DSC PC1000 troubleshooting
RAJP53
I am having trouble getting the thing to go "Ready" and to go "Armed". I have
the "System" light on, and it tells me that the back-up battery is low, but if
that is the case, shouldn't the system still work? Any suggestions as to how
to get the system running? And what kind of back-up battery and when can I buy
one? Thanks.
R..
m..leuck
"RAJP53" <raj...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020602174701...@mb-dd.aol.com...
Sounds like it already is working, the battery is in the "can" somewhere in
the house, you should be able to go to Rat Shack for a replacement
Jacob Ashbury
alarm system in it.
Frank Olson
when you bypass any zones in the system too... Speaking of which... when you
bypass all the zones (press "*", then "1", then "1,2,3,4") do you get a "ready"
light then?
If you're going to replace the battery (which is what it sounds like you need
anyway), use a sealed lead-acid type (YUASA, GFX, GS Portalac) 12 volt 4.0 AH
minimum.
If you need the installer programming manual, let me know... I've got a couple
layin' about...
Regards,
Frank
Group Moderator
Look in "the can." Somewhere, probably in a closet, is a metal box with the
alarm system in it.
Mike Said:
I can see this guy looking all over his bathroom for this thing.
Mike, Sr.
Alarm Services Inc.(NJ)
Group Moderator
http://www.AlarmServicesInc.Com
APPROVED VENDOR - Attention DIY's & Newbies
http://www.goofysplace.com/GOOFY/altsecurityalarms_.htm
Visit The Goofy Bass Website
http://www.goofysplace.com/
Jacob Ashbury
"Group Moderator" <alarm...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020603051323...@mb-cs.aol.com...
> Jake Wronte:
> Look in "the can." Somewhere, probably in a closet, is a metal box with
the
> alarm system in it.
>
> Mike Said:
> I can see this guy looking all over his bathroom for this thing.
I thought of that after I posted. Then I realized he's probably NOT from
"the city" so he wouldn't look there first anyway.
I also realized Sarasota Slime would be still looking in his tech books for
"can" and it would be driving him nuts- so, all in all it was worth it.
Jim Rojas
wipe the panel, and start all over again. The reset pins are located behind
the dialer daughter board. You must power down the unit, remove the dialer
card, and place a shorting block on the reset pins. Power the unit up for 20
seconds, power down. Remove shorting block, reinstall the dialer card, then
power up again. This will completely default the panel. It is a good idea to
replace the battery anyway, since you don't know how old it is. When you do
replace the battery, please write the date on the battery with a permanent
marker for future reference. If you need programming assistance, or a
manual, please let me know.
Jim Rojas
"RAJP53" <raj...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020602174701...@mb-dd.aol.com...
brtb
with no reset pins? Got one of those in a box under my desk, from an
old house of mine two states ago so of course nobody remembers the
codes.
No battery but no system light on either, when it's powered up it's
locked in an Armed state already. The board is a slightly different
layout than the one in the installation manual I found
(http://web8.pipemedia.net/cctvonline/manuals/intruder/DSC/PC1000%20Installation%20Manual.pdf);
the 3 fuses are lined up in a column above the heatsink rather than
next to it.
Any ideas? Only thing I can think of is to desolder the "9346" EEPROM
and either reprogram it somehow or install a blank one.
------------------
brtb
use...@brtb.org
------------------
"Jim Rojas" <jro...@tech-man.com> wrote in message news:<NKKK8.13532$b73....@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
m..leuck
right and it should default
"brtb" <goo...@brtb.org> wrote in message
news:fa73a1db.0206...@posting.google.com...
Horus
normally see, right? It used to be that DSC produced two different versions of their panels (I'm talking
1000, 2550 and 3000 series now). The Canadian version had a plain piece of bent aluminum for the heat
sink, while the "US" version employed an extruded piece with multiple fins (like what they use now) to
meet UL requirements. There was a company that was importing US boards for resale here in competition
with SSI (who was the DSC distributor before TRI-ED). When I checked with SSI about that they told me
that they woudn't honour the warranty on any US built boards. Some dealers got "suckered" though because
of the price.
Frank
Roger W.
>From: Horus Ho...@telus.net
>Date: 6/29/02 11:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time
>Message-id: <3D1DD302...@telus.net>
>
Frank said:
>Actually, you might have a "Canadian" board there... The heat sink's a lot
>smaller that what you would
>normally see, right?
RW:
Actually, I never had a Canadian broad before. Do they really have smaller heat
sinks?................
Oh! I'm sorry Frank, I misread your post. Board not broad. Never mind. My
mistake.
Horus
Don't you??? But you do just gotta LOVE Summer... The shorts get "shorter", the
"thongs" are smaller (I didn't think that was possible, but have you seen the
latest?) "Wowzza!"
