towing capacities and weight 2001 Coleman NIagra
cbu...@comcast.net
Need help from anyone that has towed a 2001 Cole Niagra with a 2003
Ford Explorer SportTrack. I have never towed a pop up before. Looking
to buy a used Coleman that has no manuals and not sure of weight
unloaded.Trying to make sure my Ford will pull it on flat and in the
NC mountains.
Charleston, SC
2001 Coleman Niagra
2003 Ford Explorer SportTrack
cbu...@comcast.net
Me again.
Forgive any typing mistakes....
The other thing is they are asking $3200 for this pop up. It is at a
pawn shop so any insight as to what to check would be great too.
I did notice some mold on the canvas but very little.
All screens are all good and it has a screened porch that attaches to
awning
1 gas bottle
Frig looks real good just needs good cleaning
They say everything work and they ar also giving me a warrenty, 30.
Not sure how good that will be.
Could not remembr about if it had a sway bar or electric brakes.
So what does anybody think, good investment or not? Single Mom, so I
will have to do all the work and set up. Use to tent camping.
miles
The 2001 Niagra weights about 2700lbs dry. Figure 500lbs for water and
gear. You'll have to look up the tow rating of your Ford and make sure
you stay under it. Also make sure to install a transmission cooler.
They're not very expensive.
cbu...@comcast.net
thank you. Would you know where I can get a manual for this camper? I
need something to give me instractions on lighting heaters and
refrigirator. As you can tell I am a novice with campers.
tobe
I do not now ANYTHING about the pop-up you are looking at, but there are
LOTS of things to look for in an older pop-up. These include:
The condition of the tires.
The maintenance done on the wheel bearings. Some avid pop-up-ers
re-pack them every year. If you ask and the answer is "huh?", you know
you will have to have them re-packed or replaced.
Look underneath at the suspension and make sure the springs are not
broken. How much rust is there on the frame under there? Is there any
damage to the frame?
While underneath, look at the status of the underside of the floor. Are
their signs of rot or water damage?
How much does the camper weigh. This should be listed in the manual if
the owner still has it, or on a label somewhere on the outside of the
camper. If it is more than about 2000 pounds, there should be electric
brakes on the camper. These should be in working condition if they
exist. If the camper is this heavy and does not have brakes...they are
not cheap to install.
Do the stabilizer jacks work right and seem to be in decent shape?
Does the pop-up open up and close smoothly? Is there rust on the cable,
or has it been well maintained and lubricated?
What do the caulked seams on the outside of the camper look like? Is
the caulking in good condition? Are there any dents in the pop-up skin?
Do all the brake/driving lights work?
What shape is the tow bar in?
What shape is the canvas in? This is expensive to replace. Do all the
window zippers work? Are the screens in good shape? Are there interior
curtains which are in good shape?
Are there any signs on a leak inside (water stains anywhere)?
Do the slide-outs (ends with the mattresses) function OK, and are the
slide-out supports (they go underneath) still around and in good shape?
What shape are the mattresses in? (Most pop-up mattresses are not very
comfortable to start with.)
Is the floor in good shape?
Does the Dinette table look in good shape? Most Dinettes which convert
to a bed provide a pretty short bed, so check this out with someone
lying on the converted bed. Are all the chair cushions still there and
in good shape?
Do the drawers work and seem to be in good shape without evidence of
leaks or water damage.
Take out the bottom drawers and look inside with a flashlight. Any
damage by water or mice?
Does the sink work - both faucet and drain. Is the water tank (usually
under a seat) clean, or full of mold(!)?
Does the 'converter' - converts 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC when you are
plugged into 'shore' power - work right? When plugged in to shore
power, this unit provides power to the interior (and exterior, if any)
lights, to the furnace (if any), to the propane leak detector, to the
electric water pump if it has one... Turn on the inside lights to check.
Do the electric outlets work when you plug something in?
If there is a furnace, does it work?
Is there a deep cycle battery for camping away from shore power? If so,
how old is it and does it still hold a charge. (These are not cheap either).
How old is the propane tank, and what do the connections/fittings look
like? Run the stove, both inside and outside (if there is an outside
connection and mounting hooks). Does it work OK? Do you smell propane
anywhere?
Are all the outside fittings, for water, drain, etc., in good shape?
If there still is a fridge, does it work with all potential sources of
power (potentially gas, 12 V DC, and 120 V AC)?
Is there an air conditioner? Does it work OK? If there is a roof vent
instead, what shape is it in? Any signs of leaks. Is there a vent fan,
and does it work?
I'm sure there are other things to look for that I have forgotten, but
you get the idea: Look at EVERYTHING carefully to see what works, what
doesn't work, what you can live with and without, what you would *need*
to replace for safety and functionality, etc., and how much that would cost.
