I have been looking for a transmission temperature gauge for my van and
finally found what I wanted. Sears has a remote cooking thermometer
that will work great. It is a 32-392 degree F or 0-200 C.
It has only a 44 inch lead but I spliced a five foot length of two
conductor with no problems. The size is acceptable, uses a AA battery,
has an adjustable alarm, and looks good. Pyrex Digital probe
thermometer #16484. $ 14.99
John
What did you attach the probe to John? This sounds like a
good idea.
HD in NY
What did you attach the probe to John? This sounds like a good idea.
HD in NY
++++++++++++++++
HD
I used cable ties to clamp it to a metal part of the transmission pipe
going to the radiator cooler. I used a piece of pipe insulation to
cover and seal the connection section.
John
snipped
> I used cable ties to clamp it to a metal part of the transmission pipe
> going to the radiator cooler. I used a piece of pipe insulation to
> cover and seal the connection section.
>
> John
>
Thanks.
Mike F
"john williamson" <john...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:11154-3FC...@storefull-2173.public.lawson.webtv.net...
No but then you have a real temperature gauge that does what it was designed
for instead of a cheap Walt Disney setup that may or maynot be giving the real
temp. You use Mickey Mouse to help save a $2000. transmission?
DSteiner
case
the case, minus a few cans!
And, what would you call a "real" temp gauge? Not arguing
about this, just curious. From what I've read on the cooking
thermometer, the digital part works good but the probe is
limited by a maximum temp of 395 degrees. Seems like most
temperature gauges are more an indicator of elevated
temperatures and serve as a warning. One of these on a
vehicle with no temperature gauge from the factory, would
work pretty well as a substitute for the "real" thing. Since
a temperature of 395 degrees spells a fried transmission
anyway, the cheap cooking gauge would be an inexpensive
substitute for a real gauge designed for an expensive
transmission. Of course you're right, it would be worthless.
It probably wouldn't even read anything would it? There even
is one with two probes. You could tape one to each of the
lines and see what the differential is.
Moral is, something is better than nothing. A real
transmission temperature gauge is a lot more expensive than
$15. A good one would need to the probe to be installed in
the pan. Maybe with the new trucks, you can tap into the
readout for the computer which monitors all the systems. How
much does that gauge cost? Or, you could go back to the
dealer and have the factory gauge installed. How much would
that cost, if it was available?
Look, Mike comes up with a negative on the guys idea and
mentions how cheap the real thing is. I Googled a gauge and
came up with zilch. I went to JC Whitney's site and
searched, nada. I did find a digital readout to replace the
factory gauge, cost $35. So, where do we come up with the
inexpensive gauge?
HD in NY
Mike F
"HDinNY" <er...@error.com> wrote >
No but then you have a real temperature gauge that does what it was
designed for instead of a cheap Walt Disney setup that may or maynot be
giving the real temp. You use Mickey Mouse to help save a $2000.
transmission? DSteiner
++++++++++++++++++
John wrote:
In life before retirement I was a "Building Facility Controls
Contractor", so I should know something about controls.
Apparently you are familiar with the controls industry, particular this
control and could tell me why it is a "Walt Disney Setup"?
I suspect some that paid the big bucks for a thermometer that is "Real
Temperature, Designed, giving the Real Temperature" may be sore to hear
about.................................... this "$15.00 well built,
accurate (I checked calibration), good looking, small and easy to
mount, with adjustable high limit alarm, uses AA battery thermometer.
Why did I bother?
John
John wrote:
Why does it have to hook up to 12 volts, (for starters), the one I used
has a AA battery that will most likely last a couple of years. The
gauge is easily mounted on the dash. It uses a two conductor for the
lead "probe to gauge" not a "vapor capillary". The probe is clamped to
a piece of the metal tubing carrying the transmission fluid to the
cooler and insulated. Believe me, that is as good or better than
immersion in the transmission IMO, and open to a lot less problems. Or
a "well" in the fluid line.
John
John wrote:
Barrie
The probe is about 6 to 7 inches long, clamp it to a metal section of
the transmission tube that carries the fluid to the cooler, I used cable
ties. Then strap a piece of insulation over the probe and tube, I used
regular 1" thick piping insulation. You want the section completely
insulated and sealed.
The lead from the probe to the gauge is 44", if you need longer, it can
be lengthened by splicing a "two conductor", if you are comfortable
doing so.
John
++++++++++++++++
John wrote
Barrie
That is the line carrying the transmission fluid to the cooler , not the
line carrying the fluid from the cooler to the transmission.
Some more on transmission gauge and changing fluid.
The pan is the reservoir for the fluid, the filter picks up the fluid
from the bottom of the pan and sends it through the transmission. This
fluid in the pan is the fluid that has been through the cooler so this
temperature is of of less concern to me than the fluid that has done the
work and coming out of the transmission, this is the reason for
selecting the discharge line.
Also a few tips on changing transmission fluid that "works for me" to
make it a simple and easy operation.
I disconnect the line at the cooler and use a piece of clear flexible
tubing slipped over the fitting nut to direct the fluid into a
container. I start the engine and let it run till air is coming out,
then shut the engine off. About half of the fluid will be pumped out.
Then remove the pan, you will have only a small amount in the pan, so
you will not have a mess. Replace the filter, clean the pan, and what
I do is use a good quality gasket, clean pan very well, and apply a
gasket dressing and flange sealant on one side of the gasket and pan
flange, nothing on the transmission side. reinstall pan, torque bolts
and refill transmission fluid. I change the fluid after I drive some
again, I do not replace the gasket after doing the above the first time,
had no leaks in several changes. Almost as easy as changing oil.
