Oil for the motor
Chris Dillon
motor.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Chris
Doug Irvine
Original Hammond oil is simply a "white oil" Doug, with Hammond 25 years
Keith Freeman
non-acidic. I chickened out and bought some Hammond oil! But I just noticed
an ad in a railway modelling magazine for a very light synthetic oil, I
wonder if that would be OK too.
-Keith
Barry Hoffman
Paul Zein
news:Xns937377AA5...@212.64.53.133:
> But I just noticed an ad in a railway modelling magazine for a very light
> synthetic oil, I wonder if that would be OK too.
>
> -Keith
cant member were i read it but some dude was sellin synth hammond oil dont
ask me who i forgot
Paul
Mike T.
This is _NOT_ directed at your post Keith.
Why, OH WHY would anyone even _try_ to use non-Hammond oil? It's cheap, very
easy to purchase and can be used with 100% confidence.
Sure, the posters that provided alternatives should be commended and their
recomendations are important..if you live in: a disputed zone of some type /
the alpha centauri star system / or an uncharted galaxy, Sure, then use what
ever you have available. But, if the TG fails, that brand x oil will haunt
you! You'll never really know if it messed up the instrument. Probably
didn't...but, will you know for SURE in five or ten years? Probably not.
Anyway, try to buy original Hammond oil. If you cannot get any - which is a
longshot - Singer oil is supposedly fine. Not sure about the model railway
stuff, but I'd also assume the high-tolerances of the motors would require a
light grade oil...makes sense.
Good luck with your organ!
Mike T.
Organfreak
This post is dead-on the mark. Hammond oil is cheap, and not that hard
to get. In a pinch, Singer sewing machine oil. But what Hammond Oil
IS, is turbine oil, very light. Some oils contain paraffin, not good
for your oiling threads. Stick with the gen-u-wine article, or the
common substitute that is known to be OK.
-Mr. Smarty Pants
Doug Irvine
Mike T. wrote:
>>>Nothing heavier than Singer sewing machine oil, and then sparingly.
One time a long time ago, I was called by one of my customers in a rural
area, and told that the organ had quit. It was a model L-112, which I
had sold them some years before. A tube of Hammond oil was stapeled to
the inside of the case, with the oiling instructions very clearly
indicated. I always recommended once a year, 5 drops per cup, 2 drops in
each of the motor cups. When I got to the farm and tried the organ, sure
enuf the generator was frozen solid. The owner, a farmer, told me that
he had oiled the organ with # 10 motor oil. Well, I took the organ back
to the store, removed the tone generator, and flushed it with
penetrating oil, until it would start and run. I had to do this 3 times
in order to flush all of the engine oil out of the felts, and when that
poor Hammond was finally running at the right speed, I returned it to
the owner, with a suitably large bill, of course, and told him not to
oil it for another year, and then only with the correct oil. Hammond oil
originally was a "white oil" and was also usable in Leslie speakers. The
old Hammond tone cabinets, wit the "wet" reverb units, took a different
kind of oil, but still had to be a very thin consistency. You would not
believe how many times a mover would tip the cabinet, and lose all the
oil! Anywho, a little ancient history, on the Hammond oil saga from old
Doug...
Paul Zein
> One time a long time ago, I was called by one of my customers in a rural
> area
nice post thanks sharing it!
Paul
Doug Irvine
You are most welcome....I gotta million of 'em after 25 years in the
Hammond organ business! Have had some very amusing things happen, given
all the organs I sold in that time. I owned a Hammond Organ Studio for
ten years, and sold thousands of organs, and people being people, some
dandies appeared! Cheers, old Doug
Claude Picotte
the same oil that they fill the oil cups in a B3 but not sure. But dont put
anything without being sure
regards from a hammond organ music lover at 52 Y.O.
"Chris Dillon" <cc...@cornell.edu> a écrit dans le message de
news:b96fbc$r17$1...@news01.cit.cornell.edu...
Larry
MORE!
