Problem with raccoons
Jennifer Robinson
couple of years using traps, motion sprinklers, lights, repellents, etc to very
limited success. So I guess its either continue suffering serious damage to my
ponds and bird houses or try something else. A friend of mine has a 1000 FPS
airgun that uses .177 pellets. How well would this work to eliminate raccoons?
Where would be the best areas to aim? What shape pellets should I use?
Jen
Joseph Lovell
Jennifer Robinson wrote:
A .177 air rifle won't cut it for racoons. Your best bet would be a .22
bolt action rifle and .22 shorts or CB caps - almost no noise.
If you MUST use an air rifle use a .22, or better yet a .25 and the
heaviest hollowpoint pellets you can find.
As for aim points - any of the softer parts of the head, or try for the
heart.
Jennifer Robinson
Since it is someone elses gun I am stuck with this configuration. It would only
be about a 20-30 foot shot, I have shot it a couple of times in the past at full
2 liter pop bottles at that distance and it makes a serious mess out of them.
What would make the biggest impact, wadcutters, pointed or the round tipped
ones?
Jen
SpentBullet
"Jennifer Robinson" <Je...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3fe67630....@news.isomedia.com...
Jen in my opinion, a .177 is way underpowered for an animal the size of a
raccoon. I also think a .22 bb cap is as well.
If you must use the .177, and are proficient enough to do so, a head shot is
the only humane way of dealing with the problem. attempts a body shots with
a pellet that small and light will almost certainly result in a long and
painful death of the animal. At your mentioned distance of 20 or 30 feet,
either the wadcutter or domed pellet should result in an instantaneous kill.
SB
Jennifer Robinson
Thanks for your response, maybe I have to think about this a bit more. I
certainly don't want to just injure them, that would be worse than doing
nothing. As long as it wouldn't take more than 2 (maybe 3 shots) I am ok with
doing this. Why would a wadcutter or domed pellet work better than one of the
pointed ones? I know that is probably a stupid question but I would think the
pointed one would go in better. Or is it that the pointed ones would pass clean
through and thus not do enough immediate damage to put the animal down quickly?
Jen
Mitch Haley
> As long as it wouldn't take more than 2 (maybe 3 shots) I am ok with
> doing this. Why would a wadcutter or domed pellet work better than one of the
> pointed ones? I know that is probably a stupid question but I would think the
> pointed one would go in better.
If the coon holds still for a 2nd shot, it's probably already dead.
A pointed pellet won't be pointed after it meets with skull. Crosman domes
are quite hard and probably a good bet if you're in the USA. You've been
told to take head shots, not quite correct, you must hit the brain.
With most mammals, a center of head shot gets you cheekbone or sinus
cavity. Your target is in the area between the eyes and ears, pretty
much all brain there. Draw imaginary lines between the right ear and
left eye, and left ear and right eye. Try to put a pellet where the
two lines cross.
Mitch.
Joseph Oberlander
> Jennifer Robinson wrote:
>
>>As long as it wouldn't take more than 2 (maybe 3 shots) I am ok with
>>doing this. Why would a wadcutter or domed pellet work better than one of the
>>pointed ones? I know that is probably a stupid question but I would think the
>>pointed one would go in better.
Raccoons are close to Coyotes in toughness. I'd look into trapping them
(the local Animal Control usually has cages to rent) or a larger caliber
air rifle. The minimum that would be effective, IMO, would be 100 ft-lbs,
or roughly what a full-power .22LR is. Most people would recommend a .22Mag.
But I suspect you are in an urban or semi-rural area where they don't like
guns going off at night. That leaves you with far fewer options.
1: Get a dog. Effective, but high-maintainence. OTOH, they will guard
your yard and be your best friend. :)
2: For the pond, there's not much you can do. For the bird houses,
a wire with 9-12V running through it will keep them off. If it's a
feeder/house(small), you can make a collar on the pole. If it's more
like an aviary, then you'll need to get creative or use heavier mesh
screen. I had a neighbor who made a setup like this - they ditched
the chickenwire and went with a heavy steel screen with 1/4 inch spacing.
3: Quietest, yet somewhat powerful pre-charged air rifle: Air Arms.
