How to waterproof a marine band comb ?
Marcio
I'm interested in advice on what to put on the Marine Band comb so
that it does not absorb saliva. The Hering Vintage Harp has treated wood,
so I was wondering what I could do to make the marine Band just as nice.
I guess the product has to be safe enough, since it will be in a
person's mouth with constant breathing (varnishes may have toxic fumes ?)
I think I've read about beeswax, but I am not sure that is correct,
and how to do it, and if it would really stay & waterproof it.
Thanks,
marcio
Keith Adams
but I think spray polyurethane would work great.It would give you a nice
flat very durable surface for the reedplates to lay against.The only
drawback is giving it enough time to cure so that you didnt taste the
finish.
I dont know how long that would be.
Maybe 12 hours maybe a week.That kinda stuff dont bother me though.I like
sniffing glue and drinking acetone.
Just kidding there Marcio .
ben
Oil based polyurethane should be avoided. You can use water based
poly-urethane but I prefer beeswax or " schellack" (this is the german word
for it, sorry!)
Someone else mentioned Tung oil, but I haven't used this before.
On this site you can find more info (under harmonica technical
articles....comb sealants and.....)
Ben Bouman
Holland
http://www.angelfire.com/music/harmonica/index.html
compra-venta
could read german :(
http://www.harponline.de/w7_marine_band.html
cheers,
Javier.
MIDI to Harmonica Tab - http://www.harpingmidi.com
Keith Adams
it ever does.
Shellack is different from polyurethane.If you shouldnt use oil based then
you shouldnt use it at all because no water based finish is worth shit.Hey
Ben that got me to thinking.Shellack is oil based because you thin it with
denatured alcohol.It's usually used on fine furniture and unless you put on
a 4 or 5 coats has no durability.
ben
I put 4 coats on the comb ( each coat had to dry 4 days)... but the result
is very fine so far
I'm not sure if shellack is oil based, I'll check this.
Is the cheap harp I've sent you still woking??
Ben Bouman
ben
The pages can be seen in english ( as far as I know)
Ben Bouman
Marcio
news:10782662...@news-01.evisp.enertel.nl:
> Someone else mentioned Tung oil, but I haven't used this before.
I liked the non-toxic nature of the oil: "Pure Tung Oil is recommended for
kitchen tables, chopping blocks and boards, and similar uses. Its non-toxic
nature makes it particularly appropriate for children's toys and furniture.
It gives good protection to wood panelling and moulding."
http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html
I guess I will give that a try. Thanks !!!
marcio
Marcio
news:bY51c.2954$Zo6...@twister.socal.rr.com:
> [...] but I think spray polyurethane would work great.
I just saw this
http://www.angelfire.com/music/harmonica/sealants.html
"[...] urethanes (even oil based ones, although I would never recommend
them for use on harmonicas) should not pose any significant inhalation risk
to the user. [...]"
Which seems to confirm your advice, so I may try that.
Thanks !!
marcio
Robbie and Laura Reynolds
>
> You dont want to use tung oil Ben.The stuff takes forever to dry. Thats if
> it ever does.
> Shellack is different from polyurethane.If you shouldnt use oil based then
> you shouldnt use it at all because no water based finish is worth shit.
In water based polyurethane, water is used to suspend it so that you can
brush it and clean it up easily. Then it cures into a polymer and the
water evaporates.
Think of it like concrete. You mix it with water, but after it cures it
is waterproof. I don't know how good water based polyurethane is, but I
have heard that it is used with satisfactory results on model airplanes,
which have to be fuelproof.
Keith Adams
sho am sweet.Thanks man.You still coming to Big Bear to play Ben old chap?
Keith Adams
it for a dog house floor.Cement is whats used to cure concrete and unlike
water based polyurethane it'll cure regardless if its under water or not.You
can retard its curing process somewhat with calcium chloride but once it
starts kicking its gonna do what it wants.If you want a good finish on your
planes forget the water based stuff(its like wanting ice cream and getting
imitation ice milk) and the brush.By it in a spray can and you'll wreck the
plane before the finish and wont have to clean up anything.
Keith Adams
disappear
ben
Glad you like the "bending machine"...
At this moment our drummer is in the Big Bear area, visiting family.
They own the Ponderosa ranch....( you know.... Hoss, Little Joe
.............:-)) Bonanza).
I'm thinking of coming next year, unless our drummer can find enough gigs
for our band to come this year (september?)
Let me know when you need another bending machine in a different key.
Keith Adams
my way I'd like 5 of each then 5 more each for backups.Thats how well it
plays.I know you put alot of time into them
because it shows.Your time has to be worth quite a bit.How much do you sell
them for Ben?
Alan Deaton
There are 2 kinds of shellac, dry flake and pre-mixed.
The pre-mixed stuff has all sorts of extra junk in it and you should
stay away from it.
The dry flake is pure unadulterated shellac. You mix it with alcohol
yourself.
I don't think flake shellac that you mixed yourself would be
considered oil based. Generally, when you refer to finishes as "oil
based", that means they are high in volatile organic compounds
(VOC's). While shellac is normally thinned with alcohol, the alcohol
evaporates relatively quickly and completely. Once the alcohol has
evaporated, there are no VOC's. The FDA has approved Shellac for
human consumption (I think It's used as a coating on some drugs). So,
it's plenty safe for your harp comb. One caveat - shellac never
cures, it just dries. It remains alcohol soluble forever(yes, this
includes whiskey). You might need to remain a tea-totaller while
playing shellac sealed harps.
Tarvus
"Alan Deaton" <amde...@alliance.csc.com> wrote in message
news:3dd021f0.04030...@posting.google.com...
> > I'm not sure if shellack is oil based, I'll check this.
>
> There are 2 kinds of shellac, dry flake and pre-mixed.
>
> The pre-mixed stuff has all sorts of extra junk in it and you should
> stay away from it.
Shellac is actually made from the dried shells of the female lac beetle,
Laccifer Laca, hence the name "shellac". The shells are dissolved in
alcohol.
For far more than the average person could possibly ever want to know about
shellac, click here!:
http://tinyurl.com/ytqga
Best regards,
Tar
(who has taken a good shellacing a time or two in his life!)