Lining Pleated Pants
ama...@obsof.com
I'm currently sewing pleated trousers with a waistband and front zip (McCalls 6985). I'm using good wool fabric and think
it would be worth lining them. Two questions:
* how do I adjust the pattern for the lining pieces?
* what is the best order of construction - especially where the
lining joins to the waistband and zip.
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Rebecca Pressley
You don't have to make any adjustments for the lining. Just sew all the
seams at 1/2" instead of 5/8". This builds in the necessary give for the
lining. The lining is then basted to the waist of the pants before
attaching the waistband, then go ahead and install the waistband.
Generally linings are not sewn to the zipper (at least that's how I learned
- some sewers may) but left loose. The hem of the lining should be
slightly shorter than the pants and only joined at the side and inseams
with french tacks.
I hope this helps, it might just make you more confused than ever!!
Rebecca
ama...@obsof.com wrote in article <605040$7o7$1...@orthanc.reference.com>...
Jo-Ann
On 22 Sep 1997 05:36:00 GMT, ama...@obsof.com wrote:
>I'm currently sewing pleated trousers with a waistband and front zip (McCalls 6985).
>I'm using good wool fabric and think it would be worth lining them. Two questions:
>* how do I adjust the pattern for the lining pieces?
>* what is the best order of construction - especially where the
> lining joins to the waistband and zip.
I line all my pleated trousers and have developed my own techniques &
hints:
- If the pattern has slanted pockets, overlay the pocket piece over the
front pant piece to cut the lining. Cut the lining without the pocket. On
the lining front, do not include the extensions for the fly front. Cut the
lining finished length 1" shorter than the finished length of the pants.
Allow 1" hem allowance.
- Construct the pants up to the point of attaching the waistband. Have the
zipper attached. Set the front and back creases
- Construct the lining using 1/2" seam allowances. Do not sew darts and/or
pleats at waistline. Along opening for zipper, press back seam allowance.
Set the front and back creases. Remember that the creases on the lining
will be "inside out".
- With wrong sides together and the lining inside the pants, pin lining and
pants together along waistline at sides and center back. Fold The lining
will be larger since no pleats or darts are sewn in the lining. Fold tucks
in the lining to make it fit the pants. These tucks should go the opposite
way of the tucks/darts in the pants.
- Baste the waistlines together. Attach the waistband normally.
- You may leave the lining free at the zipper, or attach it by hand.
- Hem the lining with a double fold 1/2" hem. Machine stitch. The double
hem gives the lining more weight to hang nicely. Attach the lining to the
pants at the side seams only with french tacks.
Jo-Ann In New Orleans
Robin Hart
I dont think i can answer this properly, but if you made the lining bigger
than the pants, there would be too much bulk. The pants will not hang right
or wear right or look right. Just a personal opinion.
--
Robin (to send email please remove nospam)
Bjam10 wrote in article <19970923153...@ladder02.news.aol.com>...
>I have often heard the advice to make the lining slightly larger than the
>garment, as in 1/2" seam allownaces, but I still don't understand why. I
>was taught that one purpose of a lining was to take the stress off of the
>garment, but it seems that you'd get the opposite effect when making the
>lining larger. Would someone kindly explain the logic of this? Thanks so
much.
>
>BJ
Rebecca Pressley
You need to make the lining slightly larger because lining fabric has very
little give if any. The fashion fabric has some give and if the lining
were smaller instead of larger the lining would rip out at the seams.
Rebecca
Bjam10 <bja...@aol.com> wrote in article
castleby@inforamp.net(PMaynard)
I have just started to make a separate "underslack" from good quality
Bemberg (so it breathes) for the pants I've sewn this summer, and I'm
really pleased that it works well. First of all, it's made from my
pant sloper, with just enough ease to glide over the body, and not too
big and not too small. Second, it has a narrow elastic waist. Third,
it can be washed & dries easily in or out of dryer. Fourth it save
all the attachment time of incorporating it into the garment (and
ripping and reattaching a new one if it rips out).
