trouble with flat-felled seams ?
robb
I have been practicing my flat-felled seams as follows.
Using --
===========
* using a 100% cotton percale 220 thread count
* using a Shmetz universal 70/10 needle
* using C&C Dual duty plus - all purpose (top and bottom)
* using a felling foot
* 3 mm stitch length
Sewing -- ( following instructions in "complete guide to sewing")
===========
* wrong sides together
* I sew a SS with 5/8" seam
* I trim one of the sides of the seam to about 1/8 ",
* I press the larger 5/8" allowance over the shorter cut
allowance ,
* I fold the 5/8" seam allowance and slide fold into the felling
foot
* stitch
Seam looks correct to me
When i hold the seam upright it twists some . If i cut the seam
out with a 1/2 " of material to either side of flat felled seam
the dangling seam twists like a corkscrew (not as severe) it
makes a full twist for every 4-5 inches of seam.
Any tips or advice ?
tia
robb
Kate XXXXXX
My bet would be that the seams are not cut on the straight grain, or the
foot pressure is shifting the second line of stitching...
I never use a felling foot, I just press and sew with either the
ordinary foot or a walking foot if the fabric has a tendency to creep.
I rarely get this problem.
Something else to keep in mind is to do both lines of stitching in the
same direction (as in start at the armhole and go towards the hem on
both passes).
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
Sparafucile
> My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
<snip>
> Any tips or advice ?
> tia
> robb
I'm a beginner, so I use a "flat-felled seam" foot (available at:
http://www.sewingemporium.com/ in different sizes) which makes it easy
to do really nice flat-felled seams with just a bit of practice.
Likewise, for rolled hems, they sell a rolled-hem foot).
Complete instructions on how to use either can be found in David
Coffin's book SHIRTMAKING, and the accompanying video-tape, which you
may be able to get from your library.
--
Ciao,
Serge
“I love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.”
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
6/29/2008 1:43:49 PM
Sparafucile
> On Sun, 29 Jun 2008 00:18:01 -0400, robb wrote:
>
>> My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
> <snip>
>> Any tips or advice ?
>> tia
>> robb
>
OK, I replied too quickly: you ARE using the foot, sorry for not
reading your post befor writing!
However, Coffin is quite thorough (the video is great) and his
instructions and illustrations may help!
>
> Complete instructions on how to use either can be found in David
> Coffin's book SHIRTMAKING, and the accompanying video-tape, which you
> may be able to get from your library.
--
Ciao,
Serge
“I love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.”
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
6/29/2008 1:51:41 PM
Kay Lancaster
>
> When i hold the seam upright it twists some . If i cut the seam
> out with a 1/2 " of material to either side of flat felled seam
> the dangling seam twists like a corkscrew (not as severe) it
> makes a full twist for every 4-5 inches of seam.
Betcha the fabric is stretching a bit as you're sewing. Try lightening the
presser foot pressure for the second stitching. If you're pressing before
the second stitching, try dry iron and pressing (up and down) instead of
ironing (side to side).
You also see this sort of twisting on a curved felled seam -- the issue there
is you're trying to stuff a larger seam allowance into a smaller area,
and if you make a very narrow fell (and clip the edge of the allowance
before felling), you can often get it to work. Sometimes I've had to
resort to hand basting or glue basting first.
I don't have a felling foot for one of my machines, so I use a modified
general purpose foot. The modification is that I've added a couple of
layers of self-stick teflon to the underside on the right side of
the foot only,which gives me a foot that's thicker on the right side
than the left. The left rides on the felled seam, the right on the single
thickness of fabric, which levels out the pressure across the area
being sewn.
Kay
robb
"Sparafucile" <fa...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:s9u6g1tbfqe7.1h...@40tude.net...
> On Sun, 29 Jun 2008 13:50:59 -0400, Sparafucile wrote:
> > On Sun, 29 Jun 2008 00:18:01 -0400, robb wrote:
> >> My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
> > <snip>
> >> Any tips or advice ?
> >
not
> reading your post befor writing!
>
> However, Coffin is quite thorough (the video is great) and his
> instructions and illustrations may help!
> >
> > Complete instructions on how to use either can be found in
David
> > Coffin's book SHIRTMAKING, and the accompanying video-tape,
which you
> > may be able to get from your library.
>
Thanks for reply Serge,
I will try to locate a copy. My sewing library is meager but i do
try to keep it all high quality content.
thanks again,
robb
robb
"Kate XXXXXX" <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:bd6dnYjsc7p9EvrV...@posted.plusnet...
> robb wrote:
> > My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
> > When i hold the seam upright it twists some . If i cut the
seam
> > out with a 1/2 " of material to either side of flat felled
seam
> > the dangling seam twists like a corkscrew (not as severe) it
> > makes a full twist for every 4-5 inches of seam.
>
grain, or the
> foot pressure is shifting the second line of stitching...
>
> I never use a felling foot, I just press and sew with either
the
> ordinary foot or a walking foot if the fabric has a tendency to
creep.
> I rarely get this problem.
>
Thanks for the reply Kate,
I think your second analysis is my trouble -> *** shifting of
second line of stitching ***
when i look at the felled seam it looks good for the first 2
inches (5 cm) then for the next 6-8 inches (20 cm) there is a
definite shifting of the felled fabric seam allowance. I can see
a crooking/skew across the first seam. The weave just starts
bending more and more untill it is really bad at the end of the
seam and of course the corkscrew effect actually gets worst with
a longer seam.
So .... now, how do i figure out how / why the fabric is shifting
?
If it matters i am using a new to my collection **old** pfaff
creative 1475 and a pffaf 6.5 mm flat-felling foot
the foot is plastic, it has a lip to turn the seam and a raised
ridge on the right edge to catch/guide the first seam.
I have tried various seam allowances of top and bottom fabrics
and the result differences have been marginal if even present.
Is ther a proper manner to hold or move the fabric ? i usually
just try to keep fabric lying flat out front
Thanks for the time and help,
robb
robb
"Kay Lancaster" <k...@hub.fern.com> wrote in message
news:slrng6feh...@hub.fern.com...
> On Sun, 29 Jun 2008 00:18:01 -0400, robb <so...@where.on.net>
wrote:
> >
> > When i hold the seam upright it twists some . If i cut the
seam
> > out with a 1/2 " of material to either side of flat felled
seam
> > the dangling seam twists like a corkscrew (not as severe) it
> > makes a full twist for every 4-5 inches of seam.
>
> Betcha the fabric is stretching a bit as you're sewing. Try
lightening the
> presser foot pressure for the second stitching. If you're
pressing before
> the second stitching, try dry iron and pressing (up and down)
instead of
> ironing (side to side).
>
Thanks for the reply Kay,
I looked and examined the seams carefully ...
You and Kate have the rpoblem cornered.... stretching/warping
the fabric in second pass of stitching.
>
> You also see this sort of twisting on a curved felled seam --
the issue there
> is you're trying to stuff a larger seam allowance into a
smaller area,
> and if you make a very narrow fell (and clip the edge of the
allowance
> before felling), you can often get it to work. Sometimes I've
had to
> resort to hand basting or glue basting first.
>
> I don't have a felling foot for one of my machines, so I use a
modified
> general purpose foot. The modification is that I've added a
couple of
> layers of self-stick teflon to the underside on the right side
of
> the foot only,which gives me a foot that's thicker on the right
side
> than the left. The left rides on the felled seam, the right on
the single
> thickness of fabric, which levels out the pressure across the
area
> being sewn.
>
That is essentially the shape of this pfaff felling foot i am
using except that it will also curl/bend the fabric over.
There must be some problem with the feeding and this felling foot
or just plain operator error :)
I'll practice some more and use the analysis and advice to alter
what i do ... hopefully learn something useful
thanks again for helping,
robb
Phaedrine Stonebridge
"robb" <so...@where.on.net> wrote:
> My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
[...]
> I have been practicing my flat-felled seams as follows.
>
> * wrong sides together
> * I sew a SS with 5/8" seam
> * I trim one of the sides of the seam to about 1/8 ",
> * I press the larger 5/8" allowance over the shorter cut
> allowance ,
> * I fold the 5/8" seam allowance and slide fold into the felling
> foot
> * stitch
>
> Seam looks correct to me
You did not say how wide your objective seam is or how wide is your
feller. I'm assuming we're talking shirts here and not felled seams in
jeans since many home machines just can't handle that heavy duty a task.
> When i hold the seam upright it twists some . If i cut the seam
> out with a 1/2 " of material to either side of flat felled seam
> the dangling seam twists like a corkscrew (not as severe) it
> makes a full twist for every 4-5 inches of seam.
I have 4 different felling feet that I've been using on shirts for
many years. Flat-felled seams are one of the reasons that men's shirts
have much less curve in the armhole than women's more fitted blouses.
And the slight curve is why the widest feller is generally used at the
armhole. Finished armhole seams are generally 1/4" - 5/8" wide
depending on the weight of the fabric you are using and other factors.
By width, I am talking about the width of the *finished* seam from where
the fabric pieces are joined to the outer line of stitching. The object
is to make it as narrow as possible but with a really heavy oxford
cloth, for instance, you may need a full 5/8", especially until you are
more practiced.
The side/sleeve seam requires a narrower feller. On the shirts I
make for my husband, these are usually 5-6 mm for oxford and 4 for
poplin. I use a 3 mm feller for silkies and lawn on my own shirts. So
what can we deduce thus far?
