HELP!!!! TRIPPED OVER POWER SUPPLY!!!!
Prisoner at War
I have a two year-old Yamaha P-90 and I occasionally trip over the
power supply line. It only happens four times a year or something, so
I've really never thought anything of it.
Today, however, the keyboard wouldn't turn back on when reconnected!!
And it's not the outlet or the extension cord I use, that's for sure
-- so either the AC adapter got messed up, or...my keyboard is toast!!
I looked in the manual but there's no address for a service center at
all! I also tried googling, to no luck so far...the company I bought
the P-90 from, Musician's Friend, doesn't have anything about this
kind of situation in their online FAQ...in a worst-case scenario, what
do I do to get this thing fixed?
I've never had a broken keyboard before...but I suppose any ol'
neighborhood TV repair shop can fix it?? I'm assuming it's an
electronics issue, having to do with sudden loss of power...I don't
understand the physics of it, but it seems to my layman's
sensibilities that that shouldn't be catastrophic at all...I mean,
turning the thing off by hitting the power button is the same as
suddenly unplugging it by tripping over its adapter cord, isn't it???
Any advice, thanks in advance! (Any sarcasm, please be witty at
least.)
James Sweet
"Prisoner at War" <prisone...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:983c7a8d-1846-4aab...@d27g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Is it a switchmode power supply? Often those fail in a way such that they
work fine but can't start up from cold. Often it's dried up capacitors. You
may have also cracked a solder joint or jarred something else loose if the
mechanical shock yanked on the power supply itself or the keyboard. Should
be an easy fix either way for someone who works on electronics.
Arfa Daily
"James Sweet" <james...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jO03j.10152$Mr.3031@trnddc04...
All agreed.
Arfa
tonewheel
This keyboard has an external wall-wart power supply doesn't it? These
are standard Yamaha items - I bet it's one of these:
http://www.dv247.com/invt/8113/
.. or whatever the equivalent is in your country.
I really, really doubt the keyboard itself was damaged, it'll be the
power adapter and while these can be repaired, few people would
bother. Certainly getting someone else to repair it for you would cost
more than the price of a new one.
TWJ
b
> I have a two year-old Yamaha P-90 and I occasionally trip over the
> power supply line. It only happens four times a year or something, so
> I've really never thought anything of it.
well shouldn't that fact have suggested to you that a) you have it in
a bloody stupid place and ought to have moved it /re-routed it after
the first time or b) you should be more careful ? You could have seen
this coming....!
chances are the ac adaptor is a sealed unit you'd be better off buying
another with the same voltage and similar spec. be sure to check the
polarity of the litle plug.
Then route the cable more safely. put a mat over it if need be.
-B
Prisoner at War
>
>
> well shouldn't that fact have suggested to you that a) you have it in
> a bloody stupid place and ought to have moved it /re-routed it after
> the first time or b) you should be more careful ? You could have seen
> this coming....!
Yes, fifty lashes with a wet noodle! Of course I saw it coming, but
it was never much of a problem before, and only happens very rarely.
Main thing is that I live in a typically small and crammed NYC
apartment, with four bicycles, a kayak, some weights and other
miscellaneous exercise equipment, a 52" RPTV, as well as and six six-
foot high bookcases full of, well, books!
> chances are the ac adaptor is a sealed unit you'd be better off buying
> another with the same voltage and similar spec. be sure to check the
> polarity of the litle plug.
I hope it's just the adapter, then...but why would an adapter just
suddenly stop working simply because of being suddenly disconnected??
Of course, I can't imagine why the piano might, either, but that's my
real fear, as it's a ~$1K keyboard....
> Then route the cable more safely. put a mat over it if need be.
I only plug it in when it's actually in use...unfortunately, I get so
lost in my musical revelries sometimes that I forget about the cord
and trip over it on my way to the kitchen!
> -B
Prisoner at War
>
>
> This keyboard has an external wall-wart power supply doesn't it? These
> are standard Yamaha items - I bet it's one of these:http://www.dv247.com/invt/8113/
> .. or whatever the equivalent is in your country.
>
> I really, really doubt the keyboard itself was damaged, it'll be the
> power adapter and while these can be repaired, few people would
> bother. Certainly getting someone else to repair it for you would cost
> more than the price of a new one.
