Tracing pattern - before or after cutting it out?
Dave
made a free-form cover for my sewing machine. It won't win any prizes,
but it does the job ;-) I've got the basics of my machine down, so I've
decided to try a pattern, and bought a Kwik-sew pattern for a bathrobe.
It's not the "learning to sew" pattern because the friend I'm making it
for wanted a longer robe, so I bought their other bathrobe pattern. Hope
it's not a quantum leap in difficulty from the learning to sew one...
I'd like to trace the pattern so I can re-use it with a different size
later if I want. My question is, should I cut out the pattern outside of
the largest size & then trace it, or should I leave it completely uncut &
trace it? My house is not large, and the only place I will be able to
trace the uncut pattern is on the kitchen floor. Roughly cutting out the
pieces first would allow me to do trace them on my dining room table,
making it a bit easier.
I want to do what's best. Any suggestions on which method I should use?
Also, my friend would like the bathrobe in fleece. Is this a fairly easy
material to work with, or would a light flannel be easier?
Thanks very much,
David
Jean Péloquin
considering that the medium might reach out the of large in some places and
so on). then just fold the extra bits over and use the pattern like that.
Just like you I started by retracing my patterns ( before cutting) and I
decided that it is a wasted of time.
Jean
PS: A bathrobe doesn't sound like that difficult a first pattern to me, I
started with shirt.
"Dave" <nopubl...@here.com> a écrit dans le message de
news:Xns95105CD7A5A...@140.99.99.130...
dnmgiordano
size in case I need it one day, especially with children, then when I lay it
out on my fabric I fold back as much as possible and for curves and areas I
couldn't fold, I just slip my scissors under the paper and cut very
carefully. I find tracing takes me forever.
I also have a small house, and a small table to fit, so if the whole thing
is too big for the table I lay it on the floor then pin it together and cut
manageable sections to finish cutting on the table. I hate cutting on the
floor since the first time I was pregnant having to do it.
I am probably cheating though in regards to proper methods.
Also I never used a learn to sew pattern, I was determined to make fancy
flowergirl dresses but had learned some things about patterns in highschool
home ec.
I love working with fleece! I made a bathrobe for my DD the oldest one, and
lots of touqes, scarves and mittens, buntingbags, carseat covers forsale. I
found it easier than flannel (pants, bibs, caps, quilt) because unless I
overlocked the flannel it fell apart (the quilt), but with fleece I only had
to finish the edges for appearance.
Hope it helps
Michelle G
pas
trace off the size I need. This way it's easy to fold up and put back into
the envelope. I hang the traced off versions on pattern hooks in the
closet.
Penny S
Phaedrine
"Jean Péloquin" <pelo...@dr.cgocable.ca> wrote:
> How about cutting the pattern out to the outer most line of all pcs
That often does not work because pattern lines often cross. For
instance, if you cut out to the largest size on an armhole, you will
likely cut off the cutting lines needed for a smaller armhole.
Phaedrine
Dave <nopubl...@here.com> wrote:
Cut out all the pattern pieces first roughly cutting outside ALL of the
cutting lines and leaving all the sizes intact. Then trace the size you
need onto canary yellow. You can get that from Art Mart or an art
supply store--- it's available in 100 foot rolls in 12, 18, 24, 30 and
36" widths. It is also available in white. It is much sturdier than
pattern paper, very translucent, and you can use fat indelible markers
without it going through the paper. The idea in tracing patterns is to
use a straight-edge for straight lines and freehand the rest. The
faster you work, with a little practice, the more accurate your lines
will be. Use weights or drafting tape to hold the papers down. Good
luck.
Jean Péloquin
"Phaedrine" <Phaedrine_...@spamenot.yahoo.com> a écrit dans le
message de
news:Phaedrine_Stonebridge...@news.giganews.com...
I thought it was clear that I indicated cutting the outer most lines ie if
the armhole for the small extends outise the sides for the large, you move
on from the large-side to the small-arm to the medium shoulder etc until you
have been all the way around.
Jean P.
Phaedrine
"Jean Péloquin" <pelo...@dr.cgocable.ca> wrote:
> "Phaedrine" <Phaedrine_...@spamenot.yahoo.com> a écrit dans le
> message de
> news:Phaedrine_Stonebridge...@news.giganews.com...
