Buying a 70's motorhome: is Dodge a mistake?
Robert Munyer
indicate one from the mid-to-late 70's.
Dodge must have been king of the road back then, because about
90% of the ones I've seen for sale are built on a Dodge chassis.
Of course, Chrysler got out of the motorhome business about 18
years ago. Should I be concerned about this? Should I go out of
my way (and limit my selection) in order to get a chassis made by
Ford or GM? Is it easy to get parts for Fords and GMs, but hard
(or impossible or expensive) to get them for Dodges?
Another question applies to the engine. I understand Chrysler is
still making the 318 and 360 cubic inch V8's, but not the 440.
If I do get a Dodge, should I rule out anything with a 440? Or
are the engine parts still easy to get and reasonably priced?
The same question applies to the coach itself. Should I look for
one made by a company that is still in business? Or have
appliances and furniture and body panels changed so much since
then that nothing would be compatible, even with a brand name
like Winnebago or Allegro that is still in production?
And finally: does anyone know when motorhome engines started
being made with hardened exhaust valve seats, so they could run
on unleaded gas without excessive valve seat erosion?
Thanks in advance,
-- Robert Munyer <mun...@mcs.net>
P. S. I expect most of my trips to be only a few hundred miles,
with a stay of one month or more at the other end -- so I will be
using the living space much more than the engine (if that makes
any difference). Of course, I would want to do a 5,000 mile
round trip once or twice, to "Discover America" and all that.
wi...@epix.net
On 4 Mar 1996, Robert Munyer wrote:
> Of course, Chrysler got out of the motorhome business about 18
> years ago. Should I be concerned about this? Should I go out of
> my way (and limit my selection) in order to get a chassis made by
> Ford or GM? Is it easy to get parts for Fords and GMs, but hard
> (or impossible or expensive) to get them for Dodges?
I do not personally like Dodges of that vintage, but it is mainly a
personal bias. Facts: the old ballast resister bugaboo will strand you
once in a while, and they were not the smartest crowd around in picking
carburetors and brakes. But parts are NOT hard to find, and the old
crocks will run many a mile for the buck.
> Another question applies to the engine. I understand Chrysler is
> still making the 318 and 360 cubic inch V8's, but not the 440.
> If I do get a Dodge, should I rule out anything with a 440? Or
> are the engine parts still easy to get and reasonably priced?
Personally I like the 440 much better than the 360, and parts are not a
problem. Some will say otherwise, but the 318 is plenty strong for the
smaller coaches, say under 10,000#.
> The same question applies to the coach itself. Should I look for
> one made by a company that is still in business? Or have
> appliances and furniture and body panels changed so much since
> then that nothing would be compatible, even with a brand name
> like Winnebago or Allegro that is still in production?
Once a vehicle is over 10 years old, you cannot be sure of finding parts
on hand for stuff like doors and windows. Plan on improvising, regardless
of brand name. Don't count heavily on interchangeability of appliances.
Water pumps and water heaters are kinda standard, but there is a lot of
variety in most applicances. Be MOST concerned about hidden rotted wood
frames or flooring, and sagging frames.
> And finally: does anyone know when motorhome engines started
> being made with hardened exhaust valve seats, so they could run
> on unleaded gas without excessive valve seat erosion?
I don't remember when they changed, but I think the valve seat erosion
problem is significantly overblown. It is simply not a huge deal - and if
you are convinced otherwise, I think there are cheap gasoline additives to
eliminate the concern entirely.
ANY old crock made in the '70's is going to be a candidate for
maintenance items at a fairly serious level: flexible brake hoses, all
belts and engine fluids hoses, radiator, etc. If you can't afford a
thorough going-over before you start out, you SURELY can't afford to
break down in the middle of Nevada or equal.
wi...@epix.net - KD3XR - W F Sill, Tunkhannock, PA
jac vinson
I can be of a lot of help with this for you:
I currently own (it's FOR SALE :-)) a 1977 Executive 29' with a dodge 440
engine. I bought it 4 years ago, This is my findings for your info.
