormon
Jan 25, 2013, 8:57:35 AM1/25/13
to
Been a while since the back brakes were changed. Bought some pads, and go to
to the repair garage. I arrived, and they are waiting for a part, so they
can finish a thermostat job, and get the vehicle out of the bay for me.
Pull my truck in. Both inner pads are down to the metal. One caliper
leaking. Call the parts store, and have a caliper delivered. Caliper
arrived, after much time. The nearby store no longer delivers, so they
called a farther away store which does delivery. They sent the right front,
I needed left rear. Send the parts fly car guy out to get the other part.
More waiting. Correct caliper arrived, and they put that in, bled the brakes
and so on. Total cost about $240 including the pads I bought.
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61***spam...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:...
to the repair garage. I arrived, and they are waiting for a part, so they
can finish a thermostat job, and get the vehicle out of the bay for me.
Pull my truck in. Both inner pads are down to the metal. One caliper
leaking. Call the parts store, and have a caliper delivered. Caliper
arrived, after much time. The nearby store no longer delivers, so they
called a farther away store which does delivery. They sent the right front,
I needed left rear. Send the parts fly car guy out to get the other part.
More waiting. Correct caliper arrived, and they put that in, bled the brakes
and so on. Total cost about $240 including the pads I bought.
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61***spam...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:...
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