Yanmar 15 hp difficulty starting.
DHart1307
One guy came along and says "Itg is starved for fuel, work the accelator about
10 times. (didn't Work)
Another guy comes along and says " I think your valves are sticking need a
valve job.
Finally anotlher guy says sounds like your running on one cylinder. It is
probably your fuel injection to that olther cylinder. So he took a wrench and
proceeds to unhook one of the fuel injectors. The motor stopped. So it seems
the other fuel injector is stopped up. reccomend taking them both and having
them rebuilt. In the process of doing that now .
Has anybody else had this problem. Does sthat seem reasonable. After the motor
starts and runs for awhile have no problem starting it.
Thanks for any feed back
Dhart
Michael
times from full close to full open and back. Then put it back in neutral and
set the throttle for cold start and press the start button. It's like
priming when you pump the footfeed on a car. I had that problem on my T-9
until the dealer gave me that little tip.
"DHart1307" <dhar...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010330152358...@ng-ff1.aol.com...
Josh Assing
>I have to crank for about 10 minutes but it finally starts.
my 2qm15 takes a few minutes at WOT to start; then a flume of smoke; then it
runs nicely; I've been told by a few people "injectors" But they're pricey so I
live with it...
Let us know how the rebuild goes; if it clears up your problem, I'll have mine
done.
You might want to check your fuel filter & water seperator too; to make sure
they're not plugged up. Low pressure could cause it to appear that an injector
is plugged.
Josh Assing
"Starter motor rotates, but engine fails to start"
1) Fuel not injected or injection faulty
1) Prime and bleed air from fuel lines
2) Inject fuel thru injection valvle and replace needle if required.
3) Clean fuel filter
4) Check operation of fuel pump, plunger, plunger spring, and delivery valve,
and replace if required.
5) The remote control system or governor is faulty, so check if fuel is cut
off, and adjust if required.
2) Fuel injection timing incorrect
1) Check if alighmnent mark of timing gear is aligned
3) Compression pressure low
1) Lap valves when air tightness of intake and exhaust valvue is poor
2) Replace cylinder head packing if gas is leaking (I assume they mean fuel;
not gas)
3) Clean or replace piston rings when sticking occurs
4) Readjust timing when intake and exhaust valve closing is considerably slow
4) Drop in compression ratio
1) Replace piston pin bearking and crank pin bearin if worn
2) Replace piston rings if worn
EM
"Michael" <sef...@worldfront.com> wrote in message
news:3ac5b...@news4.newsfeeds.com...
> Put it in gear, either forward or reverse, pump the throttle about three
> times from full close to full open and back. Then put it back in neutral
and
> set the throttle for cold start and press the start button. It's like
> priming when you pump the footfeed on a car.
<snip>
You better dump your dealer! This is the most idiotic diesel related advice
I have ever heard. You are dealing with a DIESEL, not a downdraft gas
engine. I'm a Yanmar servicing dealer for 20 years and I can't believe I
read this.
1. Your shift has NO effect on the fuel or starting system whats so ever.
2. The throttle only moves a fuel rack (like a gear) in the injection pump
to meter the fuel as it flows
under HIGH pressure to the injector. I DOES NOT PRIME OR PUMP IN ANY WAY! If
you have hard starting, you could move the throttle a little forward, just
above idle, so when the engine starts it will be easier to keep it running.
And yes, it looks like you are having injector problems at least. The fellow
that opened the injector line did the right think to determine if that is
the case. If you want to keep your engine a while longer, do NOT start the
engine with WOT like another reader does. Racing the engine without proper
lubrication could seize the motor
em
Hosheen
>
> "Michael" <sef...@worldfront.com> wrote in message
> news:3ac5b...@news4.newsfeeds.com...
> > Put it in gear, either forward or reverse, pump the throttle about three
> > times from full close to full open and back. Then put it back in neutral
> and
> > set the throttle for cold start and press the start button. It's like
> > priming when you pump the footfeed on a car.
> <snip>
>
> You better dump your dealer! This is the most idiotic diesel related advice
> I have ever heard. You are dealing with a DIESEL, not a downdraft gas
> engine. I'm a Yanmar servicing dealer for 20 years and I can't believe I
> read this.
>
> 1. Your shift has NO effect on the fuel or starting system whats so ever.
> 2. The throttle only moves a fuel rack (like a gear) in the injection pump
> to meter the fuel as it flows
> under HIGH pressure to the injector. I DOES NOT PRIME OR PUMP IN ANY WAY! If
> you have hard starting, you could move the throttle a little forward, just
> above idle, so when the engine starts it will be easier to keep it running.
>
> And yes, it looks like you are having injector problems at least. The fellow
> that opened the injector line did the right think to determine if that is
> the case. If you want to keep your engine a while longer, do NOT start the
> engine with WOT like another reader does. Racing the engine without proper
> lubrication could seize the motor
At last! Someone that seems to know something. I have a Yanmar 1GM
that will not cold start unless the throttle is at the wide open
position. It runs slowly for a few seconds, then begins to speed up. I
then start to retard the throttle to keep RPMs around 1100 or so. After
it is warm, it starts very easily on part throttle, but if it is at all
cold, no go.
I also had someone tell me that putting some automatic transmission
fluid in the fuel would be "good for the injectors" and that truckers
had been doing this for years. Not being a trucker or knowing any
truckers, I doubted this and so have not tried it. Have you ever heard
of this?
