Ferret FAQ [3/5] - Care and Behavior
Pamela Greene
Last-modified: 5 June 95
Version: 2.6
FERRET FAQ (part 3 of 5) -- CARE AND BEHAVIOR
Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <pgr...@optics.rochester.edu>
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!
This document is copyright 1994, 1995 by Pamela L. Greene. See
section 0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship
information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it
away, but you can't charge for it.
The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one. Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5. A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part I. Please at least read
section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ. In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases. Information about those is
given in section [1.1].
Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file. I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way. For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.
------------------------------
Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE
Part III: CARE AND BEHAVIOR
6. *** Basic ferret care and training ***
(6.1) How can I best ferretproof my home?
(6.2) What should I feed my ferret?
(6.3) Should I give my ferret any supplements?
(6.4) What are good treats?
(6.5) How do I train my pet not to nip?
(6.6) I'm having problems litter-training. What do I do?
(6.7) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?
(6.8) Can I teach my ferret tricks? How?
(6.9) Do ferrets travel well?
7. *** Things ferrets say and do ***
(7.1) How do I know if my ferret likes something?
(7.2) My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal?
(7.3) Help! My ferret is going bald!
(7.4) Is he really just asleep?
(7.5) What does such-and-such a noise mean?
(7.6) What games do ferrets like to play?
(7.7) What else should I probably not worry about?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
6. *** Basic ferret care and training ***
------------------------------
Subject: (6.1) How can I best ferretproof my home?
Ferretproofing a home basically involves blocking off all the holes
around your baseboards, removing anything spongy from reach, moving
fragile items out of the way, and making sure your closets and
cabinets close securely. Ferrets love to worm their way into any
little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some
adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under a
refrigerator or other appliance, into a wall, or outside. Crawl
around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor, especially in
the kitchen and laundry area. Even holes inside cabinets (which are
particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather
sloppy) should be blocked, just in case. Also watch out for heaters
or furnace ducts. You can block openings with wood or wire mesh, and
at least one Ferret Mailing List recipient had good luck with aluminum
foil, since most ferrets don't like to chew it.
Many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers. They can get onto a sofa,
into a trash can, onto the third shelf of a set of bookcases, into a
bathtub, into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker, or over the
gate you thought would keep them in the spare room (a smooth two-foot
barrier will probably do the job). They can also open cabinets, unzip
backpacks, and climb into some drawers from underneath.
Apart from obvious dangers such as electrical cords (which ferrets
don't, generally, like to chew) and bottles of household cleaners and
chemicals (which they do like to drink), be particularly careful with
sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside
a cushion or mattress), styrofoam, insulation, rubber door stoppers,
and anything else spongy or springy. Ferrets love to chew on that
kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages
[10.2]. Some ferrets also like to eat paper or cloth; very small
pieces should pass through without harm, but larger ones might -- you
guessed it -- cause a blockage.
For some reason, many ferrets like to eat soap [7.7], so you'll have
to keep that out of their reach. Also be aware that ferrets like to
dig in and possibly chew on houseplants, and some common ones are
quite poisonous. Plants can be protected from digging (but not
chewing) by putting large rocks or metal mesh over the tops of their
pots. If your ferret claws at the carpet, try putting down a piece of
plastic carpet protector. Chicken wire, ouch-proofed and nailed to
the floor using U-nails, can work well too.
Finally, once your home is done, bear in mind that your couch cushions
and throw rugs may be hiding napping ferrets. Look before you sit!
------------------------------
Subject: (6.2) What should I feed my ferret?
Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams,
Science Diet, or ProPlan. High-quality food may cost a bit more, but
your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier. We've found that
an 8-pound bag of dry food (usually $10-$15) lasts two ferrets a
couple of months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food
is not very great.
The key ingredient is protein, specifically animal protein, since
ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough
sustenance from vegetable proteins. Look for chicken or poultry, not
fish. The food needs to have at least 32% protein, and animal protein
should be listed first in the ingredients.
