Several customers of mine have had telephone wiring companies in to wire
their basements in the process of finishing them. These guys don't always
understand how alarms work, and will wire the new phone loops to the Tip and
Ring connections of the CA38A jack, thereby putting that part of the phone
network ahead of the alarm panel. I don't usually find out about this until
I try to dial in to the panel, and it has trouble communicating with my
computer during upload / download. This necessitates a needless service call
to rectify the situation. This situation is not severe enough to stop the
test signal from going through either, nor alarm signals in most cases, so I
usually find out about it almost by accident...
So, now I've taken to running a loop from the T1 / R1 side of the jack over
to a separate small connector box a foot away, and clearly marking this as
the point for all telephone connections. Written on the box is "connect all
telephones here only". This keeps these guys away from the alarm system and
gives them an easy to find connecting point for telephone extensions....
Simple and it works for me...
R.H.Campbell
Home Security Metal Products
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
www.homemetal.com
Good point. I think I might just have a better solution though. Someone
else brought it up in the past few days. Better Way makes this model BW-1
phone connector. If the subscriber has one of the newer telco blocks (ugly,
gray box on the side of the house), you can wire the RJ-31X (CA38A in
Canada) jack to the BW-1. Unplug the house phones plug from the jack inside
the telco protector. Plug the BW-1 in its stead. Insert the house phones
plug into the BW-1's jack.
Now the client or the telco can connect anything they want at any time and
it won't interfere with the alarm. If you have these telco boxes on the
side of the building, the BW-1 makes the alarm connection permanently idiot
proof. Of course you'll also want to tamper the telco box to keep someone
from unplugging the BW-1.
Even if the TI does take out the BW-1 he probably won't cut it because its
removal eliminates the alarm from the phone line entirely. When the panel
fails to send in its daily test signal you can call the client and tell him
to go plug the "gray thingy" into the phone line the way it says in the
picture you left inside the alarm control panel. :^)
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
ASA Approved Vendor
http://www.Bass-Home.com
2291 Pine View Cir
Sarasota, FL 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Support
941-925-9747 Fax
rober...@comcast.net
=============================>
"RH Campbell" <rh.ca...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Grv0a.283957$pDv.2...@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
Good idea though ! It's great to see some of these helpful ideas pop up
rather than the string of "wireless is bad" posts proliferating in the ng
lately....
RHC
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:DAydnexNTIc...@giganews.com...
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
ASA Approved Vendor
http://www.Bass-Home.com
2291 Pine View Cir
Sarasota, FL 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Support
941-925-9747 Fax
rober...@comcast.net
=============================>
"RH Campbell" <rh.ca...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4Jw0a.579307$F2h1....@news01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
RHC
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:L8idnetnH8o...@giganews.com...
ADI, Tri-Ed
"RH Campbell" <rh.ca...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:NgC0a.286135$pDv.2...@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
However, in thinking back about this problem of miswiring, just as many of
these problems were caused by the homeowner who decided to finish his
basement himself and then wires the phones in to the alarm incorrectly
(rather than calling me like I ask them to...). I think the little marked
block is more useful in those instances, since he doesn't have to guess
where to connect. I'm also going to point this connection point out to the
client during the training, when I take him downstairs to point out how to
test if the phones are dead etc, or show him how if the telco asks him to
disconnect his alarm....
...(you toucha my alarm, I slappa yo hands....).....
RHC
"J. Stevens" <alarm...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ezF0a.1612$q91.1...@news2.west.cox.net...
http://www.bass-home.com/faq/bw1.cfm
If you program the panel for line fault monitoring with some reasonable
delay the client will know when the TI forgets (or doesn't bother) to plug
the BW-1 back into the jack. Since the BW-1 will reside on the client side
of the demarc, you can walk the client through reconnecting if it's not
possible to go out to the site right away.
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
ASA Approved Vendor
http://www.Bass-Home.com
2291 Pine View Cir
Sarasota, FL 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Support
941-925-9747 Fax
rober...@comcast.net
=============================>
"RH Campbell" <rh.ca...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:pTF0a.288155$pDv.2...@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
RHC
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2zGdnTwMucx...@giganews.com...
