Anyone towing with a 1997 Grand Caravan? Ours is a Sport with the heavy
duty towing option (large radiator, alternator and suspension). Still need
to get a tow bar/hitch.
I can't find the towing capacity in my owner's manual, only something vague
indicating the maximum trailer weight might be between 3,000 - 3,500 lbs.
We're a family of four in the San Francisco bay area.
Thanks for any input and/or advice.
Jeff
Have you checked the driver side door frame?
Often, the makers put a sticker there with the max loads.
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Remember that this is fully loaded "wet" weight _with_ options, which is
typically SIGNIFICANTLY heavier than official "dry" weight _without_ any
options. We tow a '99 Aliner solid state folding trailer (no cloth),
which has a dry weight alightly under 1100 lbs. Fully loaded, we've
weighed it at 1750 lbs. -- with optional A/C, optional propane
furnace, full 11 gallon fresh water tank, optional 2nd propane tank,
propane to fill the dual 20# propane tanks, "optional" spare tire,
optional large opening skylight over the rear sofa, a bunch of food,
personal items & most clothes for the two of us, porti potti, fishing
tackle box full of first aid & "bathroom cabinet" stuff, small tool box,
tiny microwave oven, lug wrench, hydrolic jack, etc., etc. Even though
the fully loaded weight is only half of our minivan's official towing
capacity, we really slow down significantly when climbing a long grade
at 11,000 ft. altitude (or even 7,000 ft.) in the Colorado Rockies, and
I would not want to tow anything which was significantly heavier than
our Aliner.
Bottom line: You should be able to tow just about any conventional 8'
tent trailer, although that would be a little cramped for a family of 4.
You'll also be fine with most 10' tent trailers, which would provide
ample room for you, although you'll find yourself slowing down
significantly on steep mountain roads. I would recommend that you avoid
12' tent trailers, because they would be too heavy to leave you much in
the way of safety margin.
BTW, be sure to get brakes on any trailer you buy. Trailer brakes are
one of the cheapest forms of insurance you can buy!
-- Gerry
Bottom line:
> On Sun, 12 Jan 2003 02:54:47 GMT, "Jeff Guillet"
> <jsgmail...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>>We just started researching pop-up trailers.
>>
>>Anyone towing with a 1997 Grand Caravan? Ours is a Sport with the heavy
>>duty towing option (large radiator, alternator and suspension). Still need
>>to get a tow bar/hitch.
>>
>>I can't find the towing capacity in my owner's manual, only something vague
>>indicating the maximum trailer weight might be between 3,000 - 3,500 lbs.
I see where Dodge lists the towing capacity of new Caravans at 3800
pounds, so the 3000-3500 figure is probably useable. For practical
purposes, that means you should be able to go up to around 2000# on
the trailer itself, but you will be happier at less than that.
>>We're a family of four ...
See, this is an issue.
One thing it tells me is that you should *not* go for the largest,
heaviest trailer you think the Caravan is capable of towing. With
four of you going along, you will likely also be loading a lot of
stuff both into the trailer and into the Caravan. You have to take
the weight of the stuff into account also.
>> ... in the San Francisco bay area.
This is an issue also. Many of the places you are likely to want to
go will involve some serious up-hill driving. Take Lake Tahoe, for
example. Caravans are wonderful vehicles, but they aren't exactly
over-powered.
Plus, given the mild California climate, it's unlikely -- assuming
you're like most of us -- that you will actually ever very spend
many of your waking hours inside the trailer. I don't know the
statistics, but I doubt many people who own pop-ups even cook
inside. Wash dishes inside, maybe -- but that is a typically a one
or two person job (that being the kids, of course ;) ).
>>Ours is a Sport with the heavy
>>duty towing option (large radiator, alternator and suspension).
That's all to the good. But when it comes to towing, nothing quite
makes up for engine torque. Most vehicles these days are designed
to be somewhat minimalist in that department -- they pretty much
have to be.
Now I have some potentially bad news for you.
I have a friend who used to own a Caravan. It was a much older
model than yours. I can't recall the year. I think it was probably
a 1988 or so. It, too, had the towing package, including the
"large" radiator.
She bought it new and she carefully maintained it. It was not some
piece of junk lemon that she got from someone who was dumping it.
It was, in general, an excellent vehicle. She loved it.
Howver, it used to routinely overheat when being driven over the
Santa Cruz Mountains on an even moderately warm day. In 100 degree
weather, she had to pull over several times along the way to let it
cool. There is no way she would ever had made it over that hill
towing a trailer on those days.
It seems that overheating was a notorious problem with the early
Caravans, even including the ones that were equipped with "heavy-
duty" radiators. I *think* Dodge fixed that. I'm pretty sure they
did. Still, if I was you, I might want to look into this question
further.
If you can, here's what I would do:
- Get the hitch installed. Get a good one, but you should not need
a weight-distributing hitch. (This is a whole different issue.)
- Rent a trailer that is something like what you think you might
like to buy. It doesn't need to be exact, just get close.