Because of this protein requirement, ferrets up to three or four years
old should get kitten or "growth" foods. Older ferrets can have
kidney problems from too much protein, though, so they should be
switched to the cat versions.
Unless your ferret is overweight, you can just keep her bowl full and
let her eat as much as she wants.
Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally
contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it
isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth
decay. However, very young kits and those recovering from illness or
surgery may need their food moistened with water for a week or two.
Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food
left dry, so dump out leftovers every day.
Several kinds of food meant specifically for ferrets also exist.
Ferrets do just fine on cat food, though, and in my experience they
like it better than ferret food. If you decide to use a ferret food,
check its label just as carefully as you would for cat food: just
because it says it's formulated for ferrets doesn't mean it really is.
Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and
cats) need. Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine,
which is found naturally in poultry; many cat and ferret foods
supplement it as well.
Some people like to give their ferrets a daily portion of Ferret Soup
[11.1] in addition to their regular dry food, to add variety and
nutrients, but it's not necessary.
Every so often, a discussion starts up about ethoxyquin, which is used
in many pet foods to preserve the unsaturated fats. In short, it's
very unlikely that there's any problem. The amount of ethoxyquin used
in cat food is far below the maximum concentration allowed by the FDA.
No adverse effects have been shown in any studies, including some done
by researchers not affiliated with any pet food company. In fact,
ethoxyquin has been shown to have an anticancer effect in cats. Foods
which don't contain ethoxyquin use high levels of vitamin E instead,
at greatly increased cost and generally reduced shelf life.
Laura L'Heureux Kupkee, a veterinary student, says:
The original reports about ethoxyquin were started by one single
dog breeder whose bitch lost pups. They did not know why, so they
thought they'd send a [food] sample to a chemist friend. The
friend analyzed it, and said it contained ethoxyquin, a component
in car-tire manufacturing [but then, so are a lot of things,
including many compounds remarkably similar to Petromalt and
probably water]. The breeder was shocked and immediately blamed
the ethoxyquin, the newspapers grabbed it, and now here we are.
There was never any mention of the fact that the bitch in question
may also have had some autoimmune problems. Nor was there *any*
proof that the chemical caused the abortion of the pups.
In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one
brand, is probably a good idea. Ferrets are known to be finicky
eaters, and if the brand you've been using changes or is suddenly
unavailable, you may run into problems if it's all your pets will
recognize as edible. To switch from brand A to brand B, start mixing
them before you run out of A. Add B a little at a time until they're
getting half each, then phase out A. (Also see information on
supplements [6.3], as well as fruits, vegetables, and treats [6.4].)
------------------------------
Subject: (6.3) Should I give my ferret any supplements?
Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements. They are
also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves
them. They're very similar and can be used interchangeably, although
their exact composition is a bit different. Both of these contain
vitamin A, which can be very harmful or even fatal in excess, though
it probably takes a whole lot more than you'd ever give your ferret.
However, like hairball remedies, too much Ferretone or Linatone can
give your ferrets loose stools. No more than a few drops to one pump
a day is recommended, and it's not thought to be necessary to give
them any at all if you're using a good food.
Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat
hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis.
This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that
they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from
fur swallowed during grooming. Even better, most ferrets seem to
think of this as a wonderful treat, too. As with all treats and
supplements, give them only in moderation; you can estimate how much
by taking the recommended cat dosage and adjusting for a ferret's
smaller weight.
------------------------------
Subject: (6.4) What are good treats?
Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables. Although they're
not necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a
high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt. Just be
sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat
his regular food to get the required protein. Too much of nearly
anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats.
Some popular suggestions: a slice of banana (mashed, so it's more
digestible), raisins, bits of pear, peppermint (small licks),
freeze-dried liver (sold as cat treats), Pounce cat treats, puffed
rice cakes, green beans, wheat crackers, Ferretone, Petromalt [6.3]...
