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2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic Electrical Problems
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William R. Walsh
Oct 31, 2013, 5:21:50 AM10/31/13
to
Well, since the newfangled web forum I posted to hasn't exactly bristling
with answers, especially helpful ones, I figured the old tricks were the
best and so I have returned. (Amazingly my ISP still has a running news
server.)
I traded my 2003 Chevrolet S10 for a 2007 Silverado Classic (carryover body
style) LT 4X4 pickup truck when the S10 dropped its fuel pump. I decided it
had simply fallen apart beyond what I was willing to fix. Everything's been
going well with the "new" truck, or rather, it was until a few days ago.
The trouble started when the Engine Hours counter in the DIC display reset
itself to zero. There's no way to do this manually per the owner's manual,
but nothing else was affected at the time. A half hour later, the ABS and
Brake Fault lights came on, complete with lots of warning chimes. Not long
after this I discovered that the blower fan did not function on any of the
first four speeds. The fifth and highest blower speed works fine. All others
will provoke the brake system warning lights and chimes at random. They'll
also cause the cruise control to lose its speed memory when engaged. It then
has to be reset.
No fuses are blown. I tried replacing the blower resistor pack to no
improvement, thinking it might be an issue with the spike suppression diodes
on that assembly. There is no burned wiring at the climate control head
(manual dual zone), resistor pack or blower motor. Ground at the resistor
pack tests good (zero ohms resistance between it and unpainted body metal).
Volt meter shows 11.5 volts at blower motor terminals with motor unplugged
and meter connected when control is cycled through the first four positions.
Meter shows 11.8 volts at the highest fan speed position. (Engine was not
running during these tests.)
I can't imagine the blower motor itself is bad. I'd expect it to overheat,
blow fuses or not get up to speed if it was bad. It doesn't have a lot of
inertia when spun by hand, but I don't know if a "known good" fan motor
would be different. There is no unusual noise from the blower assembly that
would suggest a bad bearing.
I noticed yesterday upon shifting into four wheel drive mode (floor mounted
shift setup) that the four wheel drive symbol in the instrument cluster did
not light (despite the truck very clearly being in 4WD mode) and the
ABS/brake failure lights once again came on.
This really seems to me like it should be a ground problem, but I sure
haven't found a bad ground.
Any thoughts? Help would be greatly appreciated--driving around with the
blower on high all the time is getting old!
William
with answers, especially helpful ones, I figured the old tricks were the
best and so I have returned. (Amazingly my ISP still has a running news
server.)
I traded my 2003 Chevrolet S10 for a 2007 Silverado Classic (carryover body
style) LT 4X4 pickup truck when the S10 dropped its fuel pump. I decided it
had simply fallen apart beyond what I was willing to fix. Everything's been
going well with the "new" truck, or rather, it was until a few days ago.
The trouble started when the Engine Hours counter in the DIC display reset
itself to zero. There's no way to do this manually per the owner's manual,
but nothing else was affected at the time. A half hour later, the ABS and
Brake Fault lights came on, complete with lots of warning chimes. Not long
after this I discovered that the blower fan did not function on any of the
first four speeds. The fifth and highest blower speed works fine. All others
will provoke the brake system warning lights and chimes at random. They'll
also cause the cruise control to lose its speed memory when engaged. It then
has to be reset.
No fuses are blown. I tried replacing the blower resistor pack to no
improvement, thinking it might be an issue with the spike suppression diodes
on that assembly. There is no burned wiring at the climate control head
(manual dual zone), resistor pack or blower motor. Ground at the resistor
pack tests good (zero ohms resistance between it and unpainted body metal).
Volt meter shows 11.5 volts at blower motor terminals with motor unplugged
and meter connected when control is cycled through the first four positions.
Meter shows 11.8 volts at the highest fan speed position. (Engine was not
running during these tests.)
I can't imagine the blower motor itself is bad. I'd expect it to overheat,
blow fuses or not get up to speed if it was bad. It doesn't have a lot of
inertia when spun by hand, but I don't know if a "known good" fan motor
would be different. There is no unusual noise from the blower assembly that
would suggest a bad bearing.
I noticed yesterday upon shifting into four wheel drive mode (floor mounted
shift setup) that the four wheel drive symbol in the instrument cluster did
not light (despite the truck very clearly being in 4WD mode) and the
ABS/brake failure lights once again came on.
This really seems to me like it should be a ground problem, but I sure
haven't found a bad ground.
Any thoughts? Help would be greatly appreciated--driving around with the
blower on high all the time is getting old!
William
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Oct 31, 2013, 6:06:47 PM10/31/13
to
bilb2765
Oct 31, 2013, 8:11:32 PM10/31/13
to
Hope that is not the case.