- Load both it and the Caravan up with what you think is a
representative amount of weight. Then add a little more.
- Then go out and tow it around. Don't camp in it on the road, just
spend a day or two towing it around.
- Do camp in it at home.
Doing that should give you a pretty good idea of where you're "at"
on all this.
Now, here's the good news:
Tent trailers -- pop-ups, camping trailers, whatever you want to
call them -- are made to be used by people who have families and who
have normal-sized tow vehicles.
Just about any PU you can find will sleep at least six people. Four
is no problem whatsoever. (And, again, you probably won't be inside
all that often. Most likely, almost never.)
Canvas-sided popups typically weigh somewhere in the range of 1200
to 2200 pounds. I think you would be smart to think of about 1600#
as an appopriate "dry" weight, but you should be able to go shopping
anywhere in that zone. A 1600# trailer would leave you plenty of
room for stuff, and it would also sleep everyone comfortably and
provide for all the other things you might want to do with it.
> Have you checked the driver side door frame?
> Often, the makers put a sticker there with the max loads.
My Ford Ranger has that door sticker. It gives that information,
but it does it in codes. It needs to be used in conjunction with
the owner's manual.
I regard it as something of a mixed blessing. I have spent several
hours with it and I think I've done the calculations right. But I'm
still not sure. One mistake and you're toast. I'm toast.
To me, the easier method is to find a reputable trailer dealer
(that's hard enough by itself, but it is also something that most
people usually want to do anyway), and ask:
"What can I tow with this?"
If you take the number that a reputable trailer dealer gives you and
cut it down by 1/4, that should give you a workable starting number.
Adjust from there, depending on your personal situation.
The trailer dealers obviously want to sell you the largest thing
that might work, but the honest ones do tend to be honest. They
don't want you going out there and getting into an accident. Nor do
they want you bad-mouthing them. A good one should know his or her
business pretty well.
I do not believe that going as big as what you think you can is
wise. To me, it's something like the fable about Goldilocks and the
three bears. One dish is too hot, one is too cold, and one is just
right.
Harry (The Other One)
the old anarchist
> This is not a direct answer to your questions, but our 1998 Grand
> Caravan 3.3L with all the towing option stuff is rated to tow 3500 lbs.
> Conventional wisdom suggests...
Hey Gerry!
I am amused that our responses arrived in a virtual to-the-minute
tie and pretty much gave the exact same advice. In terms of logic,
we reached our conclusions a bit differently (of course), but
hopefully each reply will reinforce the other.
And we are, also of course, both correct. They should listen to us.
See ya!
Harry ;)
>We just started researching pop-up trailers.
>
>Anyone towing with a 1997 Grand Caravan? Ours is a Sport with the heavy
>duty towing option (large radiator, alternator and suspension). Still need
>to get a tow bar/hitch.
I tow with my 1996 Grand Caravan. I am not sure if it had the towing
package, but I do know it has the HD suspension. I installed a tranny
cooler when I installed the hitch.
Tows my Dutchmen Duck 801D with ease (1500 lb loaded; I travel
lightish).
--
Regards,
Wayne Moses, Houston, Texas
Dutchmen Duck 801D
1996 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8l
>I tow with my 1996 Grand Caravan. I am not sure if it had the towing
>package, but I do know it has the HD suspension. I installed a tranny
>cooler when I installed the hitch.
>
>Tows my Dutchmen Duck 801D with ease (1500 lb loaded; I travel
>lightish).
Oh, I forgot ... it has the 3.8 litre engine.
At the very least I would install another external transmission
cooler. You probably have one already.
Oh, I almost forgot. Get electric brakes on the camper and a Tekonsha
brake controller! Electric brakes are standard on all Coleman pop-ups
and can be added onto most other makes by the dealer. If you're
buying used, think seriously about having them installed.
Have fun camping!
On Sun, 12 Jan 2003 02:54:47 GMT, "Jeff Guillet"
<jsgmail...@pacbell.net> wrote:
John Laughlin (remove the x to e-mail).
2001 Starcraft 2406
2001 Astro
>One nice thing about towing with a Grand Caravan is the fuel economy.
>We had a 98 Grand Voyager with the 3.3 engine (without towing package;
>obviously overloaded) and would get at least 19mpg while towing on the
>flat at highway (60-65mph) speeds. After the first season we switched
>to the Astro, which does not do as well on gas but which does a much
>better towing job (especially on the hills).
Yeah. We got pretty much the same thing out of our Lumina APV.
> We just started researching pop-up trailers.
>
> Anyone towing with a 1997 Grand Caravan? Ours is a Sport with the
> heavy duty towing option (large radiator, alternator and suspension).
> Still need to get a tow bar/hitch.
>
We had a 1997 Grand Caravan with 3.8L. We towed badly and ran the
vehicle into the ground. Now that we have smartened up we are towing
with a 2002 GC and a lighter trailer.
> I can't find the towing capacity in my owner's manual, only something
> vague indicating the maximum trailer weight might be between 3,000 -
> 3,500 lbs.