Try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small pieces. You
never know what yours will consider a fabulous treat. I've heard of
ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to blueberries.
Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be
allowed to have much. This is especially true for young kits, since
the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily
cause them to become dehydrated. I'm told that goat's milk, available
in some pet stores, is okay, but I haven't seen any verification of
this. Likewise, I've heard that soy milk is good for them and
generally liked, but I ahevn't seen that verified either.
Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins,
bananas, prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it.
Sugary treats aren't good for them either, since they can cause to
dental problems and may also contribute to the development of
diabetes.
Be very careful with chocolate. Most ferrets like it, but the
xanthines found in it are strong stimulants and can be dangerous to
them. It's not recommended as a treat.
------------------------------
Subject: (6.5) How do I train my pet not to nip?
Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip. A
ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite,
but ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know
how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you. A
playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his
teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you
need to discipline him. Just remember, ferrets aren't malicious, they
just need to learn what behavior is acceptable.
Positive reinforcement (giving treats [6.4]) generally works better
than punishment. Similarly, don't set the ferret down when he
struggles and nips -- you'll be teaching him that that's the way to
get what he wants.
Flicking the ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty
popular form of discipline; but if it doesn't work, you'll end up
doing it too often, which will make your ferret associate you with bad
things rather than good ones. There are also several alternatives:
If the ferret is biting too hard in play, try using a signal he
already understands: a high-pitched "Yip!" (or "Hey!" or whatever),
like the noise one kit makes when another is playing too roughly.
"Freezing," which kits also do, can help, too. He should learn
pretty quickly how far he can go.
Confining the misbehaving ferret to a cage [5.2] and ignoring him
for a few minutes can be effective, especially if there's another
ferret wandering around conspicuously having fun.
You can cover your hands with Bitter Apple, either the spray or the
paste, so nipping tastes bad.
Those ferrets who go limp when scruffed generally hate it. You
might also shake the ferret by the scruff, or drag him along the
floor while you hiss. Both these mimic the way mother ferrets
reprimand their kits. Obviously, don't be so rough that you hurt
him. You can also cover his face with your hand, which he probably
won't like.
------------------------------
Subject: (6.6) I'm having problems litter-training. What do I do?
Start your ferret out in a small area, perhaps his cage [5.2], and
expand his space gradually as he becomes better trained. Keep a
little dirty litter in his pan at first, to mark it as a bathroom and
to deter him from digging in it. Don't let it get too dirty, though;
some ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans. Whenever you
notice your ferret backing into a pan, give him a little treat [6.4]
and lots of praise as he comes out. Even if he didn't actually use
it, it'll still reinforce the idea.
Ferrets generally use their pans within fifteen minutes of waking up,
so don't pick yours up to play until he at least sniffs the pan to
show he's thought about it. When he's out running around for
playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in his litter pan every
half hour or so, or whenever you see him "pick up a magazine and start
to back into a corner" (as one FML subscriber put it). Positive
reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more effective than
any punishment, but if you need one, use cage time, and don't let him
out until he backs into the pan (even if he's just faking).
If your ferret's favorite corner isn't yours, you have a few choices.
could put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets
have short legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several
pans around your home anyway. Otherwise, you can try putting a
crumpled towel in the corner, making it look more like a potential
napping spot than a latrine. Finally, putting a food dish in the
well-cleaned corner, perhaps with a crumpled towel around it, might do
the trick.
"Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or another
bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it
dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret
bathrooms but also as a general deterrent. For the same reason, you
probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the
same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere.
Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there
is individual variation. Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their
pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident. Even
well-trained ferrets tend to lose track of their litter pans when
they're particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new
house or room. In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate,
though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do
considerably better. At least ferrets are small, so their accidents
are pretty easy to clean up.
Finally, if your ferret seems to have completely forgotten all about
litter pans, you might need to retrain him by confining him to a
smaller area or even a cage for a week or so and gradually expanding
his space as he catches on again.
