"sam" <s...@lasercom.net> wrote in message
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Sam forgot to mention he accidentally poked his cue stick in my good
eye so I was at a slight disadvantage. Hid friend Dennis shoots very
well and I think he scored more shots than Sam. Bravo Dennis
Frank Howe finally showed up after pestering him for a couple of weeks
and from Sams report he shoots lights out.
Nice to meet Dennis and Frank.
Now Sam tells me when he gets his snooker table that table time will
only be 3 bucks an hour per player so he can save up to buy a Perris
cue and a laser guidance system to help with his potting.
Thanks for the nice day everyone.
Don >---trying to unbend my cue
Austin
P.S. Happy Birthday, Sam
"sam" <s...@lasercom.net> wrote in message
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"Austin K. Williams" <AustinW...@compuserve.com> wrote in message
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The British call banks "doubles" and, at top level play, shoot them only in
desperation.
Tom
<snipped rest>
There is a point you may be unaware of, Sam. Height of a snooker table is
part of the rules ... it has a specification.
To wit:
1(b) Height
The height of the table from the floor to the top of the cushion rail shall
be from 2ft 9 1/2in to 2ft 10 1/2 inches(851mm to 876mm).
When I had my table set up, I was amused to see my floor is out a full 3/4in
over the length of the table. The table mechanic split the difference.
That, by the way, is going to be important to you. Find a good table
mechanic that knows snooker tables.
Regarding the bank question, I think there are a couple of answers. The
fact that the side pockets are more open probably has a bigger influence
than anything else. On a snooker table, you have a wider angle of possible
straight in shots. That means that some shots that you can play staight in
on a snooker table have to be banks on a pool table.
The exact opposite is true for the corner pockets. You can shoot a ball down
the rail of a pool table, and have it 1/2in from the rail when it hits the
pocket, and still go in. On a snooker table, being a 1/16 off the rail will
result in a pocket troll tossing it back out on the table.
So I think that the answer to your question is that the nature of the table
affects whether you bank or not more than the nature of the game.
Certainly banks and kicks can be used in both games, and are. Often when
playing the middle of the table, banking rather than shooting straight in
allows you have better control of the cue ball. As Austin has said, the
centerball hit with top or bottom is the mainstay of the table size and ball
size. That means that often you will bank in order to be able to use a
center ball hit, rather than cutting it in and having to bring the cueball
off the rail.
I think you will find that playing games like eightball and pea pool on a
snooker table will change your strategy of playing quite significantly.
Donald
>Question: I find that I am doing more banking (fairly successful) in this
>game than at 8 or 9-ball. Not as much as 1P, but more than I am accustomed
>to as a norm. Is this bad. Do snooker players bank much? Just wondering.
>:o) Sincerely, Sam
I have found and maybe you'll agree that banks are necessary after
being snookered.
Don >---
"Tom Smith" <dial...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
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"Donald Tees" <Donal...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
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Make the easies a bit tougher by shaping slightly away from the A position.
This will put each shot in focus for you and allow you to assess, plan and
execute the pot/shape needed for the next shot. Your mind will be challenged
on each shot rather than building up angst on the final one - remember,
there is only one last shot in snooker - black off its spot at the end of
rotation. This approach will toughen you up technically and, more important,
mentally. It's critical that your confidence level be just as high and your
focus just as sharp shooting a thin angle red with extreme screw as it is
when you're presented with a simple stun off a spotted ž black. Try it.
And what's the deal with positioning? I'm assuming you know where the cue
has to go (slots, blobs, etc.) and you know how to make it get there (stuns,
screws, etc.). What are you having trouble with? If your stuns work on the
10', they work on the 12'. Five minutes of cross-table blue stuns and screws
will give you the 12's "numbers" and recalibrate your spin/speed ratios to
account for cloth, balls, etc. Nice little two minute screw drill is to pop
blue in the side off its spot and screw just to the edge of the near side
pocket. Do it from three or four different distances from blue and you'll
have the "feel" needed for good scoring action in the top-end.
What's Don got wrong and why didn't you fix it?
Banks are great fun on a 12'. But they're more a part of your bag of tricks
than an integral weapon in your scoring arsenal. As someone else pointed
out, they are seldom employed in match-level snooker due to their lower
success rate as compared to the "proper" method of dealing bank-positioned
(ie. railed) balls. The A spots for banks are just off the side rails in the
top end. These are EXACTLY the locations from which you are expected to FREE
the reds off black or blue, not bypass them for open ones and hope to make
them on a bank. Furthermore, since they're already standing a bit off the
cushion, there's little chance of getting the cue caught when you softly
bump them open to the side pockets. The fact that you are doing MORE banking
means you are doing LESS snooker. Get with the program and bump those reds
off the rails during your top end scoring breaks. That's how and why the
pros rarely bank - they work very hard on putting the reds into open play.
Roll up your sleeves, Sam.
Austin
"sam" <s...@lasercom.net> wrote in message
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"Austin K. Williams" <AustinW...@compuserve.com> wrote in message
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> when you're presented with a simple stun off a spotted ¾ black. Try it.