The engine is one of the most reliable around. The only common problem is
that the exhaust gaskets tend to develope leaks pretty often. There is a
one time cure for this: have custom exhaust headers made, they are available
from most of the bigger RV shops as bolt on items but a little $$$. I've only
have to have gaskets replaced once, (and retorqued once). I had a radiator
go out 2 years ago and due to the age, the shop said they didn't recommend
fixing, I replaced it with a new one, and it was easy to find, only took a
couple of calls here locally. The radiator led to an overheating problem
(same trip) the also madated a valve job. I had to replace the heads and had
quite a time finding a source but due to the number of these beasts produced
it makes it just a matter of patience to find any part, including heads.
All of the electronics are over the counter at any auto parts store. I'm
only selling mine due to an offer from my father-in-law about the 84 model
he owns, I'm selling to buy his. Any info you need about the durability
or availability to coach or chassis parts is readily available through
the RV mags or with the helpfull folks on line... jac
In article <4heudf$3...@Mercury.mcs.com>, mun...@MCS.COM (Robert Munyer) says:
>
>I'm thinking of buying a used motorhome, and my budget seems to
>indicate one from the mid-to-late 70's.
>
>Dodge must have been king of the road back then, because about
>90% of the ones I've seen for sale are built on a Dodge chassis.
>
>years ago. Should I be concerned about this? Should I go out of
>my way (and limit my selection) in order to get a chassis made by
>Ford or GM? Is it easy to get parts for Fords and GMs, but hard
>(or impossible or expensive) to get them for Dodges?
>
>still making the 318 and 360 cubic inch V8's, but not the 440.
>If I do get a Dodge, should I rule out anything with a 440? Or
>are the engine parts still easy to get and reasonably priced?
>
>one made by a company that is still in business? Or have
>appliances and furniture and body panels changed so much since
>then that nothing would be compatible, even with a brand name
>like Winnebago or Allegro that is still in production?
>
>being made with hardened exhaust valve seats, so they could run
>on unleaded gas without excessive valve seat erosion?
>
Scott Hammett
: And finally: does anyone know when motorhome engines started
: being made with hardened exhaust valve seats, so they could run
: on unleaded gas without excessive valve seat erosion?
I suspect that most '70s vintage motorhomes will have had a rebuild or
two along the way and that rebuild is usually done with the hardened
value seats. I've been told that a towing RV will need an engine
rebuild and a new tranny every 50,000 miles, or so. That was the
history with the antique we bought.
BTW, we bought a '76 Pace Arrow and it has been an adventure. RVs are
probably the most expensive hobby next to boats, so be prepared to spend
alot if you are not a mechanic or upholsterer or don't have alot of time.
Even the parts are expensive (ie cheap high temp spark plug wires for $80
per set or a refridgerator for $1300).
I think that properly maintained / updated motorhomes can be just as reliable
as a new one and alot less $$$. The problem we have is getting an
insurance company to insure it for its replacement value. All they will
insure us for is book value which wouldn't replace the appliances and
engine.
Anybody out there running with antique plates??
Scott
: Thanks in advance,
R Lindberg / E Winnie
<snip>
>
>Anybody out there running with antique plates??
>
Yes, last summer a saw a 1939 Desoto (sp?) that had been converted in
1952 and was currently under restoration. The side and back windows where
leaded-stained glass and decorative bay-windows. The wood work has
Mahogeny, some steam bent. The interior was -wounderful-, but period to
luxary camping in the '50s. i.e. an ice box, a stove, but no A/C,
microwave, etc.
It was -really neat.
--
Ralph Lindberg N7BSN Ellen Winnie N7PYK e-mail <drag...@scn.org>
<http://kendaco.telebyte.com/rlindber>
RV and Camping FAQ <http://kendaco.telebyte.net/rlindber/rv/>
They call it Surfn' the Net 'cause it's so easy to wipe out
Richard Saro
>..I'm thinking of buying a used motorhome, and my budget seems to
>..indicate one from the mid-to-late 70's.
... snip ...