------------------------------
Subject: (6.7) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?
Most people like to bathe their ferrets pretty often, since it can
help keep the odor down and they don't seem to mind it. Frequent
bathing can cause dry skin, though, especially in winter, so be
careful. Once every week or two should be okay, but switch to less
often if you have problems. Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit,
swimming around in the tub and diving for the drain plug.
The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to
check her nails and trim them if necessary.
Jim Lapeyre describes the recommended procedure like this:
Thus saith the Wise:
"When Haz-Abuminal saw that clipping the claws of the domestic
ferret was grievous, he pondered day and night for a year and a
day. After the year and the day had passed, he rose, and, taking
the ferret in his lap, dropped three drops of Linatone upon the
belly [of the ferret], which, perceiving that its navel had
Linatone, turned to lick. Thus distracted, the ferret heeded not
that the claws were being trimmed, and there was much rejoicing.
And when the claws were all neatly trimmed, the people were amazed
and astonished, saying, Who is this who, alone among mankind, has
tricked a ferret?"
If you have trouble even with this method, and you have a helper, have
the helper hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone
on one of his fingers. Scruffing a ferret will generally make her
calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should
keep her distracted.
Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it. Place the cut
parallel to where the floor will be when the ferret stands, to prevent
the tip from breaking later. Be careful not to nick the line or the
toe, since in either case it'll bleed a lot and your ferret will
decide nail clipping is not a good thing. Kwik-Stop or some other
styptic powder is good to have around in case this happens, to stop
the bleeding quickly.
Next you should check your pet's ears. They shouldn't need cleaning
more than once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen
a cotton swab with sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or an
alcohol-based ear cleaner (only if dry skin is not a problem) and
gently clean them. Peroxide, water, and ointments are not
recommended, because wet ears are much more prone to infections.
Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than poking it
into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear. Yellowish or brownish-red
ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet
probably has ear mites, which should be taken care of [9.6].
There's also a product made for cleaning cats' ears, which you just
squirt in and they shake out. Your vet should be able to tell you
about it.
Now fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with lukewarm water. It should
feel comfortable on your wrist. If you want to let your pet play in
the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide
some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of
swimming.
Finally, bathe the ferret. Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears
baby shampoo works fine too. Wet the ferret completely, either in one
half of a double sink or in a tub. Lather her from head to tail;
don't worry about her eyes if you're using a no-tears shampoo. Our
ferrets both start to struggle at this point, which seems to be
because they don't like hanging in midair while being washed. We let
them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being
washed. Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running water.
Older, sick, or weak ferrets can be gently cleaned using baby oil,
which can also help get gooey things out of fur.
Drying a dripping ferret can be a lot of fun or a real hassle,
depending what kind of mood you're in. I find it's easiest to keep
the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in
one hand while drying her with the other. Wearing a terry bathrobe is
helpful here too. You could also put your ferret on the floor in a
towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a
rowdy game of tousle and try to run away. Once you've got her mostly
dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry towel to roll in and she'll
finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret seems
to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that walls, cage
floors, milk cartons, and everything except the towel must be
remarkably water-absorbent. You can also try using a hair dryer on
its coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that.
Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing
and bouncing from side to side and rolling against everything in
sight. Mainly they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of
general excitement from the bath and drying process too.
------------------------------
Subject: (6.8) Can I teach my ferret tricks? How?
Yes, ferrets are plenty smart enough to learn to sit up, turn around,
roll over, stay on your shoulders or in a hood, and perhaps even walk
on a leash. To train your ferret to stay on your shoulders, for
instance, stand over a pile or basket of crumpled newspaper, and when
she falls into it, shout, "No!" The combination of the fall, the
noise, and your shout should persuade her to pay more attention to
staying on. Give her a treat when she does, and she should learn
quickly.
The trick to all of these is getting your pet's attention while you
teach her. Don't try teaching tricks, or even trying to get a ferret
to perform, in an unexplored area -- it's nearly futile.
