Singer 337 speed issue

[elise...@gmail.com]

Hi everyone, I recently inherited a Singer 337 sewing machine from my grandma. It didn't move at all when I first brought it home. After consulting the manual and looking inside, I gave it a good cleaning and oiling, and now it seems to be running pretty well. I watched a video to see how my machine ran compared to other 337s. The speed seems to be good, but my machine has little/no control over speed like the other machines. It either doesn't go at all, or goes top speed. No matter how gently I try to press on the foot control, it just goes full throttle. Any ideas on what may be causing this and how I could fix it? I wouldn't mind, except full throttle is pretty darn fast and I can't keep up!

[BEI Design]

No expert here, I hope Ron chimes in. But it sounds to me like a
rheostat issue. Can you find/borrow another foot control? Is there
anyone nearby who services sewing machines?

--
Beverly
http://www.ickes.us

[Kay Lancaster]

On Sat, 30 Aug 2014 18:42:28 -0700 (PDT), elise...@gmail.com <elise...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi everyone, I recently inherited a Singer 337 sewing machine from my grandma. It didn't move at all when I first brought it home. After consulting the manual and looking inside, I gave it a good cleaning and oiling, and now it seems to be running pretty well. I watched a video to see how my machine ran compared to other 337s. The speed seems to be good, but my machine has little/no control over speed like the other machines. It either doesn't go at all, or goes top speed. No matter how gently I try to press on the foot control, it just goes full throttle. Any ideas on what may be causing this and how I could fix it? I wouldn't mind, except full throttle is pretty darn fast and I can't keep up!

Learn to sew faster? <vbg>

Seriously, if the machine was as gummed up as you say, it probably needs a trip
in for a professional cleaning... there's probably some more gear lubrication
inside waiting to freeze up. Probably about midnight when you desperately need
something done by the next day.

Have you checked the pedal for mechanical problems that might cause the pedal
to depress fully too easily? Busted spring? Something shorting a resistor?
Replacement pedals are available, if the problem really is there.

Kay

[hub...@ccanoemail.com]

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Foot Controllers- General Info.

1. Any foot control will run an all-mechanical machine.
2. The old wire rheostats work fine but the wire will eventually break
and is more trouble to repair
than it is worth.
3. The carbon pile controllers Work by compressing a stack of carbon
discs. They work well and
are not difficult to repair. If you have one that is dead, as in
rusted out or the ceramic housing is
broken, save the carbon discs for repair of other controllers later.
You can clean the burnt ones by
rubbing them on very fine sandpaper. If your machine won't run until
the pedal is all the way
down and then starts at full speed, you need to add some discs to your
controller. If the machine
runs too fast as soon as you touch the pedal, you need to remove a
disc. Most of these have contacts
outside of the ceramic disc holder that bypass the carbon stacks when
the pedal is completely
depressed. It is adjustable. These controller spit, sputter, and get
hot when you run the machine
slowly for long periods of time. That's normal.
4. Electronic controllers are really the best functionally. They all
have plastic
housings but that's not a problem unless you drop something heavy on
them.
5. Any two lead cordset can be wired to any foot control with some
exceptions. A foot control
that was intended to run a machine electronic needle up or down,
thread cutter, backtack
or other feature of this nature that is activated by the foot control
can be used but will probably have
more than two inputs. Plus they're expensive. A machine with more than
two wires on the
part of the cordset that goes to the foot control either has an extra
function or is a Bernina in which
case the extra lead was put there to fool you into thinking that you
have to spend a lot of money to
get a Bernina foot control. One wire can be eliminated. But you must
pick the right two of the three
or you will burn up your new generic foot control.
6. Early attempts at electronic foot controls such as Elnas work fine
until they stop working fine.
They still have the old rheostat in them and can be a real headache to
diagnose and to reassemble
correctly. The new plastic ones work fine. Don't try to use any home
sewing machine foot control
on a motor rated at 2 or more amps. Actually you're in dangerous
territory at over 1.5 amps.
Machines such as Sailrite mounted in a Portabase have motors that will
burn up a home machine
controller.
7. What you should expect to pay will change with time for many
reasons. Currently (currently
being the year 2009) you can find new generic electronic foot conrols
on eBay for $15 or less. You
will pay up to twice that at a dealer.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---

[Ron Anderson]

<elise...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf61bf09-dbd9-427c...@googlegroups.com...

--
The old style carbon element foot controls lose their range over time. Best
to replace it with an electronic control. Much better speed control and no
heat build up when sewing at slow speeds.


Ron Anderson A1 Sewing Machine
18 Dingman Rd Sand Lake, NY 12153
http://www.a1sewingmachine.com
www.facebook.com/A1SewingMachineSpecialists