(1) Not all cutting allowances should be 5/8". The cutting allowances
for a seam that will be felled varies with the expected width of the
finished seam. Until you can judge by fabric weight, you should
purchase extra fabric so you can do some test seams before you cut your
pattern. You are doing well to practice. :)
Felling with a foot is a two run operation. You do not sew a 5/8"
SS seam first and then trim. Instead, the two pieces you are sewing
should have different seam allowances with one wider than the other by
the width between the two straight prongs of your felling foot. That,
and only that, is what establishes the width of your finished seam--- if
using a felling foot. So, for convenience, assuming the width between
the prongs is 4 mm,
(2) for the first run, you place the fabric pieces *wrong* sides
together with the piece with the wider seam allowance on the bottom and
the top piece *slightly more* than 4 mm away from the outer edge and pin
the entire length of the seam. When you are more experienced you can
get away with less pinning. The "slightly more" part allows a smidgeon
for the fold. At the start of the seam, fold the bottom piece over the
top piece exactly 4 mm and place the felling foot on top, stationed so
that the 4 mm width is exactly between the two prongs. The needle
should catch the top fabric almost but not quite at the very edge--- no
more than a millimeter. Continue to sew, keeping the felling foot
aligned with the outer edge of the top fabric. This will allow the foot
to fold over the bottom fabric onto the top and sew it neatly, very
close to the edge. Your job is to guide it straight so the same width
of fabric is always entering the foot.
(3) Fold over, keeping the wrong side of the fabric on the bottom, and
press this first seam taking care not to glide the iron so as not to
stretch or warp the seam. Then slide it under the felling foot again,
lining up the left edge of the seam with the inner edge of the left
prong and sew a few stitches to secure the end of the seam. Stop with
the needle down and correctly position the 4 mm seam between the two 4
mm wide prongs, When you stitch, your right hand should be about 3-6"
away from the foot (toward you) holding the 4 mm seam in a vertical
position (standing up, perpendicular to the machine bed). That way, the
foot will turn the seam under in a consistent, neat width.
I second the recommendation for the David Page Coffin book. There is
none better for shirt-making. It has tons of diagrams and pictures.
His is the best method for the armhole felled seam that I've ever run
across. Use only 100% cotton at first; it is vastly more forgiving than
poly. And I recommend short sleeves first before you attempt felled
side seams in a long sleeve shirt. The order of putting a proper shirt
with real (not mock) felled seams is totally different than the usual
patterns. For a proper shirt, you need two fellers, one wide and one
narrow, and a medium rolled hemmer for the tails. Honestly, with a bit
a practice, you can make very professional looking shirts every bit as
nice or better than the best $100 shirt you can buy.
Phae
--
"The tree of Liberty must be refreshed from time to time
with the blood of patriots and tyrants."
-- Thomas Jefferson
Kate XXXXXX
As I've never bothered with a felling foot, I've no idea if this is part
of the problem or could be part of the solution. Tr with a walking foot
if you have one to fit, but also check the foot pressure: Too heavy a
'tread' can stretch the fabric out of kilter as you go.
>
> I have tried various seam allowances of top and bottom fabrics
> and the result differences have been marginal if even present.
I USUALLY just use a 5/8" seam allowance, cut the one down to about 1/3
of the original width, and press the other very carefully and firmly.
Then I pin carefully at strategig points if it's a curved seam. and just
sew. Don't try to hammer down the seams at top speed. Slowly to start
with until it's going well, and usually moderate speed is your top speed
fpr the second pass.
>
> Is ther a proper manner to hold or move the fabric ? i usually
> just try to keep fabric lying flat out front
Just keep a light 'taught sewing' pressure fore and aft of the needle
and moderate speed... If you are having real problems because the
fabric has some built in stretch (linen is particularly good at this!),
then try using spray starch on the seams as you press the fold in the
seam allowance and then press it over the trimmed one. And always start
at the same end! Usually best to sew from the top of the garment
towards the hem if possible.
Here are a sample or two of thius and other seams: >
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_types.htm
I know the sample is small, but I've never had the seam give me a
problem on long runs.
Phaedrine Stonebridge
Kate XXXXXX <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
[...]
> As I've never bothered with a felling foot, I've no idea if this is part
> of the problem or could be part of the solution. Tr with a walking foot
> if you have one to fit, but also check the foot pressure: Too heavy a
> 'tread' can stretch the fabric out of kilter as you go.
A walking foot would never work well on a flat-felled seam of any
reasonable thickness... unless, of course, the seam was at least the
width of the little rubber/plastic feet on the walking foot. ;) A
felling foot, OTOH, is designed to sit atop a flat-felled seam with four
layers of fabric.
> I USUALLY just use a 5/8" seam allowance, cut the one down to about 1/3
> of the original width, and press the other very carefully and firmly.... [...]
The OP is using a felling foot and your suggestion does not work for a
felling foot or a real felled seam (as opposed to mock-fell seams). The
amount of difference or the amount of lap is determined solely by the
size of the felling foot he is using (and the kind of fabric). For your
method to work, the space between the prongs on his felling foot would
have to be 1/3 of 5/8" (5/24"). Most felling feet are sized in
millimeters btw.
Here's a set of the best felling diagrams we're likely ever going to
find online, in a preview of the David Page Coffin book on shirt-making:
<http://books.google.com/books?id=xp4WBM3Zp7sC&pg=PA91&lpg=PA91&dq=+%22fe
lling+foot%22&source=web&ots=laE08QOnm4&sig=ghQjZ9xtkImqBHWojkskWBKn6io&h
l=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=17&ct=result#PPA92,M1>
You can see in these very plain but excellent illustrations how the
width between the prongs determines the seam width. Unless they've
actually used a felling foot, most people have a hard time
conceptualizing the process as it does not mesh well with either
commercial patterns or dress-making practices. And once you learn to
use one properly, you'll never do it any other way again. I recommend
that the OP preview and then order this book if he intends to do felled
seams decent enough to not look home-made.
cs_po...@hotmail.com
> My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
I'd join the others in suspecting that it's being oddly tensioned
against the first seam when you sew it down.
Something to try would be taking the felling foot off the machine and
running it down the seam with your fingers, sort of planishing the
fold in place, combined with finger pressing and maybe follow up with
an iron. This is both sort of a test operation, and also perhaps a
chance to get everything positioned right. If it will almost stay
folded, then you can run it through the machine and sew it down,
perhaps without using the felling foot at that point.
Kate XXXXXX
> In article <9_qdnUcgdok...@posted.plusnet>,
> Kate XXXXXX <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
> [...]
>> As I've never bothered with a felling foot, I've no idea if this is part
>> of the problem or could be part of the solution. Tr with a walking foot
>> if you have one to fit, but also check the foot pressure: Too heavy a
>> 'tread' can stretch the fabric out of kilter as you go.
>
> A walking foot would never work well on a flat-felled seam of any
> reasonable thickness... unless, of course, the seam was at least the
> width of the little rubber/plastic feet on the walking foot. ;) A
> felling foot, OTOH, is designed to sit atop a flat-felled seam with four
> layers of fabric.
I've never had any trouble using a walking foot on felled seams, in both
stretch knits and woven fabrics, which is why I suggest trying it. I've
used it on fine silk and thick denim, panne velvet, and all sorts.
>
>> I USUALLY just use a 5/8" seam allowance, cut the one down to about 1/3
>> of the original width, and press the other very carefully and firmly.... [...]
>
> The OP is using a felling foot and your suggestion does not work for a
> felling foot or a real felled seam (as opposed to mock-fell seams). The
> amount of difference or the amount of lap is determined solely by the
> size of the felling foot he is using (and the kind of fabric). For your
> method to work, the space between the prongs on his felling foot would
> have to be 1/3 of 5/8" (5/24"). Most felling feet are sized in
> millimeters btw.
The method I use is not designed for felling feet. I don't use them so
I don't need the technique used with them. The fold/press/starch method
works very well when you use an ordinary foot. Mind you, starching
stretch knits doesn't take too well... :D
>
> Here's a set of the best felling diagrams we're likely ever going to
> find online, in a preview of the David Page Coffin book on shirt-making:
>
> <http://books.google.com/books?id=xp4WBM3Zp7sC&pg=PA91&lpg=PA91&dq=+%22fe
> lling+foot%22&source=web&ots=laE08QOnm4&sig=ghQjZ9xtkImqBHWojkskWBKn6io&h
> l=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=17&ct=result#PPA92,M1>
I have this book, and again, while the method works for felling feet,
this method is al alternative to try when the felling foot method either
fails or is not available.
>
> You can see in these very plain but excellent illustrations how the
> width between the prongs determines the seam width. Unless they've
> actually used a felling foot, most people have a hard time
> conceptualizing the process as it does not mesh well with either
> commercial patterns or dress-making practices. And once you learn to
> use one properly, you'll never do it any other way again. I recommend
> that the OP preview and then order this book if he intends to do felled
> seams decent enough to not look home-made.
I think he says he has this one, and the felling foot method isn't
working...
Phaedrine Stonebridge
Kate XXXXXX <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
> Phaedrine Stonebridge wrote:
> > In article <9_qdnUcgdok...@posted.plusnet>,
> > Kate XXXXXX <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
> > [...]
> I've never had any trouble using a walking foot on felled seams, in both
> stretch knits and woven fabrics, which is why I suggest trying it. I've
> used it on fine silk and thick denim, panne velvet, and all sorts.
There's something to be said for using the proper tool for a given task.
The walking foot is not designed to do felled seams. You can use the
heel of your shoe to pound a nail but you'd get a far better, quicker
result with a tool designed specifically for the purpose--- a hammer.
> > The OP is using a felling foot and your suggestion does not work for a
> > felling foot or a real felled seam (as opposed to mock-fell seams). The
> > amount of difference or the amount of lap is determined solely by the
> > size of the felling foot he is using (and the kind of fabric). For your
> > method to work, the space between the prongs on his felling foot would
> > have to be 1/3 of 5/8" (5/24"). Most felling feet are sized in
> > millimeters btw.
>
> The method I use is not designed for felling feet.
I know. But the OP asked specifically about use of the felling foot.
He has one and wants to learn to use it.
