making a pattern bigger???
betsey
i'm about to embark on making my first horse show jacket...suitability
5000-its a short western style jacket.
here is my problem...the pattern itself goes up to a bust size of 46.
I come in at a 49. how do i begin to approach sizing up the pattern?
or, am i better off looking for a pattern that goes up to size
CHUNK??
thank you in advance...
betsey
Olwyn.Mary
Some commercial patterns are true to size, most of them run large.
First, decide how much ease you need in your jacket, then get out the
pieces, iron them smooth, and find out EXACTLY how big they are.
Remember to measure from stitching line to stitching line, not including
the seam allowances. You may find out that this pattern will fit you,
or you may need to do a little "slash and spread" work.
Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
betsey
thank you so much Olwyn Mary....I will do just that. If i have to
"slash and spread'....where would be the appropriate places to do
that??
Betsey
Olwyn.Mary
If i have to
> "slash and spread'....where would be the appropriate places to do
> that??
>
> Betsey
It depends where you need the extra room. There are various books, and
no doubt instructions on line, but why don't you measure everything
first, then find out exactly where room is needed? After you have done
that, there are many experts on here who can tell you far better than I
can how to go about it.
Kay Lancaster
>
> here is my problem...the pattern itself goes up to a bust size of 46.
> I come in at a 49. how do i begin to approach sizing up the pattern?
> or, am i better off looking for a pattern that goes up to size
That's called grading, and it can be done -- my concern is that it's already
been graded up from the middle of the size range, and once you get to the ends
of the range you start running into distortions of the pattern by grading.
The patternmakers I know tend to prefer to only grade a pattern up or down
by a couple of sizes -- so they'll make the pattern in size C, then have
it graded down to size A and B and up to D and E. Putting it to an
F increases the chances that you'll get the shoulder seams off the shoulder
(causing problems with arm mobility), neckline too big, etc, so they'll make a
new pattern at size H and grade it down to F and G and up to I and J.
That's actually a fairly simple looking pattern, judging by what I saw on the
patternreview site. If you want to try your hand at grading, and especially
if you need a bigger cup size than a B, it might work ok -- princess seams are
the easiest to adjust for cup size (though I prefer to adjust a shoulder
princess rather than a side princess). On the other hand, if you've got
a jacket pattern that fits ok, or can spot one that would have you in the
middle of the range, it might be easier to use that.
Me, because I'm congenitally lazy, I'd probably just drape you and make a
custom pattern and skip all the fussing with a commercial pattern.
As for commercial patterns that might work, consider restyling Butterick
5336 (which has the advantage of extra room in the back sleeve cap,
similar to that provided for jockey silks), or Jalie 2212.
Sharon Hays
I agree completely. Also, when I need to go up a good ways, I start with a
muslin. I don't try to go right to my good fabric.
I would measure the pattern, then if it's anywhere close (and it could be) I
would make it up just as is, no increasing anything in the cheap fabric.
That's absolutely the Best way to see where you need to adjust. It takes
time but it's worth it.
Then if you need help figuring out where to alter, post pics of the jacket
on you. We can all jump in and do a virtual fitting for you. ;)
Sharon
--
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It's a waste of time and just annoys the
pig.
BEI Design
> Olwyn.Mary wrote:
> > Some commercial patterns are true to size, most of them
> > run large.
> > First, decide how much ease you need in your jacket,
> > then get out the pieces, iron them smooth, and find out
> > EXACTLY how big they are.
> > Remember to measure from stitching line to stitching
> > line, not including the seam allowances. You may find
> > out that this pattern will fit you,
> > or you may need to do a little "slash and spread" work.
> >
> > Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
>
>
> I agree completely. Also, when I need to go up a good
> ways, I start with a muslin. I don't try to go right to
> my good fabric.
>
> I would measure the pattern, then if it's anywhere close
> (and it could be)
Yes, but allow for some ease! Vogue has a chart with
suggested amount of ease for different kinds of garments.
http://www.voguepatterns.com/indextec.htm
click "Ease Chart". Something close to those additional
inches should be added to the "body measurements" in order
to establish whether the pattern comes close 'as is'.
