Selecting a travel trailer for F150 4.2L V6
DD
consider when selecting a travel trailer for a light truck?
I have a 1999 F150 4.2L V6. Originally, I didn't plan to tow anything with
it but find that I now need to tow a travel trailer across country. Trips
will be ~1500 miles every 3 months or so. If I have the ratings correct it
can pull 5800 lbs. My plan is to stay around 4000-4300 dry weight. I need
to carry an additional 300 lbs or so max. That will keep the load
conservatively under the max load. I'll add an oil cooler, class III hitch
and retrofit the 4-pin connector for 7-pin trailer brakes.
Any and all advise is appreciated and thanks in advance.
HD in NY
pull 4 to 5 thousand pounds. With the load you presume, your
engine will be in first or second most of the time. Even
with the 4.6L V8, you'd be pushing the limits.
You'd be better off setting your sights on something much
lighter, say 3,000 or 3,500 lbs. Even with this lighter
load, your V6 will be grunting hard. Not knocking your
truck, just being realistic.
Hugh
DD
"HD in NY" <er...@error.com> wrote in message
news:11tfuck...@corp.supernews.com...
I was hoping not to have to upgrade the truck so I wanted to work within the
limits. I've had two trailer dealers tell me 5800 and that is what I see
from specs on the web. I realize this is an upper limit so I was considering
one trailer rated at 3800 dry. What you are telling me is a lot less. I'll
check it again though. Thanks.
Tom J
"DD" <txd...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:N9TBf.15757$Jd....@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
>
> I was hoping not to have to upgrade the truck so I wanted to work
> within the
> limits. I've had two trailer dealers tell me 5800 and that is what I
> see
> from specs on the web. I realize this is an upper limit so I was
> considering
> one trailer rated at 3800 dry. What you are telling me is a lot
> less. I'll
> check it again though. Thanks.
Trailer sales people are just like car, truck, boat, etc sales people.
They'll tell you anything they think you want to hear, just to make a
sale. Then when you get it all home and it doesn't work out right, you
look at your sales papers and it said the only guarantee is that
printed on your Bill of Sale. Be very wary!!!
If anyone in this group knows the bottom end of lite duty trucks it's
Hugh, because he's been there, tried that!
Tom J
DD
"Tom J" <tom...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:MkTBf.5517$rH5...@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
I understand the part about dealer integrity but I mentioned it because it
jived with the number I had on hand. Doing some more quick research I find
one site says the range is 2300 (standard) to 8300 (max) pounds. Another
site tells me 4800 and 5800 max depending on axle ratio. Not knowing what
that is I presume I have the 4800 lb version. Having said that these are
just numbers on a paper and have no correlation to how it actually drives
and handles. That is where Hugh's advise fits in and I appreciate it.
Charles Kerekes
You did not mention what kind of cab your truck has or if it is manual
or auto transmission; both have in impact on towing capacity. The best
thing to do is look up the ratings for your specific truck. Here is the
document from Ford:
https://canada.fleet.ford.com/english/products_services/rv_trailer_towing/1999/1999_f-series.pdf
(I know that the above link is on the Canadian web site, but this is
the only Ford site I found that goes back to 1999-hopefully it's
the same model as the US.)
Realize that the published numbers assume the "curb weight" of the
truck with standard configuration. Chances are that your truck weighs
more, reducing the towing capacity. Take your truck to the scales and
weigh it. Then, subtract the actual weight of your truck from the
appropriate GCWR (gross combination weight rating). This will give you
the maximum trailer weight.
Then, you should leave a 20% safety margin (multiply max trailer weight
by 0.8) and that will probably take you down to Hugh's suggested
values.
Charlie
http://ChanginGears.com
DD
news:1138235365.6...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Charlie:
Excellent. This is the sort of detail I was hoping to find as well as
drawing from the driving experiences of the group. This inverse calculation
would have taken me quite a while to figure out for myself, if ever.
I have a 1999 F150 XL 4x2 regular cab flareside with auto transmission.
Assuming the 3.31 axle ratio, the GCWR is 9000 lbs. I'll drive over to a
rock merchant tomorrow who has a scale and I'll weigh the truck.