> > You can see in these very plain but excellent illustrations how the
> > width between the prongs determines the seam width. Unless they've
> > actually used a felling foot, most people have a hard time
> > conceptualizing the process as it does not mesh well with either
> > commercial patterns or dress-making practices. And once you learn to
> > use one properly, you'll never do it any other way again. I recommend
> > that the OP preview and then order this book if he intends to do felled
> > seams decent enough to not look home-made.
>
> I think he says he has this one, and the felling foot method isn't
> working...
He said no such thing. There's nothing wrong with either the foot
design or the method. And there is most certainly nothing wrong with
David Coffin's book. Good grief. Thousands of shirts are made every
day in commercial operations using felling feet. The problem is that
the OP is not using the foot properly because he does not know how, and
how easy it really is once you grasp the process and practice a couple
seams. You cannot instruct him because you don't know how to use a
felling foot either.
BEI Design
news:alas-569F1C.0...@sn-indi.vsrv-sjc.supernews.net...
The above gratuitous scolding and lecture, aimed at perhaps
the *most valuable* member of this community, is
indisputable evidence of a supreme arrogance worthy of a
very public:
<PLONK>
Kate XXXXXX
> He said no such thing. There's nothing wrong with either the foot
> design or the method.
Um... I didn't say there was. But the felling foot method is producing
a corkscrew effect. Ergo, it is NOT working. The method I posted is an
alternative I have used successfully for over 30 years on all sorts of
fabrics.
> And there is most certainly nothing wrong with
> David Coffin's book.
I'm puzzled... Where did I say Mr Coffin's had something wrong with it?
Robb isn't getting the results he wants using this method, therefore
an alternative was offered.
Good grief. Thousands of shirts are made every
> day in commercial operations using felling feet. The problem is that
> the OP is not using the foot properly because he does not know how, and
> how easy it really is once you grasp the process and practice a couple
> seams. You cannot instruct him because you don't know how to use a
> felling foot either.
I DO know how. I have tried one. I once spent several hours with one,
after which I decided not to bother. I never bother now as I got the
results Robb did WITH one and I don't without. Why should I, mad gadget
and foot collector that I am, buy something that doesn't work as well
for me as using an alternative method developed long before the felling
foot was invented? Why do YOU have a problem with that?
As I don't own a felling foot (that I'm aware of - there may be one in
the collection of ancient unlabeled Singer feet, but without ready
reference to a complete Singer parts list for the past 80 years, I can't
tell), I can't go and do a test seam on some nice shirt fabric and make
any observations about getting his results or better ones. So I offered
an alternative. Why do you have a problem with that?
Always remember: there is NO One True Path... Even for hammering in nails.
Kate XXXXXX
> The above gratuitous scolding and lecture, aimed at perhaps
> the *most valuable* member of this community, is
> indisputable evidence of a supreme arrogance worthy of a
> very public:
>
> <PLONK>
I love you.
BEI Design
> BEI Design wrote:
>
>> The above gratuitous scolding and lecture, aimed at
>> perhaps the *most valuable* member of this community, is
>> indisputable evidence of a supreme arrogance worthy of a
>> very public:
>>
>> <PLONK>
>
> I love you.
I love you, too. ;-)
Beverly
Kay Lancaster
>
> I have been practicing my flat-felled seams as follows.
>
> Using --
>===========
> * using a 100% cotton percale 220 thread count
Hey Robb, I went back and looked at your original post again. Depending on
exactly how the fabric is constructed, part of your problem may be
"thread jamming" -- you're just getting too much thread into a seamline,
and the fabric is so closely woven that there just isn't room for the thread.
The typical result for this in plain a plain seam is puckering. Here, you've
got that "wing" of seam allowance after the first stitching, and
it may be part of that induced curvature issue, along with presser foot
pressure.
Some experiments to try:
Same setup, but on a more open fabric, like muslin
Longer stitch length
Seam not precisely on grainline
Lighter weight thread
One of the fun things about sewing is that no two pieces of fabric are
exactly alike, no two people ever sew exactly alike, no two projects are ever
exactly alike (unless you're doing at least small manufacturing) and no two
machines are ever exactly alike. Those are also the frustrating things
about sewing. <g>
The other thing about sewing that I have to remember now and again
is that there are usually at least half a dozen good ways to make
something -- which is why we have cutting scraps to play with. <vbg>
Kay
Phaedrine Stonebridge
Kate XXXXXX <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
> Phaedrine Stonebridge wrote:
>
> > He said no such thing. There's nothing wrong with either the foot
> > design or the method.
>
> Um... I didn't say there was.
Um... you did but you snipped it. I wonder why that is. What you said
was this:
" I think he says he has this one, and the felling foot method isn't
working..."
> But the felling foot method is producing a corkscrew effect.
I already indicated, at least twice, that he is not using the felling
foot correctly. This is readily apparent from his description. QED
It is not the "felling foot method". But yet, you insist on saying that
this "method" is not working. I wonder why that is.
> Ergo, it is NOT working. The method I posted is an
> alternative I have used successfully for over 30 years on all sorts of
> fabrics.
No one is saying your method is wrong for you, Kate, so you need not be
so defensive. But, I repeat, the OP asked for help using a felling
foot.
> > And there is most certainly nothing wrong with
> > David Coffin's book.
>
> I'm puzzled... Where did I say Mr Coffin's had something wrong with it?
When I recommended David Coffin's (highly respected) book, you said, "I
think he [the OP] says he has this one, and the felling foot method
isn't working..."
First of all, the OP never said he had the book or was using Coffin's
method. Rather, he said he'd look for the book. David Coffin was one
of the editors and frequent writers of Threads magazine btw. He is
highly talented and respected in his field. Robb could not have better
instruction than that.
> Robb isn't getting the results he wants using this method, therefore
> an alternative was offered.
Once again, Robb isn't using David's method. Robb is also not using the
felling foot properly. You are free, of course, to offer whatever
alternatives you wish, just as I am free to to explain how a felling
foot is actually used, how easy it is once one really knows, and to
correct and misunderstandings regarding the use of a felling foot that
anyone might communicate.
> Good grief. Thousands of shirts are made every
> > day in commercial operations using felling feet. The problem is that
> > the OP is not using the foot properly because he does not know how, and
> > how easy it really is once you grasp the process and practice a couple
> > seams. You cannot instruct him because you don't know how to use a
> > felling foot either.
>
> I DO know how. I have tried one. I once spent several hours with one,
> after which I decided not to bother. I never bother now as I got the
> results Robb did WITH one and I don't without. Why should I, mad gadget
> and foot collector that I am, buy something that doesn't work as well
> for me as using an alternative method developed long before the felling
> foot was invented? Why do YOU have a problem with that?
I don't, Kate. That is merely your very odd perception. You can use
whatever method that pleases you, of course. But while you may not be
able to master the use of a felling foot, it would be unwise to assume
that others cannot. I've mastered it. Hundreds of thousands of
shirt-makers have mastered it. And I feel confidant that Robb can as
well. If he chooses to make mock-felled seams instead, that is his
choice. I am only posting to this thread with the objective of
providing *accurate* information regarding the use of a felling foot.
Surely you can't have a problem with that, can you?
Kate XXXXXX
Not at all. I oonly 'have a problem' with being told *I'M@ being
>
> Phae
Kate XXXXXX
Kate XXXXXX
I have NO problem with Mr Coffins book. I have owned and used it for
years. YOU have a problem misinterpreting what I have said.
If Robb *IS* having a problem with mastering the foot (and clearly he
is, or there wouldn't be a corkscrew effect: therfore this foot and this
method method are NOT working - for Robb. He is after all, perfectly at
libery to keep trying until it does or he gives it up as a waste of his
time, as I did) and/or the method of using it, what is your problem with
my offering an alternative?
My take on this, as with many other methods, is there is no one way of
doing this, and it pays to explore all the methods you can and use the
ones that suit. If I can get perfect fast results using an ordinary
foot or a walking foot on all the different fabrics I use, why should I
invest time and money doing something that gives me crap results and
will take valuable time to master? I could be doing it better and being
paid for the time.
Pogonip
>
> One of the fun things about sewing is that no two pieces of fabric are
> exactly alike, no two people ever sew exactly alike, no two projects are ever
> exactly alike (unless you're doing at least small manufacturing) and no two
> machines are ever exactly alike. Those are also the frustrating things
> about sewing. <g>
>
> The other thing about sewing that I have to remember now and again
> is that there are usually at least half a dozen good ways to make
> something -- which is why we have cutting scraps to play with. <vbg>
>
> Kay
>
>
There's more than one road to Rome. ;-) Some of us sew for results,
others sew for process. Personally, I am a fan of the "man on
horseback" rule, but then I would never, ever hand quilt, or do any one
of a number of things that requires lots of time and patience to achieve
the same result (or reasonable facsimile) that a few minutes with my
trusty sewing machine will accomplish. Challenges are great, I suppose,
but I've never been a fan of making things more difficult than they have
to be.
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
http://members.tripod.com/~bernardschopen/
BEI Design
>
> If Robb *IS* having a problem with mastering the foot
> (and clearly he is, or there wouldn't be a corkscrew
> effect: therfore this foot and this method method are NOT
> working - for Robb. He is after all, perfectly at libery
> to keep trying until it does or he gives it up as a waste
> of his time, as I did) and/or the method of using it,
> what is your problem with my offering an alternative?
Kate, if you review the posting history of the person you
are replying to:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Phaedrine+Stonebridge&btnG=Google+Search
particularly this little gem:
http://www.usenet.com/newsgroups/soc.culture.afghanistan/msg00786.html
you'll save yourself a lot of time and aggravation by
invoking your killfile.
Beverly
Kate XXXXXX
> you'll save yourself a lot of time and aggravation by
> invoking your killfile.
>
> Beverly
I 'spoze... Sometimes poking anthills is fun though. Yeah, I'm
naughty! ;)
BEI Design
> BEI Design wrote:
>
> > you'll save yourself a lot of time and aggravation by
> > invoking your killfile.