These have a built in moderator, which is legal, since it's part of the
barrel itself and it's not a firearm.(ie - you can't remove it or possibly
modify any part of it to use on a firearm) 30 ft-lbs and as quiet as a
8-10ft-lb. spring piston rifle. Shoot the heaviest things you can with it,
within reason. If penetration is a problem, Prometheus makes pellets that
will penetrate like a .22 Short.(acceptable on tough critters).
4: Best value for the money - Quackenbush.
http://www.connext.net/~daq/index.html
The big rifles are comparable to a black poswer rifle of 2/3 the caliber.
Ie - that .50 caliber Bandit is comparable to a .35-.40 caliber black
powder rifle, or roughly the same as a .223 centerfire. Guaranteed
one shot, one kill on them. OTOH, your neighbors will hear it, the same
as a Kodiak or other large-bore air rifle.
5: There's a lot to be said for slingshots. After a few times, most animals
go elsewhere rather than suffer welts and the occasional broken rib. My
father used to use this tactic quite well with marauding dogs when I was
growing up. They learned quick to not tear up our yard. No dead animal
to deal with, either.
I live in L.A. now(ick), and even the local gun shops look the other way
when it comes to these things. In fact, a man walked into the store and
asked about controlling pests with one and even though you're not supposed
to do that, they had no problem recommending a slingshot. The off-duty
officer nearby even tried to be helpful.
Compared to an air rifle or firearm, a slingshot is well under the radar
for most jurisdictions, and even where it's not allowed, as long as you
are using it responsibly, nobody will bother you. The officer said that
it's not legal to use them(ie - need to be caught in the act since it's
only a misdemeanor), but he'd rather see ten of them instead of one
firearm used that way.
Note: some areas don't have rules against paintballs, so that's also
worth checking. A few welts from them and they will leave for easier
pickings. Where I live, they consider it cruel or something(go fig),
so check on both.
P.S. I do know that a potato cannon is legal. Lol. That's one
way to get rid of the animal. :)
6: If there's a place where the animal likes to eat or wash itself or
whatnot(this may take some baiting them), also consider using something
that's very distasteful, like really hot pepper or simmilar. I've seen
odorless versions sold for this exact purpose - after a few times, they
go next door where they don't get a mouth full of pain.
Mike Paulson
[snip]
>> >As for aim points - any of the softer parts of the head, or try for the
>> >heart.
[snip]
>> be about a 20-30 foot shot, I have shot it a couple of times in the past
>at full
>> 2 liter pop bottles at that distance and it makes a serious mess out of
>them.
[snip]
>Jen in my opinion, a .177 is way underpowered for an animal the size of a
>raccoon. I also think a .22 bb cap is as well.
>If you must use the .177, and are proficient enough to do so, a head shot is
>the only humane way of dealing with the problem
So Jen, here's something to consider: You need to be decent marksman to
be sure of hitting a raccoon in the brain at 30 feet. It's a lot
different than shooting 2 liter bottles, plus they don't necessarily
remain motionless for long. If trying for a heart or lungs shot, a much
larger target area, then the problem becomes one of penetration. I know
1,000 fps sounds like a lot, and it is, lots and lots of humans and
animals have been killed with pioneer era handguns in the 700 - 850 fps
range, but the projectiles were many times larger and heavier than the
tiny .177 pellet. I haven't used my .177 on raccoons, but I suspect it
would do the trick if you get a clean shot from the side into the chest
area so the pellet wouldn't have to penetrate dense muscle mass or bone
before reaching the vitals. And you would certainly have to use the
heaviest pellet you can find for maximum penetration. Avoid the wadcutter
design. The flat point imparts more shock at impact but won't penetrate as
far as round nose or pointed pellets, and penetration will be your first
requirement. The .177 won't have enough shock power to drop the animal in
its tracks no matter what you load into it. It also won't be able to
leave the large wound channel of modern gunpowder firearms with expanding
bullets. If you are able to penetrate both lungs, they should collapse
and the animal will lose consciousness within a couple minutes and be dead
of suffocation in 5. And I emphasize BOTH lungs, which means shooting on
a level with the animal, not at a downward angle. If only one lung is
penetrated, the small wound channel will not assure death from hemorrhage.