> > In article <LXYBc.39042$ri2....@charlie.risq.qc.ca>,
> > "Jean Péloquin" <pelo...@dr.cgocable.ca> wrote:
> >
> > > How about cutting the pattern out to the outer most line of all pcs
> >
> > That often does not work because pattern lines often cross. For
> > instance, if you cut out to the largest size on an armhole, you will
> > likely cut off the cutting lines needed for a smaller armhole.
>
> I thought it was clear that I indicated cutting the outer most lines ie if
> the armhole for the small extends outise the sides for the large, you move
> on from the large-side to the small-arm to the medium shoulder etc until you
> have been all the way around.
You lost me. Nonetheless, it is best to just trace the pattern size you
want and leave the original intact.
NWRedbird
I do the same. Not only is it easier to put in an envelope (I store mine in
large manila envelopes), but nothing gets lost. I went back to an older pattern
once or twice and found bits, such as facings, pockets, etc., that had gotten
lost, torn, or misfiled/misplaced. Doesn't seem to happen with full sheets. As
to working on the table, I do that by simply letting the excess hang off the
edge of the table or folding out of the way while tracing a piece. Especially
with Kwik-Sew, which comes on fairly heavy paper and not tissue, this works
fine. When I started sewing, I never traced off, now I always do. The added
time seems to be worth it in the long run, but then speed is not number one for
me (I'm not in the sewing as a biz).
Dan
NWRedbird
Just thought of something else, though it is not likely to be very important for a
robe. I sew a lot for my kids, who seem to change sizes a lot, and the younger
follows the older. I have to modify most patterns in some way. Older DD is very
long limbed and just a bit narrow in the chest. This means lengthing and narrowing,
frequently. Younger DD seems to be more short-limbed, but long torso-ed. By
tracing off I get a modified version of the pattern (for size adjustments) while
maintaining the original for the next time I make it. I found the same is true for
things I sew for the wife. She's changed sizes as she went up after birth of 2nd DD
and is now moving down again. The weight distribution has changed too. Some
patterns that I cut out and modified directly for her before I learned my tracing
lessons are relatively useless now since I'd have to "unmodify" them before making
new adjustments, assuming the correct size was still available on the tissue...I
just write all over the traced copies indicating what I've done so I know when to
re-use as is.
Dan
Kay Lancaster
> It's not the "learning to sew" pattern because the friend I'm making it
> for wanted a longer robe, so I bought their other bathrobe pattern. Hope
> it's not a quantum leap in difficulty from the learning to sew one...
Unless you're going for the slinky 1930's peignoir look, you're probably
safe. <g> (And there, it's usually the fabric that's the sticky part!)
> the largest size & then trace it, or should I leave it completely uncut &
> trace it? My house is not large, and the only place I will be able to
> trace the uncut pattern is on the kitchen floor. Roughly cutting out the
> pieces first would allow me to do trace them on my dining room table,
> making it a bit easier.
I suspect you'd have a whole lot easier time if you borrow a bit of
space someplace. Public libraries often have public conference rooms
that you can sign up for... or churches, or senior centers... sometimes
even fabric stores will let you use a spare cutting table or a classroom
for this purpose.
Another large space you might have for tracing: Got sliding glass doors
someplace? Tape the pattern up to the door, tape the tracing material
on top of it, and you've got an instant light box!
Sometimes I cheat on tracing things like kimono-style robes. If, for
instance, there's a band that needs to be cut on grain, and it's just
a rectangle, I measure the pattern piece and transfer the measurements
directly to the fabric. Or for a robe section that has perfectly straight
seamlines, I may trace the neckline, shoulder, armscye, and start into
the straight line portion, and just note something like "straight for 37.5
more inches!" -- which I measure when I've got the piece I've traced
pinned to my fabric.
FWIW.
Kay
Liz Cork
"Dave" <nopubl...@here.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95105CD7A5A...@140.99.99.130...
snip>
My house is not large, and the only place I will be able to
> trace the uncut pattern is on the kitchen floor. Roughly cutting out the
> pieces first would allow me to do trace them on my dining room table,
> making it a bit easier.
>
> I want to do what's best. Any suggestions on which method I should use?
> Also, my friend would like the bathrobe in fleece. Is this a fairly easy
> material to work with, or would a light flannel be easier?