"RH Campbell" <rh.ca...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:x_O0a.591295$F2h1....@news01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
Regardless of the use of this connector (or not), personally, I still intend
to wire in a small connection box hooked to the yellow / black and clearly
marked for the homeowner's use in connecting additional phone loops. It's
only a few cents, and it will save me a service call when he finishes his
basement and decides to get creative with his own wiring
RHC
"Mike Dupre" <mdu...@medi-call.ca> wrote in message
news:yDY0a.295120$pDv.1...@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ngOdnTuROtS...@giganews.com...
> You could actually use the best of both ideas, Bob. Wire the BW-1 inside
> the telco demarc. Install the RJ-31X inside the alarm panel. Put your
> connection block outside the panel so the client can add phone jacks to it
> at will. Since the RJ-31X will be inside the panel the client will be far
> less likely to screw things up in the future With the BW-1 inside the
> demarc the TI can unplug you when he services the line without having to
> screw around inside the alarm panel.
>
That's one of the reasons for the jack, !
Your line isn't any more secure with the jack in the can. Why bother with
the jack? Stupid advice.
As for the rest of this, people who live in glass houses...
> If you program the panel for line fault monitoring with some reasonable
> delay the client will know when the TI forgets (or doesn't bother) to plug
> the BW-1 back into the jack. Since the BW-1 will reside on the client
side
> of the demarc, you can walk the client through reconnecting if it's not
> possible to go out to the site right away.
>
> Regards,
> Robert L Bass
>
> =============================>
>
One advantage I see with the BW-1 is it allows the end user or TI to do
things exactly as they always have. They don't need to learn anything new.
The BW-1 puts the RJ-31X between them and the outside line, making it a
natural for them to do what we want them to do. IMO that's a few very well
spent dollars.
Suggestion: Contact Better Way yourself and ask for a free sample. Try it
out. I'm betting that once you actually use it you'll have this big grin,
saying "Yes. Problem solved." :^)
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
ASA Approved Vendor
http://www.Bass-Home.com
2291 Pine View Cir
Sarasota, FL 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Support
941-925-9747 Fax
rober...@comcast.net
=============================>
The inside of the panel is accessable to the homeowner. Give him the key
and show him how to disconnect the RJ-31X inside the panel. If the jack is
exposed, anyone might unplug it. When the TI needs to work the homeowner
can unplug the RJ-31X for him. Never let a TI work unsupervised.
> Wire the plug for a trouble signal both at the keypad and the station.
That is good advice.
--
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
And he can show the wife and kids. And here, so we can find it, let's keep
the key right here on top of the can.
If the jack is
> exposed, anyone might unplug it.
Yes, you're catching on. That is the general idea. That is why it is
designed with the shorting bars and not like this BW thing you think is so
wonderful.
The BW "thing" is not meant to necessarily REPLACE the RJ-31X. From their
FAQ:
Q. Doesn't an RJ31X Jack and cord provide the same function?
A. Absolutely not. Even though the RJ31X Jack and cord does provide a way to
disconnect the alarm system from the phone line, you still are required to
remove the original wiring from the screw terminals, and splice the
customer's wires to the alarm system return feed wires that are inside the
interface box. Even though the RJ31X is usually installed inside or next to
the alarm panel, you still have the wire run from the interface to the RJ31X
jack that can have an open or a short, or may be cut, etc. Even though the
customer can remove the dial tone from the alarm panel if a malfunction of
the alarm panel should occur, the RJ31X jack and cord has a completely
different function, and was designed for a different purpose entirely.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Q. Can I use a BW Connector, and the RJ31X if I want to?
A. Absolutely. You can still provide your customer with a way to disconnect
the alarm system from the phone line with the RJ31X, but you still need to
provide the Phone Company with a way to disconnect the alarm system from the
outside of the premises, as they have to charge to do any work on the inside
of the home.
-Tim
I usually showed each member of the family who is old enough to understand
how to operate the alarm system. The parents decide who is old enough --
not me. Part of user training is a thorough explanation in layman's terms
of how the system functions. Part of that includes how and where to
disconnect the RJ-31X if the need arises.