Thanks a lot!
William Boyd
Check in the glove box some time they put weight limits there as well as
rear end gear ratios. Bottom line is find your CVWR and add the TT wet
weight and curb weight of the PU, all that will be hauled in the PU
including gas wife dog and tow chain. See if you come within 80% of the
CVWR of the PU.
--
BILL P.
Just Dog
&
ME
HD in NY
Checking the TL 1999 towing guide gives the 4,800 lb tow
rating, which is the 3.31 rear end and includes the tow
package. The V6 doesn't have the balls to pull anything near
that rating. Again, I'm not knocking your truck. I'll give
you a few examples of what I've towed and what I towed with.
A 1991 GMC Sonoma with the 4.3L V6, 3.09 axle and automatic
transmission. Towed a 21' Sunline 5th wheel. Trailer weighed
around 3,400 lbs. Nice tow.
Same truck and a 30' Award weighing around 4,400 lbs dry.
Because the trailer was streamlined it towed good. Judging
by what we carried in the trailer we probably had a 5-600 lb
payload. The Sunline was a much better match though.
Same Award, 1996 GMC Sierra club cab, short box, 4.3L V6,
3.42 axle and automatic. Really nice combo. The GM V6 has a
lot of torque at lower rpms.
Same truck and an '88 HR Alumalite, 26' TT. Weight supposed
to be about 4,500 lbs. Towing weight was more like 5,500
lbs. Right at the limit for that truck engine.
Same trailer, 2002 GMC Sierra, club cab, short box, 4.8L V8,
3.42 axle, automatic and factory tow package. Really nice
combo, well matched and a pleasure to tow.
Moral is, I've towed everything from an 8' Coleman popup
with an Escort to our current 30' HR Alumascape, with super
slide, with a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab, with tow
package, 5.7L Hemi, 5sp automatic, 3.55 axle and 17" wheels
(20" wheels lowers the tow rating). All have towed well. I
wouldn't recommend any of the rigs I've run to someone who
hasn't the experience I have. Not "bragging", just stating fact.
All that said, I wouldn't tow even 80% of the tow weight
rating, with the 4.3L V6. That's why the 3 to 3.5 tow
weight. The 3.31 axle is going to hurt towing performance.
I have a suggestion, check out the Trailmanor line. They
weigh less than conventional trailers, have a low profile to
cut wind resistance and one would make a good rig to haul
around the country.
Hugh
Tom J
>
> I have a suggestion, check out the Trailmanor line. They weigh less
> than conventional trailers, have a low profile to cut wind
> resistance and one would make a good rig to haul around the country.
> Hugh
There is one exception to the TrailManor. The lifting mechanics don't
take to the slug & muck on the Alaska routes when raining an
construction is going on at the same time. I saw a caravan of 15 in a
campground in Stewart, BC and there was a mechanic with 2 helpers
going rig to rig freeing up the lifts so they could use them that
night. I talked to one of the owners who's rig wasn't caked up and he
said the tour operator hired the mechanic escort especially for their
caravan. Seems they had run into this problem before.
Tom J
DD
"William Boyd" <willi...@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:43qrqbF...@individual.net...
Unless I'm mistaken, I think the CVWR is listed on my driver door. I have to
check it though to be sure. If not there, I'll be sure to check the glove
box. Thanks.
DD
I'll be sure to look into the Trailmanor. There is a show in Houston on Feb
8th; maybe they will be there. Since I should be following Interstates &
staying mostly in RV parks or state parks I shouldn't be exposed to too much
muck and mire but I'll investigate the lifts now that I know they may be an
issue. Thanks.
DD
I just checked out the Trailmanor website. I almost dismissed it as a pop up
camper. I'm glad I wasn't too hasty. It looks very impressive. Although it
is more than I wanted to spend I will check them out anyway. A dealer is
nearby and the benefits may outweigh the cost. Cheers Hugh & Tom.
TheSnoMan
Forget the GCVW "rating" because it is just that a rating with no
science behind, just marketing. It is your axle ratio and engine that
determines what you really can tow effectively, not a rating because
some of them or very over "rated' Especailly 1/2 models.