>
> TWJ
Hey man, thanks! I sure hope you're right, and that nothing is wrong
with the keyboard -- but why should any electronics component fail for
sudden loss of power?? I mean, ain't that in effect the same as
turning the thing off...what's the difference between turning
something off and unplugging it???
Prisoner at War
>
>
> Is it a switchmode power supply? Often those fail in a way such that they
> work fine but can't start up from cold. Often it's dried up capacitors. You
> may have also cracked a solder joint or jarred something else loose if the
> mechanical shock yanked on the power supply itself or the keyboard. Should
> be an easy fix either way for someone who works on electronics.
Hopefully nothing's wrong with the keyboard at all, and hopefully it's
simply an easy fix if so...I guess the first order of business would
be to get a new adapter and see if maybe -- hopefully -- that isn't
the matter...I don't know whether I have a switchmode power supply
(whatever that is) or what, but I can't help but get
hysterical...electronics are always failing on me for one reason or
another: sometimes for no reason at all! For example, I typically get
only a year or two of use out of any DVD Player I've ever owned before
they one day just stop working, either properly or at all! And lately
I've got two discs which simply won't play anymore, despite my not
having played the movies in months, and their surfaces being in
pristine condition....
James Sweet
Don't focus on the loss of power, you tripped over the cord, the mechanical
yank probably broke a wire.
Ouroboros_Rex
I do that routinely, and it took an $11,000 broken elbow to make me quit
it and buy a $9 length of cable cover. Don't be me.
Re: your problem: it wasn't just a disconnection, it was probably a
healthy yank too. Check to see if your adapter produces power. If not, get
another power supply. If so, it's probably the power jack on the keyboard,
these can usually be replaced if you can find one. Once I had to use a
different type and cut a hole in the case for it and run wires to it from
the PC board - worked fine.
If the jack tests OK, look for built-in fuses or fusible links on the PC
board or power circuits. It is somewhat possible your disconnection
generated a power spike.
Prisoner at War
>
>
> I do that routinely, and it took an $11,000 broken elbow to make me quit
> it and buy a $9 length of cable cover. Don't be me.
Yikes! Well, thanks, I certainly learned my lesson now!
Just curious...how did an elbow wind up costing $11K?? I ask 'cause
I've developed golf and tennis elbows in my left arm -- from weight-
lifting!
> Re: your problem: it wasn't just a disconnection, it was probably a
> healthy yank too. Check to see if your adapter produces power. If not, get
> another power supply.
Yep, I'm going to ask one of the handymen where I work for a voltage
meter tomorrow....
> If so, it's probably the power jack on the keyboard,
> these can usually be replaced if you can find one. Once I had to use a
> different type and cut a hole in the case for it and run wires to it from
> the PC board - worked fine.
You know, I was just wondering...I hope these electric keyboards open
up easily...if it's as you say, perhaps I can do it myself...the
repair shop wants $50 just to diagnose the thing -- and we're not even
talking about a home visit, either!
> If the jack tests OK, look for built-in fuses or fusible links on the PC
> board or power circuits. It is somewhat possible your disconnection
> generated a power spike.
"Built-in fuses"..."fusible links"...you mean, it could just be like a
fuse in the apartment, something I simply switch back to the "on"
position????
Prisoner at War
>
>
> Don't focus on the loss of power, you tripped over the cord, the mechanical
> yank probably broke a wire.
Hmm, good point...so it's a physical disruption of some part or other,
you say...any idea which wire?? Well, hopefully it's the adapter,
somehow...though the lil' brick looks fine...I'm going to borrow a
voltage meter at work tomorrow and see how that goes...do you think
it's an either/or situation -- either the adapter or the keyboard, or
that it could be both?
Damn, sure wish I had electronics shop class in high school!
James Sweet
> Hmm, good point...so it's a physical disruption of some part or other,
> you say...any idea which wire?? Well, hopefully it's the adapter,
> somehow...though the lil' brick looks fine...I'm going to borrow a
> voltage meter at work tomorrow and see how that goes...do you think
> it's an either/or situation -- either the adapter or the keyboard, or
> that it could be both?