> >
> > Beverly
>
> I 'spoze... Sometimes poking anthills is fun though.
> Yeah, I'm naughty! ;)
Oh, well as long as you're enjoying yourself, by all means
poke away! PS seems unable to carry on a Usenet
conversation without snarling and biting, so wear your
gloves and facemask. ;->
Beverly
Pogonip
Thanks for the link to that post. As a policy, I try to avoid neo-Nazis.
BEI Design
Pogonip wrote:
> BEI Design wrote:
> > Kate XXXXXX wrote:
> > > BEI Design wrote:
> > >
> > > > you'll save yourself a lot of time and aggravation
> > > > by invoking your killfile.
> > > >
> > > > Beverly
> > > I 'spoze... Sometimes poking anthills is fun though.
> > > Yeah, I'm naughty! ;)
> >
> > Oh, well as long as you're enjoying yourself, by all
> > means poke away! PS seems unable to carry on a Usenet
> > conversation without snarling and biting, so wear your
> > gloves and facemask. ;->
> >
> > Beverly
> >
> >
>
> Thanks for the link to that post. As a policy, I try to
> avoid neo-Nazis.
I'm not sure whether s/h/it is a fascist, a plain vanilla
Jew-baiter
<quote>
[...But, you are another Jewish dickhead. Try to calm down
before you have an epileptic seizure. Also, try and get
yourself educated.]
<end quote>
or what, but I have never yet found a contribution to
alt.sewing by that person which is not full of
combative/argumentative/disparaging garbage. I dropped
him/her into the sin-bin a long time ago, the only time I
see its offal is when others quote it. I have a big problem
with the attack on Kate.
Beverly
Phaedrine Stonebridge
Kate XXXXXX <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
> Ignore last two posts: having trouble with computer today...
> I have NO problem with Mr Coffins book. I have owned and used it for
> years. YOU have a problem misinterpreting what I have said.
I've not misinterpreted a thing, Kate. I quoted you word for word as
indicated in my last post. Of course you snipped all that again. One
need not wonder why.
I've said what needed saying and given my best help to Robb. If you or
anyone else in this NG, including that mentally disturbed, vicious old
lying hag Beverly, don't like what I've said, that's just too bad. We
all must suffer our disappointments. Have a pleasant day.
BEI Design
Mea culpa, the bit I quoted above was NOT written by PS, it
was a response *to* him/her. Nevertheless, the google
search yields plenty of evidence of the vitriol spewed by
PS.
Beverly
Pogonip
Apologies to PS for that.
robb
> robb wrote:
> > "Kate XXXXXX" <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote in
message
> > news:bd6dnYjsc7p9EvrV...@posted.plusnet...
>>> robb wrote:
>>>> My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
>>>>
>>> straight grain, or the foot pressure is shifting the
>>> second line of stitching...
>>>
>>> I never use a felling foot, I just press and sew
>>> with either the ordinary foot or a walking foot
>>> if the fabric has a tendency to creep.
>>> I rarely get this problem.
>>>
>>
>> Thanks for the reply Kate,
>> I think your second analysis is my trouble -> *** shifting of
>> second line of stitching ***
>>
>> when i look at the felled seam it looks good for the first 2
>> inches (5 cm) then for the next 6-8 inches (20 cm) there is a
>> definite shifting of the felled fabric seam allowance. I can
see
>> a crooking/skew across the first seam. The weave just starts
>> bending more and more untill it is really bad at the end of
the
>> seam and of course the corkscrew effect actually gets worst
with
>> a longer seam.
>>
Thanks Kate,
I appreciate all your time and effort to give helpful advice.
I did try your felling method just to try something different
and it did help remove the twist although i would probably need
to practice alot more to keep the seam edge even or maybe use a
different foot to help me keep things lined up .
Though not wanting this felling foot to get the best of me ...
i experimented more and it turns out the problem was due to
fabric creeping or shifting but it was exactly the opposite of
what i thought it was. I tried varying my fabric holding pressure
fore/aft as you had mentioned and i stumbled upon how the
creeping/shifting occured.
Seems the bottom fabric was slipping forward gradually. When
the seam was finished I pulled the fabric and seam to test it.
The bottom fabric would then shift the top seam down and the
twist would become more prominent.
Anyways if i hold the fore fabric taught and let machine do work
of pulling it then the shifting would stop and the twisting
stopped.
thanks again for the help.
I (like others) am very thankful to have a place to get great
sewing help.
robb
Emily Bengston
On 7/2/08 11:13 PM, in article
UMSdnR0gY7-7zPHV...@earthlink.com, "robb" <so...@where.on.net>
wrote:
After some 67+ years sewing, I've found just a tiny detail change sometimes
works miracles in sewing. I am happy you solved the problem of the
creeping/twisting fall-felled seam.
Emily
robb
Thanks for all the great tips and info. I do appreciate the help,
You pretty much touched/addressed many of my amateur
shortcut/mistakes.
Not pinning, nor preparing the seam enough etc ..
As it turns out the fabric was shifting/skewing. I experimented
with various changes in my fabric feeding method. Creating a drag
on the left fabric, (in direct line with foot) when machine was
moving te fabric, seemed to give me the best results but i am not
sure if that would be considered a proper solution.
Thanks again for help.
more comments in line below ...
"Phaedrine Stonebridge" <al...@nospam.never> wrote in message
news:alas-3D3531.0...@sn-indi.vsrv-sjc.supernews.net...
> In article <x72dnW19X_jMkfrV...@earthlink.com>,
> "robb" <so...@where.on.net> wrote:
>
> > My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
> > I have been practicing my flat-felled seams as follows.
> >
> > * wrong sides together
> > * I sew a SS with 5/8" seam
> > * I trim one of the sides of the seam to about 1/8 ",
> > * I press the larger 5/8" allowance over the shorter cut
> > allowance ,
> > * I fold the 5/8" seam allowance and slide fold into the
felling
> > foot
> > * stitch
> >
>
> You did not say how wide your objective seam is or how wide is
your
> feller. I'm assuming we're talking shirts here and not felled
seams in
> jeans since many home machines just can't handle that heavy
duty a task.
>
I have the 6.5 mm and 4.5 mm foot.
The 4.5 did not appear have as much twist problem as the 6.5 mm
did
> > When i hold the seam upright it twists some . If i cut the
seam
> > out with a 1/2 " of material to either side of flat felled
seam
> > the dangling seam twists like a corkscrew (not as severe) it
> > makes a full twist for every 4-5 inches of seam.
>
> I have 4 different felling feet that I've been using on
shirts for
> many years. Flat-felled seams are one of the reasons that
men's shirts
> have much less curve in the armhole than women's more fitted
blouses.
> And the slight curve is why the widest feller is generally used
at the
> armhole. Finished armhole seams are generally 1/4" - 5/8" wide
> depending on the weight of the fabric you are using and other
factors.
> By width, I am talking about the width of the *finished* seam
from where
> the fabric pieces are joined to the outer line of stitching.
The object
> is to make it as narrow as possible but with a really heavy
oxford
> cloth, for instance, you may need a full 5/8", especially until
you are
> more practiced.
>
> The side/sleeve seam requires a narrower feller. On the
shirts I
> make for my husband, these are usually 5-6 mm for oxford and 4
for
> poplin. I use a 3 mm feller for silkies and lawn on my own
shirts. So
> what can we deduce thus far?
>
> (1) Not all cutting allowances should be 5/8". The cutting
allowances
> for a seam that will be felled varies with the expected width
of the
> finished seam. Until you can judge by fabric weight, you
should
> purchase extra fabric so you can do some test seams before you
cut your
> pattern. You are doing well to practice. :)
>
> Felling with a foot is a two run operation. You do not
sew a 5/8"
> SS seam first and then trim. Instead, the two pieces you are
sewing
> should have different seam allowances with one wider than the
other by
> the width between the two straight prongs of your felling foot.
That,
> and only that, is what establishes the width of your finished
seam--- if
> using a felling foot. So, for convenience, assuming the width
between
> the prongs is 4 mm,
>
> (2) for the first run, you place the fabric pieces *wrong*
sides
> together with the piece with the wider seam allowance on the
bottom and
> the top piece *slightly more* than 4 mm away from the outer
edge and pin
> the entire length of the seam. When you are more experienced
you can
> get away with less pinning. The "slightly more" part allows a
smidgeon
> for the fold. At the start of the seam, fold the bottom piece
over the
> top piece exactly 4 mm and place the felling foot on top,
stationed so
> that the 4 mm width is exactly between the two prongs. The
needle
> should catch the top fabric almost but not quite at the very
edge--- no
> more than a millimeter. Continue to sew, keeping the felling
foot
> aligned with the outer edge of the top fabric. This will allow
the foot
> to fold over the bottom fabric onto the top and sew it neatly,
very
> close to the edge. Your job is to guide it straight so the
same width
> of fabric is always entering the foot.
>
well i am commiting some these mistakes, i guess i think i am
already more experienced and my equipment is protesting
>
> (3) Fold over, keeping the wrong side of the fabric on the
bottom, and
> press this first seam taking care not to glide the iron so as
not to
> stretch or warp the seam. Then slide it under the felling foot
again,
> lining up the left edge of the seam with the inner edge of the
left
> prong and sew a few stitches to secure the end of the seam.
Stop with
> the needle down and correctly position the 4 mm seam between
the two 4
> mm wide prongs, When you stitch, your right hand should be
about 3-6"
> away from the foot (toward you) holding the 4 mm seam in a
vertical
> position (standing up, perpendicular to the machine bed). That
way, the
> foot will turn the seam under in a consistent, neat width.
>
I tried this and it and it did make a perfect and more consistent
seam though did not appear the prevent the twisting.