I didn't think that I would like these separate linings, but after a
few months of wear, I don't think I'll ever go back to the "sewn in"
again. I made the first one because I had a purchased pair of pants
from a think houndstooth weave, and you could actually see my skin in
some places if the light was right (let alone the cellulite). Now
both problems are solved, and my cleaning bills have declined, too.
We have a Canadian Designer (Linda Lundstrom) who prefers to sell
unlined pants with a separate "Underlining pant" that retails for
about $80. My Bemberg variety takes 2 meters and costs $10 (when
Bembergs on sale).
Regards,
Patricia Maynard
cast...@inforamp.net
>Bjam10 <bja...@aol.com> wrote in article
><19970923153...@ladder02.news.aol.com>...
>> I have often heard the advice to make the lining slightly larger than the
>> garment, as in 1/2" seam allownaces, but I still don't understand why. I
BJ
>>
Maggy C
In article <60et8r$m2t$1...@news.istar.ca>, cast...@inforamp.net
(cast...@inforamp.net(PMaynard)) writes:
>I have just started to make a separate "underslack" from good quality
>Bemberg (so it breathes)
I love the idea, but what is "Bemberg"?
MaggyC
Truly Donovan
Maggy C wrote:
> I love the idea, but what is "Bemberg"?
Bemberg is a medium-weight rayon lining fabric that has been around for
generations. I have no idea why it is called that.
--
Truly Donovan
reply to truly at lunemere dot com
castleby@inforamp.net(PMaynard)
Hi MaggyC:
Bemberg is the brand name of a washable rayon lining. It may be
called something else where you live, but it is the most common lining
fabric. It is non-acetate, non-silk, non-poly. Your fabric store
probably has it.
Patricia Maynard
cast...@inforamp.net
mag...@aol.com (Maggy C) wrote:
>In article <60et8r$m2t$1...@news.istar.ca>, cast...@inforamp.net
>(cast...@inforamp.net(PMaynard)) writes:
>>I have just started to make a separate "underslack" from good quality
>>Bemberg (so it breathes)
>I love the idea, but what is "Bemberg"?
>MaggyC
The Stanley Family
Some years ago I purchased some 'pants liners' in the lingerie department
(with the slips) at Sears. They were just pull-on pants with an elastic
waist made of the slinky slip fabric (think half-slip with a pants shape
instead of a skirt shape). I wore them under any pants that were too sheer
or to itchy or too clingy until they fell apart, then used them as a
pattern and made more. This works MUCH better than an attached lining, for
me. The care instructions on the outer fabric and lining don't often match
and the shrinkage factor is probably different. This way is very
comfortable, too! You could also make them in a heavier fabric for extra
insulation in the colder weather.
Rebecca Pressley <rebec...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<60bnrs$i...@bgtnsc02.worldnet.att.net>...
> You need to make the lining slightly larger because lining fabric has
very
> little give if any. The fashion fabric has some give and if the lining
> were smaller instead of larger the lining would rip out at the seams.
> Rebecca
>
> Bjam10 <bja...@aol.com> wrote in article
> <19970923153...@ladder02.news.aol.com>...
> > I have often heard the advice to make the lining slightly larger than
the
> > garment, as in 1/2" seam allownaces, but I still don't understand why.
I
SewStorm
>Some years ago I purchased some 'pants liners' in the lingerie department
>(with the slips) at Sears. They were just pull-on pants with an elastic
>waist made of the slinky slip fabric (think half-slip with a pants shape
>instead of a skirt shape).
Does anyone but me remember pettipants? I was so young when they were big that
mine had "Barbie" on them, but they were terrific for under culottes (my, this
was a long time ago, wasn't it?), and even under pants and skirts. My sister
and my mother and I all wore them, until they wore out and by then they were
no longer available.
I have a china silk pant liner for some wide-legged georgette pants I made a
couple of years ago. These are pretty sheer, which sort of went in and then
straight out of fashion, so the liner really not only preserved my modesty,
but also extended the fashion life of these comfy pants. I've also been
meaning to make a liner for trousers--Claire Shaeffer talked about this in a
class I took six years ago. Time to do this, eh?
Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati
Editor: Sew Up A Storm: The Newsletter for Sewing Entrepreneurs
http://www.sewnet.com/SewStorm/