Expect the animal to run away when hit, so be alert to see where it runs
to if you expect to recover the carcass or if you want to follow up with a
brain shot from point blank range. I will echo other posters and say that
if I were going after raccoons, I would want a .25 caliber, or .22 at
minimum. If you are determined to try it with the .177, I think it should
be possible if you do everything right. In the 1950's, Howard Hill killed
3 elephants in Africa with a bow and arrow using lung shots, but that is
not usually done because the wounded elephant has time to come and finish
your bacon before he expires, whereas a raccoon probably won't do that.
-mike paulson
dookie
with my .177 tx-200 (~850-900 fps).
that said, i don't at all recommend it for the novice airgunner. i'm an
excellent shot, having competed in 10m matches for years, and very practiced
with a spring piston rifle (which can be very technique-sensitive). i shot
from a bench rest (a deck railing), with a rifle i've put thousands of
rounds through, at a fairly short distance (10yds), on a calm day, with a
high-magnification scope (12x). i wouldn't have attempted it without every
possible advantage.
both shots were directly in the eye, with the animal looking towards me. i
used the heaviest .177 pellet i know of (beeman kodiak match). one raccoon
simply flopped over dead, the 2nd ran 50ft or so before toppling over.
if you're certain you want to try, borrow the rifle you'll be using and get
some kodiak pellets. put a dime where you expect the raccoon to be and fire
from where you expect to be. when you can hit the dime ten times in a row,
only then should you think about trying for the animal.
fwiw,
dookie
"Jennifer Robinson" <Je...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3fe8467c...@news.isomedia.com...
D. Moder
example, he used a long bow that pulled in excess of 100 lbs ( read extreme
high power) and specially made heavy weight arrows to match the bow
poundage. His hunting gear matched his quarry, he did not go after them
with his deer hunting equipment (70# long bow and medium weight arrows). I
mention this to keep the issue in proper perspective.
"Mike Paulson" <mpau...@nyx10.nyx.net> wrote in message
news:10721131...@irys.nyx.net...
Jennifer Robinson
going to take will be up into a big old tree in the backyard where they hang out
during the day. Will gravity have any effect on a shot that is less than 40
feet? And does that mean there are any areas that I should aim for or stay away
from because of the angle?
Jen
olrow
"There's a lot to be said for slingshots. After a few times, most animals
> go elsewhere rather than suffer welts and the occasional broken rib. My
> father used to use this tactic quite well with marauding dogs when I was
> growing up. They learned quick to not tear up our yard. No dead animal
> to deal with, either.
I use various wrist braced slingshots and have found them effective on
possum and cats. I like .50 cal lead balls or 5/8 inch steel balls, these
leave dead critters. A good hit from this type sligshot will injury or kill
within 30 feet with direct hits even with marbles. Any one no of a gentler
ammo? I now use a blowgun with a heavy stun dart (all plastic with screw in
the end head out of course.
Alfred Brown
Jen:
After following this thread, with many great responses, I have to say that
all of it goes out the window if you are talking about shooting into the
air!
Please, Please Jen, do not think about shooting a direction where you will
not know what is behind your target. It is just not responsible, or
considerate of neighbors and such. Please don't shoot into a tree unless
you are sure you can make the shot, or that a miss will end up in the tree.
If it doesn't I can assure you where ever it strikes will leave a black eye
for airgunners everywhere.
I think you should bait them in with what ever it is they are coming to get
(probably the dog-dish, I'll bet, that draws all of them in my neighborhood)
and stick with the two best suggestions to date, a wrist-rocket sling-shot
to drive them off, or use a Crossman Premiere Heavy (which in your friend's
Magnum .177 should give about 750 fps) an brain them, preferably from beind
at the base of the skull to hi the medulla, which controls the autonomic
muscle functions, such as breathing, swallowing, and heatbeat. The CP Heavy
should have ample penetration to breach the skull from that angle.
Agai, don't shoot where you have an unsure backstop, pleas, and good luck
with you racoon problem.
Big Al Brown in Birmingham AL
Jennifer Robinson
wrote:
Ok thanks for the warning, I am pretty sure I could hit them without any problem
but better safe than sorry. I don't have anything outside that is attracting the
raccoons other than the ponds and birdhouses, what if I put a can of cat food or
tuna fish outside by the woodpile? Would they come down for this during the day
or would I have to sit out at two in the morning? How far should I stay away
from the bait to not scare them off?