--
-----------------
www.thesnoman.com
Frank Tabor
>> Unless I'm mistaken, I think the CVWR is listed on my driver door. I have to
>> check it though to be sure. If not there, I'll be sure to check the glove
>> box. Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>Forget the GCVW "rating" because it is just that a rating with no
>science behind, just marketing. It is your axle ratio and engine that
>determines what you really can tow effectively, not a rating because
>some of them or very over "rated' Especailly 1/2 models.
Bad, Bad advice. That is the maximum your vehicle is rated to weigh
in combination with your towed trailer. Exceeding this rating will be
dangerous to your health and the safety of everyone else on the
highway. Not to mention the fact the legal liability and consequences
if you should have a wreck and be over the Gross Vehicle Combination
Weight.
What will be found on your door tag is the GVWR, Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating. This is how much your vehicle can weigh with passengers,
load, fuel and any weight on the trailer hitch.
--
Frank Tabor
Michelle
vehicles & services
owners
my vehicle
your can access owners manuals and towing guides.
Or go to your local dealer and ask.....
My 250 with a 5.4 gas will tow 7400 lbs....
Your engine will be a problem.
Michelle
DD
"Frank Tabor" <fta...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:p7nht19q5bgcebu3v...@4ax.com...
> TheSnoMan wrote:
>
>> What will be found on your door tag is the GVWR, Gross Vehicle Weight
> Rating. This is how much your vehicle can weigh with passengers,
> load, fuel and any weight on the trailer hitch.
> --
> Frank Tabor
Speaking of door labels, I just looked. You are right. The GVWR (5600) is
listed.
I also noted a list of acronyms and numbers and looked them up. I have an
Axle=19 which is 3.55 ratio with NON-limited slip differential. That's not
good. The transmission is code U for Automatic 4R70W (not sure what that
means).
Frank Tabor
4 speed OD electronic controled. Replaced the AODE transmission, and
from what I've read is a pretty solid transmission.
--
Frank Tabor
RAM^3
One very important thing to consider [and a cheap experiment to try] when
determining the towing capability of your truck is the frontal area of the
trailer.
While the trailer's weight IS important ["Can Your Tow Vehicle STOP This
Much?], the frontal area of the trailer (aka "sail area") acts like a drogue
parachute or a sea anchor and supplies the majority of stress on the tow
vehicle's drive train. This strain can cause differential and/or
transmission failure.
A simple, relatively inexpensive, and easy way to test the towing capability
of your truck is to rent an enclosed cargo trailer with a frontal area
similar to a travel trailer [8' high, 7' wide] and tow it EMPTY. If your
engine temperature stays within its "normal" range then you might have an
acceptable tow vehicle.
Don't be surprised, however, if you find that the extreme aeronautical drag
of the trailer causes your vehicle's engine to overheat at anything
approximating highway speeds.
BTDT!
If you find that the truck tows the empty cargo trailer with ease, load it
with heavy "stuff" and make another run. If it still shows no signs of
strain THEN start looking at travel trailers.
A side note: When shopping for a trailer use the GVWRs - not the "empty"
weight - as your guide. The advertised "empty" weight only applies to
"stripper" models that have no options installed, have empty propane tanks,
have empty water and holding tanks, and, often, have no spare tire or air
conditioner. By using the GVWR you'll have a far better idea of the actual
weight - as loaded - than trying to "guesstimate" the weights of the "stuff"
that you take along. [Food, linens, cooking utensils, dinnerware, toilet
paper, hoses, levelling blocks, books, tapes/CDs/DVs, clothing, water,
propane, etc. ad nauseum.]
DD
"RAM^3" <S31924...@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:kE8Cf.46643$28....@fe53.usenetserver.com...
I like that idea. It's cheap insurance before taking the plunge. Thanks.
RAM^3
You're quite welcome.
William Boyd
This is good advice an example of what he is talking about can be
observed by watching those crazy weather guys trying to stand up in the
wind during the hurricanes. If the air didn't have any effect on the
frontal mass, a sail boat would get no where. The faster you go the more
resistance there is and drag.