> I would make it up just as is, no
> increasing anything in the cheap fabric. That's
> absolutely the Best way to see where you need to adjust.
> It takes time but it's worth it.
Agreed. And then once a good altered pattern is created,
you can make additional garments from it with much fuss.
> Then if you need help figuring out where to alter, post
> pics of the jacket on you. We can all jump in and do a
> virtual fitting for you. ;)
Did OP ever list a pattern number, I must have missed it.
Beverly
betsey
wrote:
> Sharon Hays wrote:
> > Olwyn.Mary wrote:
> > > Some commercial patterns are true to size, most of them
> > > run large.
> > > First, decide how much ease you need in your jacket,
> > > then get out the pieces, iron them smooth, and find out
> > > EXACTLY how big they are.
> > > Remember to measure from stitching line to stitching
> > > line, not including the seam allowances. You may find
> > > out that this pattern will fit you,
> > > or you may need to do a little "slash and spread" work.
>
> > > Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
>
> > I agree completely. Also, when I need to go up a good
> > ways, I start with a muslin. I don't try to go right to
> > my good fabric.
>
> > I would measure the pattern, then if it's anywhere close
> > (and it could be)
>
> Yes, but allow for some ease! Vogue has a chart with
> click "Ease Chart". Something close to those additional
> inches should be added to the "body measurements" in order
> to establish whether the pattern comes close 'as is'.
>
> > I would make it up just as is, no
> > increasing anything in the cheap fabric. That's
> > absolutely the Best way to see where you need to adjust.
> > It takes time but it's worth it.
>
> Agreed. And then once a good altered pattern is created,
> you can make additional garments from it with much fuss.
>
> > Then if you need help figuring out where to alter, post
> > pics of the jacket on you. We can all jump in and do a
> > virtual fitting for you. ;)
>
> Did OP ever list a pattern number, I must have missed it.
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
thank you everybody for your help! i'm going to attempt it....(and
goodness knows I have enough fabric laying around...)
Its suitability 5000....
betsey
BEI Design
>
> thank you everybody for your help! i'm going to attempt
> it....(and
> goodness knows I have enough fabric laying around...)
>
> Its suitability 5000....
This one?
http://www.suitability.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5000
That has lots of seams, it should be well adaptable for
sizing up. One thing to keep in mind, you may have to add
girth to the upper arms (biceps), not just to the upper body
parts. That seems to be one place I always have to add a
bit.
Beverly
betsey
wrote:
> betsey wrote:
>
> > thank you everybody for your help! �i'm going to attempt
> > it....(and
> > goodness knows I have enough fabric laying around...)
>
> > Its suitability 5000....
>
>
> That has lots of seams, it should be well adaptable for
> sizing up. One thing to keep in mind, you may have to add
> girth to the upper arms (biceps), not just to the upper body
> parts. �That seems to be one place I always have to add a
> bit.
>
> Beverly
Hi Beverly--
that is what I am thinking too....but if i add to the biceps--will
that affect how it attaches to the body of the jacket? and..when you
say with it having many seams, so it should be adaptable for sizing
up....is it a simple matter of just extending the seams???
I'm going to make a mock up of it in the largest size and see where I
am at....
my other thought is that simplity has a pattern(4357) that looks to me
very similar...it's out of print, but still available. that IS in my
measurements range....would it be best to just go for that one?
betsey
BEI Design
> "BEI Design" wrote:
<snip>
>
> that is what I am thinking too....but if i add to the
> biceps--will
> that affect how it attaches to the body of the jacket?
