On Tue, 9 Jun 2020 18:30:04 +0000, SandiPayne
<
605d5c0f3b75be7e...@example.com> wrote:
>Still needing to find the answer for the upper looper arm replacement as the 2.5 Allen wrench I’ve tried is not budging the bolt at all. I’ve tried loosening with oil, tri-flow, acetone- in case the bolt was secured with lock-tight and still no go. The upper looper needle arm bent when the needle suddenly dropped down while
sewing. I caught it time to do further damage- I have the replacement part and the two technicians I took it to wouldn’t touch it without asking for $250 and said it wasn’t worth fixing. I believe it it is and have faith there are better technicians who can answer this simple question: how do you loosen the 2.5 hex bolt that
secured the upper looper arm to the shaft on a Singer 14SH654? Please help.
This isn't specific to sewing machines, it's generic advice for
dealing with recalcitrant screws.
First thing, try turning the screw the other way. Odds of it being a
left-hand thread are tiny, but if it is you'll save yourself a world
of frustration.
Next, try 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone--old
machinst's trick (note--if your car has an automatic transmission you
can probably drip enough off of the transmission dipstick to do the
job--you only need a drop or two--no need to buy anything).
Next, try heating the screw. A cheap soldering iron should work fine.
Let it cool then more automatic transmission fluid with acetone.
You're trying to expand the hole a tiny bit with thermal
expansion--once the screw cools it should be a tiny bit looser fit. If
that doesn't work heat it again and try to turn it hot--the heat will
overcome any Loctite or the like.
If that doesn't work, you're probably going to have to destroy the
screw to get it out, so get a replacement screw.
If you've got an impact driver give it a shot. Don't go buy one
though.
Try vise-grips on the screw head. They'll bugger up the screw and may
break it. They'll also scratch the part it's holding but you're
replacing that anyway. If the screw breaks you've now got the pieces
disassembled and no tension on the screw, so the remains should come
out easier.
If you can't get any useful result with the vise-grips, it's time to
grind the head off--a Dremel with a cutoff wheel is probably your
best bet for this, but if space is tight a carbide cutter will do.
Again once the head is off, with no tension on the remains of the
screw it should come out easily.