Thanks for your time and all the helpful info,
robb
robb
"Kay Lancaster" <k...@hub.fern.com> wrote in message
news:slrng6n1r...@hub.fern.com...
> On Sun, 29 Jun 2008 00:18:01 -0400, robb <so...@where.on.net>
wrote:
> > My flat-felled seams are twisting. what am i doing wrong ?
>
Thanks or all te help Kay,
I did try and experiment more with all the helpful info and ideas
you and others provided.
The twisting was lessened by tensioning (creating a feed drag)
of the left side fabric on second seam pass but i am not sure
that is a solution.
Anyways i like putting these fancy feet to work
Thanks again,
robb
Kate XXXXXX
> Thanks Kate,
>
> I appreciate all your time and effort to give helpful advice.
>
> I did try your felling method just to try something different
> and it did help remove the twist although i would probably need
> to practice alot more to keep the seam edge even or maybe use a
> different foot to help me keep things lined up .
All these techniques take a little practice. I tend to forget just how
much some things take: this is one of those techniques I learned back in
the Dark Ages (1960's!) when I was a kid. Mum didn't have a felling
foot for her straight stitch only Singer 99K. This is the way the
sewing books all taught it before felling feet were common, so I just
stick with it.
>
> Though not wanting this felling foot to get the best of me ...
> i experimented more and it turns out the problem was due to
> fabric creeping or shifting but it was exactly the opposite of
> what i thought it was. I tried varying my fabric holding pressure
> fore/aft as you had mentioned and i stumbled upon how the
> creeping/shifting occured.
The thing with using the 'taut sewing' technique is that it doesn't
matter if the foot is holding back the tiop layers (which I suspect from
your description) or pushing it forward, ahead of the bottom layer, it
cures it most of the time. Magic! AND it works with almost any foot.
>
> Seems the bottom fabric was slipping forward gradually. When
> the seam was finished I pulled the fabric and seam to test it.
> The bottom fabric would then shift the top seam down and the
> twist would become more prominent.
>
> Anyways if i hold the fore fabric taught and let machine do work
> of pulling it then the shifting would stop and the twisting
> stopped.
This is always the problem: people tend to be in a bit of a hurry and
pull the fabric through the mechine using thius technique. The trick it
to keep a light but ballanced pressure from fore and aft and let the
feed dogs do the work. That IS what they are fore, after all.
>
> thanks again for the help.
> I (like others) am very thankful to have a place to get great
> sewing help.
You're very welcome. We love to help. And the great thing about a
group like this is that we can offer different things for you to try, so
you can pick the one most intuative to you and with which YOU get the
best results. Ususally that works out as a mixture of different ideas
from different places! :D
There may be some classic ways of doing things, but even in the best
cotoure houses they can tell who sewed which seam by looking at the way
the seamtress did it - especially with hand stitched seams! And those
stitchers waste no time and effort, I'm telling you!
Kate XXXXXX
> After some 67+ years sewing, I've found just a tiny detail change sometimes
> works miracles in sewing. I am happy you solved the problem of the
> creeping/twisting fall-felled seam.
> Emily
>
That's one reason I like the exchange of ideas in this group. There's
such a wealth of experience here to learn from!
Doreen Hendrix
> In article <OumdnQ2D388...@posted.plusnet>,
> Kate XXXXXX <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Ignore last two posts: having trouble with computer today...
>
>> I have NO problem with Mr Coffins book. I have owned and used it for
>> years. YOU have a problem misinterpreting what I have said.
>
> I've not misinterpreted a thing, Kate. I quoted you word for word as
> indicated in my last post. Of course you snipped all that again. One
> need not wonder why.
>
> I've said what needed saying and given my best help to Robb. If you or
> anyone else in this NG, including that mentally disturbed, vicious old
> lying hag Beverly, don't like what I've said, that's just too bad. We
> all must suffer our disappointments. Have a pleasant day.
>
> Phae
Ms Stonebridge,
Please do us all a favor and Go Away. Permanently.
Doreen in Alabama
BEI Design
Oh, I missed it is PS having a melt-down??? Thanks Doreen.
;-)
Pogonip
BEI Design
For a long time I simply flagged her messages with a
specific color, now all messages from that source disappear
into the ether. What a waste of electrons.
Beverly
gjones2938
First, you're trimming off too much of the seam. Trim it to half its
size, rather than 1/8 inch. Then, fold the remaining seam over and
press. By doing it this way, the seam is supported by the trimmed
one, and should stay straight. The pressed seam allowance should
encase the trimmed one.
Teri
gjones2938
I also meant to tell you not to use the felling foot. It's awkward at
best, and your regular straight-stitch foot will be easier to keep
accurate stitching right next to the edge of the pressed seam
allowance.
Teri
robb
"gjones2938" <gpj...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:13ca74ca-a731-4bd3...@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...
Thanks for help Teri,
I like trying any methods i have not tried to find a method that
helps make my sewing more consistent.
thanks again,
robb
robb
I'll try it out Teri,
the advantage of the felling foot *for me* are the
grooves/channel on the bottom of the felling foot that are set at
the width of the felled seam that helps guide the fabric ... at
least that is what it is suppose to do ;)
i will try other standard feet for comparison. i thought some of
the guided feet might work as well.
thanks again,
robb
Kate XXXXXX
(waves at Teri)
Hiya! Where have you been? Great to see you back. :)
And good to see you recommrnd the method I use.
robb
"robb" <so...@where.on.net> wrote in message
news:A46dnVRjKrlH9e_V...@earthlink.com...
another presser foot before according to katexxx suggestions but
had trouble keeping the seam straight but then i thought that if
i could find some other guided foot i could probably get it to
work better for me.. that is until i am alot better at guiding
the material
robb
Sparafucile
Gee, I don't know about that Terri. I'm a beginner too, and using the
felling foot (as well as the rolled hem foot), and following David
Coffin's video and book, I get great seams and hems with no problems.
It feeds and folds the fabric so neatly that I'm amazed.
OTOH, I find it awkard and difficult to do a flat felled seam using a
straight-stitch foot. I can only assume that its your years of
experience that enable you to do a good job without one!
--
Ciao,
Serge
“I love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.”
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
7/8/2008 12:12:37 AM
Phaedrine Stonebridge
"robb" <so...@where.on.net> wrote:
> Thanks Phae,
>
> Thanks for all the great tips and info. I do appreciate the help,
>
> You pretty much touched/addressed many of my amateur
> shortcut/mistakes.
>
> Not pinning, nor preparing the seam enough etc ..
>
> As it turns out the fabric was shifting/skewing. I experimented
> with various changes in my fabric feeding method. Creating a drag
> on the left fabric, (in direct line with foot) when machine was
> moving te fabric, seemed to give me the best results but i am not
> sure if that would be considered a proper solution.
>
> Thanks again for help.
You're quite welcome. I'm glad I was able to help at least a little. I
was intent to help you because I knew that once you got the hang of it,
it would be so much easier and your finished product would look so much
more professional. Writing all that out was a bit tricky. I had the
distinct advantage of having a published expert teach right at my own
machine. It is just so much easier that way.
Use of both the felling feet and the rolled hemmers are very different
than almost all other sewing feet in that they require some different
positioning of the hand holding the fabric as it feeds into the foot.
This positioning will vary with each different fabric you use as well as
when you are going around curved edges as with shirt tails. They also
require somewhat of a drag on the fabric, as you said, which I forgot to
mention. You get so used to doing things, it is hard to remember each
thing that has become second hand. Anyway, I'm glad it's going better
and I feel confidant you'll master it in no time.
gjones2938
I missed you, too. My husband has been very ill since November. He
had a cancerous kidney, which was removed. But he was so ill with his
other problems (heart disease, spinal stinosis, diabetes, dimentia)
that he was confined to a nursing home until April. He hated it. We
couldn't take him home because of the many stairs everywhere, so we
had to move in with my daughter. She lives in the country, where
internet access and cell phones are virtually unknown. We finally got
satellite service. It's lovely here, but confining because I don't
drive and have to depend on my daughter to get me around. She works
odd hours (oncology nurse) and sleeps during the day, so getting
around is chancy. But we have sold our house, and things are getting
better. My husband is much happier here, surrounded by his family.
I just got my one-year-clear diagnosis from my doctor. I feel great,
and think I'm going to beat the odds.
Most of my sewing lately has been by hand because we're not completely
moved yet. I've made about a dozen dolls in various designs--eight
Hittys and Friends (but my design from the book illustrations), a
couple in the manner of Izannah Walker, and the latest one is a copy
of a Lenci. She's waiting for hair; the IWs have their underwear, but
I haven't been inspired to make the clothes yet. I did a smaller
version of the IW dolls with a purchased mold, but didn't think it
looked enough like the originals. She's cute, but not a replica. The
other sewing I've done recently was for my daughter--she never has
enough scrubs...
teri
gjones2938
I'll be 71 next birthday. I learned to sew on a treadle machine.
There were no such things as specialty feet. When one learns that
way, newfangled things like motorized machines, are extraneous. I
still love to sew by hand to get fine finishes on my things. My
dolls' clothing will be heirlooms because they are embellished and
mainly sewn by hand. That doesn't mean that I eschew all new
technology. I learned to use a computer before most of my students.
And I try all kinds of tools and supplies that make sewing easier.
Except for my zipper foot, the remainder of my feet have rarely come
out of the box.
I once had Berninas in one of my studios, and I did use the
edgestitching foot.
And David Coffin's book on shirts is fine, except I would never in a
million years use muslin for interfacing. I used his method for
sleeve vents to teach my students, and aside from at least two every
semester doing both sleeves the same instead of reversing for the
second sleeve, they found the method easy.