Ground would be much better a problem. Just difficult to fix.
May the force be with you.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Oct 31, 2013, 8:56:16 PM10/31/13
to
the problem. Get the wiring diagram. Find the ground wire on the
instrument panel. Tap into it and acrew the wire to the body. Did it
fix the problem? No? Look for another related ground and try again.
Bad connections on the power side, on the other hand , are a BITCH.
fft
Nov 18, 2013, 12:28:54 AM11/18/13
to
lcmcr...@gmail.com
Aug 8, 2014, 4:50:28 PM8/8/14
to
On Thursday, October 31, 2013 5:21:50 AM UTC-4, William R. Walsh wrote:
> Well, since the newfangled web forum I posted to hasn't exactly bristling with answers, especially helpful ones, I figured the old tricks were the best and so I have returned. (Amazingly my ISP still has a running news server.) I traded my 2003 Chevrolet S10 for a 2007 Silverado Classic (carryover body style) LT 4X4 pickup truck when the S10 dropped its fuel pump. I decided it had simply fallen apart beyond what I was willing to fix. Everything's been going well with the "new" truck, or rather, it was until a few days ago. The trouble started when the Engine Hours counter in the DIC display reset itself to zero. There's no way to do this manually per the owner's manual, but nothing else was affected at the time. A half hour later, the ABS and Brake Fault lights came on, complete with lots of warning chimes. Not long after this I discovered that the blower fan did not function on any of the first four speeds. The fifth and highest blower speed works fine. All others will provoke the brake system warning lights and chimes at random. They'll also cause the cruise control to lose its speed memory when engaged. It then has to be reset. No fuses are blown. I tried replacing the blower resistor pack to no improvement, thinking it might be an issue with the spike suppression diodes on that assembly. There is no burned wiring at the climate control head (manual dual zone), resistor pack or blower motor. Ground at the resistor pack tests good (zero ohms resistance between it and unpainted body metal). Volt meter shows 11.5 volts at blower motor terminals with motor unplugged and meter connected when control is cycled through the first four positions. Meter shows 11.8 volts at the highest fan speed position. (Engine was not running during these tests.) I can't imagine the blower motor itself is bad. I'd expect it to overheat, blow fuses or not get up to speed if it was bad. It doesn't have a lot of inertia when spun by hand, but I don't know if a "known good" fan motor would be different. There is no unusual noise from the blower assembly that would suggest a bad bearing. I noticed yesterday upon shifting into four wheel drive mode (floor mounted shift setup) that the four wheel drive symbol in the instrument cluster did not light (despite the truck very clearly being in 4WD mode) and the ABS/brake failure lights once again came on. This really seems to me like it should be a ground problem, but I sure haven't found a bad ground. Any thoughts? Help would be greatly appreciated--driving around with the blower on high all the time is getting old! William
The problem is not in the main battery cables since the engines spins good when it starts. The problem is in the secondary electricial (acessorises) system that feeds the PDC (fuse block under hood). The cable that feeds the fuse block comes from the 175amp fuse that is on the firewall next to the battery. The positive cable feeds this and the starter. A bad connection here will cause the dood locks to cycle and all acessories including the headlamps to go dead. The problem is in the connection under the fuse block. The red power wire is connected to the box when the fuse block is locked in the retaining box. It has a knife edge that inserts into the connector when the box is locked. Inside the connector is a double wedge insert that tightens around the knife edge when installing. Problem is the insert folds under the edge causing a poor connection. The hotter the weather and the high use of electrical compontants will triger an overload on this connector. Since it is hid, you can't feel the extra heat on the connector. Checking a voltage drop from the cable to the fused block will verify the problem Remove the fuse block and the cable with the end. Remove the cover off the end and the lookm closely at the insert. It should look the same on both sides. Once you remove the insert, the problem in obvious. I have worked on three of these trucks and fixed all three with a new cable. Be careful when you install the fuse block on the new cable. It should lock easy. You can repeat the same problem if not careful.Good luck!