>
> Thanks very much,
>
> David
I have a board that I lay on top of the (king size) bed for tracing and
cutting out on, its not the ideal height, but it slides away when not in
use. maybe you could extend your table by using a cutting board? I very
rarely cut any patterns, 99 % of the time I trace them, you never know when
you will be needing those larger sizes (puts away chocolate biscuits
guiltily ;-)
Liz
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.704 / Virus Database: 460 - Release Date: 12/06/2004
Fabriholic
news:Xns95105CD7A5A...@140.99.99.130...
> I'd like to trace the pattern so I can re-use it with a different size
> later if I want. My question is, should I cut out the pattern outside of
> the largest size & then trace it, or should I leave it completely uncut &
> trace it? My house is not large, and the only place I will be able to
> trace the uncut pattern is on the kitchen floor. Roughly cutting out the
> pieces first would allow me to do trace them on my dining room table,
> making it a bit easier.
I cut around each piece. Tape them to the sliding patio door. I trace each
size on non-woven interfacing. When finished I fold all pieces (original
and traced) and place in gallon size zip bags with the pattern envelope and
instructions. Works for me.
Trish
Dave
that I will try this first project leaving the pattern whole, and just
tracing the size I need. If I'm having a hard time doing that, I will cut
out the pattern just outside the largest size. I think I will be able to
find a spot to trace the pattern without cutting it out though. I'm going
to get some paper to trace with today, and possibly start tonight. I have a
very busy month coming up, so I expect this project to take a while. But I
know myself, and if I do a bit here & a bit there, I'll do a much better
job than trying to tackle the whole thing in a weekend.
Thanks again to all for your suggestions, I really appreciate it!
David
Kate Dicey
I agree. What I do (and have just done 12 of!) is trace off the closest
size, and then add the width and length alterations. 15 bridesmaids:
not a single one is pattern sized, and no two are alike, so every
blessed one needs her own personal copy of the pattern! And it's as
easy to trace them off as is is to just cut all those blessed things in
nasty pattern tissue! I made the copies in Dot & Cross...
3 more girls to do, and the bride, who isn't pattern sized either... At
least I managed to cut out 3 bridesmaid tops this evening.
--
Kate XXXXXX
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
Maine-iac Rose
finally got to the point, that is was easier to buy more than one pattern,
(try to get them when they are on sale). I would cut out one size and mark
it on the outside of the envelope, and if needed another size I had it filed
away with other patterns.
Fleece is well to work with a serger if you have one, but will also work on
a regular sewing machine. I myself like my bathrobe in terry cloth, they
are warm, and if you need it after getting out of the shower or bath, it
helps dry you off also. Flannel is also a good choice, I had one of those
some time ago.
Maine-iac Rose
@->--
remove the thorns and add a hyphen between the 2 words to email me.
"Dave" <nopubl...@here.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95105CD7A5A...@140.99.99.130...
Phaedrine
Kate Dicey <ka...@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
> > You lost me. Nonetheless, it is best to just trace the pattern size you
> > want and leave the original intact.
>
> I agree. What I do (and have just done 12 of!) is trace off the closest
> size, and then add the width and length alterations. 15 bridesmaids:
> not a single one is pattern sized, and no two are alike, so every
> blessed one needs her own personal copy of the pattern! And it's as
> easy to trace them off as is is to just cut all those blessed things in
> nasty pattern tissue! I made the copies in Dot & Cross...
>
> 3 more girls to do, and the bride, who isn't pattern sized either... At
> least I managed to cut out 3 bridesmaid tops this evening.
Wow... way cool.
CindyP
rolls of Reynolds freezer paper. And like Trish, I tape the original to a
sliding glass door, or sometimes I can see it fine on the kitchen table.
Cindy in WV
Kate Dicey
Freezer paper is fine for small pattern pieces, but way too pricey for
multiple copes, and way too small for 30" long circular skirts!
Just made the patterns for the bridesmaid skirts. I wouldn't bother
with a pattern if I didn't need to cut 6 lots of fabric and 6 lots of
lining in the one size, 5 in another size, 4 in a third, plus one I'm
not sure of the size for just yet! With a quarter circle pattern, I can
fold the fabric and stack several lots up to cut out at once.
Mike Behrent
--
it's easier to run away with your kilt up than with your pants down.