>..The same question applies to the coach itself. Should I look for
>..one made by a company that is still in business? Or have
>..appliances and furniture and body panels changed so much since
>..then that nothing would be compatible, even with a brand name
>..like Winnebago or Allegro that is still in production?
Not that I would recommend a Winnebago, but many common parts, eg,
weather seals, hardware, plumbing, etc are still available.
Driver/passenger captain chairs use the same mounting bolt pattern as
current production so retro-fit is easy.
>..And finally: does anyone know when motorhome engines started
>..being made with hardened exhaust valve seats, so they could run
>..on unleaded gas without excessive valve seat erosion?
In 1986 for Chevrolet truck chassis over 8500 lbs GVW.
BTW, have I got a deal for you on an '82 Winnebago 30' Chieftain. <g>
Regards,
--
Richard Saro
rgs...@infonet.isl.net
Dolph Cecula
>> years ago. Should I be concerned about this? Should I go out of
>> my way (and limit my selection) in order to get a chassis made by
>> Ford or GM? Is it easy to get parts for Fords and GMs, but hard
>> (or impossible or expensive) to get them for Dodges?
>
>personal bias. Facts: the old ballast resister bugaboo will strand you
>once in a while, and they were not the smartest crowd around in picking
>carburetors and brakes. But parts are NOT hard to find, and the old
>crocks will run many a mile for the buck.
>
>> still making the 318 and 360 cubic inch V8's, but not the 440.
>> If I do get a Dodge, should I rule out anything with a 440? Or
>> are the engine parts still easy to get and reasonably priced?
>
>problem. Some will say otherwise, but the 318 is plenty strong for the
>smaller coaches, say under 10,000#.
>
>
>on hand for stuff like doors and windows. Plan on improvising, regardless
>of brand name. Don't count heavily on interchangeability of appliances.
>Water pumps and water heaters are kinda standard, but there is a lot of
>variety in most applicances. Be MOST concerned about hidden rotted wood
>frames or flooring, and sagging frames.
>
>
>problem is significantly overblown. It is simply not a huge deal - and if
>you are convinced otherwise, I think there are cheap gasoline additives to
>eliminate the concern entirely.
>
>ANY old crock made in the '70's is going to be a candidate for
>maintenance items at a fairly serious level: flexible brake hoses, all
>belts and engine fluids hoses, radiator, etc. If you can't afford a
>thorough going-over before you start out, you SURELY can't afford to
>break down in the middle of Nevada or equal.
>
>wi...@epix.net - KD3XR - W F Sill, Tunkhannock, PA
Two additional items on purchasing older vehicles. First, when I have
seen people in campgrounds with older vehicles, they usually maintained
them themselves - probably due to the high cost of maintenance. Second,
I once met a fellow who bought older Blue Birds and had almost no
problems with them. Unfortunately, they will cost a little more than the
other vehicles with gasoline chassis. Probably in the $30,000s.
Just my $0.02.
Dolph
Arnold Pittao
mu> Dodge must have been king of the road back then, because about
mu> 90% of the ones I've seen for sale are built on a Dodge chassis.
You bet. And an EXCELLENT chassis they were/are!
mu> Ford or GM? Is it easy to get parts for Fords and GMs, but hard
mu> (or impossible or expensive) to get them for Dodges?
No...there's not a problem at all with parts for the Dodge engines. They were
made for a long period of time and both hrysler dealers and jobbers still
support them.
mu> If I do get a Dodge, should I rule out anything with a 440? Or
mu> are the engine parts still easy to get and reasonably priced?
Go ONLY for the 440, especially if your coach is a larger one. You will find
yourself under-powered otherwise. They are a robust, dependable engine with
readily available parts.
mu> The same question applies to the coach itself. Should I look for
mu> one made by a company that is still in business? Or have
If you're looking for one of that vintage (ours is a Winnebago Brave 1976) you
won't get a lot of support from the company since it is "old." I've never had
to go to Winnebago directly for parts except for a couple of decals which were
generic enough that they were available at a local supplier.
mu> appliances and furniture and body panels changed so much since
mu> then that nothing would be compatible, even with a brand name
mu> like Winnebago or Allegro that is still in production?
