Winterstone?
Jim Ek
interesting. Has anyone had any experience with the product?
Thanks,
Jim Ek
Bloomington, IN
Gary Waller
need some in Indiana :-).?
Battersby
> I've seen mention of a sculpting medium called Winterstone? Looks very
> interesting. Has anyone had any experience with the product?
Jim, I've experimented with winterstone a little. I like it. Do you have any
specific questions??
--
T. M. Battersby, stuccoist.
http://www.battersbyornamental.com
tbatt...@satx.rr.com
Fred Mason
I've got a bag and a project designed for it. Just neding time.
Fred
"Jim Ek" <JIM...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:8P%S5.4589$2s1.3...@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Jim Ek
(plastina), but want something that offers some more permanence, without
getting into casting. The only type of plastina I've used is the type
typical of finding in a craft store... sulphur free, easy to work. However
hard to put in much detail. Do recognize there are many types of clay
including various kinds of plastina.
Want something that I can direct sculpt on an armature. Since it will be a
case of maybe only getting to it once a week or so, think that using an
airdry clay might have quite a bit of difficulty with cracking etc.
Can winterstone when it is mixed and applied, able to accept and hold fine
detail, or is it necessary to let it dry for awhile before the detail can be
put in? When it has dried is it still carvable, or is it just polishable?
Is winterstone polishable?
Do you know if there is some other type of material (other then paper mache,
magic sculp, or winterstone) that is mixable and moldable. Seems like there
should be something that could be done with plaster of paris or something.
Cheap for the beginner but capable of producing nice results initially
without having to mess with the molding aspect.
Thanks,
Jim Ek
"Battersby" <tbatt...@satx.rr.com> wrote in message
news:DirT5.15568$S55.2...@typhoon.austin.rr.com...
> Jim Ek wrote
> > I've seen mention of a sculpting medium called Winterstone? Looks very
> > interesting. Has anyone had any experience with the product?
>
> Jim, I've experimented with winterstone a little. I like it. Do you have
any
> specific questions??
>
> --
> T. M. Battersby, stuccoist.
> http://www.battersbyornamental.com
> tbatt...@satx.rr.com
>
Battersby
> I want to try doing some sculpting, am inexperienced. Have used clay
> (plastina), but want something that offers some more permanence, without
> getting into casting.
Find out who distributes Winterstone in your area Jim. Ask them for a sample
of each type, and try it out. Keep notes. Be sure to post back here with
your findings.
Have a look at the link to the Winterstone website provided by Fred.
> The only type of plastina I've used is the type
> typical of finding in a craft store... sulphur free, easy to work.
However
> hard to put in much detail. Do recognize there are many types of clay
> including various kinds of plastina.
If you are having trouble putting detail into clay, I think you have just
used the wrong clay. Chavant Clay has a sample kit including 1/4 pound
samples of 17 different clays. I think it's about ten dollars.
> Want something that I can direct sculpt on an armature. Since it will be
a
> case of maybe only getting to it once a week or so, think that using an
> airdry clay might have quite a bit of difficulty with cracking etc.
You can do this with WS, but, I think the once a week technique of adding to
your work would present some difficulties for a beginner.
> Can winterstone when it is mixed and applied, able to accept and hold fine
> detail, or is it necessary to let it dry for awhile before the detail can
be
> put in?
Yes, but this depends on your definition of fine detail. WS has a plastic
transition period initially of about one hour, moving from a paste to a
solid state. You can work it with your fingers for about the first hour,
then for the next two or three hours it cuts easily. Then it gets harder and
harder for the next few days.
> When it has dried is it still carvable,
Yes, with the right tools.
> Is winterstone polishable?
I haven't tried any polishing.
> Do you know if there is some other type of material (other then paper
mache,
> magic sculp, or winterstone) that is mixable and moldable. Seems like
there
> should be something that could be done with plaster of paris or something.
> Cheap for the beginner but capable of producing nice results initially
Try Hydrocal White, Puritan Pottery, or Moulding Plaster. These three tool
well.
A description of what you are wanting to sculpt would help.
> without having to mess with the molding aspect.
Messing with the "molding aspect" will expand your choices for modeling
mediums, after you gain some experience.
I really don't think WS is the best choice for a beginner, but you should
try out a sample. I didn't find it to work "as easily as clay", as
advertised, but I do agree that it "sets as hard as stone".
Are there any classes in your area Jim??
Good luck with your project,
Battersby.
--
T. M. Battersby, stuccoist.
http://www.battersbyornamental.com
tbatt...@satx.rr.com
> Thanks,
> Jim Ek
> > Jim Ek wrote
> > > I've seen mention of a sculpting medium called Winterstone? Looks
very
> > > interesting. Has anyone had any experience with the product?
> "Battersby" wrote
> > Jim, I've experimented with winterstone a little. I like it. Do you have
> > specific questions??
Dan Spector
heavily armatured?
