Can I replace a pad myself?
skye...@my-deja.com
the bottom of sax. Can I put it back on or should I have it
professionally repaired. And if I can fix it myself, how do I do it?
Thanks.
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Wolf Kodera
replacement pad ( www.vintedge.de ).
Wolf
<skye...@my-deja.com> schrieb in im Newsbeitrag:
846nho$dnn$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Robert L. Carroll
> One of my Pads fell off my saxophone. It is one of the larger ones on
> the bottom of sax. Can I put it back on or should I have it
> professionally repaired. And if I can fix it myself, how do I do it?
> Thanks.
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.
You can do it yourself, but I would recommend that you take it to a
professional repairman instead. The cost should not be too much for a
single pad, and will save you a lot of grief.
If you just want to learn how to replace pads, get a repair book at the
library. The process involves heating the cup with a flame to melt glue
to float the pad in. The pad then must be seated properly on the cup
while the glue is still hot and held until the glue cools. (There are
other ways to replace a pad, and many refinements.) Naturally, there is
a learning curve which means you'll have some failures.
Vintagesax
Some will tell you that anyone can replace a pad. I know I've read comments
made by a few on the Newsgroups who think that repadding their horns is a
cinch. I believe it makes sense to let a good repair tech take care of your
pad problems.
If you do decide to take care of your own pads you might want to have a few
tools and a little experience. After all, large pads can have large leaks.
You'll need a leak light, a good quality pad that is similar to the thickness
of your other pads, a similar resonator and shellac. Don't forget a good
screwdriver, spring hook and pliers. To melt the shellac you'll need a torch
or alchohol lamp. You should disassemble the key first and make sure that new
cork or felt is not needed. If it is, sheet cork in various thicknesses, felt,
contact cement and a razor blad may be needed. Its a good idea to make sure
that the rod is straight that goes through the key easily after you've
disassembled the key. A bench motor comes in handy for this. If the key has
any motion on the rod, you may need to lengthen the key tube with a wiggle rod
or swedge it. You'll need special swedging pliers for this.
After you've acquired all these tools- its a good idea to have at least 5 years
experience as a woodwind repair tech under your belt.
Gayle Fredenburgh
http://www.vintagesax.com
>Subject: Can I replace a pad myself?
>From: skye...@my-deja.com
>Date: Sun, 26 December 1999 10:52 PM EST
>Message-id: <846nho$dnn$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>
>
>One of my Pads fell off my saxophone. It is one of the larger ones on
>the bottom of sax. Can I put it back on or should I have it
>professionally repaired. And if I can fix it myself, how do I do it?
>Thanks.
>
>
>Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
>Before you buy.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Gayle Fredenburgh
Vinta...@aol.com
Bob & Liz Fowler
getting one pad to seat isn't a big deal, but getting the reveal, pad
height, and regulation correct takes practice. Multiply that by the 20+
other pads involved, plus getting it to all work together correctly... well,
that's a bigger job than a "do-it-yourselfer" should try. There isn't a
cheap and easy solution because, as Gayle pointed out, there are a number of
special (read that as expensive) tools required. A few examples: a good
bench motor runs over $300, good swedging pliers are about $90, you'll need
an assortment of good screwdrivers (preferably swivel top), and a good
controllable heat source. Add to this, the expense of having a good
selection of pads in all sizes, sheet cork in various thickness',
resonators, felt... the list goes on and the cost goes up. Sure, you can
buy pads in "sets", but if you burn a pad (and everyone's bound to burn a
few), you're screwed.
There are some good books on the subject, as well as some excellent videos,
but there is no substitute for learning from a pro. I learned repair under
the tutelage of my wife who is a school trained tech with 23+ years
experience as a woodwind specialist. As any good tech will confirm, you
never stop learning. Just when you think you've seen it all, some goofy
horn shows up in the shop that makes you sit back and REALLY think! (Phil,
your alto was one of them!)
--
őżó
Bob Fowler
sax...@superlink.net
http://mars.superlink.net/saxman
Vintagesax <vinta...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:19991227194103...@ng-ch1.aol.com...
MidiOpera Co.
> I'm 100% with Gayle on this. Repadding a sax is NOT a simple process. Sure
> getting one pad to seat isn't a big deal,
But that's all our poster asked - putting 1 (read 'em ONE) pad
back on his horn.
>but getting the reveal, pad
> height, and regulation correct takes practice.
Which one can not get when one says - I can't do that.
>there are a number of
> special (read that as expensive) tools required. A few examples: a good
> bench motor runs over $300, good swedging pliers are about $90,
You don't need a bench motor to replace pads. Swedging is
something for skilled techs - BIG AGREE here.
you'll need
> an assortment of good screwdrivers (preferably swivel top), and a good
> controllable heat source.
Jewelers screwdiver set is $5 at the flea market and you can
use a $15 B&D heat gun or a $40 butane torch. A crochet hook is great
for springs, a few single edge razors or an exacto knife for trimming
corks. What else for a beginner doing 1 pad???
Add to this, the expense of having a good
> selection of pads in all sizes, sheet cork in various thickness',
> resonators, felt... the list goes on and the cost goes up.
All true but nothing that should discourage anyone from
learning to maintain their own instrument(s). Starting with a few pads
IS the way to start. Having a spare sax is an obvious advantage.
Just do it!
--
Robert Steinberg
MidiOpera Co.
http://www.evcom.net/~midiopra/
http://www.tcol.net/~midiopra/
Bob & Liz Fowler
news:199912280...@mia-tcr7-88.dyn.evcom.net...