Mike in Wisconsin
"CindyP" <cdpN...@NOSPAMfrontiernet.net> wrote in message
news:YBACc.55$v24...@news02.roc.ny...
Karen Maslowski
> Freezer paper is fine for small pattern pieces, but way too pricey for
> multiple copes, and way too small for 30" long circular skirts!
>
sewing friends in other countries have a very hard time even finding
it, and that it's quite pricey outside the US--$20 a roll, vs. about
$3 here.
Karen Maslowski
Phaedrine
"Mike Behrent" <beh...@new.rr.com> wrote:
> For tracing I get tracing paper by the roll at a drafting supply company.
Yes, canary yellow.... also available at art supply stores. Art Mart
has it.
Emily
examing tables. It is 18inches wide, the same width of freezer paper, but
easier to handle IMHO. It's easy to tape pieces together for extra width.
Why not ask yours?
Emily
Poohma
"Emily" <cyp...@att.net> wrote in message
news:GCHCc.129911$Gx4....@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
You can also go to the local newspaper and get roll ends for $1-3 depending
on the width.
--
The Vegas Beth P
(STILL missing Georgia)
Poohma
The new "Threads" has an article about multi-size patterns that may also
give you some clarity about what to do. Personally, I only use multies for
my DD and I trace from the sheet whenever possible because she refuses to
stop getting taller. Besides, if I keep the patterns nice, when she has
outgrown the largest size (or the style) I can resell the things online.
Phaedrine
"Poohma" <beth...@hotmail.com> wrote:
But why use such opaque paper when tracing paper is so cheap and readily
available?
Poohma
"Phaedrine" <Phaedrine_...@spamenot.yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Phaedrine_Stonebridge...@news.giganews.com...
Believe it or not, when you are dealing with the plain paper and using the
glass door method of tracing off, there is no problem with the opaqueness.
The paper is sturdier and still cheaper than tracing paper. Besides, I can
get rolls that are 5 feet wide which comes in handy for bigger projects.
Phaedrine
"Poohma" <beth...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> "Phaedrine" <Phaedrine_...@spamenot.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:Phaedrine_Stonebridge...@news.giganews.com...
> > In article <Rr8Dc.19346$Lh.14143@okepread01>,
> > "Poohma" <beth...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > You can also go to the local newspaper and get roll ends for $1-3
> > > depending on the width.
> > But why use such opaque paper when tracing paper is so cheap and readily
> > available?
>
> Believe it or not, when you are dealing with the plain paper and using the
> glass door method of tracing off, there is no problem with the opaqueness.
Honestly, based on years of professional experience, I can tell you that
it is vastly easier and light years faster to do your drafting on a flat
or angled surface. I use a drafting table but a kitchen table works
just fine. For tracing most patterns, I don't even have to use tape.
Instread you smooth the sheets down and use weights for such easy
tracing tasks.
> The paper is sturdier and still cheaper than tracing paper.
Have you ever used canary yellow tracing paper? From what you say
here, I suspect you are confusing it with something else--- maybe
expensive vellum or parchment. Canary yellow is the standard in the
trades. It is cheap, quite sturdy and comes in a variety of widths in
50 YARD rolls. Unlike newsprint and pattern tissue, it will not allow
your ink to bleed thru to the other side so you can use indelible pens.
And it is quite translucent and thin. You can fold your patterns up and
put them into the original envelope instead of having all that bulk.
Ask any fashion designer, illustrator, graphic artist, architect or
drafter what they use for tracing sketches and they will all tell you
canary yellow. There are many uses for newsprint. Tracing patterns
with any facility at all is not one of them.
For those interested, here is a price list from MisterArt discount art
supplies though there are many other suppliers (Art Mart is rennovating
right now):
<http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/671/PRO-ART-Tracing-Pap
er-Rolls.htm>
12 in. x 20 yd. roll canary $2.51
12 in. x 50 yd. roll canary $4.88
18 in. x 50 yd. roll canary $6.96
24 in. x 50 yd. roll canary $8.99
36 in. x 50 yd. roll canary $13.13
I also use white but it costs a little more.
> Besides, I can
> get rolls that are 5 feet wide which comes in handy for bigger projects.
.
Jean Péloquin
Six months ago when I recommended using canary paper in this group. no one
had ever heard of it or knew where to find it.
Jean P.