>
> Damn, sure wish I had electronics shop class in high school!
Others have already suggested the solution multiple times. Either the wire
is broken in the adapter cord, something broke within the adapter itself, or
the power jack on the keyboard got yanked and cracked the solder there.
Anyone with basic soldering skills can fix this for you, if you take the
whole mess to a shop it should be under 100 bucks and it'll be good as new.
Jeff Liebermann
>I have a two year-old Yamaha P-90 and I occasionally trip over the
>power supply line.
(...)
>Any advice, thanks in advance! (Any sarcasm, please be witty at
>least.)
1. Buy, borrow, or steal a really cheap DVM (digital voltmeter). Test
if the power supply is generating whatever it says on the label. Don't
be suprised if it produces more than the nameplate voltage rating.
The cords and connectors on such "wall warts" frequently fail when
mechanically stressed. If nothing is coming out of the power supply,
find the break or find a replacement power supply.
2. Buy, borrow, or steal a flashlight. Look carefully inside the
power connector on the Yamaha and see if it's broken. Carefully and
gently wiggle the center pin from side to side. If it moves
excessively, then the connector is broken. That's an easy repair if
you know what you're doing. If not, find someone who can open the
Yahmaha and also knows which end of the soldering iron to grab. The
hard part is finding a replacement connector. If you're lucky, you
may be able to glue the broken plastic parts of the connector back
together.
3. Buy, borrow, steal, or build a right angle power extension cable
or adapter for your power supply. You don't really need it to operate
the keyboard, but if you decide to again fumble over the cord, the
connector will unplug itself at the junction between the wall wart
power connector, and the adapter. The idea is to NOT put any sideways
torque on the power connector on the Yamaha keyboard. If you can't
buy, borrow, steal, or build one, simply replacing the straight
connector on the power supply, with a right angle version, is possibly
sufficient to minimize any connector damage. If that's also too much,
install some kind of easy to disconnect two pin connector in the power
cord, so that it disconnects when you trip over it. It's also
possible to attach a service loop at the power connector. However, if
you do that, and trip over the cord, the keyboard is likely to get
dumped on the floor.
4. You also install the "trip over the cord disconnect" at the 117VAC
end. See:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/wall-wart-01.html>
for how I do it. If I trip over one of the cords, it either unplugs,
or destroys the power strip, possibly starting a fire.
5. I have a policy of avoiding cords on the floor. Eveything is
either tangled in a Gordian Knot behind the computahs and MIDI mess,
or laying in a plastic wire tray at the back of the workbench. The
problem is not just tripping over the power cord. It's shredding the
cable with the vacuum cleaner, getting it chewed by the cat, or just
kicking the power strip when I'm sitting at the bench. It also looks
nicer. Google for "cable organizer".
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Ouroboros_Rex
> On Nov 28, 1:48 pm, "Ouroboros_Rex" <i...@casual.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I do that routinely, and it took an $11,000 broken elbow to make me
>> quit
>> it and buy a $9 length of cable cover. Don't be me.
>
> Yikes! Well, thanks, I certainly learned my lesson now!
>
> Just curious...how did an elbow wind up costing $11K?? I ask 'cause
> I've developed golf and tennis elbows in my left arm -- from weight-
> lifting!
>
>> Re: your problem: it wasn't just a disconnection, it was probably a
>> healthy yank too. Check to see if your adapter produces power. If not,
>> get
>> another power supply.
>
> Yep, I'm going to ask one of the handymen where I work for a voltage
> meter tomorrow....
Just take in the supply. =)
>
>> If so, it's probably the power jack on the keyboard,
>> these can usually be replaced if you can find one. Once I had to use a
>> different type and cut a hole in the case for it and run wires to it from
>> the PC board - worked fine.
>
> You know, I was just wondering...I hope these electric keyboards open
> up easily...if it's as you say, perhaps I can do it myself...the
> repair shop wants $50 just to diagnose the thing -- and we're not even
> talking about a home visit, either!
They do not necessarily open easily, and all sorts of panel buttons and
other bits can fall out if you're not careful. You can also static shock
things into scrap status. If you don't have skills in this area, it's
probably best to pay the piper here.