Jen
Joseph Oberlander
> Joseph Oberlander wrote
> "There's a lot to be said for slingshots. After a few times, most animals
>
>>go elsewhere rather than suffer welts and the occasional broken rib. My
>>father used to use this tactic quite well with marauding dogs when I was
>>growing up. They learned quick to not tear up our yard. No dead animal
>>to deal with, either.
>
>
> I use various wrist braced slingshots and have found them effective on
> possum and cats. I like .50 cal lead balls or 5/8 inch steel balls, these
> leave dead critters. A good hit from this type sligshot will injury or kill
> within 30 feet with direct hits even with marbles. Any one no of a gentler
> ammo?
They make plastic balls(white, iirc) and you don't have to pull it back
half as far - just enough to leave a big welt. The variable power and
nearly silent firing, compared to an air rifle is perfect for nighttime
use. Note - because of the general quiet of nighttime, a typical
air rifle will sound amazingly loud. Slingshots - nothing.
Now, I had an old pneumatic dart gun years ago - powered by slingshot
bands. They stopped making it, but it really was neat. It could fire
.50 cal balls like a slingshot, or darts.
Finally, my favorite stealth method:
Blowgun. You can make one that will work with .50 cal paintballs.
You then have a selection of paintballs, darts, slingshot ammo, or
my favorite, paper darts.
IIRC, they also make blunt darts for blowguns - basically a plastic
dart with no tip.
Joseph Oberlander
> Ok thanks for the warning, I am pretty sure I could hit them without any problem
> but better safe than sorry. I don't have anything outside that is attracting the
> raccoons other than the ponds and birdhouses, what if I put a can of cat food or
> tuna fish outside by the woodpile? Would they come down for this during the day
> or would I have to sit out at two in the morning? How far should I stay away
> from the bait to not scare them off?
You don't want to bait them - they then get the idea of your yard = food.
Just wait and when you see them, hit them with a slingshot. The beauty of
it is that almost anythig can be used, from a steel shot(likely kill it),
to more benign things like rocks and hard seed pits or thistles.
Jennifer Robinson
<josephob...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Jennifer Robinson wrote:
>
>> Ok thanks for the warning, I am pretty sure I could hit them without any problem
>> but better safe than sorry. I don't have anything outside that is attracting the
>> raccoons other than the ponds and birdhouses, what if I put a can of cat food or
>> tuna fish outside by the woodpile? Would they come down for this during the day
>> or would I have to sit out at two in the morning? How far should I stay away
>> from the bait to not scare them off?
>
>You don't want to bait them - they then get the idea of your yard = food.
Well if I do decide to bait them in it would be to shoot for a kill, not scare
away so that wouldn't be an issue.
>Just wait and when you see them, hit them with a slingshot. The beauty of
>it is that almost anythig can be used, from a steel shot(likely kill it),
>to more benign things like rocks and hard seed pits or thistles.
Either I have a ton of raccoons in my area or they just don't scare away. In
years past I have used a low power BB gun day after day to annoy them into
taking off only to see more the next day. I have soaked them with hoses while
they were sleeping in the tree, but they just come back. I have tried the
ultrasonic devices that are supposed to drive them away. I have tried motion
detectors with lights. Motion detector sprinklers. Motion detectors with sounds.
Chemical repellents. Mouse traps set out around the ponds but caught too many
birds so stopped using them, plus they didn't stop the raccoons. Full size cage
traps. Nets over the ponds. I have used a slingshot before but am not a very
good shot with it, I seem to have much better control with guns. I haven't tried
a blow gun though, maybe something to think about.
Jen
Joseph Oberlander
> Either I have a ton of raccoons in my area or they just don't scare away. In
> years past I have used a low power BB gun day after day to annoy them into
> taking off only to see more the next day. I have soaked them with hoses while
> they were sleeping in the tree, but they just come back. I have tried the
> ultrasonic devices that are supposed to drive them away. I have tried motion
> detectors with lights. Motion detector sprinklers. Motion detectors with sounds.
> Chemical repellents. Mouse traps set out around the ponds but caught too many
> birds so stopped using them, plus they didn't stop the raccoons. Full size cage
> traps. Nets over the ponds. I have used a slingshot before but am not a very
> good shot with it, I seem to have much better control with guns. I haven't tried
> a blow gun though, maybe something to think about.
You need to try the stuff they sell for dogs and vermin - you put it in the
food and it tastes mind-boggingly horrible.