Teri
Kate XXXXXX
> Hi Kate,
>
> I missed you, too. My husband has been very ill since November. He
> had a cancerous kidney, which was removed. But he was so ill with his
> other problems (heart disease, spinal stinosis, diabetes, dimentia)
> that he was confined to a nursing home until April. He hated it. We
> couldn't take him home because of the many stairs everywhere, so we
> had to move in with my daughter. She lives in the country, where
> internet access and cell phones are virtually unknown. We finally got
> satellite service. It's lovely here, but confining because I don't
> drive and have to depend on my daughter to get me around. She works
> odd hours (oncology nurse) and sleeps during the day, so getting
> around is chancy. But we have sold our house, and things are getting
> better. My husband is much happier here, surrounded by his family.
They come not in single spies bu in batallions... You had enough
problems to deal with already without this. I'm glad to hear your
husband is improving and that he's now happy.
I don't drive either, so I understand that one... We live out on the
edge of a village, and the bus service is good, but built round kids and
schools and grannies, noot working mums! Not surprizing really, as
those ARE the major passenger groups, but it can be frustrating.
Luckily we get phone-line broadband here, and are well covered for
mobile phones. We don't get cable or Freeview TV, and only 4 terestrial
chanels, which is a bit of a bind at times as there are a few things I'd
like to watch on chanel 5 and The History Chanel, but hey - there's
always plenty of sewing to do, and I can catch up some of the telly with
iPlayer or on DVD later (like Heros! Just had a Heroes-fest and watched
the whole of series 1 in a week! :D )
>
> I just got my one-year-clear diagnosis from my doctor. I feel great,
> and think I'm going to beat the odds.
Yay! And you will with that positive attitude.
>
> Most of my sewing lately has been by hand because we're not completely
> moved yet. I've made about a dozen dolls in various designs--eight
> Hittys and Friends (but my design from the book illustrations), a
> couple in the manner of Izannah Walker, and the latest one is a copy
> of a Lenci. She's waiting for hair; the IWs have their underwear, but
> I haven't been inspired to make the clothes yet. I did a smaller
> version of the IW dolls with a purchased mold, but didn't think it
> looked enough like the originals. She's cute, but not a replica. The
> other sewing I've done recently was for my daughter--she never has
> enough scrubs...
I'll never understand that... Here scrubs are issued by the hospital
laundry service. The nurses pay for and launder their own uniforms, but
if they need scrubs, those are provided.
The dolls sound adoreable. I'm looking forward to a couple of doll
projects myself this summer. A friend has a couple of this sort that
are in dire need of clothing: >
http://www.volksusa.com/super-dollfie-super-dollfie.html
It'll be different! Haven't done dolls for 35 years at least! I've got
some super-fine silk chiffon left over from last summers bias cut
layered dress project that I'm going to use for one outfit... Miniature
hand-stitched flat felled seams may be in the offing! We're still
debating the Historical/Fantasy dress code. I'm thinking 18th C sack
back gown with panniers and fairy wings myself!
Kate XXXXXX
Me too! I always check with the instructions, but they are the easiest
to follow I've ever found.
I too wondered about the muslin/calico for interfacing. I could never
understand why he didn't just use industry standard shirt interfacing. I
can get that easily from a tailoring supply place I use regularly. I've
used an extra two layers of the shirt fabric in a historical shirt
before now, where the stiffness was given by extreem starching (the old
'boiled shirt' fronts they used to wear with white ties and tails, and
little gold studs rather than buttons. I remember my dad having shirts
like this too, for use with his RAF Officers Mess Kit, like this:
http://www.northwestsupplies.co.uk/products/bnsrmn.jpg [though Dad's was
made by Gieves & Hawkes, and looked MUCH smarter!}. These days they use
the 'golf ball' type shirts - more comfortable but not as smart).
Kathleen
>
> I'll never understand that... Here scrubs are issued by the hospital
> laundry service. The nurses pay for and launder their own uniforms, but
> if they need scrubs, those are provided.
Standard scrubs come in a variety of "many sizes fits none". If you'd
rather not look like a pile of dirty laundry you provide your own.
Sparafucile
> Dear Serge,
>
> I'll be 71 next birthday. I learned to sew on a treadle machine.
> There were no such things as specialty feet. When one learns that
> way, newfangled things like motorized machines, are extraneous. I
> still love to sew by hand to get fine finishes on my things. My
> dolls' clothing will be heirlooms because they are embellished and
> mainly sewn by hand.
THanks for your reply; I think your story is wonderful! I knew that
you must be really experienced, because I've been sewing about seven
months, and most of the tasks in Coffin's book, are, well,
exasperating. But the specialty feet do help beginners like me!
>
> And David Coffin's book on shirts is fine, except I would never in a
> million years use muslin for interfacing.
At some point in the book - or perhaps the video - he actually does
suggest using industry interfacing from American Sember Supply. To be
perfectly honest, I'm not anywhere near that point yet....
> I used his method for
> sleeve vents to teach my students, and aside from at least two every
> semester doing both sleeves the same instead of reversing for the
> second sleeve, they found the method easy.
I'd love to find a live class for shirtmaking with a teacher like
you! It took me MANY viewings of the videotape to even understand what
the heck he was doing with the plackets and cuffs! And mine still
look, well, home-made! Not at all like his; it's very frustrating. I'm
beginning to think that making a fine dress shirt as a first project
is a bad idea.....
--
Ciao,
Serge
“I love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.”
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
7/9/2008 8:57:06 PM
Sparafucile
> [though Dad's was
> made by Gieves & Hawkes, and looked MUCH smarter!}. These days they use
> the 'golf ball' type shirts - more comfortable but not as smart).
Wouldn't surprise me at all that they looked smarter; G&H makes
lovely suits! Do you have any idea what bespoke shirts cost these
days? G&H doesn't sell here in the states, but Poole and Huntsman do,
and their RTW shirts are about $300.
Here in the States we're talking $500 to start for a bespoke shirt,
minimum order of four, thank you! When I was a young lawyer, and much
more foolish with my money, I ordered bespoke shirts and suits (they
were MUCH less expensive then); thirty years later, I buy my clothing
off the rack and have it altered!
--
Ciao,
Serge
“I love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.”
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
7/9/2008 9:05:48 PM
BEI Design
> I'd love to find a live class for shirtmaking with a
> teacher like you! It took me MANY viewings of the
> videotape to even understand what the heck he was doing
> with the plackets and cuffs! And mine still look, well,
> home-made! Not at all like his; it's very frustrating.
> I'm beginning to think that making a fine dress shirt as
> a first project is a bad idea.....
Gee, ya' think??? I bet when you first passed the bar you
were NOT handed the most important corporate clients to
represent away, either. :-\
Beverly
Sparafucile
Y'know, some things are obvious; others, not. For example, I could
see that making a suit would be a tremendously difficult and complex
undertaking (I watched the tailor carefully each time I was fitted for
a bespoke suit, and it took many fittings); but as a beginning sewist,
I really didn't think it would be *that* difficult to make a fine
shirt.
After all, I've been wearing them all of my life and they don't look
all that complex; and it only took two fittings before I was presented
with a lovely bespoke shirt by my tailor. So to my beginner's eyes it
seemed as if making one would be a somewhat easy task - not to mention
that a book and videotape with instructions was readily available! And
Coffin is bristling with confidence: he makes it *seem* easy as he
chats to you on the video.
At this point, I think I'm going to put this project on hold, and go
for a camp shirt....(six months ago, I didn't even know what a camp
shirt was!)
And FWIW, I'm a plaintiff's PI lawyer in an ordinary middle-class
firm; and yes, within a month or so of passing the bar, you're given
your first case to try - for litigators it's trial-by-fire, not so, it
seems for tailors!
--
Ciao,
Serge
“I love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.”
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
7/10/2008 12:23:27 AM
Pogonip
> Dear Serge,
>
> I'll be 71 next birthday. I learned to sew on a treadle machine.
> There were no such things as specialty feet. When one learns that
> way, newfangled things like motorized machines, are extraneous.
You may not have had them, but treadle machines come with a selection of
specialty feet and instructions for their use. I particularly like the
Singer "puzzle box" fitted with various width hemmers, a tucker,
ruffler, underbraider, etc., as illustrated here:
http://www.treadleon.net/sewingmachineshop/atttachmentsmanual/attachments.html
Kate XXXXXX
intensive care, and barrier nursing, and odd things like SCBU, and have
to be sterile (or as close as possible), so are issued as such at the
time of use. Theatre staff change to a clean set between operations.
BEI Design
I made a three-piece suit for my DH. I have sewn for over 60
years, and feel very accomplished sewing women's clothing,
including using some couture techniques. However, I bought
several books on menswear tailoring (a different skill-set
then the ones I already had), studied the text and pictures
very carefully, then started in. I learned padding stitches
for jacket interfacing for the first time. And I'm not at
all sure I had ever made a back vent in a jacket before, so
that was another bit of learning. The way the collar on a
man's jacket is constructed is very different from a
woman's. I loved the whole process, but I would NOT have
wanted to do it as a *first* (or even twentieth) project.
;-)
> After all, I've been wearing them all of my life and they
> don't look all that complex; and it only took two
> fittings before I was presented with a lovely bespoke
> shirt by my tailor. So to my beginner's eyes it seemed as
> if making one would be a somewhat easy task - not to
> mention that a book and videotape with instructions was
> readily available! And Coffin is bristling with
> confidence: he makes it *seem* easy as he chats to you on
> the video.
> At this point, I think I'm going to put this project on
> hold, and go for a camp shirt....(six months ago, I
> didn't even know what a camp shirt was!)
Good choice. I would compare those two projects as the
difference between assembling a bicycle and assembling a
Ferrari: Both take pretty much the same skills, but the
Ferrari takes more of them. ;-)
> And FWIW, I'm a plaintiff's PI lawyer in an ordinary
> middle-class firm; and yes, within a month or so of
> passing the bar, you're given your first case to try -
> for litigators it's trial-by-fire, not so, it seems for
> tailors!