Appliances are generally generic (Norcold=fridges; Suburban=furnaces etc.) that
you can purchase from the "best deal."
mu> being made with hardened exhaust valve seats, so they could run
mu> on unleaded gas without excessive valve seat erosion?
Not a problem with the 440's. We run unleaded (obviously) all the time with
fine results.
Do consider joining the Family Motor Coach Association, 8291 Clough Pike,
Cincinatti. For $25/yr you get immeasurable benefits. They also have a "Dodge
Chassis Chapter" which is geared to, as the motto says "keep 'em running." I
can provide you more info. if you need.
You're likely in for a lot of "fiddling" with an older coach. But if you
enjoy that kind of thing (as I do) it's an inexpensive way to be in the
motorhome realm. A lot of fun too!
Best of luck on your search. Arnie
mu> Thanks in advance,
mu> -- Robert Munyer <mun...@mcs.net>
mu> P. S. I expect most of my trips to be only a few hundred miles,
mu> with a stay of one month or more at the other end -- so I will be
mu> using the living space much more than the engine (if that makes
mu> any difference). Of course, I would want to do a 5,000 mile
mu> round trip once or twice, to "Discover America" and all that.
Unknown
On 4 Mar 1996 16:20:29 GMT, "Anthony E. Kessel, Jr."
<dunc...@gate.net> wrote:
:>I've got a 79 32' Journey on a 1600 Dodge chasis and love it.
:>
:>It has a 440 which is needed for a big rig.
:>
:>I'd recommend a Dodge and have had only one trouble getting a
:>part in the 12 years we've had it -- a cruise control diaphram.
:> It took a while, but I found it.
:>
R Lindberg / E Winnie
>In article <4hq4ib$7...@news.wco.com>, Ray Bailey <r...@mlode.com> wrote:
>I'd like to ask for everyone's advice on how to prevent this.
>
>Would you want an electric oil pump with a switch on the dash, so
>you could get some oil moving around inside the engine before you
>ever crank the starter?
You are talking about a pre-luber. Very common in commercial, and
-should- be in RV's. While I personaly have questions about gas rigs, all
diesels should have them. esp any turboed rig.
>Or what about Slick 50 or some other teflon concoction?
I use it, but ???
>How about starting up the engine every so many weeks and letting
>it run for some number of minutes? If so, how many weeks and how
>many minutes?
Eh.. I would also start it and let it idle a while then..
>Or maybe just idling in place isn't good enough, and instead you
>should "take her out for a spin" every so often. If so, how many
>miles and how often?
That would be better. I good friend who makes his living maintaining
'things' (trust me you don't want to know) runs his 10 or 20 miles every
two weeks -year- around.
>And whatever you do for the main engine, would you also do for the
>generator?
My generator expert recommends every month for about an hour, also the
gas should be 'stabled' (have a fuel stablizer added). I also stable my
tow-vehicle over the winter, my friend also does his MH.
>And what about all the other systems Ray mentioned?
My A/C friends recommend running every vehicles A/C for 10 or so
minutes every month. Helps keep the seals in shape.
While this doesn't come up often, I think there is a need here for the
FAQ, any volunteers?
Ralph
Robert Munyer
> Robert Munyer <mun...@mcs.com> wrote: ...]
> > P. S. I expect most of my trips to be only a few hundred miles,
>
> life of most motorhomes. Most sit around waiting for action more
> than going into action, which produce old rigs with relatively low
> mileage. Most of these low-mileage rigs haven't been properly
> attended to/maintained during their non-op time, and therefore have
> cooling systems that are marginal, at best, engines that have been
> damaged by dry-starting (adequate lubrication because of not having
> been operated for a significant time), belts, hoses, and brake
> lines that need replacement, brakes that need attention, tires that
> are too old to be safe, (tread or not), chassis springs and shocks
> that have had it - - - well, you get the idea. [...]
I'd like to ask for everyone's advice on how to prevent this.
Would you want an electric oil pump with a switch on the dash, so
you could get some oil moving around inside the engine before you
ever crank the starter?