> And here, so we can find it, let's keep the key right here
> on top of the can.
I always preferred to give a copy of the key to each parent. You get two
keys with each lock.
>> If the jack is exposed, anyone might unplug it.
>
> Yes, you're catching on.
I "caught on" long before you dreamt of installing your first alarm, friend.
I know how often the TI's leave customers unprotected by cutting out the
RJ-31X circuitry. In the old days phone line fault monitors were so
unreliable that few alarm companies used them.
> That is the general idea...
Uh, no. The "general idea" is to make it so the alarm system can be easily
disconnected by the homeowner or by someone the homeowner authorizes if it
should malfunction -- not so the children's playmates from down the street
or any workman can unplug it.
> That is why it is designed with the shorting bars and
> not like this BW thing you think is so wonderful.
Shorting bars make it posible to disconnect the alarm without cutting off
the phone line. They are just as effective if the jack is safely tucked
away behind the alarm control panel door.
AHAH! oh, I see, yes a real plus in that situation. We still have many
arrestors inside in basements up here and often both places.
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:KOWdndVUq4z...@giganews.com...
If it is exterior to the can, the residential client can easily access it if
necessary for testing etc. I don't personally believe it is a security risk,
because if the thief has gotten that far already, it's too late anyway.
However, in commercial situations - and especially where the can is located
on a back panel in view and not above the hung ceiling out of sight - IMO it
should then be inside the can .
This whole argument might be splitting hairs a bit, but I intend to leave
the jack external in my residential installations unless I see a good reason
to do otherwise. And if I see any possibility of the client messing with
wiring later on, the little external telephone connector box goes in.
Personally, I never lock cans with a lock; I've had to pick too many open
during takeovers. IMO they serve little useful purpose. And since I am
responsible for ALL service related to the system, there is no reason for
anyone to enter. In the old days, VSN used to put a seal over the can which
voided the warranty if broken. However, this was done to discourage the
client from changing his own battery at far less cost than getting it from
VSN.....
Gawd !! Those ADT Focus cans are made of good solid steel. If you can't pick
them for any reason, you have to drill them out. They cannot be forced open
easily.....
R.H.Campbell
Home Security Metal Products
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
www.homemetal.com
"Mike Dupre" <mdu...@medi-call.ca> wrote in message
news:abc1a.301679$pDv.1...@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
Regards,
Robert L Bass
=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
ASA Approved Vendor
http://www.Bass-Home.com
2291 Pine View Cir
Sarasota, FL 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Support
941-925-9747 Fax
rober...@comcast.net
=============================>
> A voice of reason. Thank you.
"G. Morgan" <y...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:27qa4vgaer5d6q0gv...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 8 Feb 2003 14:53:40 -0500, "Robert L. Bass"
> <rober...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >Perhaps you don't work with any of these panels so your experience is
different from mine, Graham. Precisely which installation manuals do you
know of that require the RJ-31X to be mounted outside the can? I've read
the FCC Part 68 Compliance statement and it says nothing about mounting the
jack inside or outside the can.
>
> I will have to get back to you on this matter to clear it up. You
> want proof and it's not at my fingertips right now. I will respond
> when I have the documents, remind me if I don't in the next few days.
>
> -Graham
>
>
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message news:WnOdneFK9rn...@giganews.com...
"Mike Simpson" <msi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b24540$194eq6$1...@ID-123047.news.dfncis.de...
"Mike Simpson" <msi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b24540$194eq6$1...@ID-123047.news.dfncis.de...
"m..leuck" <m.l....@attbi.com> wrote in message news:nah1a.39571$vm2.22512@rwcrnsc54...
>It also says that on the Simon 3 manual page 13
> "Mike Simpson" <msi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b24540$194eq6$1...@ID-123047.news.dfncis.de...
> ITI Concord, page 15...
>
> Locate the RJ-31X Jack (CA-38A in Canada) no further than 5 feet from the panel.
>
> Mike Simpson
>
> "Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message news:WnOdneFK9rn...@giganews.com...