Unlike dogs, ferrets generally won't do a trick for the sheer joy of
it, or simply to please you. Usually there must be some kind of
reward expected [6.4], though that could be anything from a lick of
Ferretone to a bite of apple to a good head-scratching.
------------------------------
Subject: (6.9) Do ferrets travel well?
In general, yes.
Around town
Ferrets love going places. You can fix up a shoulder bag with a
litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry them
with you wherever they're welcome. Be careful not to let them get
too hot [9.4] or cold, though.
Automobile travel
Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although being closed up in
a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, if they scratch to get
out. Keeping them loose in the car is not recommended, since they
could get under the driver's feet or through some undetected hole
into the engine compartment or onto the road. You can use a water
bottle in a car, but fasten a deep dish or cup underneath it, since
it will drip, and put down a towel to soak up the inevitable spills.
Airplane travel
Only a few airlines allow ferrets on board their planes, in
under-seat cat carriers, for an additional charge. (America West
does. Any others?) Sending your ferret in the cargo area is not
generally recommended, largely due to problems people have had with
temperature, pressure and general handling of pets who travel this
way. Several people have been able to sneak their ferrets aboard
aircraft by taking them through the security checks hidden in bulky
coats, then transferring them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I
have no experience with that. Tranquilizing the ferret isn't
recommended -- it'll disorient him, and ferrets sleep a lot anyway.
Hotels
Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to
call ahead and make sure. Also leave a note to reassure the maids.
Canada/U.S. border crossings
According to a brochure I received from Canadian Customs, pet
ferrets accompanying their owners from the U.S. into Canada don't
need any special health certificates or import licenses. Bringing
them back into the U.S. may be more difficult, though all I needed
was a rabies certificate and proof that the ferrets came from the
U.S. in the first place (a NY state license, in my case; if you
don't have one, register your pets with U.S. Customs before you
enter Canada). I don't know much about Canadian residents bringing
ferrets into the U.S. or taking them back home.
Legal issues
You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any areas
you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that ferrets
are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets have
had, just in case.
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7. *** Things ferrets say and do ***
------------------------------
Subject: (7.1) How do I know if my ferret likes something?
If he stays still for your petting, plays with his toys, grabs the
treat from you, or "chuckles" while playing, he likes it.
------------------------------
Subject: (7.2) My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal?
Generally, yes. Ferrets normally tremble for two reasons. First,
they often shiver right after waking up, in order to raise their body
temperatures. Second, they shake or quiver when excited or
frightened. For a young kit, this could well be all the time, since
everything is new and interesting. For older ferrets, a bath or even
a good scolding could prompt trembling.
If your ferret's trembling persists with no apparent cause, first make
sure there's no cold draft around. (Ferrets can live fine outdoors,
with blankets and shade, but indoor lighting can cause their winter
coats not to come in until long after it's gotten cold enough outside
to need one.) If that's not the problem, check with a vet.
------------------------------
Subject: (7.3) Help! My ferret is going bald!
Ferrets shed their coats twice a year, in the fall and spring. The
times for these changes vary somewhat for ferrets kept in indoor
lighting conditions. Fur will come out by the handful, all over the
ferret, and his coat may look a bit sparse before the new one grows
in.
Otherwise, baldness can be caused by several things. Poor nutrition,
a severe mite infection, and dry skin are possibilities. A nearly
bald tail can be caused by the shedding cycle or by stress, and is not
uncommon in intact animals during breeding season.
Finally, baldness is also the most noticeable symptom of adrenal lesions
in ferrets [10.2]. Any unexplained hair loss should be checked out
quickly. If it begins on the tail and progresses forward, eventually
leaving hair only on the head and extremities, that's almost certainly
the problem. See a vet immediately.