Or what about Slick 50 or some other teflon concoction?
How about starting up the engine every so many weeks and letting
it run for some number of minutes? If so, how many weeks and how
many minutes?
Or maybe just idling in place isn't good enough, and instead you
should "take her out for a spin" every so often. If so, how many
miles and how often?
And whatever you do for the main engine, would you also do for the
generator?
And what about all the other systems Ray mentioned?
Opinions, anyone? Thanks in advance,
-- Robert Munyer <mun...@mcs.com>
Robert Munyer
wi...@epix.net wrote:
> [...] the old ballast resister bugaboo will strand you once in a
> while [...]
Please tell, what is the old ballast resister bugaboo?
> Some will say otherwise, but the 318 is plenty strong for the
> smaller coaches, say under 10,000#. [...]
Do you mean on flat land and without a car in tow? I ask this
because I saw a 26' or 27' for sale that looked good, but I passed
it by because it only had a 318. Heck, I used to drive cars with
engines around that size.
-- Robert
co...@whidbey.net
>
>Robert,
I agree with Ralph. Simply drive your MH for 10-15 miles a week,
getting everything up to operating temp, that will keep everything
lubricated and flexible. I use slick50 too, I believe it helps. Don't
waste your money on fancy pumps, etc, it's a lot simpler to just run the
thing for 30 minutes a week. Also, the genset should be run for 1 hr
per month at half load. The a/c about 10 minutes a month. Keep the
weight off the tires if you'll be sitting for some time. Good luck, Bob
--
MZ
wi...@epix.net
On Tue, 12 Mar 1996, Robert Munyer wrote in answer to my remark that:
> > [...] the old ballast resister bugaboo will strand you once in a
> > while [...]
>
> Please tell, what is the old ballast resister bugaboo?
For reasons unknown to me, Chrysler used a notoriously unreliable resister
as a means of allowing the ignition system to operate on low primary
voltage. Unlike GM & Ford, they seemed unable to fit one that lasted well.
So at odd and unpredictable times, you will find the old crock will NOT
start. Your meter will say the resistor is fine, but she won't start til
you put in a new one.
Solution - carry a spare.
> > Some will say otherwise, but the 318 is plenty strong for the
> > smaller coaches, say under 10,000#. [...]
>
> Do you mean on flat land and without a car in tow? I ask this
> because I saw a 26' or 27' for sale that looked good, but I passed
> it by because it only had a 318. Heck, I used to drive cars with
> engines around that size.
Don't knock the 318 - good strong engine. You are not gonna get huge gobs
more power from a 360 or a 440. But a 27' motorhome USUALLY weighs over
10,000#. You want to tow a car you're on yer own. Been there, done that,
and won't any more. When we go some place where we NEED a car, it is much
cheaper to rent.
Just my opinions.
Bryan Andersen
>I'd like to ask for everyone's advice on how to prevent this.
>Would you want an electric oil pump with a switch on the dash, so
>you could get some oil moving around inside the engine before you
>ever crank the starter?
This is a good idea, and possible. Mater of fact some well
designed engines already have pre-lube pumps. After market
add on pre-lube pumps are available.
>Or what about Slick 50 or some other teflon concoction?
I wouldn't recommend any of them mainly because I don't know
much about them.
>How about starting up the engine every so many weeks and letting
>it run for some number of minutes? If so, how many weeks and how
>many minutes?
Only goes so far, and likely the acumulitive wear fron all those
starts will be as great or greater than not starting it at all between
uses.
>Or maybe just idling in place isn't good enough, and instead you
>should "take her out for a spin" every so often. If so, how many
>miles and how often?
A good general rule for any engine that is started is to run it
at working speed till it is fully warm and maintain it there till
the exhaust system has had a chance to fully warm up also. This will
give a chance for the water and gas disolved in the oil to evaporate
off thus reducing internal engine corrosion. Giving the exhaust system
time to warm up fully allows any of the water vapor condensed out of the
exhaust early on in the running of the engine to evaporate, thus increasing
the life of the exhaust system. It also gives time for the water and gas
to evaporate out of the oil.