Your Explorer should be equipped with the factory tow package. If not,
you will need to have some work done to it: Transmission cooler, hitch
put in, wiring for the camper connection... You will need a brake
controller for your Explorer too...most people recommend the Tekonsha
Prodigy.
Check out the NADA guide on-line for pricing campers. A 2001 Coleman
Niagra looks to price out at near $6,000, making me worry what is wrong
with the one you are considering for such a low price!
HTH
cbu...@comcast.net wrote:
> On Jun 27, 7:36 pm, cbur...@comcast.net wrote:
>> Need help from anyone that has towed a 2001 Cole Niagra with a 2003
>> Ford Explorer SportTrack. I have never towed a pop up before. Looking
>> to buy a used Coleman that has no manuals and not sure of weight
>> unloaded.Trying to make sure my Ford will pull it on flat and in the
>> NC mountains.
>
cbu...@comcast.net
>
> - Show quoted text -
It was originally priced at $4500 and it is at a Pawn shop. The pawn
shop is a chain and they always have lots of large items. One of the
employees had it on lay away and then they needed the money for buying
a house. She had told me
They are giving a warrenty with it.
Found out that the MAX GCWR for my Truck is 9600 lb. The truck weights
3700 lb. I think I will be OK as long as I get the Trans cooler and
the larger hitch and brake kit.
Thank you for the informaiton.
Coral
miles
> thank you. Would you know where I can get a manual for this camper? I
> need something to give me instractions on lighting heaters and
> refrigirator. As you can tell I am a novice with campers.
Coleman and Fleetwood never made very decent manuals. Most are rather
generic. Take a look here to download them.
http://www.popupportal.com/manuals_2.asp?mf=Coleman
They don't have a manual for your particular trailer but as said they
are rather generic so one of them should be close.
Their manuals do not explain operation of the refrigerator or heater.
You'll have to contact the heater manufacture (Atwood or other) and the
refrigerator manufacture (Dometic, Norcold etc.)
There are two types of heaters. One is self lighting with a switch on
the heater or inside the trailer. More likely yours is manual lighting.
You open the door panel to the heater on the outside of your trailer,
turn the knob to pilot and while holding the button down light the pilot
then move the knob to on. It can take quite awhile for the air to get
out of the line. Lighting a stove burner inside for a few seconds will
speed things up.
miles
> Check out the NADA guide on-line for pricing campers. A 2001 Coleman
> Niagra looks to price out at near $6,000, making me worry what is wrong
> with the one you are considering for such a low price!
NADA is always rather inflated. I paid $7000 new for my 1996 Coleman
Shenendoah which is very similar to the Niagra. It sold 3 years ago for
$3500.
cbu...@comcast.net
Can anybody tellme how to put up the canapy. I am having a real hard
time with it. It also has a screen room.
Problem is the pole are too long even on the shortest setting to set
on ground. Not sure where else to set them. I have them angled and
setting back on the support jacks right now and then tied down on the
corners with stakes. Is this right?
miles
> Can anybody tellme how to put up the canapy. I am having a real hard
> time with it. It also has a screen room.
>
> Problem is the pole are too long even on the shortest setting to set
> on ground. Not sure where else to set them. I have them angled and
> setting back on the support jacks right now and then tied down on the
> corners with stakes. Is this right?
Not sure how your awning is made. On my coleman there are three
horizontal poles that attach from the trailer to the awning along the
top. Then there are three vertical poles. All of the poles are
adjustable length. Sounds like you've got non adjustable poles or you
have incorrectly swapped the horizontal for the vertical poles which
maybe different lengths.
Tomes
> cbu...@comcast.net:
One thing to look at: Perhaps you have mixed up the 2 sets of poles. I
remember that there were 2 different lengths for the pole bottom halves.
If the other ones are shorter try swapping them in. For the horizontal
ones, you want them to be long enough to be really snug so they do not
fall down on your head in a wind. I remember placing the rubber butt end
in the thingy that the roof latch hooks onto, where it was rather happy
and did not move for me.
Tomes
cbu...@comcast.net
> "miles" phx...
>
>
>
> > cbur...@comcast.net:
>
> - Show quoted text -
There is only one set of poles that came with it. They are attached to
the canapy and the bottom half is adjustable. They are attached to a
channel along the end of the canapy. They are too long for horizontal
and too ong for down poles unless a angle them down to the ground next
to the tires and jacks.
Is there anyplace i can get a diagram of how it should look. It also
has a screen room that attaches.
