DSC Zone Expander PC5108
Daniel Ionescu
up the system-all OK.
Activate tamper switch-everything died. Turned out the TAM terminal is
connected to Red (+12VDC) and the switch short-circuits it to ground. Got a
replacement-same problem.
Did anybody else have this problem? Can any of you guys put an ohmmeter on
red and black terminal and press the built-in temper switch to see if you
get the short circuit?
Daniel Ionescu
I know.
The connection to +12VDC is done internally, on the board itself. I believe
to be a manufacturing problem.
With an ohmmeter connected to Black (-12VDC) and Red(+12VDC) I get 0 (zero)
ohms whenever I press the onboard tamper switch. That is with the module on
the table, not connected to anything else and without power. And it happened
on both the original and replacement module. I wonder if you have a module
that you can verify.
Jim Rojas - Technical Manuals Online! wrote in message
<35B3FBD8...@tech-man.com>...
Jim Rojas - Technical Manuals Online!
You won't get a valid reading across the power circuit. Set it to Volts not
ohms. You should read 12.4 - 13.7 volts. Remove the tamper switch. Just place
the jumper between TAM and COM or -12VDC. Whenever you disconnect this item,
please be sure to power down the control. You can cause the unit not to respond
as it is supposed to. Let me know if that works.
Jim
Active Digital Security
wrote:
>I got one of these with my Power 832 panel. Wired it per the manual. Powered
>up the system-all OK.
>Activate tamper switch-everything died. Turned out the TAM terminal is
>connected to Red (+12VDC) and the switch short-circuits it to ground. Got a
>replacement-same problem.
>Did anybody else have this problem? Can any of you guys put an ohmmeter on
>red and black terminal and press the built-in temper switch to see if you
>get the short circuit?
>
I'm not quite sure what you're getting at above, but it sounds like
you wired the TAM terminal to the RED terminal - is this right?
If you did, then you got it wrong.
If you DON'T want the tamper switch active, connect a link between TAM
and BLACK, or OV, or any COM terminal.
If you DO want the tampr switch active, wire it as per any NC device -
in this case connect a 5600R resistor across TAM and COM.
At least, this is the way the UK versions work - which I believe are
the same as yours.....
HTH
Rgds,
Bill Boyd
Active Security Systems
"What Could you be Missing?"
Professional Electronic Security Installation and Service
Visit www.alarms.demon.co.uk today.....
Daniel Ionescu
anybody else ran into the same problem.
I actually traced the circuitry and found that 2 of the 4 pins of the
onboard switch are connected together and to the TAM terminal on the back
side of the board, while the other 2 and the metal cover are connected to
the BLACK terminal on the front of the board. The problem was that the
circuitry on the back of the board was also connected to RED. And it was
quite easy to check it. Disconnect everything from the board. Connect an
ohmmeter between RED and BLACK and press the onboard switch. I got 0 (ZERO)
ohms.
Hoowever, I found what was wrong with the board and fixed it. Just wanted to
know if anybody else had the same problem.
Active Digital Security wrote in message
<35b515d1...@news.demon.co.uk>...
Active Digital Security
wrote:
>Wired just like that and got the short circuit. That's why I wondered if
>anybody else ran into the same problem.
>I actually traced the circuitry and found that 2 of the 4 pins of the
>onboard switch are connected together and to the TAM terminal on the back
>side of the board, while the other 2 and the metal cover are connected to
>the BLACK terminal on the front of the board. The problem was that the
>circuitry on the back of the board was also connected to RED. And it was
>quite easy to check it. Disconnect everything from the board. Connect an
>ohmmeter between RED and BLACK and press the onboard switch. I got 0 (ZERO)
>ohms.
>Hoowever, I found what was wrong with the board and fixed it. Just wanted to
>know if anybody else had the same problem.
Got you.
I've not come across this on any UK 5108 s but I'll keep a look out
for it just in case :-)