Need tips on painting gijoe figures
Serial # 19781010
I've given up hope of ever getting a crimson strike team set and quite
frankly I wouldn't want all those figs anyway. I'm just looking for a
few crimson vipers. But I have 3 or 4 vipers right here from the
mirage/viper 2 pack and was thinking of simply painting them myself to
match the crimson vipers. Can anyone give me some tips on how to
paint these kind of figures accureately? Thanks.
Ron
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D6E6A6D
hobby stores, it's japanese.
if you use oil based paints like testors you will creeate an organic chemical
reaction in which the solvents in the oil paint will dissolve your plastic
toys.
use small brushes and try fine tip permanent markers.
don't use paint markers for same reason as above.
use plenty of tape, etc. to isolate specific areas without overlapping onto
areas you do not wish to paint.
<A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/d6e6a6d/index.html">http://hometown.aol.com/
d6e6a6d/index.html</A>
Corey Stinson
>use only acrylic based paints such as tamiya available in plastic model and
>hobby stores, it's japanese.
>if you use oil based paints like testors you will creeate an organic chemical
>reaction in which the solvents in the oil paint will dissolve your plastic
>toys.
Err, is this a slight exaggeration or are we talking over the long
term (i.e. 10-20 years)?
I have always done custom figures with oil-based Testors and haven't
had any trouble. Now, I won't argue that this method is better than
acrylic but I do have a number of custom figures that are going on 8
years old and are not showing problems.
--
Corey Stinson
<co...@smalljoes.noamspay.com>
To contact me by email, take the word 'noamspay' out of my email address!
EVILFACE
a jar enamel is good for the metallics.
EVILFACE
"If you're on my path...you better look dead"
Check out all of Evilface's, Zarana-X's, Livevil's and Humvee's customs at:
http://www.evilface.com
Corey Stinson
>I prefer to use water based acrylics from Badgers and Testors. Testors cheap $1
>a jar enamel is good for the metallics.
>
>
>EVILFACE
For those of you who have used both oil-based and acrylic, do you feel
that:
- acrylic provides better coverage, especially bright colors over
dark?
- acrylic can be painted on in thin layers as with oil-based
preserving sculpt details?
Serial # 19781010
>I prefer to use water based acrylics from Badgers and Testors. Testors cheap $1
>a jar enamel is good for the metallics.
I just painted my extra MOBAT glossy black. It looks killer!! I
can't wait for it to dry so I can apply the second coat. I already
have sticker sheets ready to use for it. There aren't sticker sheets
available for the sears cat tank (pipe dream hehe) so I took some
of the available cobra vehicle sticker sheets and mixed and matched
them and gave them all a black background. I have these sheets of
sticker paper that are full size sheets of 8 ˝ by 11 that have a
peel-away back that I use for stickers. Office Supply type stores are
great for finding stuff like that.
EVILFACE
dark?
- acrylic can be painted on in thin layers as with oil-based
preserving sculpt details? >>
The water based acrylics give a much better even coverage on any color. And the
level of detail is far better than those of enamel and oil based which
generally go on too thick.
For vehicles, good ol 99 cent Krylon works great.
the ARROW
"Corey Stinson" <co...@smalljoes.noamspay.com> wrote in message
news:3d59754c....@news.kc.sbcglobal.net...
>
> For those of you who have used both oil-based and acrylic, do you feel
> that:
>
> - acrylic provides better coverage, especially bright colors over
> dark?
Yes, same as enamel based paints. The key to good coverage of light shades
is a simply trick.
Start with a white, or very light, undercoat. That's it. You can get a good
bright yellow, or red without the typical black muddiness showing through.
The key is a good solid undercoat. White or light shades like a very pale
grey or primer colour tend to provide decent colours over dark but be
prepared to do multiple coats. Airbrush or spary can are usually best for
the undercoat application. Also the quality of the underocat affects the
final paint app, that is the less imperfections in the undercoat the better
to the final paints apps will be.
>
> - acrylic can be painted on in thin layers as with oil-based
> preserving sculpt details?
Yes, the paint consistency can be doctored with cutters that can adjust the
paint viscosity just like oil/enamels. Some use plain ol' tap water, others
swear by distilled water, others claim de-natured alchohol works best.
Experiment on junk until you find the technique that works for you.
Best paints I've seenre Tamiya, Citadel, and Apple barrel style paints. The
best way to use any is to transfer the paint to a palette and add water or
cutters on the palette, and cover the source jar so it won't dry out.
Also, don't use untried paint on your prize peice. Experiment as before on
junk, and hone your skills on that because it doesn't count like your prize
item. Standard modelmaking tips apply here.
--Ken
Zarana-X
Um, yeah. What he just said.
Where are you getting Krylon for 99 cents?
Cheapest I've ever seen it is $2.**.
I've bought some of that .89 and .99 cent paint at Wally World, but
its total shit, unsuitable for any use I have.
Some other tips I've found; Don't paint if you're in a hurry, angry,
have had alchohol, or too much caffeine. Buy some quality sable
brushes. The plastic ones that come with the Testors kits suck, and
are for kids with low expectations who are probably going to ruin the
brushes anyway.
Corey Stinson
><< - acrylic provides better coverage, especially bright colors over
>dark?
>
>- acrylic can be painted on in thin layers as with oil-based
>preserving sculpt details? >>
>
>
>The water based acrylics give a much better even coverage on any color. And the
>level of detail is far better than those of enamel and oil based which
>generally go on too thick.
Are acrylics more or less inclined to have the paint chip off?
EVILFACE
MUCH less pron to chipping,
Corey Stinson
><< Are acrylics more or less inclined to have the paint chip off? >>
>
>MUCH less pron to chipping,
>
Okay, I'm sold. :)
..anyone want to buy some old, half dried, testors? :)
Crimson*
when I'm done I apply a coat or two of clear-coat to protect them. I, too,
am getting into customizing my Joes. How practical is it to use clear-coat
on the paintjob when your're done? Would all the moving parts make it a
null point?
EVILFACE
They are pretty fun to blow up with blackcats >=)
EVILFACE
on the paintjob when your're done? Would all the moving parts make it a
null point? >>
I dont use any clear on figures. Just on vehicles that I've made decals for.