>And whatever you do for the main engine, would you also do for the
>generator?
Yes. It's got an engine... :}
>And what about all the other systems Ray mentioned?
>Opinions, anyone? Thanks in advance,
I'd recomend an engine block heater, and the pre-start oil
lubrication pump. Before you start the beast, warm up the
engine block, then after it's warm, pre-lube it, then
start it. Engines that are warm start so much nicer (even
in the summer), and acheive proper lubrication much sooner
than cold started engines.
I'd also recomend something that would help the oil stay
coating the engine parts, but don't know of a product that
does that. It just seams logical to me. Marvel Mystery
Oil is one that I've had recomended to me, but it's to be
pored down the carburator, then the engine turned over without
starting it to distribute it. This is good for long term storage,
but not that practicle for a relatively short 2-3 month timeframe.
I've never used it because I've never stored an engine that long.
Another thing that would be good is a controler on that engine
block heater to keep the engine tempeture above the dew point,
but that may be throwing to much effort into it. You know, keep
it dry, even from condensation. I've never heard of a product
that does this because it's likely overkill... From what I've
been told the major killer of engines that are not run that often
is condensation that causes corrosion inside the cylindars.
Anything that keeps down the condensation or keeps the condensation
off of the metal surfaces inside the engine will help prolong the
life of the engine.
I hope this helps.
Most of this info is stuf I've gathered from many sources, and all
of it seams logical to me. Do with it what you will, but feel free
to check anything out. I give no promice to the accuracy of any
of it.
--
Bryan Andersen <-O.O O.O-+ Diversity is the spice of life.
+-O.O \_/ \_/ O.O->
br...@winternet.com \_/ <-O.O-+ \_/ SF Fan.
\_/
ronald spicer
Excellent vehicle. 318 is the best engine. Don't get a 360. It's
bigger but doesn't get the efficiency of a 318. There seems to be
almost no noticeable difference in power.
"78 and prior 318 had only PCVs,l no other pollution stuff, whereas
the 360 was loaded with pollution stuff. That alone tells you
something about efficiency.
After '78 even the 318 started having more pollution stuff, I think.
Good luck, Ron
Michael D. Griffin
>In article <Pine.SUN.3.91.960304...@plum.epix.net>,
>wi...@epix.net wrote:
>> while [...]
>
>Please tell, what is the old ballast resister bugaboo?
>
It's part of the ignition system and does go out occasionally on older
Dodge vehicles. I used to own a 77 Dodge B200 van and it went out on me
twice in 8 1/2 years. Not very expensive and easy to replace, assuming
you've got a spare with you. When it goes out, you can crank the starter
& it appears to start but dies as soon as you let off the starter.
>> Some will say otherwise, but the 318 is plenty strong for the
>> smaller coaches, say under 10,000#. [...]
>
>Do you mean on flat land and without a car in tow? I ask this
>because I saw a 26' or 27' for sale that looked good, but I passed
>it by because it only had a 318. Heck, I used to drive cars with
>engines around that size.
>
Some of it depends upon the gearing. Right now, I own a 1970 Explorer
(23' Class A) on a Dodge frame with a 318. I can't tow anything and some
mountain passes (the bigger ones here in Alaska) make me down shift.
Otherwise, I don't slow down unless I get a slow-moving car in front of
me. (Ask my wife, she usually follows in our 1990 Ford E150 van and has
suggested at times that I slow down.)
BTW - Thanks to everyone for reminding me about the ballast resistor.
I've got to remember to get a spare before we go out again.
Griff
trave...@earthlink.net
<gri...@alaska.net> wrote:
I have a '74 Winnebago class A with a Dodge 440 engine. Do I have a
ballast resistor? Where is it?
I've never had a problem yet with 52k miles on the rig, but want to be prepared.
Thanks,
Raul
Ray Bailey
I note that you've received a number of excellent responses about
preventative maintenance of your motorhome once it's a part of your
family. If you're the type of person that bonds with one of these
things, you'll find you're always looking for better ways to keep them
sparkling. At the very least I take a 20-mile or so drive every couple
of weeks, although my list of "must-do-monthly" items is considerable
longer and involves all systems.