> Bob & Liz Fowler <sax...@superlink.net> wrote:
>
> > I'm 100% with Gayle on this. Repadding a sax is NOT a simple process.
Sure
> > getting one pad to seat isn't a big deal,
>
> But that's all our poster asked - putting 1 (read 'em ONE) pad
> back on his horn.
Yes, that's true... but I was responding to, and agreeing with, Gayle's post
about repadding a WHOLE horn. gayle or I probably should have changed the
subject line to reflect this. Sorry about the confusion.
> >but getting the reveal, pad
> > height, and regulation correct takes practice.
>
> Which one can not get when one says - I can't do that.
Very true... But I for one, do not advocate someone working on their "main"
horn. There are plenty of "junkers" out there for little money that are
great for practice/learning.
> >there are a number of
> > special (read that as expensive) tools required. A few examples: a good
> > bench motor runs over $300, good swedging pliers are about $90,
>
> You don't need a bench motor to replace pads. Swedging is
> something for skilled techs - BIG AGREE here.
Once again, we were talking about an overhaul, not a single pad replacement.
However, bent rods are often found when one takes a key off to replace a pad
or cork. Imagine trying to straighten a lower stack rod on a tenor without a
motor! If you're going to replace a pad and the key fit is sloppy, you're
only doing half the job.
> you'll need
> > an assortment of good screwdrivers (preferably swivel top), and a good
> > controllable heat source.
>
> Jewelers screwdiver set is $5 at the flea market and you can
> use a $15 B&D heat gun or a $40 butane torch. A crochet hook is great
> for springs, a few single edge razors or an exacto knife for trimming
> corks. What else for a beginner doing 1 pad???
OK, you CAN get screwdrivers for $5.00, but they don't have long enough
blades to get around a lot of sax keywork easily. I was thinking of a set
more like the ones from Ferrees. A 6, 8, or 10 inch long blade makes life a
lot easier. A thin, 1.5" wide puty knife makes a good pad slick. I
wouldn't suggest that a beginner use a $15.00 heat gun. The chance of
burning the lacquer or adjacent pads is far too great for someone with
little or no experience. An alcohol lamp or the $40.00 butane torch is a
much safer bet.
> Add to this, the expense of having a good
> > selection of pads in all sizes, sheet cork in various thickness',
> > resonators, felt... the list goes on and the cost goes up.
>
> All true but nothing that should discourage anyone from
> learning to maintain their own instrument(s). Starting with a few pads
> IS the way to start. Having a spare sax is an obvious advantage.
Which is why I would hope that anyone wanting to learn would get a junker to
start with and NOT try to learn on their main axe.
> Just do it!
>
> --
> Robert Steinberg
> MidiOpera Co.
> http://www.evcom.net/~midiopra/
> http://www.tcol.net/~midiopra/
--
Mitch
Bob & Liz Fowler wrote:
>
> However, bent rods are often found when one takes a key off to replace > a pad or cork. Imagine trying to straighten a lower stack rod on a > tenor without a motor!
Just curious.. How is a motor used to straighten a bent rod? I've rolled
rods (not sax stuff, copiers, typewriters (former life)) on glass,
listened, and tweaked till the sound told me it's straight.
Mitch
Richard Bush
somewhere...sometime. What Gayle and Bob have stated is close to the reality of
what might be found when pulling even ONE key off of a saxophone. Having the
correct tools, even the most basic setup is highly recommended. A good, big,
swivel top screw driver, a pair of smooth jawed pliers, a spring hooker, a pad
slick, an alcohol lamp, a leak light, and of course, the required pads, sheet
cork, appropriate adhesives and maybe even a good book or video. The initial
outlay will be quite expensive, but could be considered an investment for future
projects. If saving money is the prime motivation, I would not recommend going
this route. If learning and becoming more knowledgeable, and maybe even enjoying
the experience is closer to the real reason, I too, would say go for it. BUT
Some folks don't qualify. This point, I'm sure, is pretty much a given, but
there are those in this world who have little or know mechanical intelligence.
For them, spreading butter on a piece of toast with a kitchen knife is about
their limit for handling and working with tools. I would hope that anyone
considering going this route has a realistic appraisal of their mechanical
aptitude. They should also have a good working knowledge of the instrument on
the operating table. And, as you are learning, know your limitations and don't
be afraid to ask for help when you run into trouble, either something beyond
your skill level, something that requires tools beyond your budget, or when
you've really messed things up or buggered stuff. That too, is part of the
learning experience.
I can't remember when I didn't have a mechanical aptitude. I think some of my
earliest training came from building things with an expansive Erector Set handed
down to me by my dad. When I started repairing it was just simple things like
taking apart a saxophone and polishing the silver body. OUCH!!! Those needle
springs got me many times; sometimes impaling a finger from both
directions....Double OUCH!
I have to say, I've made lots of mistakes in the learning process. Isn't that
how we all learn? For this reason, I strongly suggest taking the advice of
others and playing around with a junker. Don't, for heaven sakes, work on other
peoples' instruments until you're really good and/or you can afford to replace
anything you're working on.
MidiOpera Co.
What Bob is calling an overhaul should be called a rebuild or as they
call it in boat building - a refit.......Don't try this at home kids.
Back to the original question of changing one or 2 pads. Assuming this
is a resaonably new horn that has been played a bit and put away wet on
occasion, most likely it would be the palm keys, the G# or the Eb that
have gone bad. Non-stack keys are easy to get to. Pads and supplies can
be had from Ferree's. Following Gayle's directions will get one started.
The newsgroup will (always) add information in case something goes
wrong.
It will be much more expensive, however, to do it yourself if one has no
intention of doing any more than just one pad on one horn.
RS