Thanks a bunch,
JES
EM
As a rule I don't give advice on how to fix a diesel to non-professionals. A
diesel can "bite" or kill you give the right (wrong) circumstances.
Maybe I was a little blunt with the previous post, but I was amazed reading
this and in the process, forgot to proof read.
I'm sure he meant well, but one should offer advice only when he/she is sure
of the subject.
First off, do NOT add anything to the fuel. The only exception are in case
of a long layover, a good quality fuel conditioner and in case of poor fuel
quality, a cetane enhancer. I either case use them sparingly.
As for your starting problem I suspect it is air in the fuel and/or a
weak/defective fuel lift pump. Loosen the bleed screw (use a Philips head
screw driver or 10 mm wrench) by the Yanmar fuel filter first. Use the pump
lever to pump the fuel until you get a clear flow. Remember, the pump lever
only pumps on last 1/8 of the arch. Repeat by the injection pump. Assuming
the injector is good, this should start the engine in a reasonable time
(after clean fuel got through the injector). If the problem reoccurs the
next day you start your engine , you have a fuel leak or are sucking air.
Pressure leaks are easy to find, sucking leaks is more difficult. Try
tightening all the fittings, just don't over do it. Also, check the draw
tube, they have the tendency to clog.
Hope this helps.
Egmont
www.beyacht.com
dale stevens
sparingly so 15 gallons lasts me about 3 years. I get a bad problem with algae
if I don't use Bio-Con or something similar. Is this harmful?
Dale
EM
The reason algae grow is because of water in the tank from bad fuel or
condensation. That's why it is imported to keep the tank toped off. If the
fuel gets to old, it is wiser to drain the tank, dispose of it properly and
start fresh.
Egmont
www.beyacht.com
"dale stevens" <dste...@dmv.com> wrote in message
news:3AC7866B...@dmv.com...
Garkast
engine, contact some proffesional.
One problem that haven't been suggested here but might be the problem is the
compression in the cylinder.
As a diesel start burning fuel by heat generated by the compression of air in
the cylinder bad compression causes starting problems, thats why usually the
motor need a lot of starting help and also a little open throttle to induce a
better fuel mix (fatter) for esear starting.
Check out if you can see the exhaust gases becoming blue when from full/half
throttle close the throttle rapidly down to zero. If the engine have a tendency
to make some attemt to ignitions or the exhaust smoke is blue, your piston
rings are finnish and you make a compression test, then talk to some one who
knows diesel to se what action is to be taken
Sten
Eric W Stumm
countless hours running and repairing Agricultural versions of the same
thing and most common is either Fuel injectors are clogged, or deppending on
the age of the motor and the number of hours it has what is the commpression
like?
Also assuming it is a Deisel how are the glow plugs working?
Michael <sef...@worldfront.com> wrote in message
news:3ac5b...@news4.newsfeeds.com...
Eric W Stumm
injecors of both engins , it cleans the jets in both systems of varnish and
helps particulates that got thru the fuel filter to pass. The best type of
ATF to use is Dextron III same shit you are putting in the gear box of your
chevy four wheel drive
Eric
Hosheen <hos...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3AC69DD1...@earthlink.net...
EM
First off, only some later model Yanmar's (3cyl. and above, marinized
industrials) use glow plugs. The early model engine never had or needed
them. It is a great selling point, compared to others on the market.
As for your ATF suggestion, it may work as quick fix and if the engine
finally gives up, you just walk away, if it is industrial. Now, try to do
the same if your engine quits, on the Ocean, in a storm when your life
depends on a running engine.
NEVER, on the water, go for the quick fix, do it right, your family will
thank you.
Egmont
www.beyacht.com
"Eric W Stumm" <est...@uswest.net> wrote in message
news:8jWy6.1281$UT4.8...@news.uswest.net...
JAMES FANETTE JR.
need some form of preheat , marine or industrial. that is why most come with
some form of warm up device. it maybe a block heater or glow plugs. it
doesn't take much but a diesel need warm air at start or a damn good set of
batteries & starter. After the first start if all is good it will start
faster than you can hit and release the starter. If that is not true then
start to look at the injectors or the pump. Then compression. We use to use
an old air compressor that was hard to start when it was 98* because the
starting system was weak. When the temp. got down to 32* the only way to
start it was to take paper towels and delaminate them, then stuff the intake
and light them with a match after the towels burned up you could hit the
starter and go to work. If you used either you had to keep giving it a
little at a time until it took off on it's own. Too much either and you
broke it. So if you have starting problems mainly at first startup consider
checking your glow plugs if you do not have glow plugs check to see if your
starting system is up to the task of spinning the engine fast enough long
enough to warm itself up. Also a very small leak in the fuel system can
cause some of the same symptoms
MCHART7221
EM
Wide Open Throttle
em
"MCHART7221" <mchar...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010407223046...@ng-fy1.aol.com...
> What is W.O.T
MCHART7221
It woulkd have cost 35 dollars for each injector to ber rebuilt. We decided to
replace with new ones at 82 each. Before we made that decision we check ed to
be sure the pump was working A-OK
Replkaced the injectors. Motor starts immediately. Still have a vibration but
have been told the valves neeed adjusted. That will come later. thanks again
