waterproofing?

[byron]

as you probably know, I am building a UH-12R. I am building it out of
wood and need to seal the frame so that it won't get messed up down the
road. I bought some Thompson's Water Seal with the intention of coating
the frame with it, but I am worried that it might mess up the epoxy when
I go to skin it. Has anyone ever used Thompson's Water Seal in the
past? If not, what do most people use to seal frames, or do they do it
at all?

byron

[Ken Roberts]

i thought you just painted it. i haven't built the one i have, but it doesn't
seem to have anything else. i think they use green treat near the bottom. i
think the bottom skin should be epoxied on both sides, as well as the very
outside. no glass, just epoxy.

[Dave Schneider]

First off I have to warn you I haven't built a hovercraft yet. However, I
have built canoes and kayaks.

Thompson's Water seal doesn't sound the best. Especially if there are any
surfaces that need to be glued. I can tell you how my brother just finished
up his stitch and glue sea kayak. Epoxy inside and out as per the
directions. That's even in the water-tight hatches. Don't goop it on
though. Make sure your epoxy is warm and spread it out as thin as possible
with a squeegee. We warm the epoxy by placing the containers in buckets of
hot tap water.

This is probably the best waterproof method, but also the heaviest and most
expensive. Paint would be my second choice. If you glue the deck on, it
would be best to glue bare wood to bare wood. The worst thing would be to
paint everything and then rely on the epoxy to adhere to the paint.

byron <sni...@lycosmail.com> wrote in message
news:3A8899F5...@lycosmail.com...

[NWCedarDecks]

Don't waste you time or money on thompson's.
ED

[dave and co.]

I think epoxy is far cheaper than a good grade of marine paint and if your
going to paint I think it would be foolish to use anything other than marine
paint on this type of project .It has been a few years since I purchased any
but I remember interlux was about 70 bucks a gallon and epoxy is around 58
for a gallon plus 1/2 gallon hardner, total gallon and a half of material. I
am using the epoxy to seal all wood and will paint outside and cockpit only

Have I missed something here?

Dave Bosworth

[Dave Schneider]

I never priced marine paint, so I don't know.

dave and co. <da...@premier1.net> wrote in message
news:t8ir9ri...@corp.supernews.com...

[byron]

I suppose that settles it then. No water seal. As to what to coat the frame
with, I will decide that later. Both epoxy and marne paint cost a ton, and that
bugs me. Frankly (I know I'm gonna take some heat for this), it would be easier
if hovercraft couldn't go on water so I wouldn't have to waterproof it. But
that's half the fun! [sarcasm]

byron

[NWCedarDecks]

Treat the in side with something that kill's the rot.

[Bill Healy]

Check out http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/rot.html if you want to brew your
own rot treatment.

"NWCedarDecks" <nwceda...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010214012439...@ng-cl1.aol.com...

[Dave Schneider]

It seems to me that Marine paint is overkill for this application. At least
one major characteristic of marine paint is it's UV resistance. Your
application will never see sun, we hope :-), and should only see temporary
exposure to water (Assuming you take you hovercraft out of the water and
have the ability to drain the hull). Wouldn't a good exterior paint work?

As far as cost goes, I think that is minimal compared to all the time and
money your going to invest in your hovercraft. Would you rather save a dime
and have to rebuild your hovercraft in a few years? I think it's money
well spent doing the best job you can to preserve your craft.

I bet this topic has been discussed at length in the boat builders news
group. You could try doing a search in deja.com (which is now owned by
Google by the way). You could also post the question to the builders group.
If I were building a wood hull I'd go research this myself. However, my
hovercraft will be foam so my interest is only academic at this point.

byron wrote in message <3A89EA37...@lycosmail.com>...

[dave and co.]

Hello again

Reading through this post this morn I remembered that I had neglected to
mention a step in the process, primer. this to adds time and money.
If your anything like me I've slopped enough epoxy around during the glueing
and generally mix more than needed for the job(better to much than not
enough)and this makes up most of the fisrt coat.
I am building the 12t4, had to buy a gallon kit, I don't think I'm in any
danger of running out.
The 17t in the UH const. vid shows the inside paint flaking off, I would
hate to redue that, (but think of the years of fun in the sun they had with
that craft) and they move on.

Dave Bosworth

[Nomad]

If you have not bought your wood you might want to look into Cyprus!
It is strong, light, and rot resistant. I plan to use it for a HC to be
built later this year.

Good luck

Jim

[byron]

how much is it?

byron

[Nomad]

I have not checked into prices yet, however living in Louisiana I am sure I
can find it fairly cheap. You might check with your local home improvement
center, lumber yard.
I will check for prices and post in the near future.

Good luck.

Jim

byron wrote in message <3A8C337E...@lycosmail.com>...