> Well, since the newfangled web forum I posted to hasn't exactly bristling with answers, especially helpful ones, I figured the old tricks were the best and so I have returned. (Amazingly my ISP still has a running news server.) I traded my 2003 Chevrolet S10 for a 2007 Silverado Classic (carryover body style) LT 4X4 pickup truck when the S10 dropped its fuel pump. I decided it had simply fallen apart beyond what I was willing to fix. Everything's been going well with the "new" truck, or rather, it was until a few days ago. The trouble started when the Engine Hours counter in the DIC display reset itself to zero. There's no way to do this manually per the owner's manual, but nothing else was affected at the time. A half hour later, the ABS and Brake Fault lights came on, complete with lots of warning chimes. Not long after this I discovered that the blower fan did not function on any of the first four speeds. The fifth and highest blower speed works fine. All others will provoke the brake system warning lights and chimes at random. They'll also cause the cruise control to lose its speed memory when engaged. It then has to be reset. No fuses are blown. I tried replacing the blower resistor pack to no improvement, thinking it might be an issue with the spike suppression diodes on that assembly. There is no burned wiring at the climate control head (manual dual zone), resistor pack or blower motor. Ground at the resistor pack tests good (zero ohms resistance between it and unpainted body metal). Volt meter shows 11.5 volts at blower motor terminals with motor unplugged and meter connected when control is cycled through the first four positions. Meter shows 11.8 volts at the highest fan speed position. (Engine was not running during these tests.) I can't imagine the blower motor itself is bad. I'd expect it to overheat, blow fuses or not get up to speed if it was bad. It doesn't have a lot of inertia when spun by hand, but I don't know if a "known good" fan motor would be different. There is no unusual noise from the blower assembly that would suggest a bad bearing. I noticed yesterday upon shifting into four wheel drive mode (floor mounted shift setup) that the four wheel drive symbol in the instrument cluster did not light (despite the truck very clearly being in 4WD mode) and the ABS/brake failure lights once again came on. This really seems to me like it should be a ground problem, but I sure haven't found a bad ground. Any thoughts? Help would be greatly appreciated--driving around with the blower on high all the time is getting old! William
strictlyb...@gmail.com
Apr 10, 2016, 5:44:10 PM4/10/16
to
I have a 2005 Silverado no crank no start I change starter checked all fuses and relays nothing has worked gear indicator light is out reverse light does not come on when you try to start it the throttle body clicks the relays in the fuse panel under the hood click but will not engage the starter when trying to jump the new starter with a screwdriver it has power it tries to engage I have change the starter I have changed relays or fuses are good I don't know what to do at this point anybody out there also the check engine light is not illuminated at all on my instrument cluster not when key turned forward it does not display any more like it magically disappeared
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Apr 10, 2016, 9:25:32 PM4/10/16
to
On Sun, 10 Apr 2016 14:44:08 -0700 (PDT),
strictlyb...@gmail.com wrote:
>I have a 2005 Silverado no crank no start I change starter checked all fuses and relays nothing has worked gear indicator light is out reverse light does not come on when you try to start it the throttle body clicks the relays in the fuse panel under the hood click but will not engage the starter when trying to jump the new starter with a screwdriver it has power it tries to engage I have change the starter I have changed relays or fuses are good I don't know what to do at this point anybody out there also the check engine light is not illuminated at all on my instrument cluster not when key turned forward it does not display any more like it magically disappeared
Take it to a dealer. You have already spent more that it would have
strictlyb...@gmail.com wrote:
>I have a 2005 Silverado no crank no start I change starter checked all fuses and relays nothing has worked gear indicator light is out reverse light does not come on when you try to start it the throttle body clicks the relays in the fuse panel under the hood click but will not engage the starter when trying to jump the new starter with a screwdriver it has power it tries to engage I have change the starter I have changed relays or fuses are good I don't know what to do at this point anybody out there also the check engine light is not illuminated at all on my instrument cluster not when key turned forward it does not display any more like it magically disappeared
cost to have the problem diagnosed (and likely fixed). My suspiacion
would be the gearshift postion sensor but do NOT just jump in and
change it without having it properly checked. You could replace every
bolt-on part between the front and rear bumper without finding the
problem
luthe...@gmail.com
Aug 12, 2017, 1:05:35 AM8/12/17
to
Sounds like you did a I'm switch we roo on someone chick. You'll get yours bet that faggot
pdferg...@gmail.com
Dec 10, 2017, 4:16:45 PM12/10/17
to
Do I need to unplug everything to get at it or is there another way to disconnect ,looks like a lot to take off,,cAbles are very tight
pdferg...@gmail.com
Dec 10, 2017, 4:52:18 PM12/10/17
to
Also when I do a drop test, when I remove two fuse that are pulling Amps I still show .86of a amp no other fuses show a drop ,but she's still pull pulling current ,could this b e the positive cable off the mega doing this in the fuse block as well...
pdferg...@gmail.com
Dec 10, 2017, 5:02:10 PM12/10/17
to
When I did my drop test I found the radio and the on star fuse pulling 3/12 amps no other fuses are pulling Amps but there is about.85amps showing to be drowning could this be do to the connection of the mega fuse cable being a bad connection under the fuse block....done a lot to importers not much working ,I could use some help ...my name is Paul
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