Any experience with Ultrasuede?
Don & Laurie Cobbett
Franfogel wrote:
>
> I just picked up four and a half yards of Ultrasuede at a garage sale, but
> I'm not sure how to treat it. I know that a leather contruction would be
> used, but have the following questions:
> 1. Can it go in both the washer and dryer, and should I prewash it?
> 2. Is there a "grain" or can I lay out the pieces without regard to grain
> lines?
> 3. Should I use a "with nap" layout?
> My instinct is to use simple patterns with few seams. I'd love to hear
> from someone else who has worked with Ultrasuede before I (gulp!) cut it.
> Thanks!
>
> Fran
I am jealous! What a find. According to "Palmer/Pletsch Sewing with
Ultrasuede" you can wash Ultrasuede, use warm water in the wash cycle
and cold water in the rinse on a permanent press cycle, you can dry in
the dryer on a moderate setting for 20 minutes or so. They also say
that washing the fabric will soften it somewhat so if you like the feel
of it the way it is, you can also dry clean it. The book also says that
you can tilt pattern pieces up to a 45 degree angle without any really
noticeable color or shading differences. And, there is a grain, there
is more stretch on the cross grain than on the straight or even bias.
Having said all this, I love the look and feel of Ultrasuede, but I'm
not eager to sew with it again, I found it difficult to control, the
fabric creeps something terrible, I made an traditional Native dress for
someone (thank God it was a simple pattern!), and had a terrible time
with it. I would suggest getting a book, either from the library or
buying one before cutting into it. Good Luck.
Laurie
Karen L Schumacher
Franfogel (fran...@aol.com) wrote:
: I just picked up four and a half yards of Ultrasuede at a garage sale, but
: used, but have the following questions:
: 1. Can it go in both the washer and dryer, and should I prewash it?
: 2. Is there a "grain" or can I lay out the pieces without regard to grain
: lines?
: 3. Should I use a "with nap" layout?
: My instinct is to use simple patterns with few seams. I'd love to hear
: from someone else who has worked with Ultrasuede before I (gulp!) cut it.
: Thanks!
: Fran
Ultrasuede is a WONDERFUL fabric, although VERY pricy...you're lucky to
have found it a garage sale...
1. Yes. And yes. Machine wash warm, tumble dry, and I'd prewash just to
remove sizings and get any dye run out of the way. It's rare, but it
happens.
2. Lay the pieces out without regard...If you're really really worried
about it, use the selvages as selvages.
3. Yes. It has a definite nap, run your hand along it and see.
Using a simple pattern would work, however, you can also go NUTS with
applique since it doesn't need seam finishing. I've seen people use it as
they would leather-piecing. The best advice I could give on using it would
be to cut your seam allowances down to 1/2 or even 3/8 since it doesn't
need seam finishing. This will save on the amount of fabric used, meaning
several projects instead of just one.
Hope this helps!
ne...@nmia.com
Joyce McMullin
Don & Laurie Cobbett writes:
> Franfogel wrote:
> >
> > I just picked up four and a half yards of Ultrasuede at a garage sale, but
> > used, but have the following questions:
> > 1. Can it go in both the washer and dryer, and should I prewash it?
> > 2. Is there a "grain" or can I lay out the pieces without regard to grain
> > lines?
> > 3. Should I use a "with nap" layout?
> > My instinct is to use simple patterns with few seams. I'd love to hear
> > from someone else who has worked with Ultrasuede before I (gulp!) cut it.
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Fran
> Ultrasuede" you can wash Ultrasuede, use warm water in the wash cycle
> and cold water in the rinse on a permanent press cycle, you can dry in
> the dryer on a moderate setting for 20 minutes or so. They also say
> that washing the fabric will soften it somewhat so if you like the feel
> of it the way it is, you can also dry clean it. The book also says that
> you can tilt pattern pieces up to a 45 degree angle without any really
> noticeable color or shading differences. And, there is a grain, there
> is more stretch on the cross grain than on the straight or even bias.
> Having said all this, I love the look and feel of Ultrasuede, but I'm
> not eager to sew with it again, I found it difficult to control, the
> fabric creeps something terrible, I made an traditional Native dress for
> someone (thank God it was a simple pattern!), and had a terrible time
> with it. I would suggest getting a book, either from the library or
> buying one before cutting into it. Good Luck.
> Laurie
Lucky you!
I've made Ultrasuede jackets and skirts and even used leftovers
for contrast collars and covered buttons. Yes, you can wash and
dry....recommended you do this first. I've washed and dried up
to 4x to soften it up before I cut. Get the Palmer/Pletsch
book, it's good. Use a ballpoint needle and to avoid "creep,"
use a walking foot or a quilting foot (two rollers on the foot).
Ultrasuede works rather like a heavy brushed denim. To baste
edges together before you sew, run a gluestick within the seam
allowance and let it "stick" a few minutes...the kind of gluestick
that you get at a
stationery supply store, be sure it is the kind that washes out....
most do...Avery or Dennison.
The only think scary about ultrasuede, frankly, is the "cost" of
a mistake....when you're paying anywhere between $35 and $50 a
yard. Take your time and pick a simple pattern the first time
out. Good luck..what a terrific find!
--
Joyce A. McMullin
jmcm...@leo.vsla.edu
http://www.alexandria.lib.va.us/lloyd.htm
Becker
Franfogel wrote:
I'd love to hear from someone else who has worked with Ultrasuede before I
(gulp!) cut it.
> > Thanks!
> > Fran
>
I've only worked with ultrasuede once but, had no problems. I DID however
use a microtex sharp needle and loosened the presser foot pressure just
slightly. I was applying an ultrasuede trim to polartec as a binding and
decorative edge on welt pockets.
Hope this helps
Leanne
CAP
> Franfogel wrote:
>
> I'd love to hear from someone else who has worked with Ultrasuede before I
> (gulp!) cut it.
> > > Thanks!
>
> > > Fran
Don't be too nervous, just take your time. I've sewn several
ultrasuede/ultrafacile/ultraleather garments and have never had a
problem. If you are using a heavier ultrasuede, don't pick a
complicated pattern. Use a good sharp scissors. If your careful, you
can use pins but try to keep them in the seam allowance. You can save on
the fabric with careful layout. You can angle the pieces up to 45
degrees. However, I've found that some colors of ultrasuede (usually
the darker ones) do have a discernable "nap" (i.e. color change) when
you angle pieces more than about 25 degrees so only mess around with the
small pieces or the facings. I've also found that using a double needle
for top stitching looks quite nice and gives a neat look to the "raw"
edges. Also, look at sewing techniques for real leather and suede for
some ideas. I make one jacket with inset bound buttonholes which I have
found to be the easiest style to use (I think I got it out of Roberta
Carr's "Couture sewing"?) Practice on scrap pieces before your start.
On a different note, I have question on ultra leather that I will post
separately.