I omitted "right" in my comment ("right away"). I don't
doubt that you were thrown right into the fire, but probably
not with the firms MOST important client, correct? Same
thing here, do your learning on simpler projects, move on to
the more complex ones later, after you have developed more
of the skills required. One does not start learning math
with calculus....
Good luck!
Beverly
BEI Design
> Kathleen wrote:
> > Kate XXXXXX wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I'll never understand that... Here scrubs are issued
> > > by the hospital laundry service. The nurses pay for
> > > and launder their own uniforms, but if they need
> > > scrubs, those are provided.
> >
> > Standard scrubs come in a variety of "many sizes fits
> > none". If you'd rather not look like a pile of dirty
> > laundry you provide your own.
> Here scrubs are usually only worn for theatre, high
> dependence, intensive care, and barrier nursing, and odd
> things like SCBU, and have to be sterile (or as close as
> possible), so are issued as such at the time of use.
> Theatre staff change to a clean set between operations.
Here (on the west coast of America), practically everyone
employed in a hospital wears "scrubs" but they are not
necessarily sterile. For instance, my DD works in a
hospital lab. She wears scrubs to work and puts on a white
lab coat over them *at* work. I suspect it's the hospital's
attempt to make all staff look "professional" without
actually having to enforce a dress code.
Beverly
Kate XXXXXX
> On Wed, 09 Jul 2008 08:21:08 +0100, Kate XXXXXX wrote:
>
>> [though Dad's was
>> made by Gieves & Hawkes, and looked MUCH smarter!}. These days they use
>> the 'golf ball' type shirts - more comfortable but not as smart).
>
> Wouldn't surprise me at all that they looked smarter; G&H makes
> lovely suits! Do you have any idea what bespoke shirts cost these
> days? G&H doesn't sell here in the states, but Poole and Huntsman do,
> and their RTW shirts are about $300.
No idea what a bespoke shirt costs these days, but last time I asked G&H
a two piece suit was £2000, an undecorated RAF officers No 1 uniform
(Mess Kit is the No 5 uniform) was £1500. Dad bought his uniform shirts
ready made (17 1/2" collar), and RTW 'every day' trousers and 'woolly
pully' jerseys, but had dress uniforms made. He was an odd shape:
5'10", 44" chest, 36" waist, 29" inside leg... He used to say he was a
6'3" bloke on a 5'2" bloke's legs!
>
> Here in the States we're talking $500 to start for a bespoke shirt,
> minimum order of four, thank you! When I was a young lawyer, and much
> more foolish with my money, I ordered bespoke shirts and suits (they
> were MUCH less expensive then); thirty years later, I buy my clothing
> off the rack and have it altered!
I make mine and get it even cheaper! DH's last suit cost me £70 in
fabrics: 100% pure new wook Venetian cloth in a nice grey. I charge
about £200 to make a jacket and £60-£80 for trousers. I'd love to do
some work experience with both G&H and the Royal Opera House costume
folk. My idea of heaven.
Our local branch of a national chain of gents outfitters usually does an
off the peg suit, 2 shirts and a pair of shoes for £150, which is an
ideal way to outfit your new sixth-former for his last two years of
school (16-18), when they have job interviews and uni interviews and all
sorts of occasions for looking smart. First time I taught there, I
thought all these giant young men looked daft in school uniform (my
school back in the 70's had a dress code for sixth form of 'office suit
- dress as thpough you worked in a solicitor's or a bank or somewhere
like that: NO JEANS! TIE at all times for boys, and skirts had to be
decent but not ankle length! Hard for us closet hippies... ). I do
think the lads look very smart as they wander round town and through the
school. I much preferred their look the second time I was there, and
now that the lad is a student. He's only just ending his second year
there (year 8), and already as big as half the male staff and a lot of
the sixth form (nowdays years 12 & 13). I make him quite a lot of
trousers and buy what I have to in the 'outlet' stores or through the
school shop for uniform items I can't get elsewhere or are the same
price elsewhere. The trouble with school uniform is that the little
blighters turn into BIG blighters and grow out of the damned stuff! Or
they jump over walls and rip holes in it and their knees... The good
thing about most uniform items is that they are cheaper than I can make
them for, especially if I cost in my time.
Kate XXXXXX
> On Wed, 9 Jul 2008 19:19:22 -0700, BEI Design wrote:
>
>> Sparafucile wrote:
>>
>>> I'd love to find a live class for shirtmaking with a
>>> teacher like you! It took me MANY viewings of the
>>> videotape to even understand what the heck he was doing
>>> with the plackets and cuffs! And mine still look, well,
>>> home-made! Not at all like his; it's very frustrating.
>>> I'm beginning to think that making a fine dress shirt as
>>> a first project is a bad idea.....
>> Gee, ya' think??? I bet when you first passed the bar you
>> were NOT handed the most important corporate clients to
>> represent away, either. :-\
>>
>> Beverly
>
> Y'know, some things are obvious; others, not. For example, I could
> see that making a suit would be a tremendously difficult and complex
> undertaking (I watched the tailor carefully each time I was fitted for
> a bespoke suit, and it took many fittings); but as a beginning sewist,
> I really didn't think it would be *that* difficult to make a fine
> shirt.
Remember that you not only have to master the pattern and the cloth, but
also the tools, and learning to steer a sewing machine well enough to
get those perfect seams takes months of practice - every day! It's a
skilled operation.
G&H usually do 3-4 fittings for a suit, but may do more for one of the
closer fitting dress uniforms such as the Royal Artillery: >
http://www.mod.uk/NR/rdonlyres/A45064BD-D44B-48E1-A488-6FBA5A252EC9/0/GunSaluteHydePark.jpg
>
> After all, I've been wearing them all of my life and they don't look
> all that complex; and it only took two fittings before I was presented
> with a lovely bespoke shirt by my tailor. So to my beginner's eyes it
> seemed as if making one would be a somewhat easy task - not to mention
> that a book and videotape with instructions was readily available! And
> Coffin is bristling with confidence: he makes it *seem* easy as he
> chats to you on the video.
Yes, but you have been doing this for a couple of months, and NOT as a
full time job. You cannot expect to have the same physical skill and
facility with the stuff of shirtmaking as one who may have been making
the damned things every day for 40 years! Tailors don't make shirts:
they send the work out to shirtmakers, the same way they send the
buttonholes out to be done (by hand by the best tailors) to buttonhole
stitchers who do nothing for 8 hours a day 5 days a week but sew
buttonholes. I've been sewing most days of my life for over 40 years,
and I don't pretend to have their skills. That's partly what you are
paying for with this stuff.
>
> At this point, I think I'm going to put this project on hold, and go
> for a camp shirt....(six months ago, I didn't even know what a camp
> shirt was!)
Good move. learn to handle the machine and fabric, to make good
straight, strong seams, and then start on the posh frockery. ;)
My first garment project (at the age of seven) was a dirndle style skirt
with two seams, a waistband, a zip and a hem. My mum forgot to tell me
zips were supposed to be 'difficult', and I rarely have problems with
them. The shirt is the same: there really is nothing particularly
difficult about making a good shirt, but the skills to make it look
professional only come with time and lots of practice. Be kind to
yourself: don't rush it, give yourself time, and don't think you are
useless if one little thing goes wrong. We all make errors and we all
have to do things several times to embed the skills.
>
> And FWIW, I'm a plaintiff's PI lawyer in an ordinary middle-class
> firm; and yes, within a month or so of passing the bar, you're given
> your first case to try - for litigators it's trial-by-fire, not so, it
> seems for tailors!
>
Oooh, I dunno... Even the apprenteces have to work on this sort of
thing sometimes: > http://householdcavalry.info/images/german.gif
Pogonip
>
> Here (on the west coast of America), practically everyone
> employed in a hospital wears "scrubs" but they are not
> necessarily sterile. For instance, my DD works in a
> hospital lab. She wears scrubs to work and puts on a white
> lab coat over them *at* work. I suspect it's the hospital's
> attempt to make all staff look "professional" without
> actually having to enforce a dress code.
>
> Beverly
>
>
"hospital green" or blue scrubs. Colorful prints, often with a medical
theme, are popular. Scrubs with toys, stuffed animals, etc., in the
print are big in pediatrics where they found the usual white uniform or
monotonous scrubs was causing anxiety in the young patients. In
addition to a wide variety of ready-made scrubs, there are patterns for
scrubs. One of my sons used to like scrubs for pyjamas.
Kay Lancaster
> look, well, home-made! Not at all like his; it's very frustrating. I'm
psst! Good pressing is half of sewing! Some days, it's 95% of sewing!
I suggest you might want to view Cecelia Podolak's Fearless Pressing and Mary
Roehr's Pressing to Perfection.
And do you have a clapper, a point press and an ironing board that does
not have one of those wretched metalized or teflon covers on it?
I doubt you've passed my record for first shirt yet... I managed to get the
left sleeve in inside out (and in the right armscye) four times... <g> The
next one was definitely better.
Kay
gjones2938
I used to tell my students that if they were too lazy to put up the
ironing board and press each step of their projects, they should put
away their sewing because it would end up being a homemade garment.
They tried to argue that they could get a garment assembled and do all
the pressing at the end. After a few demonstrations of not pressing
as they went, they finally got the idea. Glad you mentioned that.
Teri
Sparafucile
>
> psst! Good pressing is half of sewing! Some days, it's 95% of sewing!
> I suggest you might want to view Cecelia Podolak's Fearless Pressing and Mary
> Roehr's Pressing to Perfection.
Thanks for the tip. Coffin does point that out, but I will look for
those two books.
>
> And do you have a clapper, a point press and an ironing board that does
> not have one of those wretched metalized or teflon covers on it?
Yes, I have all three, as well as a "steam generator" iron (i.e.
boiler separate from the soleplate. My board is 52 x 19 inches, bought
from a tailor supply.