>
>> If the jack tests OK, look for built-in fuses or fusible links on the
>> PC
>> board or power circuits. It is somewhat possible your disconnection
>> generated a power spike.
>
> "Built-in fuses"..."fusible links"...you mean, it could just be like a
> fuse in the apartment, something I simply switch back to the "on"
> position????
No, it would be something that turned black, or looked like a blown fuse,
or popped up or whatnot, which you would probably have to desolder and
replace, or bridge (not recommended.)
Old Apple II disk drives used a hex buffer chip as a 'fuse'. it was just
a standard part and did not discolor, so sometimes these simply can't be
seen.
Ouroboros_Rex
> On Nov 28, 1:48 pm, "Ouroboros_Rex" <i...@casual.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I do that routinely, and it took an $11,000 broken elbow to make me
>> quit
>> it and buy a $9 length of cable cover. Don't be me.
>
> Yikes! Well, thanks, I certainly learned my lesson now!
>
> Just curious...how did an elbow wind up costing $11K??
Missed this one - a screw and several pins, IIRC.
HellPopeHuey
> They do not necessarily open easily, and all sorts of panel buttons and
> other bits can fall out if you're not careful. You can also static shock
> things into scrap status. If you don't have skills in this area, it's
> probably best to pay the piper here.
I introduced myself to the engineer at a radio station where I worked
by saying "I have a rule about engineers." He said "What's that?" I said
"I believe in all but kissing their asses, because they actually keep
things GOING and can pull you out of the fire when no one else knows
squat." He grinned widely, something I came to learn he didn't do often.
I once had a synth repairman in Houston do me a serious solid because
I'd given him a ride and an extension on a repair because The Unforeseen
hit him amidships at a clumsy moment.
The main thing I know about soldering irons is that they belong in the
hands of people who know which end to touch to the solder, eh? I'm not
one of them. I can replace a washer, do spark plugs and play synth, but
I have the tech skills of Mom's little hairbag of a dawg Peeky. It seems
natural to show added regard for those who make it possible for you to
keep your music going.
Don't just respect a good tech; grease the wheels a little as you go.
You always remember a kick in the slats, sure, but a kind word can have
longer legs by comparison. That goes double when a guy takes part of his
day off to dig you a replacement disk drive out of his shop so you can
play a club that evening. Now THAT was a real Moog moment.. a BOB Moog
sort of thing, because his heart was in it, so he UNDERSTOOD. There ya go.
--
HellPope Huey
I feel like an iguana lizard
being mailed cross-country
in a cardboard box
Everything you can imagine is real.
~ Pablo Ruiz y Picasso
"Where you going?"
"With any luck, forward."
~ "Ratatouille"
HapticZ
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
pick up your feet! don't slouch! dont mumble! quit drinking! get some
rugs to cover the cords!
;-))
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Prisoner at War
>
>
> Others have already suggested the solution multiple times.
Yes, I see those messages now.
> Either the wire
> is broken in the adapter cord, something broke within the adapter itself, or
> the power jack on the keyboard got yanked and cracked the solder there.
> Anyone with basic soldering skills can fix this for you, if you take the
> whole mess to a shop it should be under 100 bucks and it'll be good as new.
Yep, one authorized service provider wants $50 just to take a look --
though it'll be applied to any fixing that might need to be done.
I just used a voltage meter on the adapter, and sure enough, it
doesn't register a current! Hopefully, that's the full extent of my
problem...thanks again for the advice.
Prisoner at War
LOL...yeah, I guess we can have a little black market going here, with
me passing out office supplies and the tradesmen passing out tools and
small hardware....
> They do not necessarily open easily, and all sorts of panel buttons and
> other bits can fall out if you're not careful. You can also static shock
> things into scrap status. If you don't have skills in this area, it's
> probably best to pay the piper here.
Ah, okay, understood! I can open up my computer and install any
hardware, so I was wondering if my electric piano situation might be
similar...guess not; thanks for the advice!
> No, it would be something that turned black, or looked like a blown fuse,
> or popped up or whatnot, which you would probably have to desolder and
> replace, or bridge (not recommended.)