Poohma
for years myself and have also used the various types of tracing/pattern
papers. I prefer the newsprint for patterns that I will use over and over
again and use the regular tracing paper for the patterns I will only use a
few times (or for a multisize pattern that will be used for more than one
person).
I don't know why it is such a big deal to you what I use to trace off
patterns. If my preference works for me, that is all that should matter. I
know that fashion designers, architechs and "the trade" use the canary, but
I don't play there anymore. I am a sewist that sometimes works in costuming
and sews on commission (not as much as ten years ago as my arthritis is
getting to me). Those get the detailing they deserve. At home, I sew mostly
for my DD and myself. And, yes, using a newsprint pattern works just fine.
Since I am always making some kind of change to the designs, I NEVER put my
copies back into the original envelope-only the original pieces. That
envelope and my drafted pieces go into a gallon zip-lock bag, then into a
filing cabinet,
I have seen oriental sewists take a few measurements and draw a pattern on a
newspaper. They turn out some of the most beautiful and well-fitting
clothing I have ever seen. So it is not the material-it is the skill behind
it.
BEIDesign
Phaedrine wrote:
>
> I also use white but it costs a little more.
Not at the moment:
36 in. x 50 yd. roll white Item # 2820180 $13.13
Thanks, I do believe I'll order some.
--
Beverly
---to reply, delete no spam and .invalid---
Kate Dicey
I've been known to use newspaper when desperate, but not often as the
print can rub off on the fabric. NOT what is needed for bridal stuff!
I also find it very hard to trace through.
Poohma
>>gently snipped<<
>
> I've been known to use newspaper when desperate, but not often as the
> print can rub off on the fabric. NOT what is needed for bridal stuff!
> I also find it very hard to trace through.
>
> --
> Kate XXXXXX
> Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
> http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
> Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
With the end rolls, no ink. When I am tracing, I either use the big window
method or put white paper underneath what I am tracing. Usually, I am
tracing off something I drafted from my sewing software, so either way
works. But we all have our personal preferences. Another discussion group I
belong to swears by Carriff soil protector sheeting for drafting permanent
patterns.
Kate Dicey
I have some delicious 'pattern paper' sent from the USA by a friend:
it's like fine stiff sew-in Vilene, and is designed for just this
process. Translucent enough to trace through, and as permanent as you
like! I'm saving it for a Very Posh Project! ;) Actually, as it's
tough enough to try on, I think I'll trace my Elizabethan court dress
pattern onto it, as I want to make two versions; a serviceable
prosperous merchant's wife gown in some dark red stuff I have, and the
full court outfit in the lilac silk and cotton mix satin. Oh, some
day... When I get to my goal weight, I think!
For customer stuff and trials I use 'dot&cross' - the stuff costumers
and fashion students use by the mile for pattern drafting. It's like
newsprint, comes in several widths, and I bought a 200m roll for about
£22 a few years back. It is slightly glazed on one side, and has a grid
of dots and crosses on it at 1" intervals, which makes sizing up from
diagram patterns fairly easy. It's also fairly translucent on a white
background.
I find that most pattern envelopes are generous enough to put the
original tissue pattern plus a couple of traced off sizes back in. I
then pop them in a neat fitting ziplock bag and store them by type or
date in plastic stacking boxes.
Type or date sounds confusing, but it's like this...
1 box of costume patterns (half full)
1 box of kid's and maternity patterns (full - needs weeding!)
1 box of men's and outdoors patterns (Full - needs sorting)
1 box of Large Format Vogue patterns, sorted by date (Stuffed!)
1 box of wedding patterns, sorted by date (full!)
1 box of Burda pattern magazines (full!)
1 box of 'came free with magazines' patterns, sorted by type (Stuffed to
bursting!)
1 box 1950-60's patterns, sorted by date (Impossible to cram another one
in!)
1 box 1970's patterns, sorted by date (Stuffed!)
1 box of general current ladies patterns, sorted by type (Crammed to
bursting and in need of another sort out - only WHERE do I put the
overflow?)
several shoe and other boxes of as yet unsorted patterns... (Need more
stacking crates!)
a shoe box of 'in use now-ish!' patterns in the sewing room... (oops!)
Phaedrine
"Poohma" <beth...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I don't know why it is such a big deal to you what I use to trace off
> patterns.
