Snipe standing rigging

[Tim Harris]

Does anyone have advice on how tight the forestay and shrouds should be on
my Snipe? I know this is a vague question but I just bought a '67 Snipe
with a wooden main mast. I have helped sail a 35 ft keelboat a few times,
but that is the extent of my sailing experience.

Well, anyway, I bought this old Snipe class boat (dingy ?), and I would like
to try it out, but I don't know how tight the forestay and shrouds should
be. I have them attached as far as they will go, but there is still a lot
of "play" in them. I would say the forestay cable "wobbles" from the
straight axis about 5 inches, and the shrouds about 2 1/2 inches. So the
mast has some "wobble" there.

Should I shorted the cable so it is tauter?

Thanks,
Tim

[John R Weiss]

Don't cut that wire!

Snipes have what is occasionally called "spaghetti" rigging, because there
is quite a bit of slack in the shrouds. Later boats have all kinds of
"strings" attached -- fore pullers, aft pullers, barber haulers, jib tack
adjusters -- to allow the crew to tune dynamically.

When the jib is raised, the jib luff should take virtually all the tension
(2/3 or more) off the forestay when going upwind. If you have a jib tack
adjustment, it can be slacked off downwind.

I don't recall the measurements (it's been about 30 years since I've sailed
one), but you may be able to find hints at http://www.snipe.org/ or
http://www.scirauk.freeserve.co.uk/.
--
John Weiss
Seattle, WA
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[tak]

The snipe website is a good resource. There is also a mailing list that you
can join from the website. The mailing list is a great place to ask
questions. I am not sure about the wooden masts as far as shroud tension.
The jib should have an internal wire that tensions the entire rig when
tightened. The forestay just keeps the mast in the boat when the jib isn't
raised. (for cruising)

Snipes are great boats.
Good luck with yours,
Tak

--
he who laughs last took the longest to get the joke.
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