crotch depth vs. crotch length and other pants fitting questions
Julie Brady
I am making my first pair of pants. I am using the Singer
"Sewing Pants That Fit" book. I believe I need crotch depth
(sitting in a chair from waist to chair measurement) as well
as crotch length (from waist down through up to back of
waist measurement). I also need a 'protruding seat' adjustment.
All three of these modifications lengthen the overall crotch
length; which is good, but I am not certain if I need all
three of these adjustments and how much for each. I know the
total amount I want to increase the crotch length, and the
crotch depth adjustment is fairly straightforward, but when
I combined all three adjustments I ended up with a crotch
length that was too long, and the crotch area just doesn't
look right (although there is _plenty_ of room). My specific
fit problems are crotch length and depth, full seat and
somewhat full thighs--my hip measurement and thigh circumference
are almost identical. In other words, the fullest part of my
hips isn't exactly the prescribed amount below the waist.
Can anyone provide any insight into this area of pattern
alteration? The Singer book is very good, but I need
some practical experience from someone who has done this
before.
Thanks very much
julieb
Bob and Jan Boggan
Sometime ago I gave up on the crotch depth measurement taken sitting on
a chair. I have taught Stretch & Sew for years and that is still their
suggestion, but since their patterns are also for wovens, this does not
work for me anymore. I always take a waist to waist through the crotch
measurement. I then add an inch or two to the top of the front and
back. This can be cut off in the final fitting when you try them on if
not needed. You can't add it later if you need it. You might try
adding to the back crotch shelf for more thigh and hip room. Or put
elastic around the fullest part of your hip, measure down to that line
from the waist and add to your pattern at that location. The crotch
shelf is your thigh line. E-mail if I can help any further.
Jan
Anne Paulson
>I am making my first pair of pants. I am using the Singer
>"Sewing Pants That Fit" book. I believe I need crotch depth
>(sitting in a chair from waist to chair measurement) as well
>as crotch length (from waist down through up to back of
>waist measurement). I also need a 'protruding seat' adjustment.
>All three of these modifications lengthen the overall crotch
>length; which is good, but I am not certain if I need all
>three of these adjustments and how much for each. I know the
>total amount I want to increase the crotch length, and the
>crotch depth adjustment is fairly straightforward, but when
>I combined all three adjustments I ended up with a crotch
>length that was too long, and the crotch area just doesn't
>look right (although there is _plenty_ of room).
You're only talking about two adjustments here. First, you need to
adjust the back crotch, with a wedge adjustment, to allow for the
extra fabric to cover your full behind. Then you might need to
lengthen the crotch depth, by adding length across the whole pattern
front and back. Both of these adjustments will add to the crotch
length. So what you need to do is to figure out how much of the total
crotch length needs to be added for your behind, and just add the rest
to the crotch depth. You might also need to reshape the crotch curve
in the back, perhaps by scooping it out (which also adds to the crotch
length), but I'd do the other adjustments first and see how they work out.
You probably know this, but you'll need to alter the back darts.
They'll need to be lengthened, and probably widened as well.
-- Anne Paulson