Put six drops in when you YEARLY oil the generator......
Er, ah, you DO oil the generator, yearly, right?....(c;
Larry
Keyboard Service
Charleston, SC
since 1986
Larry
Extremely intelligent life must exist in the universe.
You can tell because they never tried to contact us.
Larry
SAE 30 motor oil (Texaco?) in her Hammond CV, WEEKLY, filling the drip
cups for 30 years. I broke her of that habit in 1992 when I pointed
out that we needed to replace the floor UNDER the CV and the carpet
because the oil had run out of the CV, soaked up the carpet and just
trashed the pressboard subflooring some idiot contractor installed to
save money. Good thing the organ was balanced between two oil-soaked
2X6 floor joists!
Do us a favor, ok? Buy the Hammond Generator Oil and use that, not
Singer. It IS non-acidic, too!
Motor oil had soaked up the GROUND under the elevated church flooring,
protecting it from the oil-soaked termites, too!
Larry
Larry
wrote:
>You are most welcome....I gotta million of 'em after 25 years in the
>Hammond organ business! Have had some very amusing things happen, given
>all the organs I sold in that time. I owned a Hammond Organ Studio for
>ten years, and sold thousands of organs, and people being people, some
>dandies appeared! Cheers, old Doug
>
I know Hammond dealers who didn't tell their customers for over 35
years you needed to oil Hammond Generators for fear the maintenance
might make them have second thoughts of buying
it....................dammit..........
Steve Marshall
"Larry" <nos...@home.com> wrote
> Six DROPS of Hammond Generator oil in each spring-loaded cap....NO
> MORE!
What spring loaded cap ? I don't see any of those in my Hammond .
Steve M
Doug Irvine
should go into the three covered, sorta funnels located on the top of
the tone wheel generator cover...Cheers, Doug on Vancouver Island BC
Larry
the L-102 the poster was asking about. It doesn't have the start
motor and Tesla sync run motor like the B-3. It's motor is a
capacitor run teletype motor with two oiling cups covered by a litte
spring loaded cap....6 drops in each.
Larry
Larry
wrote:
>Larry may be referring to the caps on the motor. As we all know, the oil
>should go into the three covered, sorta funnels located on the top of
>the tone wheel generator cover...Cheers, Doug on Vancouver Island BC
>
While we're on that subject, let me warn you all about oiling the B3
motor cup.
Yeah, I know the instructions on a CV-style system say to fill both
drip cups every 6 months, but DON'T YOU DO IT!
If oil ever gets out of that little cup on top of the main run motor
and runs down inside the vibrato scanner....YOU'LL BE SOORRRIIIEEE!
The vibrato scanner is an extremely high impedance device. When
generator oil even TOUCHES those damned fiber insulators that hold up
the multiple stator plates from the phase shifter.....IT SHORTS OUT
THE SIGNAL to the plates with oil soaked insulators. Oil runs down
the wall of the scanner box onto the insulators from the oiling
threads that feed it in there...and onto the bottom insulators. The
sound of the vibrato changes from its smooth sound to a PULSATING
on-off-on-off sound.....every time the rotor passes by the plates the
oil is leaking the signal to ground.
The only solution is to remove the vibrato scanner, completely
disassemble its stators and soak all the fiber washers in alcohol
until you can get the oil out or replace them.....not a petty job.
The pre-problem solution is quite simple....STOP FILLING THAT DAMNED
OIL CUP ON TOP OF THE DRIVE MOTOR! And, stop putting oil in the
little oil cup in a BV/CV/etc.
I've hundreds of Hammonds running great by only oiling the
motor/scanner cup until the SPONGE IS WET. In no case should the oil
in this cup be anywhere near the top of the sponge! If the sponge is
wet, the scanner and drive motor get plenty of oil WITHOUT oil leaking
down the inside wall of the scanner shorting out your scanner stator
plates...... Works great.....ONCE a year.