When I responded to your first letter I was under the impression that you
were going shopping for a late-70's motorhome; therefore I was giving my
opinion of what you were most likely to find; relatively low-mileage
units that are old beyond their mileage because of lack of use and
maintenance, and consequently in need of a lot of money by the time you
have it reliable and/or safe.
I have found extremely nice older units that have been well-maintained
and have reasonable prices. I guess all I mean to suggest is don't use
low mileage itself as a deciding criterion. If you find bird nests in
the refrig. vent, just walk on by.
Just talking.
Ray Bailey
Bill Funk
>I have a '74 Winnebago class A with a Dodge 440 engine. Do I have a
>ballast resistor? Where is it?
>
>I've never had a problem yet with 52k miles on the rig, but want to be prepared.
>
>Thanks,
>Raul
===================
A ballast resistor is a resistor used to drop the vehicle's 12 volts down
to 6 volts, that the coil uses. I'd guess that your '74 Dodge chassis does
indeed use a ballast resistor. Any auto parts store will stock these, and
they are not expensive or bulky, so carrying a spare is no real problem.
It's probably not needed, either, as they are not prone to going bad (even
though they *do* go bad once in a while).
--
Bill Funk - skyp...@starlink.com
ASCIi User Group - http://www.starlink.com:80/~ascii
User groups: More info than you can shake a CD at!
Try one near you!
Garry Burke
Been there ,had one for 20 years, EXCELLENT. Ballast resistor in
a 440 is located on a plate (where the fire wall would be) back
upper part of the engine. usually mounted on a plate with the
ignition module. Should be easy to see when motor mount is off to
check transmission oil!
Good luckMichael D. Griffin <gri...@alaska.net> wrote:
>In article
><traveler30-15...@pool029.max1.miami.fl.dynip.alter.net> ,
>trave...@earthlink.net writes:
>>I have a '74 Winnebago class A with a Dodge 440 engine. Do I have a
>>ballast resistor? Where is it?
>
>Good question, I haven't looked for mine in my 1970 Explorer. Find a
>shadetree mechanic who's familiar with Dodge trucks and ask him or her.
>(Offering a six pack of his or her favorite beverage generally helps get
>an answer.) If you can't find one, come up to Alaska and I'll look. ;-)
>
>Griff
Ken Crispin
Robert Munyer wrote:
>
> I'm thinking of buying a used motorhome, and my budget seems to
>
>
> years ago. Should I be concerned about this? Should I go out of
> my way (and limit my selection) in order to get a chassis made by
>
> still making the 318 and 360 cubic inch V8's, but not the 440.
>
>
>
>
> -- Robert Munyer <mun...@mcs.net>
>
> P. S. I expect most of my trips to be only a few hundred miles,
The Dodge dealer in Tustin California has the parts catalog/s for my
model and many others, I have been told. I needed a steering arm for
mine and it took him a week to ten days or so to get it but I can live
with that. :-) I am sure you will get many responses touting other
makes, but parts for the older dodges are still available.
Ken Crispin
John Sankey
I've an 80 Dodge and no problems getting any parts in Canada.
They really were never "in" the motorhome business anyway, as they
never made a special model for RVs - they still supply the
base for most of the ambulances in Canada, which is what was
used for most RVs anyway. I'm happy with it.
Gregory Brahms
Ken Crispin (kcri...@fia.net) wrote:
Up until 1.5 years ago I had a '78 Midas Class C with a Dodge 360. I had no
trouble getting parts for it. I went through the typical "leaky exhaust
manifold" problems where I replaced both manifolds and one head. The longest
I waited for a part from the dealer was 1 week. When I put it up for sale
I put a rebuilt carb from Grand Auto on it and it ran the best it ever did!
If it had not been for buying a new motorhome, I might have kept it.
Cheers,
Greg
Robert M. Smith
Robert Munyer wrote:
> >
> > I'm thinking of buying a used motorhome, and my budget seems to
> > indicate one from the mid-to-late 70's.
