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@lex

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Apr 8, 2003, 4:41:47 PM4/8/03

Gems... The kind of waves we sketched on our notebook at school... Scored
lots of them... 1,5xOH perfections with matching weather... Exhausted...
Took some pictures quickly before going out, did not shoot the bigger
ones...

http://alex360.free.fr

@lex

Rico®

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Apr 8, 2003, 4:57:45 PM4/8/03

Nize !!

Rico

Address:
Frozen surfless Hell

"@lex" <pors...@yahoo.fr> wrote in message
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Awe F'shore

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Apr 8, 2003, 6:59:23 PM4/8/03

Lookin' real nice there!
Awe

"Rico®" <fba...@attbiteme.com> wrote in message
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@lex

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Apr 9, 2003, 5:41:36 AM4/9/03

Now that I am at work I can take some time to let you know a bit more about
that splendid session of mine yesterday ;-).

When I got to the parking lot and got out of my car I was stunned by what I
saw. There was a long time I had not witnessed such a beautiful scenery, I
guess having a look at my pics only gives you an idea of what it was like.
Perfection. This most easily used word found its true original meaning
yesterday. A surfer's perfection. Waves were peeling on the beach break with
a reef like shape. A right on the right, a left on the left, and a channel
in the middle - when bigger sets were not closing it out. Sun was shining,
off shores were gentle.

After wrestling with myself to allow for 10mn of shooting photos on the
beach, I finally gave up to my surfer part and rushed out there. Water still
quite cold, 11°C, but no gloves nor hood for me, no thanks. I was on it,
figuratively and litterally, actually taking off right after making it back
out. First I spent some time on the rights, got rewarded with plenty of
cover ups and two clean, deep in and outs and consequent air time. Then went
to the lefts, scoring the best barrel of the session on one overhead wave
looking very much like that one http://alex360.free.fr/empty%20left.jpg,
actually I got spat out from that one. Such a fantastic feeling.

After 2h30 of that diet I was throwing out the towel with maybe more than 60
waves under my belt, exhausted by the almost constant paddling. Boy my shape
is getting back for sure!

Complete set of pics to come soon.

@lex