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Coat too tight in underarm

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learning2sew

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Nov 10, 2009, 6:59:22 PM11/10/09
to
Hi there, I just bought this beautiful new trench coat that fits me
perfectly
everywhere except the underarm. Is there some way to make the underarm
bigger?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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BEI Design

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Nov 11, 2009, 6:00:06 PM11/11/09
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learning2sew wrote:
> Hi there, I just bought this beautiful new trench coat
> that fits me perfectly
> everywhere except the underarm. Is there some way to
> make the underarm bigger?
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Do you mean that it is too high? If so, you can reshape the
underarm part of the armscye (in both the garment and the
lining) by drawing a new lower curve, starting about 3" each
side of the underarm/side seam and dropping the new armscye
seam a little at a time (no more than 1/4" each time),
cutting out the excess fabric and then trying the coat on
until you have a better fit. (If it has a two-piece sleeve
and princess seams, start drawing your new seam line at each
of the two sleeve seams.)

If it is tight across the back, there's not much you can do
unless the manufacturer left very deep seam allowances, in
which case you can gain about 1/2" on each side of the back
by swinging a new seam out 1/4" and tapering back to the
original seam line at the shoulder and underarm. But be
careful, as that seam at the back of the sleeves takes a lot
of stress each time you reach forward, and if you don't
leave at least 1/4" of fabric in place it may tear under
stress. If you do this alteration, run a couple of
additional lines of stitching 1/16" apart within the seam
allowance to reinforce the new (narrower) seam allowance
well.

--
Beverly
http://ickes.us/default.aspx


Kay Lancaster

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Nov 12, 2009, 5:42:03 AM11/12/09
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On Tue, 10 Nov 2009 23:59:22 +0000, learning2sew
<darian_at_mimi...@foo.com> wrote:

> Hi there, I just bought this beautiful new trench coat that fits me
> perfectly
> everywhere except the underarm. Is there some way to make the underarm
> bigger?

Can't "see" the coat problem well enough to say for sure, but it might be worth
taking it to a good alterationist for his/her appraisal.

Is the armscye too small? If so, it may be able to be recut, probably with
the help of a small gusset. Or could the armscye be too far out onto the arm,
rather than near the anatomical joint? Or is it too tight in the back of
the sleeve? Or too tight in the biceps?

The one thing you want to watch out for... the more closely fitting the armscye
is to the shoulder joint, the better the mobility of the sleeve. Coat sleeves,
because they're cut to fit over other clothes, tend to be more restrictive
anyhow. If you need good arm mobility, you really have to watch how big
you get the armscye.

Kay

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