>
> Old Apple II disk drives used a hex buffer chip as a 'fuse'. it was just
> a standard part and did not discolor, so sometimes these simply can't be
> seen.
Okay, one last question...'cause I'm really curious, due to electronic
gadgets failing on me all these years (and I'm not talking about
tripping over them, either, like with my piano here)...any
recommendations for a good Electronic Repair 101 book?? I mean,
geared towards complete newbies who probably haven't even heard of
static electricity....
Prisoner at War
Good reminder...I don't begrudge mechanics and engineers their money
for their miracles...I just often get the feeling that I'm being
charged an arm and a leg for the equivalent of taking half a minute to
plug in a twenty-five cent part...but I understand they have rent and
utilities to pay for, etc.
Anyway, hopefully it's just the adapter at fault, a broken wire in it
(the electrician was actually trying to feel for the location of the
break by running his fingers along the line!), since it's what I'd
really tripped over...the jack -- "male end" -- in the keyboard, where
the adapter cord plugs into, looks fine...hopefully there isn't some
kind of crack on it or anywhere else...we'll see in another week when
the replacement adapter arrives...in the meantime, just another excuse
to goof off and not practice piano! =P
Thanks again to all for their input; I'm truly grateful for the hand-
holding.
Prisoner at War
>
>
> XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
>
> pick up your feet! don't slouch! dont mumble! quit drinking! get some
> rugs to cover the cords!
>
> ;-))
>
> XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Ah, you almost sound like my old piano teacher!!
Prisoner at War
>
>
> 1. Buy, borrow, or steal a really cheap DVM (digital voltmeter). Test
> if the power supply is generating whatever it says on the label. Don't
> be suprised if it produces more than the nameplate voltage rating.
> The cords and connectors on such "wall warts" frequently fail when
> mechanically stressed. If nothing is coming out of the power supply,
> find the break or find a replacement power supply.
The electrician at my job applied his voltage meter to the adapter
this morning, and it read exactly "zero." Another adapter registered
seventeen-point-something, so my adapter is dead for sure.
Interestingly, the electrician hypothesized that a wire had been
broken and tried to feel for the break by running his fingers along
the cord. Finding nothing, he thinks it may be something in the brick
itself.
I've just ordered a new power supply. I hope that's the only problem!
> 2. Buy, borrow, or steal a flashlight. Look carefully inside the
> power connector on the Yamaha and see if it's broken. Carefully and
> gently wiggle the center pin from side to side. If it moves
> excessively, then the connector is broken. That's an easy repair if
> you know what you're doing. If not, find someone who can open the
> Yahmaha and also knows which end of the soldering iron to grab. The
> hard part is finding a replacement connector. If you're lucky, you
> may be able to glue the broken plastic parts of the connector back
> together.
Hmmm, I'll try this tonight...I don't think I can see a break on the
"jack" (or "male end") itself, given that it's recessed in a little
hole, even with a flashlight, but I'll give it a gentle wiggle to see
if anything's amiss.
I sure hope not. Is there a God of Electronics and an appropriate
prayer for this occasion?
> 3. Buy, borrow, steal, or build a right angle power extension cable
> or adapter for your power supply. You don't really need it to operate
> the keyboard, but if you decide to again fumble over the cord, the
> connector will unplug itself at the junction between the wall wart
> power connector, and the adapter. The idea is to NOT put any sideways
> torque on the power connector on the Yamaha keyboard. If you can't
> buy, borrow, steal, or build one, simply replacing the straight
> connector on the power supply, with a right angle version, is possibly
> sufficient to minimize any connector damage. If that's also too much,
> install some kind of easy to disconnect two pin connector in the power
> cord, so that it disconnects when you trip over it. It's also
> possible to attach a service loop at the power connector. However, if
> you do that, and trip over the cord, the keyboard is likely to get
> dumped on the floor.
Already done! I've bought an articulated adapter for the wall outlet,
though that's not really the most proximate cause of this current
situation. Interesting ideas you have, though...an easy-to-disconnect
two-pin connector, eh?
Main thing I'll do from here on out is get a cable rug to place over
the adapter cord...hopefully I don't trip over the rug, too! Well,
actually, best thing would be to move the piano closer to the wall
outlet when in use....