> >
> > Dodge must have been king of the road back then, because about
> > 90% of the ones I've seen for sale are built on a Dodge chassis.
I have a lovingly restored 77 Dodge "Travco" with a Dodge 440 engine.
Where I live in Colorado the smaller dodge engines would not have enough
power to pull the grades up in the mountains. I have no trouble getting
parts for my machine as it is a class A based on the '77 Dodge series 500
truck chassis. There are still many, many thousands of them on the road
in everyday use. An acquaintance of mine has an earlier one with a 360
and complains about too little power. For my money, a well kept or
restored machine from the 70's is a good investment. Your mileage may
vary...
Bob smith
Christopher Gunn
> I have a lovingly restored 77 Dodge "Travco" with a Dodge 440 engine.
> [....] For my money, a well kept or
> restored machine from the 70's is a good investment. Your mileage may
> vary...
I was killing time in a small Kansas town because of car trouble and
spotted a '73 Dodge Brougham Coach Class A, 440 engine, 69K miles,
$4,500. It had not lived an easy, garaged life--I could see where many
of the windows had been re-caulked and it was moderately sun-faded--
but overall it seemed in good condition.
I decided that this was the RV-equivalent of the "handyman's special"
in the house world, that it would be a constant hemorrhage of money
and time, but now I'm hearing a different view from Robert Smith.
Let's take a hypothetical scale of 1 to 10, where 1 means "will never
run reliably, unlikely to get to the edge of town without *something*
going wrong" and 10 means "won't need anything but gas, you could
drive it to Argentina without problems." What *range* of scores is
a 20-year-old+ Dodge Class A likely to span?
Alternatively, how much dough would one realistically expect to
sink into something like this in order to make it reliable, so one
could embark on 1000-mile+ trips with some feeling of confidence?
I know that these are at heart unanswerables, but I was hoping to
tap people's experience for a sense of the magnitude of this problem....
Christopher Gunn Molecular Graphics and Modeling Laboratory
1k1...@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu University of Kansas
Phone: 913-864-4428 or -4495 Malott Hall
Lawrence, KS 66045
Charles Burke
Just a little grist for the mill. My son the tire store manager just
recently tried to find a rear brake drum for a M300 chassis motorhome.
After 20 some phone calls around the West and Central US he found one in
a salvage yard in Chicago for approximately $400 dealer cost each.
Ouch!!
Lame Beaver
I bought a Drxxxx on a 78 dodge b350 w/440 eng with 50K on it in
1982.It ran like a dog.I fixed it up ,put another 50K onit over 12
years. Will get in it right now and go to (anywhere). it sits 11
months out of a year more or less. It has its problems but none I
havent been able to fix with a basic tool set or a credit
card...their tough...parts (except certain chassi parts) are every
where...one pesky problem though...a roof leak probably from a
passthrough vent and a traveler....hard to find....yes, Ive tried
(watever you were going to reccomend) but when I,m not using it I
hate it and when I use it I love it....I woiuld not own a RV with a
small V8, its 440, 460 or 454 or nothing...10-12GVW rigs need guts
and 3l8,s and 350,s don,t cut it for long. My road problems have
been limited to some tire problems (have insurance for this) and
some gas line problems(change everything gas wise every five years)
When I have to have it tested for EPA-smog it passes very niceley
every time. The inside stuff, refers etc work fine. Check for
Propane Leaks each season. Touch up rust etc right when you spot
it.
I use a good PTFE(just in case it really does work) and I drive
slow 55-60 most trips. Dodge it butt ugly, uses gas, crappy sheet
metal in their bodies but I love mine...no complaints....Lame
Beaver
lame beaver
Drew Crossing
>
>
>
Had a 78 Southwind with a Dodge 440. Had head problems-but I guess
everyone did. Big problem was it was impossible to get cruse control
parts. I tried all places, finally gave up. Many samll electricial parts
like switches could not be found. NAPA did not have cross checks and
dealer was no help. Consider this
Drew