Most common blood tests, even the ones which test specifically for the
presence of estrogen in the blood, will not detect an adrenal problem
in ferrets. There is a new estradiol test which works reasonably
well; see the Ferret Adrenal Disease FAQ [1.1] for more information.
------------------------------
Subject: (7.4) Is he really just asleep?
In general, ferrets sleep quite a bit, even adults. A two- to four-
hour playtime followed by a several-hour nap is typical. Ferrets
sometimes appear to be sleeping with their eyes partly open, and they
sleep very heavily, often not waking even when picked up. You can
take advantage of this and try to cut their nails while they're
asleep. It means you have to be especially careful where you walk and
sit, though.
------------------------------
Subject: (7.5) What does such-and-such a noise mean?
Clucking, "dooking," or chuckling
Indicates happiness or excitement. Often uttered while playing or
exploring a new area.
Occasional sneezes
If you crawled under bookcases and couches, you'd sneeze too. Also,
ferrets have a pair of scent glands near their chins, and sneezing
can be a way of forcing some of the scent out so it can be rubbed on
something.
Whimpering/whining
Kits, especially, do this as a general excitement noise. It can
also be uttered by the loser in a wrestling match.
Hissing
Frustration or anger. Ferrets often hiss while they're fighting,
even if it's just in play.
Screeching/loud chittering
Extreme fright or pain. This is your cue that it's time to go
rescue your pet from whatever it's gotten itself into. It can also
be a sign of anger.
------------------------------
Subject: (7.6) What games do ferrets like to play?
Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and
so forth, with each other or with you. Ours love to bounce around on
our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack
each other through the throw rugs.
If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your
pants leg, he wants to play. An appropriate response would be to get
down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a
washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance.
Ferrets like to jump and climb. They're good at finding complicated
ways up to desks or closet shelves, but not very good at judging
heights. Be careful about how high your pet can get, since he may try
to jump down.
For some reason, many ferrets wag their tails quickly when they have
their front ends in a tube or under a rug and they see something
interesting (a toy, a sock, another ferret) at the other end.
Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most
inaccessible location possible. Protect your keys and wallet.
A happy ferret will "dance," flinging himself about on all fours with
an arched back. Clucking is common too. Dancing or just careening
into walls or bookcases is not at all uncommon, but ferrets seem to
just bounce off of such obstacles. Unless they actually injure
themselves, don't worry about them; they're having fun.
------------------------------
Subject: (7.7) What else should I probably not worry about?
Scratching
Ferrets just seem to be itchy little critters. If you don't see any
fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood), it's probably not fleas,
so as long as the skin isn't irritated or balding don't worry about
it. If you see little white flakes, it may be dry skin.
Sniffing/wiping/licking the rear
This is a normal thing to do, especially after a bath. It helps
spread the ferret's scent around.
Licking urine
It's not uncommon for a ferret to take a few laps of urine, its
own or another ferret's. Nobody's really sure why they do it, but
it won't hurt them.
Hiccups
Hiccups are not uncommon, especialy in young kits, who sometimes
seem alarmed by them. A comforting scritch, a drink of water, or a
small treat [6.4] can help.
Tail puffing
A ferret's tail will bottle-brush when he's excited or upset.
He's not necessarily frightened. He'd have to be really
worked up for the hair on the rest of his body to stand up, though.
Licking soap
For some reason, many ferrets love to eat soap, stealing it from
the bathroom or even licking the tub. A little bit of soap won't
hurt your ferret, though it may give her diarrhea. Don't give it to
her as a treat, of course, and try to keep it out of her reach, but
it's nothing to panic about unless she manages to eat a lot.
Summer weight loss, in males
Normally, weight loss is something to be concerned about, but
many males lose a fair bit of weight, even as much as 40% of their
bulk, in the summer and gain it back in the fall. It's mainly
preparation for breeding, but it's common in neutered males, too.
If your ferret seems otherwise healthy and happy, don't worry.
== End of Part III ==
--
- Pam Greene
Ferret Central<http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/central.html>
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