> 4. You also install the "trip over the cord disconnect" at the 117VAC
> end. See:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/wall-wart-01.html>
> for how I do it. If I trip over one of the cords, it either unplugs,
> or destroys the power strip, possibly starting a fire.
?
> 5. I have a policy of avoiding cords on the floor. Eveything is
> either tangled in a Gordian Knot behind the computahs and MIDI mess,
> or laying in a plastic wire tray at the back of the workbench. The
> problem is not just tripping over the power cord. It's shredding the
> cable with the vacuum cleaner, getting it chewed by the cat, or just
> kicking the power strip when I'm sitting at the bench. It also looks
> nicer. Google for "cable organizer".
I don't want to rearrange my whole apartment around the keyboard, so
I'll just have to schlepp it back and forth closer to the outlet (all
others are full of different devices as it is; this particular one is
actually dedicated to the keyboard, but it's furtherest away from
where the keyboard normally resides)...I think I need a new job to get
a new apartment...but then I'll simply fill that one up, too, like a
cluttered hard drive....
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Prisoner at War
>
>
> Missed this one - a screw and several pins, IIRC.
Good grief! Take one of them "medical tours" to Thailand next
time...much cheaper, and you get a vacation package thrown in the
deal. Some unions even sponsor that for their members who need major
surgery!
I take it that elbow surgery has had no adverse effects on your piano-
playing...good.
James Sweet
>
> Yep, one authorized service provider wants $50 just to take a look --
> though it'll be applied to any fixing that might need to be done.
>
Well it's the sort of thing that's certainly repairable, so I wouldn't worry
about the diagnostic fee.
> I just used a voltage meter on the adapter, and sure enough, it
> doesn't register a current! Hopefully, that's the full extent of my
> problem...thanks again for the advice.
Assuming you used the meter correctly then yes, in your case the first thing
to do is get a new adapter.
James Sweet
>
> Interestingly, the electrician hypothesized that a wire had been
> broken and tried to feel for the break by running his fingers along
> the cord. Finding nothing, he thinks it may be something in the brick
> itself.
>
It's very likely in the brick itself, if it hit the floor, it probably
cracked the circuit board inside or physically broke the fuse.
Jeff Liebermann
>The electrician at my job applied his voltage meter to the adapter
>this morning, and it read exactly "zero." Another adapter registered
>seventeen-point-something, so my adapter is dead for sure.
Congrats. That should be an easy fix.
>Interestingly, the electrician hypothesized that a wire had been
>broken and tried to feel for the break by running his fingers along
>the cord. Finding nothing, he thinks it may be something in the brick
>itself.
That sometimes works. Most of the dead wall warts I've dissected have
breaks inside the molded connector due to lousy soldering. You can
sometimes find the break using a Christmas tree lamp broken wire
finder if the adapter has an AC output. That doesn't work with a DC
adapter.
>I've just ordered a new power supply. I hope that's the only problem!
(...)
>I sure hope not. Is there a God of Electronics and an appropriate
>prayer for this occasion?
Sorta. Just send me a substantial contribution via Paypal at the
address below, and I'll petition a variety of dieties for a favorable
troubleshooting outcome. However, the gods seem to be out of service
as I'm having difficulties repairing some test equipment, where even
the sacred 4 letter words have no effect. You can probably do as well
yourself by immolating the wall wart on a suitable altar (hibacci will
do), where the resultant smog is allegedly pleasing to the gods.
>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/wall-wart-01.html>
>?
Don't ask.
>I don't want to rearrange my whole apartment around the keyboard, so
>I'll just have to schlepp it back and forth closer to the outlet (all
>others are full of different devices as it is
Find an AC extension cord or power strip. When you trip over that
heavy cord, it will either unplug from the AC outlet, or fatally
injure yourself.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
krw
@n20g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>, prisone...@yahoo.com says...
<snip>
>
> Good reminder...I don't begrudge mechanics and engineers their money
> for their miracles...I just often get the feeling that I'm being
> charged an arm and a leg for the equivalent of taking half a minute to
> plug in a twenty-five cent part...but I understand they have rent and
> utilities to pay for, etc.