Whoa! Chill out Beth. No need to jump to such negative (and incorrect)
conclusions. I said no such thing and, frankly, I don't care how or
what you use to trace off your patterns.
But your post gave erroneous information that I chose to correct for the
sake of others. Canary yellow tracing paper is reasonably priced and
durable contrary to your assertions. It also has many advantages and is
widely used in the arts & trades. I did not want other people to have
a mistaken impression as the result of your post. Please think before
you post.
Phaedrine
"Jean Péloquin" <pelo...@dr.cgocable.ca> wrote:
Don't take offense. I've mentioned canary yellow many times to this
group over the years. People come and go and change their screen names.
Poohma
"Phaedrine" <Phaedrine_...@spamenot.yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Phaedrine_Stonebridge...@news.giganews.com...
Excuse me?
I don't think that people would have gotten a mistaken impression based on
what I consider inappropriate for my use. Considering that every time I
posted my reasons for using a particular paper, you immediately made
comments on how you couldn't understand why anyone would use that paper and
push the canary again. I think that we all are now painfully aware that
canary is used in trade, but so is newsprint and plain white tracing paper
like I get on rolls from Jo-Ann's (which I use for certain projects). Not
all of us are working at the sewing biz full-time, so we all have our own
choices as to materials. If I were working full-time at sewing and drafting
patterns all the time, then I would likely use it. But it is not what I
prefer at the moment and your constant pushing *almost* makes me think you
own stock in the company LOL.
Anyway, it does seem that you made a very big deal when I posted my
preference. I noticed that another person posted the newsprint
recommendation and not a peep. I also missed your input when someone else
suggested grocery bags taped together. Whatever...
Phaedrine
"Poohma" <beth...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> "Phaedrine" <Phaedrine_...@spamenot.yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:Phaedrine_Stonebridge...@news.giganews.com...
> > In article <maFDc.22010$Lh.17069@okepread01>,
> > "Poohma" <beth...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I don't know why it is such a big deal to you what I use to trace off
> > > patterns.
> >
> > Whoa! Chill out Beth. No need to jump to such negative (and incorrect)
> > conclusions. I said no such thing and, frankly, I don't care how or
> > what you use to trace off your patterns.
> >
> > But your post gave erroneous information that I chose to correct for the
> > sake of others. Canary yellow tracing paper is reasonably priced and
> > durable contrary to your assertions. It also has many advantages and is
> > widely used in the arts & trades. I did not want other people to have
> > a mistaken impression as the result of your post. Please think before
> > you post.
<snip relentless paranoid drivel>
Get help, Beth.
Poohma
Why should I get help for having a preference you don't like? Someone is
being anal here and it is not me. As I said before, we all have our personal
choices as far as materials. When you feel the need to first attack my
choices and then insinuate I am trying to give out incorrect information
because my sense of thrift rebels at buying a $12 roll of paper when a $1
roll works for my purposes, I wonder who needs the help.
Not everyone on this group is currently in business. Some of us are sewing
for the joy of it and nothing takes the joy out faster than a personal
attack on someone whose methodology is different than yours. It seems to be
something you do almost constantly. But, hey! I am going to use my newsprint
and my tracing paper when and how I see fit.
I may even buy a roll of Carriff paper and try it as it comes highly
recommended by the industry professionals I know:
http://www.carriff.com/products/products.html
https://secure.wnusa.net/carriff/cgi-local/store/onlinestore.html
Enjoy!
Phaedrine
"Poohma" <beth...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Why should I get help for having a preference you don't like? Someone is
> being anal here and it is not me.
FCOL you just can't stop yourself. I said I don't care what you use (!)
but yet you keep rattling on and on like a broken record. Feel free to
rattle on some more but I won't be reading. And like I said, get help.
You're one paranoid sick pup.
Pogonip
>
> I may even buy a roll of Carriff paper and try it as it comes highly
> recommended by the industry professionals I know:
>
> http://www.carriff.com/products/products.html
>
> https://secure.wnusa.net/carriff/cgi-local/store/onlinestore.html
>
> Enjoy!
Very cool, Beth. It comes in up to 72" wide, which could
be very useful. Kind of pricey, but huge quantity. They
also sell an embroidery fabric in varying weights, but I
couldn't find a page describing it or showing it. Good
resource to have.
--
Joanne @ stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us
http://bernardschopen.tripod.com/
Life is about the journey, not about the destination.