I line most of my garments.
When hemming the lining on skirts and dresses, how much
shorter should the lining be compared to the garment fabric?
This has become an issue when I line one of my favourite
waistbandless skirt patterns. I'm always tugging the cover
fabric down on my above-the-knee skirts. Part of this has
been due to fit (pattern has been adjusted for the next
skirt) , but part is just due (I think) to the lining being
very slippery and possibly, not short enough.
(this ties into my question on lining fabrics)
Suggestions anyone?
Shirley
Lead me not to temptation; I can find the way myself.
-Rita Mae Brown
Me again! Emerald gave a good suggestion about the 2" shorter length.
But...that only works if you are going to hem your lining with a 2" hem.
Measure your lining 1" shorter than the finished length of your skirt.
By the time you put a narrow hem in the lining it will be approx. 2"
shorter than your finished skirt.
Remember, when you line something you are taking up room that needs to
be allowed for when adjusting your pattern. Put on a suit jacket
without a blouse. Then try the same suit jacket with a blouse. It will
fit tighter. The same goes for a skirt.
Good luck, Sonia
This worked well a lot of times, but I had a problem with a skirt that crept
up and allowed the lining to show. I'm not sure if it was the fabric or
maybe the (not my usual) lining I used which might have built up static
electricity. Anyway, if you do your linings this way, it's very simple to
shorten them when necessary. Just run them through the serger again. It
probably would be long enough if the lining just lapped the upper edge of
your garment hem.
Iris
Shirley Hicks wrote in message <36e14e44....@news1.sympatico.ca>...
>Funny this question should appear today! I just finished a lined skirt and
>I'm wondering if I made the lining too long. I use a serger to do my
>linings ala the Nancy Zieman method, which is very simple. I usually cut
>the lining about 1/2 inch shorter than the hem of the skirt and finish the
>bottom of the lining by overcasting the bottom edge with a serger.
Yes, that is the method I've been using.
>This worked well a lot of times, but I had a problem with a skirt that crept
>up and allowed the lining to show. I'm not sure if it was the fabric or
>maybe the (not my usual) lining I used which might have built up static
>electricity. Anyway, if you do your linings this way, it's very simple to
>shorten them when necessary. Just run them through the serger again. It
>probably would be long enough if the lining just lapped the upper edge of
>your garment hem.
I'm glad you posted. So I'm not the only one...<g>
From yours and the others responses, it sounds like I need
to shorten my linings a tad.
>Shirley
>
>Me again! Emerald gave a good suggestion about the 2" shorter length.
>But...that only works if you are going to hem your lining with a 2" hem.
>Measure your lining 1" shorter than the finished length of your skirt.
>By the time you put a narrow hem in the lining it will be approx. 2"
>shorter than your finished skirt.
Correct me if I'm wrong,but is the idea that the lining
should just come about 1/2 inch or so past the top of the
skirt hem?
>Remember, when you line something you are taking up room that needs to
>be allowed for when adjusting your pattern. Put on a suit jacket
>without a blouse. Then try the same suit jacket with a blouse. It will
>fit tighter. The same goes for a skirt.
This has been allowed for, as I have a duct tape dummy.
I'm also going to investigate hem weights.
For most of my lined skirts, I sew the hem just like a lined vest. This works
great for slit in the back of the skirt or small slits in the side seam hem on
vest too!
Cut the lining the same length as the skirt
Then with rights sides together.. sew around the hem (fashion fabric and lining
at the same time)
Turn rightside out and do the waist.
If you would like a zipper or no waist band...
just do the hem and the waist application from a hole left in the side seam...
then stitch up the hole!!
The catch is the manual is long gone, and so are her memories of how it works.
As the subject suggests, it's a Simplicity EasyLock 840DSP. The threading
instructions are inside the cover, and I'm pretty sure I know how the
differential feed works, but there are knobs on the side and top whose
functions are beyond me. I also have no idea how the tension settings alter
the stitching (the label inside says to refer to page 11 of the manual).
I went to the Simplicity website, but they appear to have left the machine
industry since this was built. Anyone know where I could get a manual for
this or a similar model?
I promised my wife I'd help with the Christmas Pagent costumes this year and
it would be nice if I could get it working before then (if I can't do it in 9
months I might as well return it).
Thank you.
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