VSS DOUG
communicator pins after unplugging the dialer module, I can't remember offhand
but it may have been the second one in from each end, I may have an "older"
1000 manual laying around somewhere, if I find it I'll let you know which pins
to short.
Doug L
brtb wrote
Horus
VSS DOUG
Doug L
Horus wrote
Horus
Frank
J. Stevens
default. I've only got one left out there though, and I'll replace it if it
so much as sneezes.
js
PS: How 'bout a pic for the gallery, Doug? Let the rest of the group see
just how handsome you truly are. :-)
"VSS DOUG" <vss...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020629114247...@mb-cq.aol.com...
m..leuck
terminals
"Horus" <Ho...@telus.net> wrote in message
news:3D1DD652...@telus.net...
brtb
experimentation afterwards I found that apparently using a
less-volts-than-spec power supply can make it wipe the chip as well
(and has about 5-6 times now... need to find a bigger transformer) =]
Now for the other question... is there any way to make it quit trying
to use the dialer module that doesn't exist? Not really a serious
problem, just an annoyance; as far as I can tell the only side-effect
is a fail-to-communicate trouble code (and the System light) when the
test doesn't go through.
-----------------
brtb
use...@brtb.org
-----------------
"m..leuck" <m.l....@attbi.com> wrote in message news:<zApT8.350248$352.41715@sccrnsc02>...
m..leuck
> Shorting the eeprom worked fine, thanks... of course through more
> experimentation afterwards I found that apparently using a
> less-volts-than-spec power supply can make it wipe the chip as well
> (and has about 5-6 times now... need to find a bigger transformer) =]
No you need to find a better panel instead of that old crap :)
> Now for the other question... is there any way to make it quit trying
> to use the dialer module that doesn't exist? Not really a serious
> problem, just an annoyance; as far as I can tell the only side-effect
> is a fail-to-communicate trouble code (and the System light) when the
> test doesn't go through.
Take out the phone number and report codes is all you can do then cycle
power
brtb
NO information on, an even older wireless-based "CEO" (Colorado
Electro-Optics?) model "P-65" wooden box that somehow uses model
"D-24A" sensor transmitters from Linear Electronics...
http://www.linearcorp.com/products.asp?product=SNT00189&cat=38&detail=70
and two remote arm/disarm transmitters that SAY they're some CEO model
but look amazingly like the Linear "D-4B"...
http://www.linearcorp.com/products.asp?product=SNT00048B&cat=38&detail=70
Of course all these old transmitters (May '84 date codes) use 303.5mhz
and Linear's site says all their new "standard digital" devices use
303.875mhz so I'm guessing they're not interchangeable...
This monster of a system was already installed in this place when I
bought it but has never worked right, the transformer fell apart...
now if there was a way to use the transmitters with the DSC panel it'd
save me a lot of trouble trying to rewire this whole place
(3000-square-foot house) =]
"m..leuck" <m.l....@attbi.com> wrote in message news:<IwGT8.44309$Uu2.7631@sccrnsc03>...
Robert L. Bass
out. Please be careful not to let cooper see where you throw it or we may
shortly see a new version of the Loxxoff. :^)
All kidding aside, the CEO stuff was garbage -- totally unreliable crap.
"brtb" <goo...@brtb.org> wrote in message
news:fa73a1db.02063...@posting.google.com...
m..leuck
disfunctional
"brtb" <goo...@brtb.org> wrote in message
news:fa73a1db.02063...@posting.google.com...
> Hey it's either this semi-functional box or the other one I can find
> NO information on, an even older wireless-based "CEO" (Colorado
> Electro-Optics?) model "P-65" wooden box that somehow uses model
> "D-24A" sensor transmitters from Linear Electronics...
>
> http://www.linearcorp.com/products.asp?product=SNT00189&cat=38&detail=70
>
> and two remote arm/disarm transmitters that SAY they're some CEO model
> but look amazingly like the Linear "D-4B"...
>
> http://www.linearcorp.com/products.asp?product=SNT00048B&cat=38&detail=70
>
> Of course all these old transmitters (May '84 date codes) use 303.5mhz
> and Linear's site says all their new "standard digital" devices use
> 303.875mhz so I'm guessing they're not interchangeable...
No they aren't, Linear's current line consists of 3 different panels with 3
different types of transmitters for some strange reason
>
> This monster of a system was already installed in this place when I
> bought it but has never worked right, the transformer fell apart...
> now if there was a way to use the transmitters with the DSC panel it'd
> save me a lot of trouble trying to rewire this whole place
> (3000-square-foot house) =]
Not without a Linear receiver, even with this the wireless is junk
Allan Waghalter
"Robert L. Bass" <rober...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kWMT8.473533$Gs.33...@bin5.nnrp.aus1.giganews.com...