As for nets - yeah, that won't work - you need 1/4 inch steel mesh screen.
The stuff's about as thick as heavy gauge solder wire. Keep it on with
a set of c-clamps. They can look, but they can't touch.
Lastly, a dog. This is a proven way to keep them out of your yard.
Jennifer Robinson
<josephob...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Jennifer Robinson wrote:
>
>> Either I have a ton of raccoons in my area or they just don't scare away. In
>> years past I have used a low power BB gun day after day to annoy them into
>> taking off only to see more the next day. I have soaked them with hoses while
>> they were sleeping in the tree, but they just come back. I have tried the
>> ultrasonic devices that are supposed to drive them away. I have tried motion
>> detectors with lights. Motion detector sprinklers. Motion detectors with sounds.
>> Chemical repellents. Mouse traps set out around the ponds but caught too many
>> birds so stopped using them, plus they didn't stop the raccoons. Full size cage
>> traps. Nets over the ponds. I have used a slingshot before but am not a very
>> good shot with it, I seem to have much better control with guns. I haven't tried
>> a blow gun though, maybe something to think about.
>
>You need to try the stuff they sell for dogs and vermin - you put it in the
>food and it tastes mind-boggingly horrible.
That won't help because the only "food" I leave around is the fish and birds.
>As for nets - yeah, that won't work - you need 1/4 inch steel mesh screen.
>The stuff's about as thick as heavy gauge solder wire. Keep it on with
>a set of c-clamps. They can look, but they can't touch.
Won't that look bad? The nets on the ponds were bad enough but what is the point
of setting up basically large scale bird cages not to mention that it is
probably hundreds of dollars to get all the ponds and houses encased. Forgetting
the cost issue though if it is not ascetically pleasing then what is the point
of putting all the work into the yard itself to make it look good enough to want
to protect it?
>Lastly, a dog. This is a proven way to keep them out of your yard.
Thought of that one before but I have more than enough domestic animals with the
cats already, don't have room for a dog.
Jen
Joseph Oberlander
> Won't that look bad? The nets on the ponds were bad enough but what is the point
> of setting up basically large scale bird cages not to mention that it is
> probably hundreds of dollars to get all the ponds and houses encased. Forgetting
> the cost issue though if it is not ascetically pleasing then what is the point
> of putting all the work into the yard itself to make it look good enough to want
> to protect it?
The idea for the cages is to replace the chicken wire or simmilar with this.
It's not too bad looking, actually. They make 1/2 inch as well.
As for the pond, it would be a cover you put on at night. If the pond is
built in, then it's harder. If they are above ground, it's a cinch.
tealc
with a slingshot
Jennifer Robinson
<josephob...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Jennifer Robinson wrote:
>
>> Won't that look bad? The nets on the ponds were bad enough but what is the point
>> of setting up basically large scale bird cages not to mention that it is
>> probably hundreds of dollars to get all the ponds and houses encased. Forgetting
>> the cost issue though if it is not ascetically pleasing then what is the point
>> of putting all the work into the yard itself to make it look good enough to want
>> to protect it?
>
>The idea for the cages is to replace the chicken wire or simmilar with this.
>It's not too bad looking, actually. They make 1/2 inch as well.
How much do you estimate it would cost to surround 14 birdhouses and cover about
800 (combined) square feet of surface area on the ponds?
>As for the pond, it would be a cover you put on at night. If the pond is
>built in, then it's harder. If they are above ground, it's a cinch.
Unfortunately all built into the ground.
Jen
Joseph Oberlander
> Unfortunately all built into the ground.
Oh - then it's going to be rough.
Happy Holidays To You And All Else
not 1250 fps. that extra little punch will really help with penetration.
the hunter 440 has that kind of power i believe. for a good price on
airguns amongst other things try
Http://www.cheaperthandirt.com they have lots of discount items.
especially good airguns. and they last a long time if you get one with a
wood or a good synthetic stock. gamo makes them best. also with a gun
that powerfull use a scope made for a real rifle and not a pelletgun
cause it may kick of a pellet gun scope.
I have killed a medium racoon at 40 yard with a hunter 440 that belonged
to my friend. but that was a very lucky shot.
Joseph Oberlander
> Depending on how much you want these gone i recomend at least 1200 if
> not 1250 fps. that extra little punch will really help with penetration.