> Hmm. Let's consider a few popular brands:
>
> Ademco Vista 20SE: The manual makes no mention of where the RJ-31X jack should be installed. It does discuss the method of connection at great length on pages 12, 33, 34, 40 and 88. Interestingly, page 88 includes the standardized "FCC Part 68 Compliance Statement" which also says not a word about where the jack belongs.
>
> CADDX NX-8e: Doesn't even discuss the subject. (Miserable manual)
>
> DSC Power832: On page 10 the manual instructs: "Telephone Connection Terminals - TIP, RING, T-1, R-1
> If a telephone line is required for central station communication or downloading, connect an RJ-31X jack in the
> following manner:
> . RING - Red Wire ________ Incoming line from
> . TIP - Green Wire telephone company
> . R-1 - Grey Wire__________ Outgoing line to
> . T-1 - Brown Wire house telephone(s)"
I agree but thats just what the manual says, I always placed mine under the
can since customers tend to lose keys
> Page 16.12 of the Vista 128 installers guide "installer should
> refrain from anal activity while following these instructions"
Hmm, must be an ADT manual :)
"Mike Simpson" <msi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b24540$194eq6$1...@ID-123047.news.dfncis.de...
"m..leuck" <m.l....@attbi.com> wrote in message news:nah1a.39571$vm2.22512@rwcrnsc54...
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message news:CQedneFMQPf...@giganews.com...
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:Maednbtvwu4...@giganews.com...
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"m..leuck" <m.l....@attbi.com> wrote in message news:iOj1a.40816$be.29486@rwcrnsc53...
"Jeff" <jmo...@hcis.net> wrote in message
news:3e45c...@corp.newsgroups.com...
>Subject: Re: Wiring for phones and alarms
>From: "RH Campbell" <rh.ca...@sympatico.ca>
>Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2003 22:01:45 GMT
Sure they can. Just pull out the hinge pin.
Jim
(Email upon request)
Hmmm....must be several models out there....
RHC
"Alarmanex" <alar...@aol.comQzap> wrote in message
news:20030208235502...@mb-fh.aol.com...
"RH Campbell" <rh.ca...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Anm1a.253095$ej1.1...@news02.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
the keypad beeps and mommy spanks his ass
>as oppose to what can happen if what?
Communicator lock
> it up?
I'm not sure what that is but any dialler can inordinately tie up a phone
line. In a
commercial ap, there'd no doubt be another line or two and cell phones are
prevalent these days so maybe I'm a tad melodramatic in my stance but
>Phone man wants to unplug it?
Uh, that's why it's there and that's why they install them.
(they're not stupid enough to do it for free though)
>
>
> "Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:Maednbtvwu4...@giganews.com...
> > If there's a cam lock the alarm can is the best place for it. Since
there
> > is no regulation which specifically states where it is, this is all
> personal
> > opinion. In my case the opinion is based on 26 years in the business.
> Feel
> > free to disagree... for now. :^)
> >
> > Regards,
> > Robert L Bass
> >
> > =============================>
Pretty harsh way to start my day though. Lawsuit, shudder, one of those L
words like litigation, legal, lawyer...
Sunday morning and all too, not much sympathy for fellow alarm dealers here
ehhhhhhhhhh?
"Sharmon" <o...@request.com> wrote in message
news:ujnc4vko9kkuq7j5o...@4ax.com...
>Subject: Re: Wiring for phones and alarms
>From: "RH Campbell" <rh.ca...@sympatico.ca>
>Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2003 06:17:04 GMT
>
>WHAT?.....I never found a hinge pin on their cans...only the integrated full
>length hinges that aren't openable that way......
>
>Hmmm....must be several models out there....
>
>RHC
I'm not really sure which mfg's have which kind of hinges and I don't know what
you mean my an "integrated full length hinge". However if you just mean a full
length hinge, If I can't just grab the pin, I pry the top hinge flange open, or
clip it with a pair of dykes which exposes the pin. Most times this is enough
to allow me to grab on to the hinge pin with a pair of lineman pliers and pull
it out. Full length or two or three smaller hinges. The only doors I've run
across that can't be removed this way are the removeable ones that hook on to
the box with flanges rather than using a hinge. But ....... as I say, I've not
seen every manufacturers boxes.
Jim
(Email upon request)