Most beautiful one hour's surf- the whole Freakin' point in three waves

[Surfer Bob]

After several days of solving year end problems at work instead of
surfing great waves (and with a nearly flat weekend in between- Oh
that mean Surf God!), I finally got to the beach with exactly an hour
before sunset when I had to zoom off to the next crucial thing.
Macking good groundswell was actually a little south of due west
(265deg on the Harvest buoy and something like 8 feet at 18 seconds)
and every point in the whole Santa Barbara Channel must be on fire,
but I had no time to drive further west. Everywhere was going off, but
I trotted all the way to the top of the point to paddle out. It's
sunny and oily glassy- about as good as it gets. SMACK! my big toe on
a rock while I'm staring at a beautiful wave- bloody and broken
toenail but metatarsals intact. Oh well...

Combustables was looking like Uluwatu in reverse. Just epic. Sets
about 2x head high pouring through every few minutes. Guys getting
epic rides. Crowd hungry and fired up, but spread out. Just glorious.
Snagged a wide one and rode hundreds of yards to inside Shithouse.
Electric winter sunset is setting up as I checked my watch and fretted
at the time. I felt like I was surfing a heat- "you have to get out of
the water in 8 minutes no matter what..." I paddled just a bit down
point, took a few deep breaths and practiced being in the moment. A
set loomed and I dialed into one deep off the main Freak Peak that
took me to the Sandbar peak. A few more minutes and I picked off a
long wall that took me flying down the long foamy course nearly to the
second staircase down by the pier.

The whole point in 3 waves and this time it's from even further up the
top to even closer to the very bottom. I rode the whitewater in and
trotted off to my car cackling to myself as my final minute ticked
down. Quick change and I zoomed off into the night. Surf mission very
satisfyingly accomplished on a very tight time frame.

Today the surf is somewhere between blown to shit and Victory at Sea.
Dude, you should have been here yesterday...

And I was! (hope you got some at your beach)

AWOOooOOOoOO!!!!
Surfer Bob