>
It is rated "when properly equipped" to tow 3500 lbs. Starting at this
number you start reducing the tow rating to something justifiable. A
general rule of thumb is to not exceed 75% of the rating, so you should
only bank on a maximum of 3,000 lbs.
Now substract any cargo in the mini-van. that includes passengers,
luggage, food, etc. So you are probably at 2,400 lbs capacity remaining
for your family of four.
> We're a family of four in the San Francisco bay area.
>
The 3.3L or 3.8L or fine powerplants and with the tranny cooler,
patience, and a watchful eye you will not have trouble climbing hills
along the California coastline or inland routes. We routinely travel
between San Diego and Yosemite National Park either via Hwy 395 or up
through bakerfields and Merced. The problem we have is stopping.
Neither the V-6 engine or the transmission can supply enough drag to
hold your speed down without braking. A Ford Explorer 5.0L V-8 did not
have this problem when shifted into low. On our first trailer, it was
too heavy to start; then coupled with surge brakes it basically became a
projectile rolling down those 14% grades. I burned out the brakes twice,
the first time we actually cracked them they got so hot - and I was
still going a good 30 mph when we reached Mono Lake.
So, make sure you get electric brakes and a decent controller for the
van. The Mini-van has woefully inadequate brakes. The 2002 model has
some refinements, like 150% brighter headlamps, and larger brakes - so
it made sense for us to upgrade to it (hence the 3,800 lbs rating).
Before we traded in our '97 we had replaced the front pads twice, rotors
once, replaced front struts with gas-charged (wife takes dips a little
fast in the city), and the rear shocks replaced with some heavier coil-
over assisted shocks (Midas work). It was finally useable and surviving
at that point. Of course the trailer was MUCH heavier as I mentioned.
You will want to watch your rear end weight (tongue weight of trailer),
and use a weight distributing hitch is you begin to exceed the values on
your door jam (gross rear axle weight).
> Thanks for any input and/or advice.
>
Whew, so what do I recommend? First only select manufactuers that are
near you. It is no fun to drive 50 miles to your RV dealer to leave the
vehicle for a repair and then commute that 50 miles again a week later
to hopefully pick-up the repaired trailer.
Next limit yourself to what you can reasonably tow with your vehicle of
choice. I n your head you should be thinking a 10 foot (family of 4
needs that space at least) or a 8 foot and it must have electric brakes.
Our current 10 foot is listed at 1460 lbs dry but with options
(refrigerator, heater, LP bottle, etc.
Decide what options you NEED versus want. Our first camper was loaded.
Turnes out we didn't need a cassette toilet, hot water, outside faucet,
etc. What we did NEED was a LP furnace, canopy, brakes, roof vent, and
optionally the 3-way refrigerator (okay it was a WANT I put on the need
list) - all under 1500 lbs.
Listen to dealer recommendations after you lay out your criteria, but
believe noone - dealers will lie when it comes to towing capabilty or
weights. Again, loaded our camper tips 1850 lbs, and with the added
brakes I am comfortable with it finally.
> Jeff
>
>
Come back to the group often, many of us have been where you are now.
--
Stephen, Wife, Daughter, Son, and in-laws
San Diego, CA
2002 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L with tow package
2001 Saturn LW200 in Silver-Blue
2001 Jayco Eagle 10 UD
__________
/__________\_
|__|__|_____|---+
O
We purchased a Honda Odyssey minivan in 2001. A much improved towing
experience. If you don't have a choice of a different van, the Dodge should
do you ok if you don't care about the slower hill speeds. I may still have
the 97 Dodge tow hitch in the basement.
Gary
".Bithead." <bit...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:hb622v4qjkv3dr2hr...@4ax.com...
If you do try towing, make sure you have a weight-distributing hitch. The
back end of the Caravan will sag enough under load to make handling
potentially unsafe.
--
Chris Cowles
Gainesville, FL
"Jeff Guillet" <jsgmail...@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:XN4U9.1114$_N1.28...@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com...
Close, we have a 1997 Plymouth Voyager, very similar to the Caravan.
You're going to max out at about 3500 pounds, so that means an eight- or
ten-foot trailer at the most. Remember also that the total weight of
the load -- the trailer, consumables, fuel, equipment, passengers, etc.
-- can't exceed the limits of the vehicle.
That said, we can take our little 8' Jayco just about anywhere. It's a
pretty basic trailer, so it doesn't have a lot in the way of excess
baggage -- no furnace, toilet, shower, air conditioner, or any of that
other nonsense -- and there's just the three of us in the van so the
load isn't all that bad. We've not done any serious climbing of any
steep grades, though.
Had we to do it all over again, we would probably have bought an SUV
with the horses to tow a twelve-footer with slideout and all that, but
we do pretty well with what we have, and we have fun with it.
And that's all that matters.... ;-)
--
-- //Steve//
Steve Silverwood, KB6OJS
Fountain Valley, CA
'97 Voyager minivan towing '96 Jayco 8' Eagle tent trailer
Email: kb6...@arrl.net
Web: http://home.earthlink.net/~kb6ojs_steve