Now, be nice to your Leslies and take the motor drives apart and oil
up the oiling felts in all the 8 motor bearings....something way too
often just swept under the rug because it's no fun.....Don't get oil
on the rubber tire or the shaft from the low-speed motor.....
(You rich guys with new Leslies, I haven't found anything that will
save the cheap sleeve bearings in those electronic motor speed motors
no matter how much oil you pour into them. Run 'em until they croak
then order the ball bearing motors Suzuki shoulda put in the damned
things in the first place. The ball bearing motors will never need
oiling.)
Thanks, Suzuki, for all the motor replacement work! I need the
business!
Larry
Keyboard Service
Charleston, SC
Since 1986
Steve Marshall
"Larry" <nos...@home.com> wrote
> My news reader dropped the post, but I was explaining the oiling of
> the L-102 the poster was asking about. It doesn't have the start
> motor and Tesla sync run motor like the B-3. It's motor is a
> capacitor run teletype motor with two oiling cups covered by a litte
> spring loaded cap....6 drops in each.
I've got a L100 and I'm not sure what you are talking about. I've been in
and out of the thing several times repairing various bits but this doesn't
sound like anything in my organ.
Can't someone post a picture with an arrow on it somewhere ? I know what
spring capped oiling cups look like but maybe these are different or hidden
or something - I can't see them !
Steve M
Larry
cylinder motor.....or a grey square box?
The motor I'm referring to on the L-102 is an open (has cooling holes)
green cylinder. Next to the green motor is a metal run capacitor with
a cap on top of it to cover the terminals with 115VAC on them for
safety.
The motor is exactly the kind of motor used in old teletype machines.
On each end there is a metal tube leading from the top of the motor
down into the motor bearings. The oil caps are on a little funnel on
top of these tubes.
The scanner is located on the OTHER end of the L-102 generator, down
where a B-3 starting phono motor would be located. The green motor
drives the generator through a spring so it'll work if there is a
little misalignment of the motor shaft.
Larry
Doug Irvine
Larry wrote:
> On Sat, 14 Jun 2003 00:45:58 GMT, Doug Irvine <dougan...@shaw.ca>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Yeah, I know the instructions on a CV-style system say to fill both
> drip cups every 6 months, but DON'T YOU DO IT!
>
> If oil ever gets out of that little cup on top of the main run motor
> and runs down inside the vibrato scanner....YOU'LL BE SOORRRIIIEEE!
>
AND HOW! Man, I remember all the times I had scanners apart, soaking
those fibre washers in carbon tetrachloride(while I could still get it)
and then letting them dry out, before re assembling...that, and re
greasing the key contacts with that special Hammond conductive grease,
are two jobs I do NOT miss doing on a Hammond! Larry, could you email me
privately, please. Cheers, old Doug in BC
Steve Marshall
"Larry" <nos...@home.com> wrote
> Is your drive motor on the treble end of your organ a round green
> cylinder motor.....or a grey square box?
It's the green one.
> The motor is exactly the kind of motor used in old teletype machines.
> On each end there is a metal tube leading from the top of the motor
> down into the motor bearings. The oil caps are on a little funnel on
> top of these tubes.
Hmmm, I'll have to look again. I don't recall something like that.
>
> The scanner is located on the OTHER end of the L-102 generator, down
> where a B-3 starting phono motor would be located. The green motor
> drives the generator through a spring so it'll work if there is a
> little misalignment of the motor shaft.
Quite clever that !
Steve M
Larry
<s...@atmosBlockA.plus.com> wrote:
>>
>> The scanner is located on the OTHER end of the L-102 generator, down
>> where a B-3 starting phono motor would be located. The green motor
>> drives the generator through a spring so it'll work if there is a
>> little misalignment of the motor shaft.
>
>Quite clever that !
>
>Steve M
>
Naw....not really. The spring just delays the inevitable bearing wear
out if it's misaligned.....(c;
We DO try to make them run until the end of the payment book and
warranty period, you know.....