> the hunter 440 has that kind of power i believe. for a good price on
> airguns amongst other things try
Problem:
Supersonic. That muzzle crack might as well be a .22LR.
Look at Quackenbush air rifles if you really want to pound the
little snots. As powerful as a .270, yet subsonic and air
powered. $495.
?
"Joseph Oberlander" <josephob...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:S08Hb.20772$Pg1....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
rifle. How does it come by that and in what caliber?
Ed
skee...@home.com
Joseph Oberlander
Sorry - I was talking about the ones Barnes makes. Quackenbush's are
closer to a .223)
~800fps and .50 caliber. 182gr lead ball. A bit over 250ft-lbs.
Now, you're going to say - that's not close! Well, it isn't all
about K.E. and speed. A 12 gauge shotgun slug at 1800 fps(490gr)
handily beats most anything under .375 Caliber when it comes to
actual effectiveness. Note - that's shooting round balls - Barnes uses
a simmilar design and *bullets* in the 350+gr range for astounding
results.
http://www.connext.net/~daq/bandit_1.html
Also look at the hunting pictures - those are full-sized deer(not the
2-3 ft tall crud you see where I live). Like a black-powder musket,
these are quite effective despite the slower speed.
http://www.barnespneumatic.com/magnum_rifles.html
Now, note what he says - the same rifle with 350gr bullets instead of
150gr bullets will go from 200ft-lbs to 500+. So loading heavier bullets
in the Quackenbush will yield far more power. His most powerful is just
under 700ft-lbs. It's basically a 1/2 velocity 12 gauge slug.
http://www.xmission.com/~fractil/math/kp.html
Here's why the power is simmilar. Mass is a huge factor in penetration
and damage. Take a "lowly" .45/70. Old old old round that fires a
massive 405gr slug. Hits as hard as a .338 Win Mag(just above the
.35 Whelen listed). Will crack a bear's skull like it's an aluminum can.
*note* - the FPS listed on that page for the 45/70 is really low.
Muzzle velocity is 1800 fps with handloads, and closer to 1600fps
at 100yds. In a modern single-shot rifle loaded up to 45-55K PSI,
it's even nastier.(1800fps is for a Marlin lever-action - bolt action
is closer to 2000fps)
Quackenbush:
Mass = 182 Velocity = 800 Kinetic Pulse = 167.177 kp
Kinetic Energy = 258.594 ft-lb Momentum = 0.646 slug ft/sec
.22 K-Hornet(most efficient load developed for it so far)
Mass = 50 Velocity = 2800 Kinetic Pulse = 540.976 kp
Kinetic Energy = 870.268 ft-lb Momentum = 0.622 slug ft/sec
Pretty close to each other.
.223
Mass = 55 Velocity = 3240 Kinetic Pulse = 1014.201 kp
Kinetic Energy = 1281.798 ft-lb Momentum = 0.791 slug ft/sec
https://www.jedediah-starr.com/buffalo.pdf
Note the 182gr round ball. The 385gr bullet will load in the
quackenbush as well. Expect ~550fps from it:
Mass = 385 Velocity = 550 Kinetic Pulse = 243.093 kp
Kinetic Energy = 258.555 ft-lb Momentum = 0.940 slug ft/sec
The K.E. figures are consistent(550fps is a good estimate)
- yet the penetration and impact just shot up to a bit over a
.22-250. Likely, it will shoot 600fps due to the efficiency
of pneumatic designs.
Of course, these don't explode and fragment like a varminting
bullet, so shot placement is key. Against a racoon? No contest.
It's dead. Yet, the power level isn't overkill.
Me? I'd load the light 182gr and be happy with .22K-Hornet
effectivenss. Perfect for a raccoon and less expensive than
many pre-charged rifles you can buy.
Joe
fpe or more. Personally, I use a Rapid 22/12 mk 2 set at 34fpe. It is deadly
to the coon brain. I have killed many of them. A fast second or third shot
is useful so they don't get very far. Like a chicken with its head cut off a
coon can move a fair distance although dead. Any of the Korean hunting
rifles will do as well: Saver, Career, ARS(?). I like the Korean heavy
pellets, 28 g and more.
