NS yesterday -- 12/30/09 (gray)
Neal Miyake
Winds were variable, sometimes coming from the west (bad for the NS).
It was totally overcast and gray with a bit of drizzle. As for the
surf, we were in a nadir between two swells, so surf was relatively
small.
Regardless of all that, I cherished getting out into the water. It was
therapeutic for the mind, body, and spirit. It was also necessary for
me to go back to the scene of my injury--back to OTW.
Even in challenging conditions, there are always opportunities for
surf photos. After all, we don't always partake in our surfing
experience in frontlit offshore conditions. Took the fisheye out and
tried getting a little creative.
Local shaper Wade Tokoro seems to always be out wheneve I go out to
Pipeline. He is highly respected not just as a shaper but as an
underground Pipe charger.
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/photos/2009/091230_gray/091230_01.jpg
Nice talking story with old acquaintance Gavin Sutherland. He's an
aerial specialist, nowadays working hard with his dad Jock. Gavin was
awkwardly riding a 7'6", and he barely made this late drop, sliding
out a bit at the bottom.
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/photos/2009/091230_gray/091230_06.jpg
Backdoor is such a beautiful wave. Scary though, sitting on the inside
trying to be in the right position. Doesn't look it but this one is
easily 4' (8'+ on the face). I'm still scared and respectful of this
wave.
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/photos/2009/091230_gray/091230_09.jpg
It's tough taking off at Backdoor
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/photos/2009/091230_gray/091230_16.jpg
This guy was having fun with some old school boogie moves.
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/photos/2009/091230_gray/091230_19.jpg
Mark Cunningham from a different perspective. His tall, lanky body
"fits" nicely into the curve of the wave.
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/photos/2009/091230_gray/091230_20.jpg
There were two longboarders out who were signing with each other.
Maybe deaf surfers? This guy was a pretty stylish rider.
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/photos/2009/091230_gray/091230_24.jpg
neo
Surfer Bob
Dig the gray light- makes smallish HI look a little like good CA.
That first shot especially- very atmospheric.
Glad to see that Mark Cunningham is still on the job. He's been a
legend for several decades.
Happy New Year to the islands crew! Do your PT religiously and you'll
be back in the groove.
Surfer Bob