Tomes
> "Tomes" :
> the canapy and the bottom half is adjustable. They are attached to a
> channel along the end of the canapy. They are too long for horizontal
> and too ong for down poles unless a angle them down to the ground next
> to the tires and jacks.
>
> Is there anyplace i can get a diagram of how it should look. It also
> has a screen room that attaches.
>
Coleman for 2 years now...) My more specific memory is this: on mine, the
top halves of the poles were connected to the channel, and I had to attach
the lower parts to those (I kept the lower parts in another compartment).
I suspect that you are missing poles.
(Side thought not about your height issue: I wonder how, without any
horizontal poles, your awning stays out from the camper. In your channel,
are there holes drilled that would face the camper?)
In any case, it seems that your canopy is not exactly like mine was. It
could very well be that the canopy is an item that the dealer added on
afterwards (they easily slip on and off), so who knows what brand it is,
really. What would really help in this discussion, it seems, would be for
you to snap a few pictures, post them on a free site, and the post a link
to them here. This way we can see it for real and perhaps be more
helpful.
Tomes
cbu...@comcast.net
> <cbur...@comcast.net> ...
>
> - Show quoted text -
Good idea. There is some holes in the channel that I have ran ropes
trew and staked them to the ground. So the poles that normally would
be the horizontal poles sit on the ground next to the camper and the
ropes apply downward pressure on them.
But I will try to take some pictures and then link them for help.
Probaly not anytimes soon since it is raining here in SC.
thanks for the help
Tomes
<cbu...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1184015521.1...@q75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
I took a shot at a bit of ASCII art to try to show what mine looked like
with the channel, vertical pole and horizontal pole connections. Dunno
how this might look on your end, if it looks wrong, maybe try copying and
pasting it into Word and using Comic Sans font. The horizontal pole had a
nipple that fit into a hole on the side of the channel facing the camper.
There was another hole on the outside of the channel at the same spot
(like they drilled the hole all the way through both sides of the channel)
and I always tied my guy line to that.
\ \
\ __\ <- channel (right end while facing away from camper)
=====+ | || |
||
|| <- vertical pole
^ that would be the horizontal pole
tobe
awning. They swing out to each end from the middle, extend, and a flat
piece hooks into a receptacle on the camper a foot or two above the
bottom of the camper (one on each side of the awning). These pieces can
be adjusted for various heights/slope of the awning.
There are separate horizontal poles that go into the holes on the end of
the awning and the other rubber footed end goes under the end of the
awning by the camper.
Additionally, I use two ropes and tent stakes to secure the set-up.
Look at the www.carefreeofcolorado.com web site. They make lots of the
awnings for pop-ups. Look under CAMPOUT for pictures of one style and
how the poles go. Look under the 'tech' tab and then the parts list.
That awning has both sets of poles built into the awning.
The screen room pieces fit into a groove on the awning, and then unroll.
Mine also has separate plastic pieces which snap to snaps on the
camper to keep bugs out (mostly) from getting into the awning area from
under the camper.
HTH
Chris Cowles
news:1184010020.4...@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>
> There is only one set of poles that came with it. They are attached
> to
> the canapy and the bottom half is adjustable. They are attached to a
> channel along the end of the canapy. They are too long for
> horizontal
> and too ong for down poles unless a angle them down to the ground
> next
> to the tires and jacks.
Those are the vertical support poles. You're missing the stretcher
poles that plug into holes drilled on the inside face of the
horizontal beam, the other end attaching to the roof by either a pin
in a hole, or a simple non-slip rubber crutch tip.
--
Chris Cowles
Gainesville, FL
miles
> There is only one set of poles that came with it. They are attached to
> the canapy and the bottom half is adjustable. They are attached to a
> channel along the end of the canapy. They are too long for horizontal
> and too ong for down poles unless a angle them down to the ground next
> to the tires and jacks.
The two poles that hang down should be adjustable. In fact, in order to
fold the up into the channel when storing they MUST collapse to 1/2 the
width of the channel. Is it possible the bottom half of these poles are
way too long? They should stand vertically. When fully extended the
awning should be level with the trailers roof. When collapsed the
awning should dip down at about a 45 degree angle.
miles
> Good idea. There is some holes in the channel that I have ran ropes
> trew and staked them to the ground. So the poles that normally would
> be the horizontal poles sit on the ground next to the camper and the
> ropes apply downward pressure on them.
I bought some pole anchors that allow the horizontal pole to slip into a
pipe which is welded to a metal base. A thumb screw tightens the pole
to the base. The base has holes in it to stake it to the ground. No
ropes to trip over!
Tomes
it and you ought to know:
When you have your awning up and it calls for rain, make one leg shorter
than the other so the collected rain will run off to one side and not pool
up in the middle.
Tomes