--
Dan <arch...@earthlink.net>
http://www.archicast.com
----------
In article <XYuT5.3340$eU.2...@bgtnsc07-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, "Fred
Mason" <stones...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
Battersby
> What does this stuff cost?
A volume (20 cu in per pound) the size of a 5 gallon bucket will cost about
$130 ($2 per pound), out of Dallas (plus shipping).
Bb.
--
T. M. Battersby, stuccoist.
http://www.battersbyornamental.com
tbatt...@satx.rr.com
> It looks great. I assume Winter's sculptures are
> heavily armatured?
> --
> Dan <arch...@earthlink.net>
> http://www.archicast.com
Jim Ek
> Find out who distributes Winterstone in your area Jim. Ask them for a
sample
> of each type, and try it out. Keep notes. Be sure to post back here with
> your findings.
I am located in the Bloomington, IN area....home of Indiana University.
There is one "ART" store in town and then a couple of craft stores. The
only sculpture materials they sell are plastina, air dry clays, and plaster
of paris. I found out about Winterstone by going to the "Compleat
Scutpture" website.
> If you are having trouble putting detail into clay, I think you have just
> used the wrong clay. Chavant Clay has a sample kit including 1/4 pound
> samples of 17 different clays. I think it's about ten dollars.
Thank you for the tip. I think I will call a web based art supply and see
if they carry it. If so I will order it.
>
> A description of what you are wanting to sculpt would help.
Like to keep all options open to save face. When woodcarving and people ask
what I am carving say either ______or a toothpick.
> > without having to mess with the molding aspect.
>
> Messing with the "molding aspect" will expand your choices for modeling
> mediums, after you gain some experience.
When I think of moulding. I start thinking of how does someone successfully
make a bicycle wheel ..with spokes..... mould.
>
> I really don't think WS is the best choice for a beginner, but you should
> try out a sample. I didn't find it to work "as easily as clay", as
> advertised, but I do agree that it "sets as hard as stone".
> Are there any classes in your area Jim??
Not that I am aware of. Being a university town, we are fairly progressive.
We have an art center that had classes on various artistic mediums, but the
art center got severely financially overstretched by buying an old movie
house that was going to be demolished. Has put the Art Center in severe
financial bind at this time. No classes are being held.
The art school at the University would probably need more time then I would
feel comfortable giving.
>
> Good luck with your project,
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Have a great day!
Jim Ek
Dan Spector
--
----------
In article <s0kU5.7108$FT.4...@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, "Jim Ek"
<JIM...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> Like to keep all options open to save face. When woodcarving and people ask
> what I am carving say either ______or a toothpick.
When somebody asks what you are carving, you just say "The wood will tell me
what it wants to become." Then say It's the process, not the product.
atcho...@my-deja.com
day a week to work, I suggest that you work with
plaster. Try to get the Hydrocal which is
stronger than plaster of Paris. Prepare plaster
following directions carefully, fill a milk
carton with it, let set. Then you can carve it.
You can also finish it in a number of different
ways so it won't look like plaster.
Winterstone is not a carving medium, It is
designed for the building up process. I started
to experiment with it a few weeks ago and am
experiencing difficulties at the final stage.
By the way, does anyone experienced with
WINTERSTONE can advise me on how to get an even
smooth last coat ? It seems that I always end up
with a lot of holes, gaps or flaking off spots
when I file and sand at the end ???
Thanks for any feedback.
Martine
>
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
atcho...@my-deja.com
news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
"Jim Ek" <JIM...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
atcho...@my-deja.com
news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
"Jim Ek" <JIM...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
Andrew Werby
atcho...@my-deja.com wrote in message <90ejoh$net$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...
>In article <1IZT5.4862$eU.317976@bgtnsc07-
>news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> "Jim Ek" <JIM...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>>
>> Can winterstone when it is mixed and applied,
>able to accept and hold fine
>> detail, or is it necessary to let it dry for
>awhile before the detail can be
>> put in? When it has dried is it still
>carvable, or is it just polishable?
>> Is winterstone polishable?
[Winterstone (and any concrete-based product) has a period during which it
can be carved fairly easily. This is usually from a few hours after mixing
until sometime the next day. It shouldn't be "dried", by the way- this will
make it weak and crumbly. Instead, wrap it in damp toweling, and wrap that
in plastic, and leave it that way for at least a week. This is called
"curing", and is essential if the concrete is to attain its full strength.
I've never tried polishing Winterstone, but I've heard it's possible (to
some extent). ]
>> >Jim, if you are a beginner and only have one
>day a week to work, I suggest that you work with
>plaster. Try to get the Hydrocal which is
>stronger than plaster of Paris. Prepare plaster
>following directions carefully, fill a milk
>carton with it, let set. Then you can carve it.
[I wouldn't recommend Hydrocal for this- it's too hard. Even regular casting
plaster is usually tempered with vermiculite to ease carving. But plaster
can be built up on a wire and screen armature during the few moments in its
setting curve when it attains plasticity, then carved back as it hardens.