>
> I doubt you've passed my record for first shirt yet... I managed to get the
> left sleeve in inside out (and in the right armscye) four times... <g> The
> next one was definitely better.
I dunno Kay, I have a pile of discrete pieces that look REALLY
amateur, and attaching the sleeve is quite the task. As I said in
reply to another post, the fine shirt goes on hold,and I'm moving to a
camp shirt. Thanks for your comments!
--
Ciao,
Serge
“I love cats because I take pleasure in my home; and little by
little, the cats become its visible soul.”
Jean Cocteau, 1889-1963
7/10/2008 1:19:29 PM
Kay Lancaster
I learned that one fairly early on in my sewing career. Mom could sort of
sew, but astigmatism made it very difficult for her. Her best friend (and
my "second mom") was very good (she's the one who taught me bluff pockets)
and I was learning mostly by myself. And I was used to ironing -- had never
really noticed the difference between that and pressing.
Anyhow, I dragged a nicely sewn but oddly fitting wool shirt over to Dorothy
one day to try to figure out how I was making such a mess of things. The
sewing was accurate, but the shirt looked like it had been used for a dust
rag. Dorothy started pressing it and showing me the difference between
pressing and ironing (and she had this miraculous thing called a clapper!),
and all of a sudden my shirt started looking really good.
Which is when I got the pressing bug. <g>
Kay
Kay Lancaster
> Here in the States we're talking $500 to start for a bespoke shirt,
> minimum order of four, thank you! When I was a young lawyer, and much
> more foolish with my money, I ordered bespoke shirts and suits (they
> were MUCH less expensive then); thirty years later, I buy my clothing
> off the rack and have it altered!
There are also semi-custom shirt makers around... which is handy when you're
dealing with someone very tall and thin.
Have you found Pam Erny's blog? She's a custom shirtmaker, and also sells
some supplies. Some nice tutorials there.
http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/
Kay
Kay Lancaster
> On 10 Jul 2008 09:42:04 GMT, Kay Lancaster wrote:
>
>>
>> psst! Good pressing is half of sewing! Some days, it's 95% of sewing!
>> I suggest you might want to view Cecelia Podolak's Fearless Pressing and Mary
>> Roehr's Pressing to Perfection.
>
> Thanks for the tip. Coffin does point that out, but I will look for
> those two books.
>>
oops, sorry, those are both video productions. You might want to take
a look at the islandersewing.com video Shirts, etc., too... the techniques
are adapted from ready to wear sewing, and are quick and painless. I believe
Coffin credits Margaret Islander's "burrito collar" in his book, fwiw.
>> And do you have a clapper, a point press and an ironing board that does
>> not have one of those wretched metalized or teflon covers on it?
>
> Yes, I have all three, as well as a "steam generator" iron (i.e.
> boiler separate from the soleplate. My board is 52 x 19 inches, bought
> from a tailor supply.
>>
>> I doubt you've passed my record for first shirt yet... I managed to get the
>> left sleeve in inside out (and in the right armscye) four times... <g> The
>> next one was definitely better.
>
> I dunno Kay, I have a pile of discrete pieces that look REALLY
> amateur, and attaching the sleeve is quite the task.
It's not too bad if the pattern has been correctly drafted to begin with.
Some of the commercial shirt patterns, though -- well, I've met a few lawyers
I might wish those patterns on, but I doubt you're one. <g>
> As I said in
> reply to another post, the fine shirt goes on hold,and I'm moving to a
> camp shirt. Thanks for your comments!
You might also consider a wool shirt. And before you look at me like I'm
crazy, tropical weight wools are wonderful to wear, and wool is a dream
fiber to sew with. It just plain cooperates. :-) Silk twill is another
cooperative fabric that I like for shirts, but you absopositively need to
cut it on paper for accuracy.
Kay
Joy Beeson
<nobeide...@comcast.net.invalid> wrote:
> Here (on the west coast of America), practically everyone
> employed in a hospital wears "scrubs" but they are not
> necessarily sterile.
Here in the middle of America, there's a strong tendency for medical
office staff to wear scrub-style suits.
Practical idea, to my mind: the comfort of casual clothes, the
statement of a suit-and-heels.
(Personal vendetta: anyone who wears high heels on *any* occasion
needs to have her head examined.)
The "ditto suit" was casual wear, about equivalent to scrubs -- think
"polyester liesure suit" for the social impact of wearing one. And
jeans were strictly for dirty work and active play.
Today the ditto suit is called a "business suit", and advertisers
consider it remarkable when it's possible to bend over while wearing
jeans.
Notice that there's a trend to making scrub suits that actually fit,
and choosing nicer fabrics that aren't necessarily autoclavable . . .
Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
BEI Design
> On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 00:10:14 -0700, "BEI Design"
> <nobeide...@comcast.net.invalid> wrote:
>
> > Here (on the west coast of America), practically
> > everyone
> > employed in a hospital wears "scrubs" but they are not
> > necessarily sterile.
>
> Here in the middle of America, there's a strong tendency
> for medical office staff to wear scrub-style suits.
>
> Practical idea, to my mind: the comfort of casual
> clothes, the statement of a suit-and-heels.
>
> (Personal vendetta: anyone who wears high heels on *any*
> occasion needs to have her head examined.)
>
> The "ditto suit" was casual wear, about equivalent to
> scrubs -- think "polyester liesure suit" for the social
> impact of wearing one. And jeans were strictly for dirty
> work and active play.
>
> Today the ditto suit is called a "business suit", and
> advertisers consider it remarkable when it's possible to
> bend over while wearing jeans.
>
> Notice that there's a trend to making scrub suits that
> actually fit, and choosing nicer fabrics that aren't
> necessarily autoclavable . . .
The ones I make for DD are cotton/poly (but very little
poly) poplin in solid colors which she chooses. I have a
basic pattern and just make small changes to the hem, sleeve
or neckline to give them a little flair. She likes pockets,
so I put pockets in both the tops and pants. She also
prefers tops which button up the front rather than having to
struggle pulling them over the head, so we find pretty
co-coordinating buttons. These are *hers*, she pretty much
has complete say in how they look. And she gets lots of
questions from others at the hospital about where she buys
such nice-fitting and well-made scrubs.
Her answer: "BEIDesign Boutique" ;-)
Beverly
Joy Beeson
So we have already reached the stage where you'd change out of your
scrub suit, or at least put on a cover-all apron, before washing
dishes.
Emily Bengston
On 7/11/08 8:50 PM, in article 523g741mde86sgnn7...@4ax.com,
"Joy Beeson" <jbe...@invalid.net.invalid> wrote:
>
>
> So we have already reached the stage where you'd change out of your
> scrub suit, or at least put on a cover-all apron, before washing
> dishes.
>
> Joy Beeson
At my doctor's office, for several years, the nurses and assistants all wore
different, bright colored designs of scrubs until this summer.
Two other doctors who joined the practice. Suddenly, all nurses &
assistants are now wearing uniform scrubs, solid colors with a white stripe
on each sleeve. They seem to have chosen their own color to wear, since
they've had the same color on every time I've been there. It certainly
changes the scenery; I think they look more professional, although just as
comfortable as the scrubs they used to wear.
Emily
BEI Design
> So we have already reached the stage where you'd change
> out of your scrub suit, or at least put on a cover-all
> apron, before washing dishes.
I make her co-ordinating aprons, too. ;-) And she actually
uses them. I have aprons, but I usually forget to put them
on, resulting in T-shirts with bacon splatter, spaghetti
sauce spots, etc.
Beverly
Emily Bengston
On 7/12/08 10:03 PM, in article
_dKdnS83wcfWu-XV...@comcast.com, "BEI Design"
<nobeide...@comcast.net.invalid> wrote:
I love aprons and have made many over the years, both for me and others.
The one I never use, though, I didn't make.
When my youngest DD's children were small, she bought aprons at Michael's
and paints for each of them to paint something on them for the grandmothers
and their elderly great aunts.
The daughter, who was almost 7, painted a red heart and her initials
underneath and she was done.
The older son, age 4, painted a street with a house with trees, & a van in
the driveway. He asked for some yellow paint to paint the stripes in the
center of the street because he said, "It's important to stay on the right
side of a street."
The younger one was too young to use paints, so his Mom helped him put his
handprints and footprints on it.
I have a hook in the kitchen to hang it when they visit. We have a great
time discussing "THE" apron, and I make photos of them next to it.
They're now 22, 19 & 17; it's funny to see how they react to it every year.
Emily
Kate XXXXXX
tomato, turmeric, or both...
BEI Design
>> "BEI Design" wrote:
<snip>
> I have a hook in the kitchen to hang it when they visit.
> We have a great time discussing "THE" apron, and I make
> photos of them next to it.
> They're now 22, 19 & 17; it's funny to see how they react
> to it every year. Emily
That's a great story! I have treasures made for me by my
DGC, and like you they never get "used" but are kept and
enjoyed.
Beverly
Kathleen
One summer my sister sent her two boys up from Phoenix for a visit and I
helped them and my own two make t-shirts for Gram and Grandpa. I
painted the soles of their feet with acrylic paint and had them walk on
the shirts, waited til they dried then did the reverse side. Later I
added some text. Grandpa's said, "My grandkids walk all over me",
Gram's said "I *AM* in charge here!"
Emily Bengston
On 7/12/08 10:54 PM, in article E%eek.2273$Jy1...@newsfe05.lga, "Kathleen"
<khhfmde...@charter.net> wrote:
What a great idea for birthday/Christmas or whatever the occasion.
Emily
Dee in Oz
think that she was raised in India where it was common to eat curries daily,
therefore there were lots of curry marks on the white tablecloths. A sit in
the sun would make these stains disappear.
I have tried it and it does work even after the fabric has been through the
wash :-(.
Dee in Oz
"Kate XXXXXX" <> wrote in message