Wait, what am I saying? It was fun to surf!!
http://the_urchin.home.comcast.net/photos/ri8.html
Head-high+ S swell coming to my town on Tuesday. It's going to be a
good weekend thinking about that.
-jw
I agree.
>>He's going to get shut down if he goes left.
He is already shut down.
>>If he can go right he'll get a little ride. I forget exactly what happened.
He is already shut down.
From my view if this guy was really about riding that wave he would already
going in one direction or another. Or he would be leaned way over bottom
turning by the moment of the shot.
Gleshna
Overheard at 2004 ESA Northeastern Regional Surf Contest:
"F%&*, I got beaten by a guy from the Great Lakes!"
I surf there and other area spots year-round and have for eight years
since moving back to the area from SF. I'm no life-long RI local
(originally from Boston area), but it's where I plan to stay.
Sadly, gone are the days of solo sessions at Mary's Bar (the point).
But I've been out there in January in clean head-high+ and 150yd.+
lefts with only four or five others on the peak, which isn't bad.
Everybody gets waves...
And long live the O.M., the best little bar/restaurant/live music
venue in the Eastern half of the U.S.! :)
-jw
This would have been an improvement compared to the slop I've been
surfing in the last couple days-which was an improvement over the
basically unridable slop we've had since last weekend.
It certainly has been smaller here much of the past month. The last
true head-high+ day was in May!? Flat, even for here this time of
year. Should be head-high longish period wind swell (9sec+???).
Longish period wind swell meaning not getting into the double digits,
which gets into groundswell for the little North Atlantic (12 -
16sec).
The waves in the pix above were actually pretty nice, clean and a
little punch here and there. Not really small summer slop, but
smallish summer wind swell that can be fun, especially in the middle
of a flat spell.
I remember from when I lived in SF (1990 - 1995), Ocean Beach would be
blown out and unrideable for long periods in the summer. I didn't surf
out there a lot, but rode my first waves out there and surfed, or
attepted to at OB and Pacifica a few times over the years out there. I
got my ass handed to me in Pacifica once in overhead waves at a reef
break down that way. I was on a vintage shortboard that I was
borrowing, and couldn't really surf it at my ability level. But I
stayed out of people's way. I had one of the worst pitched by the
lip/wipe-out/hold downs of my life there (and I've had a few doozies
in tropical swells here in New England). I only went out at Ocean
Beach on the small days (chest-high or less).
-jw