FWIW and it works for me.
John
>The lead from the probe to the gauge is 44", if you need longer, it can
>be lengthened by splicing a "two conductor", if you are comfortable
>doing so.
John, if the guage uses voltage change from the probe to determine temperature,
you may need to recalibrate it when changing the lead length.
Ron
Mercedes, TX
Thanks John. I do believe I'll try the gauge. Since it has
an alarm, I could mount it anyplace under the dash. The
important point the detractors are forgetting is, once a
base temperature is found a change will show up on the
cooking gauge. If you can see the change and the rate of
change, half the battle is won. If the vehicle has an
onboard temp gauge, one doesn't need to add one. If there is
none installed, $15 is cheap insurance.
HD in NY
The red flag I see is potential inaccurate temperature readings using this
setup. Because of that, this gauge can give a false sense of security. It
would be interesting to compare this setup to a oil temp gauge that is in
the transmission. Maybe hook it up on a vehicle that already has a oil
gauge and compare the results?
Andy
--
For SPAM purposes, given email address it not valid. To respond to me
personally, use selzlera@*REMOVE*yahoo.com (Remember to delete the
'*remove*' portion of address.)
That's why I said establish a baseline. With that you could
see the rise in temperature and know when the fluid was
getting too hot.
HD in NY
George
The red flag I see is potential inaccurate temperature readings using
this setup. Because of that, this gauge can give a false sense of
security. It would be interesting to compare this setup to a oil temp
gauge that is in the transmission. Maybe hook it up on a vehicle that
already has a oil gauge and compare the results?
Andy
--
++++++++++++++++++++++++
John wrote:
The only place I know of that an after market sensor could be located in
the transmissions I have seen are in the Pan area. I covered that is
another post, the pan area contains fluid that has been through the
cooler, that temperature is not the one that is desirable, it is the
fluid on the discharge of the transmission. My setup will be much more
accurate than one sensing the pan fluid.
I am measuring that temperature with a thermometer that I have checked
the calibration (using a "Electro-Therm" Digital Thermometer Model SH66A
Manufactured by Cooper Instrument Company). I am also using a sensor
installation method that is widely used in the control industry.
For the other post, no the 5' extension did not affect calibration.
That's all folks
John
Lynn
The nylon ties will stretch and loosen from the heat. In order to get a good
reading you will want that probe as tight against the tubing as possible for
good heat transfer. I would suggest using small hose clamps along with some
thermal conductive paste between probe and tube. Thats the white stuff you
see gloped all over power transistors mounted on heat sinks. You should be
able to find it in any electronic parts store or Radio Shack.
And, what would you call a "real" temp gauge? Not arguing
about this, just curious. From what I've read on the cooking
thermometer, the digital part works good but the probe is
limited by a maximum temp of 395 degrees. Seems like most
temperature gauges are more an indicator of elevated
temperatures and serve as a warning. One of these on a
vehicle with no temperature gauge from the factory, would
work pretty well as a substitute for the "real" thing. Since
a temperature of 395 degrees spells a fried transmission
anyway, the cheap cooking gauge would be an inexpensive
substitute for a real gauge designed for an expensive
transmission. Of course you're right, it would be worthless.
It probably wouldn't even read anything would it? There even
is one with two probes. You could tape one to each of the
lines and see what the differential is.
Moral is, something is better than nothing. >>
True something is better than nothing. I'm not disagreeing. I've mickey
moused stuff most all my life but it usually ended up costing just as much.
Many local farmers are finding out the same thing right now. When I installed
mine I bought a sensor meant to be submersed in hot oil that went right in the
line leading from the transmission to cooler. In the cab I didn't install a
400degree gauge since redline is to be 245 degrees but rather a gauge made and
meant for the sensor it was connected to for the purpose it was designed for.
I like it! I don't need to fiddle with it like so much of my mickey mouse stuff
previously. As I get older the less I have to do the more I like it.
>>A real
transmission temperature gauge is a lot more expensive than
$15. >>
Agreed.
>>A good one would need to the probe to be installed in
the pan. >>
Oil breaks down at high temperatures so I put mine in the hottest place to
indicate the oil at it's hottest. I don't care what it is in the pan after
cooling. Max temp is what I'm concerned about.
>>HD in NY >>
DSteiner
>Something that it seems everyone overlooks is that, unless you have
>laboratory instrumentation that costs thousands of dollars, ALL gauges
>are inaccurate. They only give you a relative indication.
Although it is only one thing I am measuring, I like to see the
digital readout from the transmission. Obviously only available on
some transmissions, but it is highly accurate in one way - it is what
the transmission ECM is monitoring. On mine, if it hits 252, that's
when the system will de-rate, whether it is an accurate 252 or not.
--
Don Bradner
donb at arcatapet dot com
www.arcatapet.net
>
>The red flag I see is potential inaccurate temperature readings using this
>setup. Because of that, this gauge can give a false sense of security. It
>would be interesting to compare this setup to a oil temp gauge that is in
>the transmission. Maybe hook it up on a vehicle that already has a oil
>gauge and compare the results?
>
>Andy
Baseline is the 'key' word. Once you install the unit and presuming
the system is operatin within its specifications, you merely monitor
for a rapid and large change in temp. You watch temps that rise while
your are driving in a situation where you would expect the temp to
rise. Uphill or in Arizona deserts. Take note of those
characteristics and then watch for deviations when the temp reads
contrary to expected values under the circumstance.
You are not as concerned with actual temps as you are MUCH HIGHER THAN
EXPECTED.
unkadean