[HAM] Leslie 122 Treble Driver Mounting
John Dieken
--
[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
Hi Randy,
I am assuming that you have purchased the Ham/Suz 100 watt ferro cooled replacement treble driver. I have installed several of these in my Leslies. They are excellent replacements speakers. I think that you will be very satisfied with the sound.
In my installation, I had to drill three new holes in the plate and spindle assembly. There was a template provided with the driver.
You will need a 13/32 drill bit. It is best to use a drill press if you have access to one, but I was able to drill my holes with a hand held electric drill. After the holes were drilled, I installed new grommets, leaving the old ones in place in case I ever wanted to install another V-21 driver.
I also had to Loctite the threads on the driver to the adapter plate. I had a problem with vibration until I did this.
Good luck,
John Dieken
"Randy Yates" <ya...@ieee.org> wrote in message news:<3AEB8569...@ieee.org>...
> The treble driver Goff sent me has a hole pattern that does
> not match the hole pattern of the existing plate. This is the
> bushing plate that mounts to the adapter plate via three tapped
> holes. The three holes on the adapter plate have a different
> spacing than the three holes on the bushing plate. Am I correct
> in identifying this as a real problem (I.e., has anyone else
> had this problem with replacement drivers from Goff)? I'm a little
> unsure about myself since I've never done this before. If so,
> are there replacement drivers available with the right hole
> pattern, or will I have to drill and tap new holes?
>
> By the way, this is NOT the 6-screw/3-screw problem mentioned
> in the instructions that came with the new driver - this
> driver has only threw screws.
>
> This is a 1969 122.
> --
> % Randy Yates % "...the answer lies within your soul
> %% DIGITAL SOUND LABS % 'cause no one knows which side
> %%% Digital Audio Sig. Proc. % the coin will fall."
> %%%% <ya...@ieee.org> % 'Big Wheels', *Out of the Blue*, ELO
> http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~yatesc
> --
> Subscription Options/Unsubscribe/Archives: http://www.zeni.net/hf/
> Hammond-Leslie FAQ: http://theatreorgans.com/hammond/faq/
> HammondWiki: http://www.dairiki.org/HammondWiki/
> This mailing list is exported to the usenet group alt.music.hammond-organ.
>
>
>
>
--
--
Subscription Options/Unsubscribe/Archives: http://www.zeni.net/hf/
Hammond-Leslie FAQ: http://theatreorgans.com/hammond/faq/
HammondWiki: http://www.dairiki.org/HammondWiki/
This mailing list is exported to the usenet group alt.music.hammond-organ.
Gary
On Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:55:56 -0500, ham...@zeni.net wrote:
> I am assuming that you have purchased the Ham/Suz 100 watt ferro >cooled
replacement treble driver.
That is the driver to get, imo, but the one on Goff's Website is the 60
watt driver unless I missed the 100 elsewhere. He wants 149 bucks for it, I
think you can get a 100 watt for that.
http://www.goffprof.com/catalog/accessories/leslie/driver.html
That begs the question: who found the best price on the H/S *100* watt
ferro-cooled driver? I heard the prices really vary with dealer. To anyone
who might respond email me privately if you like as I may pick one up.
Gary
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
Randy Yates
>
> On Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:55:56 -0500, ham...@zeni.net wrote:
>
> > I am assuming that you have purchased the Ham/Suz 100 watt ferro >cooled
> replacement treble driver.
>
> That is the driver to get, imo, but the one on Goff's Website is the 60
> watt driver unless I missed the 100 elsewhere. He wants 149 bucks for it, I
> think you can get a 100 watt for that.
There is only one driver that I saw. It says on the back "100W Ferro-Fluid Driver
Custom Built for Leslie" and a number, "514-059468," and I paid $149 for it.
Anyone know why they wouldn't just drill and tap two sets of holes in the driver
plate instead of making us drill the spindle assembly? Seems like a pretty
glaring omission from a unit that is supposed to be a replacement part.
Thank you, Gary and John, for your responses.