You're not. You're paying an arm and a leg because they *know* which
twenty-five cent part to replace. They replace it free. ;-)
--
Keith
hooch
> On Nov 28, 5:09 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > 1. Buy, borrow, or steal a really cheap DVM (digital voltmeter). Test
> > if the power supply is generating whatever it says on the label. Don't
> > be suprised if it produces more than the nameplate voltage rating.
> > The cords and connectors on such "wall warts" frequently fail when
> > mechanically stressed. If nothing is coming out of the power supply,
> > find the break or find a replacement power supply.
>
> The electrician at my job applied his voltage meter to the adapter
> this morning, and it read exactly "zero." Another adapter registered
> seventeen-point-something, so my adapter is dead for sure.
>
> Interestingly, the electrician hypothesized that a wire had been
> broken and tried to feel for the break by running his fingers along
> the cord. Finding nothing, he thinks it may be something in the brick
> itself.
More often than not, the break is at the point where the wire enters
the brick.
Which is why it's not a good idea to wrap the wire tightly around the
brick when storing adapters.
JW
id: <MPG.21b91eaa9...@news.individual.net>:
And you're paying for the time it takes to figure out *which* twenty-five
cent part needs replacing.
Ouroboros_Rex
> On Nov 28, 5:40 pm, "Ouroboros_Rex" <i...@casual.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Missed this one - a screw and several pins, IIRC.
>
>
> Good grief! Take one of them "medical tours" to Thailand next
> time...much cheaper, and you get a vacation package thrown in the
> deal. Some unions even sponsor that for their members who need major
> surgery!
It's hard to get to thailand with a broken elbow. As it is, I had to wait
till morning in excruciating pain, get my pants halfway zipped because I
couldn't snap them, pull on a t shirt I cut with scissors on that side,
drive seven miles into town, and stroll into the hospital like that with a
pillow under the bad arm and unsuccessfully holding my pants up with the
other one.
Get the cable cover. =)
>
> I take it that elbow surgery has had no adverse effects on your piano-
> playing...good.
Oh heck, I run a giant Reaktor setup with three 19" touchscreens, I hardly
ever touch the keyboard. =)
Ouroboros_Rex
> On Nov 28, 5:36 pm, "Ouroboros_Rex" <i...@casual.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Just take in the supply. =)
>
> LOL...yeah, I guess we can have a little black market going here, with
> me passing out office supplies and the tradesmen passing out tools and
> small hardware....
>
>> They do not necessarily open easily, and all sorts of panel buttons and
>> other bits can fall out if you're not careful. You can also static shock
>> things into scrap status. If you don't have skills in this area, it's
>> probably best to pay the piper here.
>
> Ah, okay, understood! I can open up my computer and install any
> hardware, so I was wondering if my electric piano situation might be
> similar...guess not; thanks for the advice!
No, it is similar, as long as you don't have to solder. Ground yourself
with a strap or through a 10 meg resistor, look things over well to see what
position it should be in when you open it, make sure NOTHING gets away and
goes bouncing off under the couch when you hatch it open (dark towels help
here), take pictures to help with reassembly if you have to do anything
fancy, and always take notes and use parts cups or mugs.
Frankly, you shouldn't have to bother with most of that, those are just
the general rules. The biggest drawback to doing your own work is the
potential to make things worse. I tried to add an external filter input to
an Arp Odyssey in 1983 and fried it irreparably with one wrong move.
>
>> No, it would be something that turned black, or looked like a blown
>> fuse,
>> or popped up or whatnot, which you would probably have to desolder and
>> replace, or bridge (not recommended.)
>>
>> Old Apple II disk drives used a hex buffer chip as a 'fuse'. it was
>> just
>> a standard part and did not discolor, so sometimes these simply can't be
>> seen.
>
> Okay, one last question...'cause I'm really curious, due to electronic
> gadgets failing on me all these years (and I'm not talking about
> tripping over them, either, like with my piano here)...any
> recommendations for a good Electronic Repair 101 book?? I mean,
> geared towards complete newbies who probably haven't even heard of
> static electricity....
Not really. There are probably good ones. I took an electricity class in
high school, and built a bunch of kits.
There is, however, a sci.electronics.repair group.
HapticZ
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