On Sun, 02 Dec 2012 15:56:04 -0500,
stan....@hotmail.com wrote:
>>On Saturday, December 1, 2012 11:21:36 PM UTC-6,
stan....@hotmail.com wrote:
>>> >On Fri, 30 Nov 2012 09:36:20 -0800 (PST),
ilbe...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>> >Stan, Thanks so much for the info. Sadly, i tried adjusting both of these governor screws a few turns in hopes it would make the Gen. run smoother. It did, but then a few seconds later, it stopped the Gen. from running. Now what ? Do i need a hertz meter in order to adjust it back to 60 hz again ? I dont have one but i have an accurate digital volt meter. Please dont tell me i need to take it in to an Onan Dealer cause the only one around here has a proven bad reputation of ripping people off . If i can get it to stay running again, ill spray the intake and put some seafoam into the fuel line hose right at the carb. And no...the carb is not removable from what i can see. David.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> As I recall, one adjustment addresses sag/droop, ie how the generator recovers from sudden load or
>>>
>>> shedding of load. The other, of course is the frequency adjustment.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 1. You could always do it the hard way, with an electric clock with a second hand, and determine if
>>>
>>> it is running fast or slow for each revolution of the second hand.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 2. Some digital volt meters have a HZ measuring function.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 3 The simplest way, is with a Kill-A-Watt meter. They run about $20 or so:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
http://www.p3international.com/products/special/p4400/p4400-ce.html
>
>>On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 06:56:28 -0800 (PST),
ilbe...@gmail.com wrote:
>>Now it will start but dies about 2 seconds later. Boy...i messed it up. Im going to try replacing the spark plug which is very dark in appearance . If i can get it running and stay running, i now have a HZ Meter but i dont know which screw is for Frequency. I may have to bite the bullet and have this Onan Dealer get it running properly again. Thanks.
>
>No. You haven't messed up. That fact that the generator won't stay running has nothing whatsoever to
>do with adjusting the output frequency.
>
>Does it stay running while the "start" button is pressed? And then quit when released? which
>indicates a circuit board problem, and inability of the supply power to keep the unit running.
>Failure of the diode ring bridge rectifier is fairly common. To quit after 2 seconds, sounds like an
>electrical circuit board problem, or the generator brushes and slip ring problem.
>
>But your current problem sounds like a different complication, unrelated to the initial surging
>problem.
>
>I similar probem with my 1999 generator last winter, but it would run for 20 minutes before giving
>up. After sitting sitting a few hours in a parking lot beside my ailing friend in 90+ weather, I
>finally conceded defeat and took to the Orlando Cummins dealer. Although I am a licenced auto
>mechanic, this one had me beat: 2000 km away from home, working in a parking lot with limited tools.
>
>Even the dealer couldn't figure out the problem until everything else had been replaced!
>
>-fuel filter
>-spark plugs
>-carburetor
>
>And it still wouldn't run for more than 20 minutes!!
>
>FINALLY!!: it turned out to be an $108 intermittent fuel pump. After replacing that, it's been
>working great ever since.
>
>My rig was in the repair shop for the entire day! In their favour, they were rather generous when it
>came to making up the invoice: $650 for the day, which included a new $350 carburetor. :-(
>
>On the positive side: the generator now works really great! :-)
Will this manual help any? I do not know what model is in question
but I do not expect there are a lot of big changes:
http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/manuals/981-0503.pdf
It has pictures. Also sounds like the unit might have a fuel filter
that can be gunked up as well as the carb and shows how to get the
float bowl off the carb. ;-)