Wire nuts or b-nuts for fire alarm splices
Alarm
I've been running into sloppy splices made with b connectors for
commercial fire alarm work. Some twisted and others with the conductors
parallel but all of the connection have some wire exposed. It appears that
the installers couldn't squeeze all of the two 18 ga. wires into the b
connector.
I was thought to twist the conductors together then use a properly sized
wire nut to secure the connection. If I ever tried to use the b connector
method the senior installer would have had my head for it!
I'm interested in feed back from the group as to their preferred
splicing methods and if there are any references or publications covering
the proper methods.
Thanks
Alarm
Jacob Ashbury
jacket a little less than 1/2", twist the wire and 'screw' the beanie on
it. I then crimp the beanie from end to end. Finally I pull the wires
firmly just to make sure the connection is secure. I make sure no bare wire
is visible before squeezing the beanie.
What's the difference in this and a wire-nut? I think a wire-nut is less
secure. I've seen lots of twists with tape that are very secure.
I guess the whole joining thing boils down to who is doing it. I've seen
some solder and shrink-wrap splices come apart- ?
Properly sized wire-nut? If put on by someone that cares I imagine this
would last forever- I just don't trust wire-nuts, I would still (and have)
tape over the wire-nut connection.
Alarm wrote in message <92881018...@news.remarQ.com>...
James R Turner
> >splicing methods
Solder and shrink-wrap only. It takes much longer. I have
never seen one of these fail, beanies and nuts yes.
j
VSS DOUG
>I'm interested in feed back from the group as to their preferred
>splicing methods
I use wire nuts for any wire 18g or larger and for fire alarms regardless of
wire size.
For the smaller wires 22g etc I use beanies.
Doug L
Jacob Ashbury
James R Turner wrote in message <375CAC...@swixo.com>...
>> >I'm interested in feed back from the group as to their preferred
>> >splicing methods
Robert L Bass
>
> 18 ga.- (solid core) barely held by beanies (b-connectors).
> I strip the jacket a little less than 1/2", twist the wire and
> 'screw' the beanie on it. I then crimp the beanie from end
> to end. Finally I pull the wires firmly just to make sure the
> connection is secure. I make sure no bare wire is visible
> before squeezing the beanie.
Jacob's procedure is good. Although the beanies claim not to require
stripping the wire, it's still better to do so and then to twist them
together for a solid connection. There's one thing I do a little different
when using beanies (aka "B" Connectors) for 18-gauge wire. I hold the
connector edgewise in the jaws of my crimp tool and give it a little squeeze
to open the jaws wider. Then I insert the twisted splice all the way into
the connector before crimping it shut. Either way works fine but that's my
preference.
> What's the difference in this and a wire-nut? I think a wire-nut
> is less secure. I've seen lots of twists with tape that are very
> secure.
Agreed about the wire nuts. They're OK for high voltage stuff but most
alarm installers avoid them. As to twist and tape connections, these should
also be soldered.
> I guess the whole joining thing boils down to who is doing it.
> I've seen some solder and shrink-wrap splices come apart- ?
If it's soldered properly, only a soldering iron will make it come apart.
You probably came across work done by someone totally unfamiliar with a
soldering gun.
> Properly sized wire-nut? If put on by someone that cares I
> imagine this would last forever- I just don't trust wire-nuts,
Agreed.
> I would still (and have) tape over the wire-nut connection.
Or better still, not use them at all.
Regards,
Robert L Bass
==========================>
Bass Home Electronics
The Online DIY Alarm Store
http://www.BassHome.com
ICQ: 34679978
80 Bentwood Road
West Hartford, CT 06107
860-561-9542 voice
860-561-5210 fax
==========================>
Robert L Bass
wire gets soldered and taped.
Regards,
Robert L Bass
==========================>
Bass Home Electronics
The Online DIY Alarm Store
http://www.BassHome.com
ICQ: 34679978
80 Bentwood Road
West Hartford, CT 06107
860-561-9542 voice
860-561-5210 fax
==========================>
VSS DOUG wrote in message <19990608010232...@ng-fo1.aol.com>...
>Alarm wrote
>
>>I'm interested in feed back from the group as to their preferred
>>splicing methods
>
H.E.S. Electronics
with the NEC. "B" connectors are not included in the NEC. But we can use them
for low voltage burglar alarm applications.
<H>
Alarm wrote:
> To the group:
>
> I've been running into sloppy splices made with b connectors for
> commercial fire alarm work. Some twisted and others with the conductors
> parallel but all of the connection have some wire exposed. It appears that
> the installers couldn't squeeze all of the two 18 ga. wires into the b
> connector.
>
> I was thought to twist the conductors together then use a properly sized
> wire nut to secure the connection. If I ever tried to use the b connector
> method the senior installer would have had my head for it!
>
> I'm interested in feed back from the group as to their preferred
Kevin Link
systems..
Thomas Gerchak
It is my understanding that wire nuts must be used for all fire wiring.
Respectfully,
thomas
Jacob Ashbury wrote:
>
> 18 ga.- (solid core) barely held by beanies (b-connectors). I strip the
> jacket a little less than 1/2", twist the wire and 'screw' the beanie on
> it. I then crimp the beanie from end to end. Finally I pull the wires
> firmly just to make sure the connection is secure. I make sure no bare wire
> is visible before squeezing the beanie.
> What's the difference in this and a wire-nut? I think a wire-nut is less
> secure. I've seen lots of twists with tape that are very secure.
> I guess the whole joining thing boils down to who is doing it. I've seen
> some solder and shrink-wrap splices come apart- ?
> Properly sized wire-nut? If put on by someone that cares I imagine this
> would last forever- I just don't trust wire-nuts, I would still (and have)
> tape over the wire-nut connection.
> Alarm wrote in message <92881018...@news.remarQ.com>...
Doug Winslow
>
> To the group:
>
> I've been running into sloppy splices made with b connectors for
> commercial fire alarm work. Some twisted and others with the conductors
> parallel but all of the connection have some wire exposed. It appears that
> the installers couldn't squeeze all of the two 18 ga. wires into the b
> connector.
>
> I was thought to twist the conductors together then use a properly sized
> wire nut to secure the connection. If I ever tried to use the b connector
> method the senior installer would have had my head for it!
According to the NEC no smaller than 18 guage wire is to be used (as you
indicated)(760-54d). When I took the primer Nicet course I remember the
"teacher" mentioning that b connectors can't be used because they aren't
UL rated and if any are they aren't rated for 18 guage wire. I know it's
mentioned in the NEC but I can't find where now. I believe Scotch-Loks
(sp?) are UL rated. I prefer wire nuts since I troubleshoot all the
time.
Doug
mathieu...@bedison.com
in fire alarm work. This is code in Rhode Island and seems to work out
well for install's and trouble shooting.. this way you never have 2
wires on the same term..
Mathieu
In article <3761C09B...@min.net>,
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Jacob Ashbury
1.) using the strip 'prior' to the board?
2.) a code requirement that fire or other zone wiring be kept segregated?
Thanks-
mathieu...@bedison.com wrote in message <7ko1l0$893$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...