I prefer not to fiddle with altering sleeve caps, so in
order to leave the sleeve cap the original size, while still
adding to the width at the bicep, here's what I do for a
one-piece sleeve, and your pattern does appear to be a
one-piece sleeve:
I slash the pattern vertically in half, and horizontally
right at the underarm to within 5/8" of the edges (in other
words, leaving the seam allowance uncut). Then I pivot all
four pieces, leaving the top, bottom and sides attached, and
adding about an inch to the width. Re-draw the bottom hem
(add a little length 'just in case'), and round the top a
little, and voila, the sleeve cap will still fit the
armscye, and you have the additional room for your upper
arm. This works well if all you have to add is an inch or
so.
> and..when you say with it having many seams, so it should
> be adaptable for sizing up....is it a simple matter of
> just extending the seams???
Yes, sort of, probably. ;-) If you look at multi-sized
patterns you'll see how they add small amounts to the edges
of each piece to size up. If you add 1/4" or so to the
edges (1/8" on each side) of eight jacket pieces, you will
have added .25" x 8 = 2 inches. But be careful, when you
add to those seam edges, you also alter the way they fit
together. And you don't want the full 1/4" at some
positions, such as at the shoulder, while you might want
more, for instance at the center back, so you can move your
arms easily.
> I'm going to make a mock up of it in the largest size and
> see where I
> am at....
>
> my other thought is that simplity has a pattern(4357)
> that looks to me very similar...it's out of print, but
> still available. that IS in my measurements
> range....would it be best to just go for that one?
I can't locate an image of that pattern, but that might be a
much better starting point, until/unless you are skilled at
making the pattern alterations to size the first one up.
Beverly
BEI Design
<snip>
I just took a look at the additional information on your
pattern. It says:
"All sizes have 4" of ease at the bust or chest, which is
considered to be fitted."
Which means that the size 24 pattern (46" bust) is about
46"+4"=50". In order for you to have 4" of ease you have to
create a pattern which is 49"+4"=53" at the chest. Adding
3" to the chest circumference is *possible*. Note that you
may have to make different adjustments to the
waist/length/etc.
In addition, the pattern description says:
"We recommend using mediumweight woven or stable knit
fabrics with 10-15% crosswise stretch (10" of fabric
stretches to 11" to 15"). This pattern can be made from
non-stretch fabrics, but please note that the fit will then
be more snug."
So if your fabric is non-stretch woven, you'll have to add
*additional* ease for a comfortable fit, especially
important across the back so that you can move your arms
forward without constriction.
I really think you would be better off starting with a
pattern in your size, and making alterations for style.
HTH,
Beverly
betsey
wrote:
Beverly--
thank you so much for your advice. Tonight I did lay out the pattern
pieces and "study" it all. I've read everything you (and everyone
else!) has written...and my conclusion?
I ordered the simplicity pattern <grin>. I think it's a better way to
start for my "first" one. after that, I can get brave! <grin>
betsey
betsey
>
> - Show quoted text -
oh....here's a link: http://www.mainstreetmallonline.com/patterns/listingview.php?num=16198&ref=16
BEI Design
> >
> > thank you so much for your advice. Tonight I did lay
> > out the pattern
> > pieces and "study" it all. I've read everything you
> > (and everyone
> > else!) has written...and my conclusion?
> >
> > I ordered the simplicity pattern <grin>. I think it's a
> > better way to
> > start for my "first" one. after that, I can get brave!
> > <grin>
> >
> > betsey- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> oh....here's a link:
> http://www.mainstreetmallonline.com/patterns/listingview.php?num=16198&ref=16
I think that's a good decision. Making size changes to a
princess-seam jacket is not for the beginner, or maybe even
the intermediate sewist (but I don't know your sewing
level). With that Simplicity pattern in the size you need,
you should be able to get a good first effort (AKA muslin or
toile) and then make modifications later for the next
jacket. Be sure you pay attention to the fabric
recommendations! And you may want to consider making your
first effort with some additional width added to the center
back, the Simplicity is probably not designed with horse
riding in mind. ;-)
The style features (shorter length, different collars,
different bottom treatment, cuffs, and even the asymmetrical
closing) in the Suitability pattern would not be that
difficult to transfer to the Simplicity later after you have
a good fitting pattern.