"Jennifer Robinson" <Je...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
Luke Brennan
concur that a .177 cal rifle at 1000 fps is not enough gun for a coon, and
you are going to wound it and make it suffer. Trap it with a live trap, put
the trap and the animal in a garbage bag, and hook it up to the exhaust of
your running car. It will be more humane by far.
Good luck
Luke
Mitch Haley
> Trap it with a live trap, put
> the trap and the animal in a garbage bag, and hook it up to the exhaust of
> your running car. It will be more humane by far.
The only way to kill it with car exhaust is by lack of oxygen. (or by cooking
it alive). It would be more humane to seal the bag and let it suffocate w/o
the heat and stink, but I'm not fond of that idea either. If in the USA, get
a Rossi single shot for $99 (Dicks or Dunhams has been running a sale on the
.22LR / 20ga combo for that price) and stick a subsonic target hollow point
beween the coon's eyes, or let him have a shotgun load in the chest at short
range (messy but effective).
Mitch.
Joseph Oberlander
Carbon monixide poisoning is actually one of the few truly humane methods
of killing a creature as their mind gets fuzzy and they pass out. No pain
or trauma, either.
Probably use a lawn mower - any 2-stroke engine will easily provide enough
emissions to do the job in a couple of minutes.
Mitch Haley
>
> Probably use a lawn mower - any 2-stroke engine will easily provide enough
> emissions to do the job in a couple of minutes.
Right. The "Humane" Society used to do Briggs&Stratton gassings, but they will
try to get you arrested if they find out you do the same thing now. If you fill
a garbage bag with coon and lawnmower fumes, the coon should pass out reasonably
quickly.
I was just pointing out that the CO emissions from a car with a functioning
catalyst are effectively zero, and all you've got going for you is the fact
that the oxygen content of the exhaust is low. Myself, I don't bother with
racoons unless they are on the porch wreaking havoc, then I simply stick
a .22 rifle out the window and dispatch them. A subsonic round from a 26"
barrel doesn't have any more report than many air rifles, and a good bit
less than my 707 on a high power setting.
Mitch.
Joseph Oberlander
> Joseph Oberlander wrote:
>
>>Probably use a lawn mower - any 2-stroke engine will easily provide enough
>>emissions to do the job in a couple of minutes.
>
>
> Right. The "Humane" Society used to do Briggs&Stratton gassings, but they will
> try to get you arrested if they find out you do the same thing now. If you fill
> a garbage bag with coon and lawnmower fumes, the coon should pass out reasonably
> quickly.
Don't even get me started on these bleeding heart types who try to protect
every diseased feral cat. I know kittens are cute, but left alone, they
will literally breed life flies.
Jocelyn Lacharité
never up in a three.
Jocelyn.
"Jennifer Robinson" <Je...@hotmail.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
munir
>never up in a three.
>
but, as with bears, that's where they always end up when we run them at night
on my buddy's land...
then we don't usually shoot 'em we lets them go
Joe
over 30fpe will kill with a head or chest shot at 30m. The more power the
better. There are many airguns over 50fpe. I use a Rapid 2/22 at 34 fpe. A
quick second and third shot is quite useful to stop them from dying out of
you sight. Careers, Savers, Sam Yangs are deadly.
"Jocelyn Lacharité" <joce...@globetrotter.net> wrote in message
news:PZKJb.26369$6N3....@charlie.risq.qc.ca...
Joseph Oberlander
> Jocelyn: air guns serve very well to eliminate raccoon pests. Any airgun
> over 30fpe will kill with a head or chest shot at 30m. The more power the
> better. There are many airguns over 50fpe. I use a Rapid 2/22 at 34 fpe. A
> quick second and third shot is quite useful to stop them from dying out of
> you sight. Careers, Savers, Sam Yangs are deadly.
They are expensive, loud, and heavy. I'd just use a subsonic .22LR or
a .22 Short.
BlackEagle
"tealc" <te...@easyitis.net> wrote in message news:3fe948ae.0@entanet...
johnbe...@gmail.com
> I would rather get rid of them in another manner but have already tried the last
> couple of years using traps, motion sprinklers, lights, repellents, etc to very
> limited success. So I guess its either continue suffering serious damage to my
> ponds and bird houses or try something else. A friend of mine has a 1000 FPS
> airgun that uses .177 pellets. How well would this work to eliminate raccoons?
> Where would be the best areas to aim? What shape pellets should I use?
>
> Jen