It's best to mix all the plaster in a single batch, but if you need to add
more, make sure to soak the underlying plaster before adding fresh- this way
the old stuff won't suck all the water out of the new stuff before it has a
chance to set. See the FAQ on my site for more plaster tips.]
>You can also finish it in a number of different
>ways so it won't look like plaster.
>Winterstone is not a carving medium, It is
>designed for the building up process. I started
>to experiment with it a few weeks ago and am
>experiencing difficulties at the final stage.
>By the way, does anyone experienced with
>WINTERSTONE can advise me on how to get an even
>smooth last coat ? It seems that I always end up
>with a lot of holes, gaps or flaking off spots
>when I file and sand at the end ???
>Thanks for any feedback.
>Martine
[It sounds like you aren't getting very good adhesion between the layers.
Try the soaking trick I advised for the plaster (above), mix that last coat
a bit thinner, and either smooth it out when it's still wet, or let it all
cure together before attempting to grind on it.]
Andrew Werby
http://unitedartworks.com
Donaldo3211
>>designed for the building up process
Odd, I have both cast and built up Winterstone, but used the different formulas
available from Winterstone.
http://www.winterstone.com
The site shows the two methods.
Regards, Don
atcho...@my-deja.com
"Andrew Werby" <and...@computersculpture.com> wrote:
>
> atcho...@my-deja.com wrote in message
<90ejoh$net$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...
> >In article <1IZT5.4862$eU.317976@bgtnsc07-
> >news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> > "Jim Ek" <JIM...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> >>
> >able to accept and hold fine
> >> detail, or is it necessary to let it dry for
> >awhile before the detail can be
> >> put in? When it has dried is it still
> >carvable, or is it just polishable?
> >> Is winterstone polishable?
>
which it
> can be carved fairly easily. This is usually from a few hours after
mixing
> until sometime the next day. It shouldn't be "dried", by the way-
this will
> make it weak and crumbly. Instead, wrap it in damp toweling, and wrap
that
> in plastic, and leave it that way for at least a week. This is called
> "curing", and is essential if the concrete is to attain its full
strength.
> I've never tried polishing Winterstone, but I've heard it's possible
(to
> some extent). ]
> >>
> >day a week to work, I suggest that you work with
> >plaster. Try to get the Hydrocal which is
> >stronger than plaster of Paris. Prepare plaster
> >following directions carefully, fill a milk
> >carton with it, let set. Then you can carve it.
>
> [I wouldn't recommend Hydrocal for this- it's too hard. Even regular
casting
> plaster is usually tempered with vermiculite to ease carving. But
plaster
> can be built up on a wire and screen armature during the few moments
in its
> setting curve when it attains plasticity, then carved back as it
hardens.
> It's best to mix all the plaster in a single batch, but if you need
to add
> more, make sure to soak the underlying plaster before adding fresh-
this way
> the old stuff won't suck all the water out of the new stuff before it
has a
> chance to set. See the FAQ on my site for more plaster tips.]
>
> >You can also finish it in a number of different
> >ways so it won't look like plaster.
> >to experiment with it a few weeks ago and am
> >experiencing difficulties at the final stage.
> >By the way, does anyone experienced with
> >WINTERSTONE can advise me on how to get an even
> >smooth last coat ? It seems that I always end up
> >with a lot of holes, gaps or flaking off spots
> >when I file and sand at the end ???
> >Thanks for any feedback.
> >Martine
>
> [It sounds like you aren't getting very good adhesion between the
layers.
> Try the soaking trick I advised for the plaster (above), mix that
last coat
> a bit thinner, and either smooth it out when it's still wet, or let
it all
> cure together before attempting to grind on it.]
>
> Andrew Werby
> http://unitedartworks.com
>
often. And I am still experimenting with Winterstone which seems to be
tricky and pretty timeconsuming. I don't know what are the mineral
fillers used in its composition. It does not quite behave like plaster
nor like concrete. I will keep trying though, and appreciate any
feedback.
Thanks,
Martine. ("atcho...@my-deja.com)
bru...@spacestar.net
Here are a couple of other choices, both from Aves.
(www.avesstudio.com). One is Apoxie Sculpt - similar in funtion to
Magic Sculp but way better. No cracking when drying (3 hour open
working time), and non-shrinking, non-toxic, waterproof, extremely
adhesive if desired, formable before setup and toolable after setup.
Another great choice is a new product, very tough and unique, it's
called Aves ClayShay. It feels like clay, sets like mache. About an
hour to 90 minute set time. Even has a sort of double-set process. After
the initial set, it can be "broken" and reformed to set again. It's a
powder that is mixed with water. Non-shrinking, really strong stuff.
Light brown in color, it's paintable of course.
Either way, I think you'll love the results. Good luck and have fun.
Chuck
In article <1IZT5.4862$eU.3...@bgtnsc07-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,