Good luck,
Beverly
betsey
wrote:
> betsey wrote:
>
> > > thank you so much for your advice. Tonight I did lay
> > > out the pattern
> > > pieces and "study" it all. I've read everything you
> > > (and everyone
> > > else!) has written...and my conclusion?
>
> > > I ordered the simplicity pattern <grin>. I think it's a
> > > better way to
> > > start for my "first" one. after that, I can get brave!
> > > <grin>
>
> > > betsey- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > oh....here's a link:
>
> I think that's a good decision. Making size changes to a
> princess-seam jacket is not for the beginner, or maybe even
> the intermediate sewist (but I don't know your sewing
> level). With that Simplicity pattern in the size you need,
> you should be able to get a good first effort (AKA muslin or
> toile) and then make modifications later for the next
> jacket. Be sure you pay attention to the fabric
> recommendations! And you may want to consider making your
> first effort with some additional width added to the center
> back, the Simplicity is probably not designed with horse
> riding in mind. ;-)
>
> The style features (shorter length, different collars,
> different bottom treatment, cuffs, and even the asymmetrical
> closing) in the Suitability pattern would not be that
> difficult to transfer to the Simplicity later after you have
> a good fitting pattern.
>
> Good luck,
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thank you Beverly. You very much confirmed what I was thinking. I'm
a quilter, but by no means a sewist. I can make some PJ bottoms and
halloween costumes....I've made a few jackets as part of halloween
costumes, but this (at least in my mind) is a little different.
Thank you for the advice about the back of the jacket!!
BEI Design
> "BEI Design" wrote:
<snip>
>
> Thank you Beverly. You very much confirmed what I was
> thinking. I'm
> a quilter, but by no means a sewist. I can make some PJ
> bottoms and halloween costumes....I've made a few jackets
> as part of halloween costumes, but this (at least in my
> mind) is a little different.
> Thank you for the advice about the back of the jacket!!
You're welcome.
One other thing, I cannot tell from the link you provided,
if the jacket does not have a center back seam, I would
*add* one (just add a 5/8" seam allowance to the fold line).
And I would curve it out a little to add that extra ease.
If it already has a CB seam, just add about 1/2" at the
level of the bottom of the armscye and taper it back in to
the neckline and waistline. This will give you some added
ease as you move your arms forward and/or up.
I also cannot tell if the Simplicity has princess seams in
the back, I hope it does. If it doesn't, it will probably
have darts. You can either go with the darts, or modify the
pattern to make princess seams in the back, to match the
front. You may find you'll want your jacket to fit tighter
at the waist, I don't know what riding gear requirements
are. My DGD's Highland dance costumes are made to very
demanding standards, you may have something similar for
equestrian wear.
Beverly
betsey
wrote:
Thank you so much. When I get the pattern I will look and see what
the back is (i have a feeling it's one piece) and will do what you
suggest.
Western show wear--for the skinny crowd, it seems to be as tight as
you can get <g>....since i don't fall there, i'm shooting for fitted
but comfortable. i'm fairly certain i can adapt the collar and add
cuffs to the simplicity jacket and be right in line.
Betsey
Kay Lancaster
>
> that is what I am thinking too....but if i add to the biceps--will
> that affect how it attaches to the body of the jacket? and..when you
> say with it having many seams, so it should be adaptable for sizing
> up....is it a simple matter of just extending the seams???
Nope... think about what happens if you add 1/4" (for example) all around the
edge of the jacket panels. The neckline gets smaller, the concave curve of
the princess seam gets smaller, but the convex curve of the princess seam
in the side panel gets longer... and the two formerly matching seamlines
won't sew together correctly.
It's why grading up or down gets tricky for most of us who sew at home.
Or take a look at this post:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/funny-monday-its-not-just-me/
I really think you're likely to be better off with a jacket pattern
sized for you at this stage of your sewing journey.
Kay